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My 95 Miata has been making a funny whirring/whistling sound between 1000 and 1500 rpm regardless of load. I haven't been able to figure it out, but so far it seems like it's been benign. Any ideas?
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Feb 4, 2009 09:14
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GoblinBomb posted:Secondly, while tracing the vacuum hose for the useless boost gauge, I found another vacuum hose connected to it near where it goes through the firewall. The second hose goes from the footwell area to behind the dash where I can't see it. Any ideas what it could be going to? I think you've answered your own question here. the Megasquirt has a MAP sensor inside the box so you run a vacuum line all the way to the ECU. The AIT sensor is not enough to run the car alone, it works in conjunction with the MAP sensor (PV=nRT and all that).
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Feb 22, 2009 03:04
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Well yeah, in most cases the Megasquirt either replaces the stock ECU in the stock location or runs as a piggyback and is mounted near the stock unit. edit: You know it's possible the PO just started a Megasquirt project and never finished...
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Feb 22, 2009 06:33
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Guinness posted:The Miata, and most Mazdas, are notorious for running on the rich side. The Miata will consume significantly more fuel if you keep it above 4000rpm for long periods of time - that's the point where the ECU goes to open loop. It just so happens that 4000rpm in 5th gear is pretty much exactly 80mph. So if you're going for good highway mileage keep cruising speeds below 80.
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Mar 4, 2009 19:12
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I had a paintless dent removal done for $100 on a few deep dings... overall it was a good experience and pretty impressive seeing the guy work. I don't know how much it would run for as many dents you describe or how severe they actually are. Since it's just a fender, I think your best bet is to find a replacement.
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Mar 4, 2009 21:57
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Ziploc posted:No destruction pictures Savington? He loves miataturbo.net more than he loves us.
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Mar 8, 2009 20:01
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Slothophile posted:No offense but what the gently caress is up with you guys and cupholders, can you not stand to be without liquid while you drive to work? I think the only time i've needed to drink in my car was when I drove for about 8 hours straight through France, and even then you can just jam a water bottle between the seat and center console. well if i spill beer in the car then it'll smell bad won't it?
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Mar 9, 2009 21:44
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The CARB legal BEGi kit for the 1.8 uses an FPR. I actually had this setup w/ a GT2554, but have since gone to Megasquirt. BEGi's Xede solution is still a piggyback, but it's nothing to scoff at. I believe it has more resolution/table-space than the Megasquirt, but it also doesn't have a MAP sensor, so it doesn't know how much boost there is. It only knows "there is boost" ... vs the MS which lets you tune the entire fuel and spark maps based on MAP.
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Mar 11, 2009 22:11
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Also, a cost effective approach can be to use BEGi's manifold and downpipe and then use ebay for the rest of your parts... however you won't get the CARB EO number if you need that. Also you'd need to know what you're doing. I'm pretty sure Savington did something like this (though I'm not sure what besides his DP is from BEGi)
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Mar 12, 2009 17:19
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Savington posted:I swear this came from a Miata Wait wait wait... the date on that says 3/12/09. This is your car? You seriously got it fixed already? e: also, why are your AFRs so low? 10.5 seems ridiculously rich. I figured 12-12.5 was really as rich as you needed to go? Hog Obituary fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Mar 15, 2009 |
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Mar 15, 2009 18:36
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Savington posted:8.5 days. Would have been under a week, but I had to wait for a BSP to NPT adapter that held me up for 2 days. Interesting, I'd never heard that before. Mind you, most of the time I just mindlessly do whatever Corky Bell tells me to do. I thought he aims for 12.5-13 (but maybe that's at lower boost)... I suppose there's probably a significant difference in economy? edit: for what it's worth, I'm at about 12.1 at 9psi (figuring that was low enough to be safe), but I haven't been to the dyno yet. My timing map is the stock MSPnP one, so I just sort of assume it's safe (can't hear anything and KSMS doesn't light up). Hog Obituary fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Mar 16, 2009 |
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Mar 16, 2009 16:27
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What's a used stock known-good radiator worth? I've got one I need to unload. Like $50 tops?
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Mar 20, 2009 07:37
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IOwnCalculus posted:Can't help you on the mechanic recommendation, but tool wise if you have a ratchet and some means of lifting the car safely, the O2 sensor should be no more than a single wiring connection and getting the old one out / putting the new one in. You can rent O2 sensor sockets at Autozone, they're just large sockets with a slit down the side for the wiring. I've never done one on a Miata so I don't know if you even need to bother lifting the car or not. Yeah, the O2 sensor is accessible from the driver's side front wheel well, so it's probably easiest to lift the car and take the tire off.
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Mar 23, 2009 17:21
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Guinness posted:I just got my 95 emissions tested today (passed no problem at all, hurrah). But when I was on the dyno, something tripped my ABS light on the dash. The same thing happened two years ago when I got emissions tested. These are the only two times it's ever happened in the 2.5 years I've owned the car, so I'm really not worried about it. I'm pretty sure that's the exact reason. There are speed sensors on all the wheels, and ABS only reacts when the wheel speeds are far enough apart that the ABS computer decides 'something ain't right, i better act" ... and presumably the dyno operator stepped on the brake at some point.
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Mar 24, 2009 02:16
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Guinness posted:I was the one behind the driver seat, and I never touched the brake pedal until the end. It's not that the ABS kicked in, but the light lit up and stayed lit as though it was like "hey I don't like something".
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Mar 24, 2009 06:11
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GoblinBomb posted:Turbo/SC guys, does the OE catalytic converter become a choke point when you add boost? My cat is pretty much dead, and I plan on doing FI... eventually, and I don't want to get an OE replacement and then find out I need a mad tyte high-flow cat or something silly. Yes it does. You'll want something that matches the diameter of your downpipe and catback. 2.5" is fine up to 12psi or so. Beyond that you'll want to go to 3". Do you need to replace the cat now because of smog or inspection?
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Mar 25, 2009 16:11
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mars posted:well this thread seems to have take a turn for post your crashed miata oh man if you're going to part it out I'm really interested. I want your mirrors. Where are you located? Please email me at hogobituary at gmail.
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Mar 30, 2009 18:35
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Still, $4500 seems quite cheap for that car, no? It seems to be pretty well sorted, but yeah, smog is going to be questionable.
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Apr 13, 2009 22:44
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destructo posted:No, turboed cars rarely sell for much more than stock ones. Welp, guess I'll be holding onto mine for a long time then.
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Apr 14, 2009 04:01
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Baby Hitler posted:Pretty much. The hoses are clamped badly, the vent line is now made of fuel line, the intercooler is dinged to hell, and the dumb bastard insulated his comrpessor outlet line. Its not tape, its a insulating wrap like for a/c lines. Presentation isn't everything but I wouldn't buy it for anything over cheap N/A NA prices since he doesn't care enough to make it look really nice. Engine is clean, though but really 5bucks a pressure washer fixes that. What does 'hoses are clamped badly' mean? I'm genuinely curious as I don't want to be badly clamping hoses. Also it looks like he's insulated his compressor inlet line, not the outlet line, as far as I can tell.
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Apr 14, 2009 22:24
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$5000 isn't really a steal for a '95M, but accounting for dealer markup it seems okay. It'll hold its value better than an ordinary NA, but don't be so sure you'll turn a profit selling it.
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Apr 17, 2009 16:15
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Look what happened to my hardtop.   Thankfully it's only a SnugTop and not worth $1000... but I think it's basically useless now. Think it would be safe if I bolted it on at all 4 latch points?
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Apr 18, 2009 02:44
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Well I bought it.
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Apr 18, 2009 05:46
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Tactical Bonnet posted:One is actually already gone, Supposedly it "must have bounced out" after I left the shop that checked it over before I bought it, but I'll be going to work on that soon. Not really... I mean you could do something retarded like glue them on, but then I don't know how the hell you'd ever get the tire off when you needed to. New ones are like $40-$50 (EACH!) on ebay last I checked. Hog Obituary fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Apr 18, 2009 |
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Apr 18, 2009 06:54
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Tactical Bonnet posted:edit: I found a centercap, new from the dealer for $24.XX after tax. What really? It never even occurred to me to get it from the dealer. Do you have it in your hands or is it something you ordered at the parts counter? Cause I hope you're getting the BBS center cap and not something else? 
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Apr 23, 2009 17:30
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Yup, that looks like a pretty good buy if you can get it for $5k aside from the mileage. I'm a little suspicious of what "new hardtop" means though. If it's not OEM it's not worth $1000. quote:Bilstein Coil-Overs with Eibach Springs, Height Adjustable quote:Tubular Sway Bars front and rear with Heim Joints
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May 3, 2009 20:58
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Personally, I'd prefer the higher mileage car that has been taken care of, but mileage is still mileage. The BP is pretty stout, but you should be concerned about the timing belt and the clutch. If the seller has credible records showing that they were done recently, then you're in pretty good shape at that price. If not, then consider that you'll have to replace them and both jobs are labor intensive. I can't say how long the clutch or belt will last... you might get another 60k out of the car before you have to do them, or you might have to one of them next week.
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May 4, 2009 00:00
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Heh, that's funny since I've got the same car as you and I'd take the soft top out and bolt my hard top on if my HT weren't busted (and also a lovely SnugTop).
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May 4, 2009 03:32
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Looks like somebody is selling theirs... http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cl...prevaction=show :P
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May 4, 2009 04:44
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Well there's always goop/sealer/etc as wintyfresh mentioned. I think you can use something that's not super strong/harsh (silicone?) so it'll be reversible should you ever try to put it on the concourse in 20 years. :P
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May 5, 2009 04:39
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Yeah, I'm running an MSPnP. Cool beans. That's a great price though, I think I paid nearly double for my PnP after shipping, etc.
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May 7, 2009 05:05
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Savington posted:I did Energy Suspension bushings a while back and love them. I'll probably do MMRs eventually. Can't justify $100 for diff bushings right now. Why're you selling your hardtop, btw? Oh yeah, so I just pulled the trigger on a set of non-adjustable Fat Cat Motorsports coilovers today since I hate money. The wait is going to kill me.
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May 8, 2009 04:35
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Oh sorry, I just assumed you guys knew what I was talking about. The shocks are non-adjustable. http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_Bilstein_coilover_revalve.htm
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May 8, 2009 05:56
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Speaking of dash works, is there a way to adjust the vents? Mine are rather loose and flop downwards all the time. I'd really prefer to avoid the "jam something in them to hold them in place," or "use grippy tape" methods. Try setting them where you want and then just pushing it in a bit. Usually that works to keep them where you adjusted them.
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May 10, 2009 01:45
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You can do stock springs with Tokico Illuminas and Fat Cat Motorsports bump stops and it should be pretty comfortable. The general consensus I've found over on miata.net is that Illuminas are preferred over KYB AGX or Bilstein HD. Apparently the stock valving for NA Bilstein HDs sucks and the ride is very rough. edit: NONE of this is based on personal experience.
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May 12, 2009 19:25
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Springs don't really ever need replacing unless they're broken.
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May 14, 2009 01:31
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Wait, are you going to do a full build on that 99 motor now? Lowering compression I assume?
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May 14, 2009 06:05
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A regular single DIN size head unit will fit just fine.
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May 19, 2009 17:30
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Doesn't credit card via PayPal give you a reasonable amount of protection? (I've never actually tried to dispute anything with PayPal, but they sure try to make it seem safe)
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May 21, 2009 16:04
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 14:15 |
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So are you saying credit card via paypal is good or bad?
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May 21, 2009 23:36
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