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 I haven't done any sewing in a while, but I got this fabric from a friend and couldn't help myself. It's entirely sewed by hand as I don't have a machine right now, and it was a pretty big learning experience. Backstitching seems to make a pretty strong seam, but we'll see how it holds up over time. I have no idea how I summoned up the patience to finish the whole thing in one marathon session, but there it is. I followed this pattern if anyone's interested.
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Apr 9, 2012 19:14
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 20:46 |
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Well I finished another project: Gold lame stretchy skirt, made it in size 6 for a friend. I used a machine this time, so I did french seams and it's actually a pretty awesome job. Not visible is the center back seam and slit. I got the fabric on Etsy a while back, it's actually vintage from the '80s.  I have enough to make two more, and I've been wanting to start an Etsy store for years now. I think I may have found my niche, or at least a great starting point. Omg.edit: heh those creases aren't as visible in real life, at least the material doesn't take too badly to some light ironing. Silver Alicorn fucked around with this message at 10:31 on Apr 28, 2012 |
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Apr 28, 2012 10:27
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Goldaline posted:
It took me a few takes to realize that's made of upholstery fabric, and that is incredibly awesome. Is that just a double-ring cinch closure?
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Apr 29, 2012 19:23
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I've looked it over a few times now and that's actually a real nice pattern for free. The different sizes should be pretty handy on their own. Looks simple enough to make variations on easily enough too.
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May 2, 2012 22:58
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Doesn't matter WHAT you're sewing, get the second one. Computerized sewing machines are mostly a gimmick and pretty finicky. The heavy duty one will be much more consistent with whatever type of fabric you sew, and that'll save you a lot of headache in the long run. As in, you won't start to hate sewing.
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May 10, 2012 02:44
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Rufus En Fuego posted:Stay away from the heavy duty Singer. I bought one for my girlfriend last year and it broke in a day. I exchanged it for another, and that one broke too - the same exact problem (dogs don't return to start when you drop them). Finally I sat myself down at JoAnn's sewing center and compared it to every other Singer they had, and Curvy won. http://www.amazon.com/SINGER-8763-Computerized-Sewing-Machine/dp/B0027DLWS2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336666964&sr=8-1 Fair enough. I've used old Adlers for most of my sewing and have had bad experience with newer machines, so I was going off of that. Maybe I'll look into that for myself! (haha no I am trying to go pro and the volume of sewing I would do would trash it) Also, I made a dress:  It was a hit! Really nice faux suede farbic, like wearing a comfy old couch. It fit perfectly, which was awesome because I made the pattern myself. It was tough because the machine I made it on wasn't an old Adler, and had issues with feeding the top thread that I couldn't work out, but I was able to hide that, mostly. Very fun job but I wish I had a better machine! I used an invisible zipper too, which involved running out to the sewing shop before they closed so I could get the right presser foot. Totally worth it though.
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May 12, 2012 18:58
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NancyPants posted:e: Is anyone using or has used a Brother LS-2125i? I'm having a hell of a time with upper and lower thread tension. After rewinding bobbins and fiddling with upper tension to no end, I finally started messing with the bobbin tension and can't remember where it was set at the factory. Any tips? Does it just use a little flathead screw in the bobbin case? They say you're not supposed to mess with the bottom tension, yeah, but if it does go off, the rule of thumb is to get the tension to be even at a "reasonable" top tension for whatever fabric you sew most. So with cotton broadcloth, start at maybe 3 or 4 on the top and just adjust the bottom until the stitches disappear between the two layers of fabric on both sides. To check if it's perfect, you can grab one of the threads and pull; if it breaks you're in business. Check both sides. You can also see if it's too tight all around by sewing along the bias, and then stretching the fabric along the bias to make sure the threads don't break. You may of course end up with some weird fabric/thread/needle combination that screws the machine up. My last project was a slippery polyester and I was using polyester thread, and the machine I was using wouldn't stay consistent with its top tension at all. Worked fine with cotton cloth though.
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May 31, 2012 22:27
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I'm trying to work out the kinks with my machine, and I have a question. Is it normal for a zigzag stitch to do this? Looks normal, though the top thread tension is a bit high...  When you pull the seam open, the fabric sorta rolls a little, exposing the seam. Is it just because I'm using such a thin fabric? I actually kinda like the effect, but I'd like to know if it's a mistake or if it'll somehow be weaker than it should be.
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Jul 17, 2012 22:03
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Different fabric types get sewn together all the time, see for instance the lining in just about any suit. The issue is if one fabric slips too much in relation to the other, it can cause puckering. You can overcome this with some interfacing though. The only thing I wouldn't try too seriously is mixing knit with woven.
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Jul 23, 2012 10:46
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Coopsy posted:I thought about interfacing but on a sheer it wouldn't really work. I was thinking of water-soluble interfacing if that makes sense. I haven't used it before but it'd be the first thing I'd try.
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Jul 23, 2012 20:34
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Yeah that's a wire dress form, looks like the kind Dritz used to make. A friend of mine used to have one. I don't think they make them anymore. There's one for sale on eBay though: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300847056179
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Feb 5, 2013 09:46
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Vulvarine posted:So, I've been potentially hired to sew a metric shitton of lycra for an art project. I'm not terribly familiar with stretch fabric, thought I've turned out a number of cotton jersey t-shirts using just straight and zigzag stitches on my old 60s-era workhorse just fine. The lycra stuff doesn't have to be precise, but I'm wondering if I should get a special needle or a walking foot or something, or some kind of magical spray, or if there are specific problems to look out for while working with lycra. Any advice? If your machine can already handle jersey it should be okay with lycra as well, but this can be really specific to the machine. Best practice is to use a ball point needle because a regular needle can snag and slice the material. If you end up with missed stitches it can sometimes be because the fabric is getting dragged down with the thread far enough that the rotary hook can't grab the thread - a throat plate with a smaller opening is supposed to fix this, and would be the ideal solution, but short of that you can buy water soluble interfacing and wash it out, spray-on starch might even work as well.
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Mar 23, 2013 20:34
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Contractor grade silicone (the kind you'll find in Home Depot) is really low quality not to mention it has a strange smell. I've never tried it for this but I'd just as soon get something out of McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#silicone-caulk/=xwxt5n) and call it good. They have a clear, food-grade sealant, first on the list, that looks good to me though I don't know how stretchy/flexible it'll be when it's cured.
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Jul 5, 2015 05:36
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Public Serpent posted:Hi sewing thread! Got a baby laying around, so I thought I'd try my hand at sewing for her. You can topstitch knits with a double needle. Make sure you get one for jersey/stretch. With it you just do a straight stitch but the bobbin thread ends up zig-zagging between the two top threads so the stitching can stretch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ttR4iZZfH4&t=586s
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Nov 8, 2015 07:47
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Hello, I'm a big fan of pandas and there's currently a fat quarter bundle on massdrop heavily featuring both giant and red pandas: MOD EDIT: no heckin referral links Just thought you'd like to know. Somebody fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Oct 5, 2016 |
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Oct 2, 2016 19:47
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 20:46 |
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That's just gorgeous 
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May 16, 2018 04:19
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