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Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Quick question: I'm making a panel-and-godet skirt. I have no serger. What are some ways to do a seam finish, given the triple junction that godets create?

# ¿ Jun 2, 2011 02:29

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# ¿ Jun 4, 2023 22:51

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

amishsexpot posted:

I'm more of a beginner so please keep that in mind, but pinking shears are pretty good in a pinch. Plus, you don't need to deal with seam tape or anything.

That really only works on fabrics that don't ravel much. This is a plain-weave cotton.

# ¿ Jun 2, 2011 04:49

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

ladyofshallnot posted:

If you could have any sewing machine within the 100 - 140 dollar range, what would it be?

Honestly, I can't think of any machines I'd want in that range. If I wanted the best cheap machine possible, I'd get a sub-$100 Singer 99 (which is what I did). If I wanted to pay more I'd have to spend a few hundred on a good used Bernina or a Singer Slant-o-Matic.
The $100-200 range is full of junk.

# ¿ Jul 10, 2011 16:33

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

ladyofshallnot posted:

Yeah, having discussed it with her (I ruin birthday presents), she's really interested in the more vintage machines that work with leather/could be used to bludgeon somebody to death.

I may give her a heartfelt IOU until I get back to the states and we can hunt thrift stores and tag sales to see what we can find.

If all you need is a straight stitch, old iron is the best way to go. Solid, immortal, and startlingly quiet - I don't mean "for its age" but solid metal body and linkage is far quieter than a modern plastic machine with all its rattles.
Plus there's just the joy that comes with sitting down with a glossy black enameled machine. They're just beautiful.

# ¿ Jul 10, 2011 22:21

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Vulvarine posted:

Draw-string pajama pants are a typical beginner project; all straight lines, you can pick a fun personalized fabric, and it's pretty hard to gently caress up the fit. There are a billion online tutorials.

I actually managed to screw it up. I fitted the waist.

# ¿ Jul 31, 2011 04:07

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Furnok Dorn posted:

I was thinking about selling some shirts to goons once I got a bunch more permanent screens made, so if you're interested, give me a bit and I can probably hook you up!

At what volume would you consider buying materials and setting up the screens worthwhile?

# ¿ Aug 12, 2011 17:44

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Iron Crowned posted:

So, I actually have two sewing machines in my posession:

A mid-60's era Singer with all the discs, manuals, everything. I bought it a few years back on ebay with the intention to start sewing. I was misreading the threading diagram at the time and managed to break every single needle I'd put in it, and quickly got frustrated where it became entombed in my closet.

A late 70's possibly early 80's Kenmore, with no manual. I inherited this one from my mom when she moved away, because she had bought a new machine. All the stitching types covered by the Singer's discs appear to be built in to this one. As it stands I got it the same year as the Singer so I was still a bit frustrated at the time, and they ended up side by side in the closet. My mom did show me how to thread it properly which led to the revelation that the diagram for the SInger sucked, but I can't for the life of me remember how it threads. It's also been a sturdy machine for my mom, she used it from as long as I can remember until the mid 2000's when she just wanted a new piece of crap to impress her new quilting friends.

Anyway, the question is, which one should I be using? Or do both have their merits? The Kenmore seems to be the simplicity choice due to everything being built in, but that makes it a more complex machine with more things that could go wrong. The Singer on the other hand, while not seeming as simple to use, is a simpler machine.

What's the Singer model?

# ¿ Sep 20, 2011 22:09

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

The Singer 603 is one of the last good Singers. Not as good as the Slant-O-Matics that came before it, but better than the rest of the Touch & Sew line that it started.

Worth keeping around.

# ¿ Sep 21, 2011 01:29

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Speaking of sleeves...
All my dress shirts have a flat-felled seam for the sleeves. How do you do that? It's a tube!

e: Also, nice shirt. Especially the collar - I have trouble getting the collar band to not be juuuust too long or too short

# ¿ Sep 28, 2011 21:39

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Find a different pattern. There are so many out there you'll be able to find one that's what you like using wovens with little trouble.

# ¿ Oct 18, 2011 15:09

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

HondaCivet posted:

This is kind of a long shot but I thought I'd at least try . . . I'm not an actual, uh, sew-y person so forgive me if my questions are stupid but I wanted to see if you guys had any advice on a little project I was thinking about doing.

Basically, I just got a new wool (well, mostly wool) coat. The only problem with it are two decorative buckles on the front. They're crummy fake leather and after using them a few times they're already cracking apart. The coat is otherwise nice, I have no idea why they'd put such junky things on it. Anyway, I wanted to replace them myself with some nice toggles.

Now my questions:
1) I'm assuming I'd basically just need a strong needle and any old thread to do this? The main problem is that the coat's lined so I'd have to either stitch through the whole thing or somehow maneuver the needle in and out of the first layer without going through the second. Are there any tools/needles to make this kind of thing easier?

2) Where the hell do I find complete toggles (big fat end part, cord and leather tab)? Am I just going to have to hope I can find someone on Etsy that will make them for me? I can find the big end buttons but that's about it.

This is probably a dumb thing to ask about but it's something I'm going to wear every day until it gets warm again so I'd prefer it to not be a total hack job.

For 1), a thimble. And make sure your needle is strong. I've had broken needles lodged in my fingers because I didn't do those things when hand-sewing thick material.

# ¿ Oct 27, 2011 03:50

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

madlilnerd posted:

Try using wool- with a tight weave it's fairly water repellent and can feel warm even when it is wet. A cheap option would be finding old wool sweaters at a thrift store and cutting them up, you could also try making it out of wool socks.

I'd stay away from wool. It's remarkably water repellent up to a point, but as soon as it gets past that point, it's completely saturated and takes forever to dry out.

# ¿ Oct 28, 2011 16:52

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

No, actually, it is. It won't hold up if you're standing in pouring rain literally all day but it's one of the best fibers for water resistance in normal use.

# ¿ Oct 29, 2011 00:58

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Is it missing the belt?

Also, sewing with a treadle is no different from sewing with any other machine. Treadle machines are the same machine as motor-driven or hand-cranked, the only difference is what turns the crank.

# ¿ Nov 6, 2011 18:52

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

cryingscarf posted:

Thank you! That makes me happy that I did not make a mistake in buying it.

It moves smoothly as far as I can tell when I turn the wheel on the machine. The one thing I am a little concerned about is that when I use the foot thing, the wheel on the bottom turns and every couple of seconds sounds like it rubs or grinds against something as it turns. Any idea what this could be and how I could fix it? Could it be metal scraping where the belt is supposed to be? I can get a video of the sound if that would help.

Turn it slowly and stop as soon as you hear the noise. Inspect it to see if you can find what rubs.

Also, just to be safe, a reminder to only turn the sewing machine wheel towards yourself. You can really mess up the linkage if you turn it backwards.

# ¿ Nov 7, 2011 20:04

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

foutre posted:

I'm one of those awkwardly tall/skinny people who can't find pants. I've finally decided, that, if the clothing industry won't give me properly fitting jeans, then I imagine I'll just have to make them myself. Luckily, I have a lovely old Elna to do so on. Unfortunately, the last time I sewed was in 8th grade. I realize that, realistically, I probably won't be able to jump straight to making jeans (and certainly not to making jeans that anyone would want to wear). So, I was wondering if anyone had suggestions going into this project, maybe some patterns to start out on, some skills to practice etc. Also, if anyone knows where to find a pattern for slim-fitting men's jeans, that would be lovely.

Thanks! I'm sure I'll be back to badger you guys with more questions along the way.

I haven't started making pants yet, but in the meantime I took in the waist on my jeans. I just did simple darts centered above the back pockets so it's not invisible, but it was quick and most people don't notice, especially since I usually don't tuck a shirt into jeans.

# ¿ Nov 10, 2011 23:41

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

amishsexpot posted:

Doesn't that make your waistband super bulky? I have a bunch of skirts I really want to take in, but I was under the impression that I'd have to remove the waist band, take in the darts, then readjust the length of the waistband and resew it on.

That would be the clean way to do it, yes. However, on jeans I also took out the extra thickness fabric off the part of the waistband I was folding in so that reduced the bulk.

# ¿ Nov 15, 2011 16:32

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

A Singer 66 will continue to straight stitch after we're all dead. They made them from around 1900 to 1945 or so, so they're still everywhere and cheap. The earlier ones had the prettier decals but the later ones had the back-tack you want.
The Singer 99 is a portable 3/4 size 66, it's what I use.

The 201k was also a great machine, but more expensive at the time so somewhat less ubiquitous.

The picture on the right you have looks like one of those two.

The Singer 500A Slant-o-Matic is arguably the best machine they ever made - as tough as the iron beasts that came before but with zig-zag cam capability, but accessories are harder to find and they're usually considerably more expensive than the 66s.

# ¿ Nov 21, 2011 16:19

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

raej posted:

My wife decided to buy a sewing machine on a whim to "learn how to sew." Her mother sews, my mother sews, but she is limited in her skill.

Does anyone have any how-to or project books that I could get her to start her off in her illustrious sewing hobby?

The Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing is really indispensable.

# ¿ Nov 30, 2011 20:34

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

The former is what I and many other people I know have.

# ¿ Nov 30, 2011 21:25

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Sleeves are not easy at all, especially if it's a standard dress shirt with flat-felled seams.

# ¿ Dec 1, 2011 18:54

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Shnooks posted:

So, I have a couple of T-shirts that are too short for my liking, or too loose around the bottom, but I really like them

Any suggestions on lengthening them? I was thinking of getting some knit fabric and making a band around the bottom, but I wasn't sure how dumb that would look.

What do they look like now?

# ¿ Dec 2, 2011 17:34

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

uberwekkness posted:

I would really like to get into sewing, particularly for costumes. I can get access to a sewing machine, but I don't have one myself. Is it a terrible idea to try to learn how to do things by hand? I've made repairs to clothes, and certain hats (for costumes) by hand, but would it be too ambitious to do a full piece of clothing by hand? Are there any resources to teach me how to do specific stitches by hand? The one I'm currently most curious about, is how to sew stretch fabric. I know most people need a particular sewing machine to do it, but I'd like to hem a stretchy dress I have.

Other question is, I'd like to make this dress for a costume:
http://www.simplicity.com/p-5528-misses-dresses-cynthia-rowley-collection.aspx

And if I feel particularly insane, this one, later:
http://www.simplicity.com/p-1547-costumes.aspx

Can anyone tell me what I'm getting myself into?

For stretchy fabric, you just need to zigzag it. Most commercial stretch fabric is done using a serger - take a look at the seams on the dress you want to alter.

Doing things by hand sucks and takes forever.

# ¿ Dec 30, 2011 16:43

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Cerri posted:

I've decreed I can sew no more till I get all my craft/sewing poo poo organized. To that end, I've been working on a wall unit to hold all my sewing/crafting stuff. I'm looking for more creative organization ideas than "put poo poo in boxes on shelves".

How do you guys keep your stuff wrangled, to prevent it taking over the house like mine currently is?

I have a closet whose door I can barely close due to spare fabric falling out.

# ¿ Jan 6, 2012 01:52

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

madlilnerd posted:

How many of you have dedicated craft rooms? I was going through the comments on the site like "woaah"

When we moved into this house, a small spare bedroom was being used as the laundry room. We kept the washer and dryer there, but I also have a 6 foot folding table in there, a small bookshelf with all my sewing, woodworking, etc. books on it, and the closet is all fabric, projects, notions, and so forth. So not a dedicated room but close enough.

The table kind of sucks, though. It's molded plastic rather than pressed wood and it vibrates like crazy from the machine.

# ¿ Jan 7, 2012 15:44

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Etheldreda posted:

My ironing board is really terrible despite being pretty new; it doesn't seem to have any padding so I can't iron things flat (and I'm trying to sew patchwork). It's also wobbly and shrieks horribly when I unfold the legs. I've found some super expensive ironing boards online but I don't really want to order one sight unseen. Where can I find a good ironing board in person, or, can anyone vouch for one of the expensive online ones?

Places I've tried:
Target - nothing good
Sears - couldn't find any at all
WalMart - actually my GPS didn't want me to go there and I spent 45 minutes driving in a circle so I gave up finding the store, but I could give it another shot
Home Goods - doesn't sell ironing boards
JoAnn's - doesn't sell ironing boards either!

I think a more accurate thing to say is "my ironing board is terrible because it's pretty new".

I have not seen a good ironing board sold in stores. They're all wobbly and have such thin padding that it waffle-patterns everything you press on them. Try doing some vintage shopping to find either a really old board that's made from wood (I currently have an old one like that) or at least one that's sheet metal instead of that lattice. If the padding is too thin, you can get jute padding and cut to size.

# ¿ Jan 28, 2012 20:42

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

e: n/m, Peter Pan collars may use some other construction I know nothing about

Stultus Maximus fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Feb 20, 2012

# ¿ Feb 20, 2012 20:33

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Valdara posted:

My soon-to-be-mother-in-law knows that I sew and gave me an old piece of fabric that she had for me to make something awesome out of it. It is a beautiful, 8'x10' piece of linen with a circle motif centered on it. The problem is that I don't want to cut it up senselessly or waste any of the beautiful pattern. It's not repeating, just one big panel. The only things I can think of are table cloth or wall-hanging, and neither are particularly appealing.

Here is a picture of it draped over my crafting table. Any thoughts on what I could possibly make from it?

Edit: The more I look at it, the more I'm thinking skirt. Cut out the middle bit big enough for an elastic waist and make a pillow or applique it on something, cut out the length to reach the ground, and have a gorgeous skirt. I always, always fight the hoarding tendency of "saving it for something awesome" and rarely actually get things made. I'm also tempted to wait and make this skirt to wear at my wedding. I don't plan on wearing a traditional wedding dress, and this would be much more meaningful than just about anything else ever.

It would look great as a sarong.

# ¿ Feb 21, 2012 02:42

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Can anyone recommend used serger models to look out for?
I've finally decided that maybe knit/stretch fabrics do have a place after all and my Singer 99k just isn't enough.

# ¿ Mar 2, 2012 19:56

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Rufus En Fuego posted:

I. Love. My. Babylock. Holy cow. I may even stipulate that it be buried with me in the event of my death.

What features would you consider essential?

# ¿ Mar 5, 2012 17:33

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Comrade Quack posted:

I'm helping clean out my grandmas house after her death. I'm thinking about trying to sell a bunch of sewing stuff from the 70s. Anyone interested?

Whaddya got?

# ¿ Apr 24, 2012 00:19

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Smeef posted:

I picked up some nice 100% cotton fabrics, but they're a little too rough for clothing right now.

Any tips for softening them? It's fabric by the meter, so I'm not sure if machine washing it would tear it up or not. I've read that baking soda and vinegar can be used as substitutes for fabric softener, but which is more effective? I want to make the fabrics as soft as possible, so environmental concerns on a small project like this aren't going to bother me.

Also, what's the most effective way to pre-shrink fabric prior to sewing? I made a shirt before and soaked the fabric (100% cotton) in water for a few hours before hanging dry in the sun. The finished shirt still shrank considerably after the first wash.

100% cotton should be fine in a washing machine. Also, washing AND drying 100% cotton in hot water/high drying heat will pre-shrink it as much as you can do. It may still shrink after that, but that's cotton for you.

Not baking soda but washing soda is what you want to put in. It's a water softener. Washing soda in the soak/wash cycle and vinegar in the rinse is what I do.

# ¿ Apr 24, 2012 13:51

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

TheNothingNew posted:

Alter them how? In what way do they not fit?
And how exactly are you defining "really expensive?"

Dress shirts are defined by neck and sleeve measurements, as well as (sometimes) a slim/athletic/classic body shape. Pretty much everyone is covered by those options, so where is your concern?

If you can't get "athletic" fit and need it, the shirt is like a tent. Also, sleeve measurements tend to be things like "34/35" and as far as I know, my arms don't have two different measurements at once.

# ¿ May 7, 2012 17:09

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Unoriginal posted:

Having taught myself everything I know, I obviously have some huge gaps in my knowledge including the area regarding ironing boards. What should I be using for padding under my ironing board's cover? The pad that came with it was cheap and thin and virtually useless (and was causing the board's grid pattern to be burned/melted into some of my fabrics) so I bought a new one. There weren't many to choose from at Jo-Ann and I need it now so I just grabbed the heaviest duty looking one and what do you know, it's made of polyester felt. So when I was ironing on some interfacing, it became flattened and lumpy with iron prints and didn't bounce back.

WTF am I supposed to use instead because this is ridiculous. Who would make an ironing board pad out of something that melts under high heat, like what you might encounter while *ironing*?

New ironing board pads are universally terrible. Jute padding could work, maybe.

# ¿ Aug 29, 2012 14:36

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Dr. Kloctopussy posted:

Bonus (?): These are some tiny meat pillows that I made for my studio space's "open studio" night. Because making people who came to see art contemplate meat pillows is hilarious.

Love it, want to make some as gifts. How did you do the color/texture?

# ¿ Oct 19, 2012 11:54

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

I'm about to pull the trigger on the popular Brother 1034d serger. Looked at reviews, seems to be a very popular entry-level serger (and I can't afford more than entry level right now) and Brother in general is a decent manufacturer. Before I do, anyone here know any reasons that this is a bad idea?

# ¿ Oct 27, 2012 16:04

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Awesome. Next question for everyone - good resources for clothing alteration? All the books I keep finding online are about pattern alteration or full clothing de/reconstruction but I want to learn how to alter existing clothing - take in shirts, shorten sleeves, fit a dress better etc.

# ¿ Oct 28, 2012 12:09

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Reverend Cheddar posted:

This is why I hate store-bought patterns sometimes, it's like they think that people who want to sew want mom jeans. drat it, we sew because we don't like what's offered in the store and we know we can do better!

It's even worse if you're trying to make mens' clothing.

# ¿ Nov 6, 2012 15:53

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

Reverend Cheddar posted:

Oh, that's what it's called in English? Figures. I've been telling everyone I use 'oxydol' to get out blood stains. I always thought that's where they got the name 'Oxiclean' from for that one laundry detergent

Oxiclean is a powder that breaks down into hydrogen peroxide and sodium carbonate (washing soda) in water.

# ¿ Dec 14, 2012 15:14

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# ¿ Jun 4, 2023 22:51

Stultus Maximus: Dec 21, 2009; USPOL May

canyoneer posted:

Has anyone had a good experience buying a sewing machine on eBay? I just had a horrible experience buying one on eBay (now in dispute with seller), a gorgeous Bernina 1630 for $550 that the seller shipped 2,000 miles packed loosely in a too-big box with a tablecloth as padding Of course it showed up super broken and is going back.
Is my only other choice finding a local shop? I don't even know.

Also, has anyone had any experience with buying serger thread on ebay? I want to do some knits, don't want to use the dollar bin stuff that breaks all the time, and also not paying $7/tube x4 would be nice.

I got my Singer 99 on eBay and I'm perfectly happy with it.

# ¿ Dec 14, 2012 17:41

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