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I have a sewing problem that I can't quite seem to solve. I make leather products, and one thing that sells well is collars. I make collars with leather and fabric; I use a sturdy leather for the main part, a soft garment leather for the front and rolled edges, and either a fabric or a leather backing. All hosting is mine. Step 1 : Lay out the pattern on a piece of sturdy leather  Step 2 : Glue that to a piece of garment leather  Step 3 : Cut collar into shape, insert strap / buckle etc. Step 4: Lay a strip of garment leather, good side down, onto the garment leather side of the collar. Stitch.  Step 5 : Apply adhesive to back of collar, and roll strips into place.   And this is where I run into problems. I take a piece of fabric that's already been cut and hemmed into shape. I put it on the back of the collar, and then try to run another line of stitching snugged right up against the edges. But it's way too easy to make a mistake...  In this example, the foot of the machine was right on the edge of strap that runs down the middle, and it shifted just as the needle came down. That puts a hole in the rolled edge, which ruins it. So I have to start over. Since I'm sewing with this side face up, it's very easy for the fabric on the bottom to get misaligned, then I have a loose spot. Ideally, I wouldn't have to do this second round of stitching at all; you'd just see a smooth face on the front. But, I want the back to look nice, too; not just be a bunch of exposed edges. Here's a side view  However, I can't figure out a way to finish the edges without doing another round of stitching, the part labeled "second round of stitching." I considered gluing the fabric to the back, and gluing the edges of the collar over it, but my concern there is that, in time, the glue will weaken. A stitch lasts a lot longer. Plus, when the fabric part does work out, it looks great; no exposed edges, everything is either seamed or hemmed or whatnot. Due to the stiffness of the leather, I can't just sew everything inside out and then flip it back. Is there another construction technique that would work? Or is the only answer "get better at sewing" ? Pagan fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Mar 31, 2014 |
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Mar 31, 2014 20:44
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 07:42 |
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Funhilde posted:Maybe a different foot will help you- either a zipper foot or a "stitch in the ditch" foot. It keeps the item that is being sewn lined up for stitching. I've thought about that; the only downside is this is a heavy duty leather machine; it doesn't use feet that I can buy just anywhere. A single sided foot (close to a zipper foot) costs around $80, and I'd like to be sure that's my best option before spending the money. Here's a picture of the leather sewing machine next to my kenmore. 
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Mar 31, 2014 21:05
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