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I just keep wanting to make Burning Man clothing. Origami crane tail bustle made of layered muslin and tulle. Denim underbust corset covered in white lace (how very country). I'm making a standard ruffled tulle bustle to wear to a party tomorrow night. You know, I have two jobs, I really don't have time for this... but my sewing machine just stares at me until I guiltily work on my projects.
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Dec 15, 2007 11:35
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If you look at the knitting, it's just a bunch of side-by-side slipknots through the last row's slipknots, etc. If you drop a stitch, find the loose loop back where you dropped it and pull the next unstitched row through it the right way - just pull the loop through to make it look like the loops next to it. Dropped stitches get easy to avoid anyway, so you hardly have to worry once you get the hang of it.
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Dec 30, 2007 10:22
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Muffy_the_Diver posted:
It's not a bustle skirt or a bustle that you stick under a skirt to pooch it out. The key to clothing at Burning Man is making it light, easy, and modular. As such, my bustles are little one-off affairs you tie with a band around your waist (or safety pin or baste on) to go over a skirt or some hot shorts or what have you. I'm thinking about using thicker, more visually attractive waistbands, with velcro closure (so you don't have to tuck it into or under something else to hide the ends).
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Jan 11, 2008 09:28
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RichBomb posted:
Denim should be totally doable, get the right needle. The one you have now might have a broken tip, which would prevent it from going through.
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Feb 28, 2008 04:10
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That happens to me too! Usually a bobbin problem, but sometimes completely mysterious (but goes away when I start on a different fabric, so maybe that's it).
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May 27, 2008 06:19
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logorrhea posted:Oh my god- are you me? I just found this pattern the other day and I've been obsessed ever since. I was thinking of trying it in this cotton: Michael Miller cotton Oh yeah, that! I have a blue one hanging in my closet right now. I don't like how tight the front apron part is (not the part that comes around from the back), and the snaps just aren't doing it for me, so I'm thinking about redoing it with real buttons with buttonholes, and putting gores in the front part so it can flow more naturally.
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Jun 8, 2008 08:26
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Hey, I'm about to make a ginormous wired ribbon (probably three or four yards long and at least a foot and a half wide) to tie around me as part of a costume at a party tonight. I plan on buying white sheets from the thrift store and softish wire from the hardware store, and then essentially sewing the wire into the hem of the long strip I'll make from the sheet. Will this work? Should I double up the fabric for more stiffness? Will starch be enough to stiffen the fabric between the wires?
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Jun 28, 2008 18:34
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RedFish posted:Thanks for the replies, good to know. I've since gone quilt fabric groping, and I see what you mean. Bamboo fabric is like if you spun marshmallows and wove fabric with it. It's amazing.
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Jul 26, 2008 05:32
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RedFish posted:Question: How much 'ease' is factored into patterns? I've yet to make something based on my waist measurements that didn't feel like a tent once I put it on, and require several inches to be taken in. Yeah, I made a McCall's cloak pattern in the Small size (supposedly for a bust of 32") (also what does bust have to do with cloaks) and it had eight inches of what I call "vertical ease" and the shoulders were more than a foot too wide, even when I drew the neckline to my actual neck. I understand making things too big for fat people, but how does having a 32" bust tell the pattern that I have like, 40" shoulders??
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Aug 9, 2008 17:44
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Celluloid posted:Do we talk about knitting clothes in this thread? There's a "Show me your knits!" thread farther back in the forums! Go bump it. We're also on Ravelry as "Show me your knits" group.
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Aug 16, 2008 16:16
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ludosti posted:Ok, I'm seriously about to rip my hair out, so I appeal to the goon sewing gods to help me. I'm working with some lightweight bamboo jersey that I totally love, but trying to sew on it is making me contemplate murder. I'm using a ballpoint needle (I've been using a 70/10) and it doesn't matter what stitch I'm using - it skips stitches. I've tried experimenting with how many layers I'm sewing through (3 or 5 are the choices) and adding some interfacing, to no avail. I don't know what else to try... Dumb question, but you checked that your bobbin is put the right way around in the bobbin-holding-assembly thingy right? And loosening the top tension? Skipped stitches are always a problem with the machine's configuration for me.
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Oct 20, 2008 17:50
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Ooo, that's already getting a bit big. And it's an awkward place to get your sewing machine. Try ironing a bit of iron-on patch to the inside of it, then zig-zag stitch all over it from the outside to attach it firmly, so that all of the rent is covered in stitching. It's ugly, but if you do it with carpet or coat thread, it's more durable than the surrounding fabric =)
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Nov 21, 2008 04:57
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Gonktastic posted:I'm mostly curious because I do sketch out my ideas, but I don't really have the technical knowledge to make them come to life. For example, my recent sketches have had a lot of pleats, and I have no idea how to make them actually happen. The local community college sewing class is always full immediately. I have a book called "The Art of Manipulating Fabric" by Colette Wolff, and it's extremely technical but also extremely clear about how to execute specific techniques, like pleats, ruffles, gathers, smocking, tucks, and what-have-you. It also has a bajillion pictures of the techniques executed on plain white fabric, so you can know exactly what you're doing in advance. It's brilliant.
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Nov 30, 2008 23:29
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ludosti posted:
The narrow zig zag always warps the poo poo out of the fabric as it sews for me, and I can't lessen the tension of my presser foot. I solved this problem by using a relatively long and wide zig zag, which holds fine for me (probably because I get bored and go through clothes faster than they wear out). And even if it is less durable, I can always run it under the sewing machine again!
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Jan 18, 2009 19:22
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I've been busy. I started an Etsy store, so I have pretty pictures of the things I've been making.   
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Apr 22, 2009 05:01
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Those gathers will be somewhat annoying to get even with satin like that, and I imagine you'll need to set the bottom half's pleats by sewing them in nicely at the waistband. I get frustrated with slippery fabrics, but the pattern itself can't be that difficult. I'd do it if it weren't stupid slippery nonsense.
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Jun 2, 2009 20:45
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Wheeeeee! I just started working for a lady that makes custom clothing and accessories locally. I was working as a seamstress on my own six months ago, but I have no head for business. I'm glad I'll pretty much be doing the same thing, but with someone to remind me to go to work! 
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Jul 28, 2012 19:12
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It gets like 90% of the shrinking done. A second wash/dry will finish the job if you're paranoid, but you're looking at maybe a few mm per foot shrinkage at this point, so I wouldn't worry about it.
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Jul 31, 2012 23:37
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That's a lot of work for fake meat.
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Oct 20, 2012 20:33
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Oracle posted:Oh my god gently caress armholes forever. This is the first time I've made anything with sleeves loving argh. Anyone got any tips or tricks on how to do this without making my kid look like the loving hunchback of notre dame or me killing myself in frustration I'm all ears. Doesn't help this ancient loving sewing machine keeps unthreading the needle... Armholes are the most often hosed up thing in store-bought patterns in my experience, and it's the hardest to tell. Basting by hand is the best thing, because then you can tell if there's a serious mismatch between the sleeve cap and the armscye. Altering either of those curved lines is tricky business too, so usually just taking in or letting out the lengthwise seam of the sleeve is safe as long as you're not altering it by more than half an inch.
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Oct 31, 2012 02:59
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Oracle posted:Yeah its totally screwed up, but I can't say as I blame the pattern so much as my lovely cutting ability (oh hi, left-handed sewer). Not that you can really tell at a glance, but it is the most hosed up jury-rigged slapped together piece of crap. But its done and he loves it, so. Blind hemming is also something I do by hand. The stitches are big, so it goes fast, and it looks much better. You also only have to do it once. Some poor lady came into our shared workspace today and tried to replace a zipper. When she couldn't get that to work, she tried to sew some elastic into something. When she couldn't get that to work either, she tried to serge something but then it stopped chaining. When I heard what she had attempted, I was impressed that she hadn't just started crying right then and there... those are the three most annoying things ever. Edit: guys, I'm too depressed to sew. What's a good cheer-up get-back-on-the-horse project?
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Nov 1, 2012 22:25
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If I made a jacket that nice for my boyfriend for a costume, I'd murder him if he never wore it after Halloween.
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Nov 14, 2012 00:42
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Last night I dreamed I made a herringbone quilt with strips a quarter inch wide. Ouch.
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Nov 15, 2012 19:25
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Is there any possible way you can just buy fabric of the right colors? Dyeing to a perfect hue is a... touchy process. Edit: looks like the closest match is pure Sunshine Orange, but their greens are all too washed out to match the vibrancy of the flag. Pile of Kittens fucked around with this message at 09:54 on Nov 19, 2012 |
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Nov 19, 2012 09:50
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Ooof, getting those nice clean lines will be hell too.
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Nov 19, 2012 18:41
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amishsexpot posted:You mean making a yoke and having a hem at the top? You wouldn't get the stretchy waistband effect then. Depends how you sewed the hem, the ideal being coverstitch, but we don't all have industrial machines. I do teehee
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Nov 27, 2012 21:41
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http://www.pfaff.com/global/20289_20292.html If you're wearing a t-shirt, look at how it's hemmed around the bottom.
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Nov 27, 2012 23:01
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The hem is folded over, so there's two layers just for the waistband. Whether they fall down at that point depends on the stretchiness of the fabric and how close you've cut it to your measurements.
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Nov 28, 2012 07:35
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gently caress's sake. They rearranged the sewing area at the hackerspace I work/play at and it's AWFUL. The total floor space has been reduced by a third. All the machines are against windowless walls, so you don't have any space to move fabric behind the machine. When you sit at the machine, you occupy the runway of space around the smaller cutting table where the fabric rolls and paper are stored. There's no way to reach the bins of fabric storage without standing on a rickety-rear end bar stool. The ironing station is now inconvenient to everything except for the desk where we do paperwork/computer things. Literally the only thing that is improved is the lighting because it's in a corner with white walls so it's a bit brighter. I want to murder people. edit: AND WHY DOES EVERYTHING SMELL LIKE PUSSY Pile of Kittens fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Nov 30, 2012 |
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Nov 30, 2012 21:46
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Yeah, do all the steps. It's asking for trouble if you want to do french seams that way. I don't know what Rev. Cheddar is talking about, as that tutorial shows curved seams. I'd try it out on some thrift store shirts first, just to get the tricky bits worked out before you go chopping up your nice shirts. Also, when they turn the seam after sewing it the first time, they say iron it tight. They loving mean it. Make sure that seam is perfectly turned and snug as hell. You don't want ANY wiggle when you sew back along the seam line to encase the raw edges. You need a good iron and patience.
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Dec 3, 2012 20:16
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How does that make it a bad idea? Just say "remember that the seams are curved and follow the instructions carefully". We all started out somewhere. I know I've made some hideous alterations, and now I do that poo poo for money.
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Dec 5, 2012 04:54
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Oh, okay! SHUT UP AND DO AS YOU'RE TOLD. You are not yet worthy of the inner secrets of alterations!
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Dec 8, 2012 01:38
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Reverend Cheddar posted:Yeah, that part you can go hog wild with if you feel like you need to get it out of the way (I don't just cause I know I'd poke myself with a pin unawares, and getting blood on something you've been working on sucks). Just make 100% sure that what you are sewing (the seam) is flat and perfectly lined up and you should be good. Blood is the easiest organic stain to get out of fabric. Little bit of hydrogen peroxide and you're back in business! Put your pins in perpendicular to the edge, not parallel, and use a ton of them (every half inch or so is good). mirthdefect: I'm having trouble visualizing what you mean by saying the front panels are wider than the back. Do you mean, when you have drawn your new seams, they don't line up length-wise any more? Or do you mean that the front is farther around than the back is? You should not mess with that particular ratio, and you should be taking off fabric an equal amount from the front and the back at the side seams.
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Dec 14, 2012 01:11
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I just cut out 546 squares and got them all laid out in a way I like. But it turns out I still need to cut 372 more. Someone hold me.
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Dec 22, 2012 02:51
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zamiel posted:I'm 5'5", my table is about 29" tall so I do have to bend over some when I'm working with it. I've tried moving it closer to me instead of in the middle of the table to no avail. You'll have to experiment with what works for you, but a higher surface makes a really big difference in back issues for a lot of people, to the point that OSHA mandates raised cutting surfaces (http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/sewing/scissorwork.html). Cutting on the floor is a slight improvement, but only slightly. Get kneepads if you decide this is the best way for you.
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Jan 9, 2013 06:38
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Charmmi posted:I'm contemplating turning some pairs of tights into thigh-high stockings to wear with a garter belt. If I cut the legs off near the top, how should I sew down the raw edge so it doesn't unravel? Serge. If you don't mind the tops being a bit stretched out, you can fold the top over and zigzag stitch around.
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Jan 10, 2013 23:52
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Shifty Pony posted:
Oh really? Would he be willing to sell?
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Jan 23, 2013 07:28
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Press between every step, baste the edge in question before beginning to work on it, and I just found this tutorial on how to make a rolled hem that isn't all hosed up: http://grainlinestudio.com/2011/08/17/tips-tricks-easy-roll-hem/
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Jan 23, 2013 10:45
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Shifty Pony posted:Probably not. You know those episodes of the antiques picking shows where they go to some random barn filled with crap that the person is unwilling to part with because they insist it will be worth tons of money way in the future? That is my dad. I will ask though. It's easier to just ship the head (the steel part) and find a table/motor/clutch combo in your own area. I'll be moving to Oakland soon and I might need to get a second Juki for my new business. I'll be making skydiving jumpsuits! I'm very excited... I've never worked with some of these materials, and the range of motion on those garments is quite different than your average jumpsuit.
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Jan 23, 2013 18:13
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| # ¿ Jun 4, 2023 20:57 |
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Is there a hole or just that line? If it's just the line, you can sort of massage around the affected area and it should reduce the puckering a bit.
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Jan 29, 2013 00:15
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