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Or drill on the grout lines, presuming it's on a stud...although the odds are never with us for that sort of thing.
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Jul 4, 2020 23:23
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anaaki posted:I want to hang some shelves on either side of a window, using that metal track system with brackets. Update:  Does it bother me that the tracks are spaced oddly? Yes. Are they mounted into the randomly spaced studs and sturdy as heck? Yes.
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Jul 5, 2020 02:49
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Can someone give me a point to point reason why this is stupid. Cross post from GBS boomer thread. Im trying to get my dads roof redone, as its leaking all the time. Hes telling the roofer to do a bunch of stupid little poo poo like... use screws on the shingles. Now I dont know much about roofs but everything on the internet says screws should only be used on metal roofs, and I have seen no hits on the internet saying to use screws on shingles. Whats the dumb logic on this?
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Jul 5, 2020 18:40
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About all I can think of is that he's worried that nails will allow the shingles to come loose?  Definitely don't want to screw shingles in though; even with nails they'll happily tear free before the nails come loose, assuming the roof deck is in good shape.Or maybe your dad just doesn't want to listen to a bunch of hammering / nailguns and thinks screws will be quieter. In which case I recommend he buy a pair of earmuffs.
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Jul 5, 2020 19:11
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I bet it's some  Screws more secure!poo poo
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Jul 5, 2020 19:23
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So literally theres no good reason to screw a shingle roof, outside of some weird personal boomer bias against nails. IF anything wouldnt it also make re-roofing in the future even more difficult?
Gaj fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Jul 5, 2020 |
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Jul 5, 2020 19:48
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Ya, removing is harder. You can use a shovel to remove nails. Screws you gotta get down there and turn each one. Seems to fit the theme of both gripes- boomer- eh, it's the next generation's problem previous owner- eh, it's the next guy's problem
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Jul 5, 2020 19:56
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Gaj posted:So literally theres no good reason to screw a shingle roof, outside of some weird personal boomer bias against nails. IF anything wouldnt it also make re-roofing in the future even more difficult? I am not a roofer, but no, I can't think of any reasons to use screws here. They're more expensive and do a worse job. Indeed, I forgot to mention another downside of screws -- if you over-torque a screw you'll just punch a hole straight through the shingle, leaving zero holding power. (overpressurized nailers can do the same thing though)
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Jul 5, 2020 20:47
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Wouldn't surprise me if the warranty on the shingles requires nails. Having not read any materials on roofing shingles.
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Jul 5, 2020 21:13
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Speaking of roofing, do nails in roof shingles really need to be tarred over? And if so, wouldn’t that ruin the look of a roof?
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Jul 5, 2020 22:37
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pmchem posted:Speaking of roofing, do nails in roof shingles really need to be tarred over? And if so, wouldn’t that ruin the look of a roof? Not sure about the first question (but I think yes). The nails are covered by the next layer of shingles so any tar would also be covered.
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Jul 5, 2020 22:39
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Gaj posted:Can someone give me a point to point reason why this is stupid. Cross post from GBS boomer thread. The only installation issue that comes up in my line of work involves installing laminate shingles on surfaces that are at or near vertical (pent roofs, valances, etc). Laminates are a 2-piece shingle that, on installations steeper than 14/12, will require dots of adhesive caulk to be applied to prevent the layers from separating and allowing the shingle face to slide down out of position. He should be way more focused on ensuring that they are using four nails per shingle and that they're nailing in the adhesive band. He would also incur a fortune in labor as it'll slow them down to a crawl, not least because as the above poster mentioned, you don't want to drive the screw too deep. With a nailgun, tyou can set the depth. It also won't prevent the shingles from being blown off. There is zero benefit to using screws on such a roof. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jul 5, 2020 |
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Jul 5, 2020 23:26
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tangy yet delightful posted:Not sure about the first question (but I think yes). The nails are covered by the next layer of shingles so any tar would also be covered. As I understand it, you tar only exposed nails (e.g. holding the ridge cap on). Nails that are covered by the next course don't need to be tarred. The tarring is because otherwise the nail hole is a path for water intrusion, but that's not an issue if the nail is covered.
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Jul 6, 2020 01:30
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an installation guide for a wall mount said to drill the stud with a 5/32 bit and then put in a lag screw with a shaft that's at least at least 7/32 wide. needless to say I can't fit the screws in. should I just use a more appropriate drill bit or is there some reason they wanted me to use a 5/32?
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Jul 6, 2020 06:44
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The attic vent fan in our house apparently kicked the bucket, and I'm trying to decide if it's worth replacing, since it's in a location that's a pain to access and swap out. We're in a single story early 1970's house where the attic isn't terribly accessible or usable for storage (the only stuff up there is insulation and wiring runs), and in a climate (the Boise area) that doesn't get super hot and there are quite a few trees shading the house. All of the HVAC ducting runs in the crawlspace under the house, and there aren't any gas appliances to possibly vent into the attic area. Looking online, I'm finding opinions varying from "you'll destroy the roof without one!" to "it costs more to run it than it saves in power bills", so I'm trying to decide if the fan is worth replacing, or if leaving it alone is an acceptable option. The attic is pretty well ventilated (2-4 vents on each side of the house), and previous owners half-assed enough repairs that I'm pretty sure the attic isn't terribly airtight, so I'm leaning towards the "leave it alone" school, since we haven't seen a noticeable change on utility bills or noticed the AC running any more than it usually does.
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Jul 6, 2020 07:41
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PainterofCrap posted:In thirty-five years of walking residential and commercial roof structures, I have never seen asphalt/fiberglass composition shingles retained by anything but nails. Never seen staples? My first house had em. And well, I had to replace a lot of shingles over the years.
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Jul 6, 2020 13:43
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C-Bangin' it 
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azflyboy posted:Looking online, I'm finding opinions varying from "you'll destroy the roof without one!" to "it costs more to run it than it saves in power bills", so I'm trying to decide if the fan is worth replacing, or if leaving it alone is an acceptable option. The attic is pretty well ventilated (2-4 vents on each side of the house), and previous owners half-assed enough repairs that I'm pretty sure the attic isn't terribly airtight, so I'm leaning towards the "leave it alone" school, since we haven't seen a noticeable change on utility bills or noticed the AC running any more than it usually does. Do you have a ridge vent and/or soffit vents, or is it just (presumably) a few gable vents? Most of the research I've seen for downplaying powered attic fans assumes you have a decent convection-based flow of air from soffits to ridge, or at least gable to ridge. Some of the research also assumes that you have sufficient insulation for the ceiling below and just let the attic do it's thing and be a hot-rear end attic. Ventilation has another key feature in humid areas, though, and that's preventing the humidity in the attic getting to the point where you have mold growth.
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Jul 6, 2020 14:01
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NotNut posted:an installation guide for a wall mount said to drill the stud with a 5/32 bit and then put in a lag screw with a shaft that's at least at least 7/32 wide. needless to say I can't fit the screws in. should I just use a more appropriate drill bit or is there some reason they wanted me to use a 5/32? This is normal: you want an undersized pilot hole so that the screw has to force the wood to the side when it gets screwed in. That causes the wood to squeeze back, helping to hold the screw in place. It does of course mean you need to use more force to drive the screw. The exact size of the pilot hole depends on what you're doing and what kind of wood you're using; in some cases you might not use a pilot hole at all, and in others you'd want the pilot hole to match the screw shaft as closely as possible, so that only the threads are interacting with the wood. Generally, the harder the wood, and the narrower the piece you're drilling into, the larger the pilot hole needs to be, to avoid splitting the wood. Stud lumber is typically quite soft and not at all narrow, so it's not in danger of splitting.
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Jul 6, 2020 14:50
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NotNut posted:an installation guide for a wall mount said to drill the stud with a 5/32 bit and then put in a lag screw with a shaft that's at least at least 7/32 wide. needless to say I can't fit the screws in. should I just use a more appropriate drill bit or is there some reason they wanted me to use a 5/32? TooMuchAbstraction posted:This is normal: you want an undersized pilot hole so that the screw has to force the wood to the side when it gets screwed in. That causes the wood to squeeze back, helping to hold the screw in place. It does of course mean you need to use more force to drive the screw. The exact size of the pilot hole depends on what you're doing and what kind of wood you're using; in some cases you might not use a pilot hole at all, and in others you'd want the pilot hole to match the screw shaft as closely as possible, so that only the threads are interacting with the wood. Generally, the harder the wood, and the narrower the piece you're drilling into, the larger the pilot hole needs to be, to avoid splitting the wood. Stud lumber is typically quite soft and not at all narrow, so it's not in danger of splitting. To add to this, OP, how are you attempting to screw in the lag? I've found an impact driver makes short work of that exact scenario, where attempting to do it by hand with a screwdriver was drat near impossible. Failing that you could use a socket/ratchet.
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Jul 6, 2020 15:53
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I have a powered speaker that has a faulty switch (used to manually assign left/right speaker placement). The fault causes sound to only come out of one speaker (or none at all). Apparently I can solder a "jumper" to permanently set the speaker placement and avoid the sound issues currently present. What kind of jumper do I need? See:  Instructions: https://jade.wtf/tech-notes/makie-cr4-switch/
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Jul 6, 2020 16:10
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A jumper can be almost anything. You can use a small piece of wire or even just solder if the points are close enough.
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Jul 6, 2020 16:19
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I see through holes. Cut the legs off a resistor and use those to jumper.
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Jul 6, 2020 16:24
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opengl128 posted:To add to this, OP, how are you attempting to screw in the lag? I've found an impact driver makes short work of that exact scenario, where attempting to do it by hand with a screwdriver was drat near impossible. Failing that you could use a socket/ratchet. I was just using a screwdriver. I guess I'll try a ratchet because I don't have an impact driver
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Jul 6, 2020 19:06
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Colostomy Bag posted:Never seen staples? My first house had em. And well, I had to replace a lot of shingles over the years. Oh. poo poo. Staples. Forgot about staples. We adjusters learned, in the mid-90s, which south Jersey developers skimped on fasteners after the first+50-MPH wind came through
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Jul 6, 2020 19:45
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My in-laws are in the process of clearing out a property that has a ~50 year old mobile home and about another 30 years worth of random house materials/appliances (father in law is a carpenter and can’t help but bring leftover stuff home) accumulated on it. I’m considering paying for a demo company to come in and remove it all for them, but I’ve never done that before and I’m wondering about what I need to look for, ask for and not to get ripped off.
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Jul 7, 2020 16:09
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PainterofCrap posted:Oh. poo poo. Staples. Forgot about staples. Staples are just friendly nails.
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Jul 7, 2020 16:13
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Very friendly, it's even in their name: Stay Please
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Jul 7, 2020 16:50
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I'm a new homeowner and our place has a lot of various things running into the house (data lines, pipes, etc) that are not properly sealed. It looks like they were at some point, but the goop just dried out and fell away after awhile. Is there a general product that I can use to seal all of these gaps, or do I need some kind of purpose-built thing for the wires, and one for the pipes, and one for the AC, and one for the dryer vent, and window frames, and on and on? Also, any recommendations for a current book about home maintenance in USDA Zone 8b would be really appreciated!
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Jul 7, 2020 17:50
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Nevets posted:Very friendly, it's even in their name: Stay Please I love this.
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Jul 7, 2020 18:10
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Corla Plankun posted:I'm a new homeowner and our place has a lot of various things running into the house (data lines, pipes, etc) that are not properly sealed. It looks like they were at some point, but the goop just dried out and fell away after awhile. Is there a general product that I can use to seal all of these gaps, or do I need some kind of purpose-built thing for the wires, and one for the pipes, and one for the AC, and one for the dryer vent, and window frames, and on and on? Confucius say: Man who put caulk in many holes fix house but lose wife.
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Jul 7, 2020 18:16
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Just get a tube of exterior caulk (and a caulk gun if you don't have one already). Do your best to clean each hole to improve adhesion, squeeze some caulk in there, use a finger to wipe it smooth, let it dry, paint it if desired.
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Jul 7, 2020 18:38
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Corla Plankun posted:I'm a new homeowner and our place has a lot of various things running into the house (data lines, pipes, etc) that are not properly sealed. It looks like they were at some point, but the goop just dried out and fell away after awhile. Is there a general product that I can use to seal all of these gaps, or do I need some kind of purpose-built thing for the wires, and one for the pipes, and one for the AC, and one for the dryer vent, and window frames, and on and on? I've always kept this book handy for when I want to do things to my house to make sure I'm not doing it too stupidly. https://amzn.to/3iERSTi
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Jul 7, 2020 18:51
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There's a special caulk for wire and vent protrusions that can act as a fireblock too when needed. I have a tube called 3M Fire Block Sealant FB136. I'm sure there are others, but it's good to use where things get hot.
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Jul 7, 2020 18:54
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Unless you're caulking a penetration through a fire-rated wall that you need to stay fire-rated I don't think those red caulk serve much purpose, but I could be wrong there. For exterior caulks and anything going in a joint that needs flexibility, you should look at the tube for its ASTM C920 class rating. This is the caulk's % compression and expansion it can handle. Here in Florida building code requires a minimum of Class 25 for exterior sealants on new construction. If the gaps aren't bigger than maybe 1/4" then just caulk them. If the gaps are any bigger then you may need to put some kind of backer in there first or go a different route.
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Jul 7, 2020 19:16
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Numlock posted:My in-laws are in the process of clearing out a property that has a ~50 year old mobile home and about another 30 years worth of random house materials/appliances (father in law is a carpenter and can’t help but bring leftover stuff home) accumulated on it. First thing I'd ask is "what will you NOT take away?" or "Is there any extra cost for removing X?". It's not exactly the same but I have a company that I contract to haul away old electronics for recycling. Two sessions prior they would take flatscreen monitors no issue and charge $10 each for CRT monitors. Last session it was $10 per monitor, regardless of style. Is the stuff building materials like wood, insulation, siding, drywall etc? You mentioned appliances, any chance of Freon fridges or similar? Any hazardous materials like paint that shouldn't go in a landfill? Depending on where you live, you probably have some waste management company that handles waste removal. Look at the company names stamped on the side of local dumpsters or the garbage trucks themselves. Then look up their website. They might have some info there or at least a phone number you could call and see what they think. They might even contract out to other companies for just this kind of thing.
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Jul 7, 2020 22:37
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Numlock posted:My in-laws are in the process of clearing out a property that has a ~50 year old mobile home and about another 30 years worth of random house materials/appliances (father in law is a carpenter and can’t help but bring leftover stuff home) accumulated on it. Let a scrapper bring by a trailer for first dibs on everything and you might get a chunk of it out of there for free.
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Jul 7, 2020 23:01
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Garage sale?
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Jul 7, 2020 23:45
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It’s all trashed by being left out in the elements. As far as I can tell it’s all old building materials like plywood, 2x4s, siding, old sinks, washing machines, cabinetry etc.
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Jul 8, 2020 02:31
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Staining and polyurethaning some butcher blocks for desk tops. Screwed one up and poly’d the underside first which caused drippage to the edges of the top - must I totally sand this down (and likely have to re-stain) to fix this? Or possible to smooth over with coats of poly and sanding in between? Cheers.
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Jul 8, 2020 05:36
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Sand it down, do not cover ontop - it will stay.
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Jul 8, 2020 10:25
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