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nitsuga posted:That’s exactly what’s done it in. That’s got to be a 1/2”-3/4” hole for reference, so maybe a dowel would be better? Another option, but pricey: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sika-10-1-fl-oz-AnchorFix-1-Anchoring-Adhesive-7116160/300934591
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May 12, 2020 21:08
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If it had been brick, I'd probably have gone with some sort of liquid steel epoxy or something. I was recommended that to attach the railing for a balcony that way and it worked great. Which is why I asked. For wood, a dowel I guess, yeah.
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May 12, 2020 21:11
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socketwrencher posted:The Planipatch is for up to 1/2" thick and though it would probably be fine I'd be inclined to go with a self-leveling product: Thanks! I got Panipatch Plus since adding it to Planipatch is supposed to make it work as a leveler. I didnt see until later that it is recommended for applying over vinyl. Think it is still worth giving a shot, or should I return it all? https://www.lowes.com/pd/MAPEI-Planipatch-Plus-1-Gallon-Indoor-Additive/3778501
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May 12, 2020 21:17
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Chichevache posted:Thanks! If you need closer to 1" thick than 1/2" I'd probably return it for the self-leveling Mapei, but it also depends on how big a hassle it is to return it.
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May 12, 2020 22:01
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I've already consigned myself to daily visits to the home improvement store... 
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May 12, 2020 22:03
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Chichevache posted:I've already consigned myself to daily visits to the home improvement store... Hah join the club, just take anything a staff person says with a grain of salt and do your own independent research.
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May 12, 2020 22:15
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socketwrencher posted:Hah join the club, just take anything a staff person says with a grain of salt and do your own independent research. They dont even know where their stock is, I know they dont actually know anything about using it.
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May 12, 2020 22:32
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Trying to replace a shattered condenser fan blade for an old rear end Fedders window AC unit. Looks like between being discontinued and reduced shipping from Covid, a direct replacement isn't really an option atm. Could I slap an undersized fan blade from an unused desk fan and just accept an under performing unit? Or should I give up and just replace the entire unit at this point? Maytag / Fedders model: m3x05f2f-b and this is the closest direct replacement I could find https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Blower-Wheel/113700880001/1110949
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May 13, 2020 14:26
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Raptor1033 posted:Trying to replace a shattered condenser fan blade for an old rear end Fedders window AC unit. Looks like between being discontinued and reduced shipping from Covid, a direct replacement isn't really an option atm. Could I slap an undersized fan blade from an unused desk fan and just accept an under performing unit? Or should I give up and just replace the entire unit at this point? If it fits the shaft, is balanced properly, and doesn't hit the surrounding housing, what do you have to lose? Biggest concern is that it won't move enough air to prevent the coil from freezing over, which should be pretty obvious.
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May 13, 2020 15:37
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Any advice about getting two completely different opinions on how to solve a settling foundation issue? Specifically, the house was built in the mid 1970's, and there's some vertical cracks in the foundation, two of which extend into the footings, and are noticeably wider than the hairline cracks I'm used to seeing in concrete. For whatever it's worth, all the floors, walls, windows, doors, etc.. appear to be level. We got an estimate yesterday from a foundation repair company for an $8k fix, and then another estimate today from a concrete and masonry company that was basically "caulk the gaps, add dirt to keep water away from the foundation, and install gutters" for about $1k. I'm trying to get a 3rd opinion, but I'm trying to figure out how to reconcile two completely reasonable sounding explanations from reputable companies that are this drastically different in scope.
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May 14, 2020 01:00
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What is your problem specifically, other than aesthetics? A structural engineer can come out and tell you what you need to do definitively. If the damage isn't severe and you just need it to not get appreciably worse over the next 10 years the $1k solution is fine, if the problem is a real problem, then the $1k solution is just burning money.
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May 14, 2020 01:46
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I second the hire a structural engineer opinion. I would probably give them zero of the info about what the other companies told you.
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May 14, 2020 02:34
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Thanks. I emailed a couple of structural engineering firms to see what they'd charge for an assessment. I don't really care about the aesthetics, so it's more a case of making sure this won't get substantially worse in the next few years so we don't get a nasty surprise when we try and sell the place.
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May 14, 2020 03:48
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Whirlpool washer WTW5600sQ0, type 111. Neither hot nor cold water pumps, nothing leaks and the pipes aren't damaged, but the laundry just never gets wet. Whirlpool charges $20 for the repair manual, is there a youtube guide or something I could check out?
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May 14, 2020 06:23
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https://www.partselect.com/Models/WTW5600SQ0/ Google what you need and often it comes up.
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May 14, 2020 06:30
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When that happened to me it was because the solenoids that control the water flow were calcified. Relatively inexpensive fix as those things go.
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May 14, 2020 13:23
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H110Hawk posted:https://www.partselect.com/Models/WTW5600SQ0/ I've got that PDF, it's the user manual. The repair guide is something else. edit- I'm looking through the exploded diagrams above that PDF, which I now realize is probably the actual stuff you were referring to. thank you. Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:When that happened to me it was because the solenoids that control the water flow were calcified. Relatively inexpensive fix as those things go. Sweet, can I leave them soaking in a citric acid solution to un-calcify them or is this a "sixy cents of replacement parts" deal? PHIZ KALIFA fucked around with this message at 13:52 on May 14, 2020 |
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May 14, 2020 13:38
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Since it’s both sides it could be the controller board for the solenoids. Maybe there’s a way to test the solenoids directly if you know the current required?
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May 14, 2020 14:04
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PHIZ KALIFA posted:I've got that PDF, it's the user manual. The repair guide is something else. Yeah those diagrams seemed like a very close approximation, I saw explosions and copy/pasted as an example. Sometimes it takes a bit of fiddling but often those parts sites have what you need to feel confident buying their parts. Otherwise YouTube search make model problem and watch some videos, sometimes you find a clue in them and bonus someone else shows you exactly how to tear it down.
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May 14, 2020 15:28
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I'm redoing an office in our house and down to finishing the closet. The closet opening is 48" wide by 72" high. I'm really struggling to find any door options for this for that height. Anyone have any suggestions? I don't really care if it's bifold, sliding or whatever, just looking for a good option. I figured I could buy a solid core door and chop some off the top and bottom but most seem to have a warning not to do this for several inches, just for trimming to fit.
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May 15, 2020 13:57
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Sup Fix-it-Fast I have a plumbing stack vent boot that's beat to poo poo, and I'd like to avoid pulling up shingles and redoing flashing as I figure I'm going to screw things up. My first attempt at fixing was a perm-a-boot (https://permaboot.co/) but my vent pipe is longer than it's designed for so the top cap portion doesn't touch the bottom part. I'm still getting some mild dripping when it rains. Like maybe 2-3 tablespoons worth during a hard rain. Second thought is to remove the perma-boot I put on and use something like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/IPS-5-75-in-x-5-75-in-PVC-Base-Vent-Pipe-Flashing-with-Adjustable-Rubber-Collar-in-Black-81720/206792286 Option 3 is to cut down the 3" pipe so that the perm-a boot can be installed properly if I keep getting water intrusion any other thoughts aside from pull up the flashing / call a guy?
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May 15, 2020 14:24
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Didn't get traction in the plumbing thread so I hope y'all don't mind a cross-post: I'm trying to replace a terlet. The rough in (wall to bolt) measures at 13" on one side, and at 13.75" on the other. I had initially figured it was 14" when I measured the 13.75" one and didn't measure the other and started looking for 14" toilets. But now that I measured the other bolt at 13" it makes me wonder. It's not visibly askew but that obviously means it probably is. This certainly wouldn't be the first time that things didn't turn out to be at right angles in our house. The existing toilet seems to be made for 12" rough-in, based on the fact that the gap between the tank and the wall is pretty wide - about 2 inches. My other clue is that the bottom of the bowl is stamped 3027. When I google "American Standard 3027" the only one I find is this 12 incher: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/6603/American-Standard-Compact-3027-012.html However, that linked one is listed as 3027.012, which makes it sound like there might have also existed a 3027.014 - I can't find it though, if it ever did exist. Anyway the tip of the existing toilet's bowl is about 30" from the wall, and the above link says it should be 27.5", which checks out - that means the gap behind the tank should be 0.5", but is 2" instead. Anyway, the tank-wall gap being exactly only 2" (or even just under 2") makes me think that a 14" rough-in toilet won't fit - because if I'm correct that the existing toilet was made for 12", then if I get a similar 14" one I'm basically subtracting 2 inches from that gap, which puts me touching the wall. So am I correct in my conclusion that we should get a 12" rough-in toilet anyway and just allow the gap to exist?
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May 15, 2020 15:08
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Well, and this is bearing in mind I know nothing about installing toilets, looking at the spec sheet for what seems to be a similar current 14" model, it seems quite adamant that 14" is the minimum bolt to wall distance, but it also suggests you'd have 1/16" to spare if your closest bolt is indeed exactly 13" (as opposed to the 1 and 1/16" it seems to be designed to have). If your bolts are truly at 13-or-so inches and they don't do a 13" then yeah it sounds like your options are a) push your luck with the 14" or b) deal with the extra stick-out of the 12". Which, looking at the spec sheet for the 12" should be 3/4" in ideal position.
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May 15, 2020 15:53
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Jaded Burnout posted:Well, and this is bearing in mind I know nothing about installing toilets, looking at the spec sheet for what seems to be a similar current 14" model, it seems quite adamant that 14" is the minimum bolt to wall distance, but it also suggests you'd have 1/16" to spare if your closest bolt is indeed exactly 13" (as opposed to the 1 and 1/16" it seems to be designed to have). Yeah this all lines up with the current toilet's gap, which is 2" gap instead of 3/4", and the bolts are also 1" to 1.75" farther out than they're supposed to be I don't feel comfortable with a mere 1/16" tolerance with the 14" model so I think I will stick with 12. Thanks for the sanity check.
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May 15, 2020 16:02
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alnilam posted:Yeah this all lines up with the current toilet's gap, which is 2" gap instead of 3/4", and the bolts are also 1" to 1.75" farther out than they're supposed to be Might look into offset flanges- it may be a bit of work to fit one on to the existing drain pipe but they're designed for your situation: https://www.oatey.com/products/oatey-abs-offset-closet-flange-stainless-steel-ring-663581197
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May 15, 2020 16:11
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tater_salad posted:Second thought is to remove the perma-boot I put on and use something like this Just do this. Put a healthy amount of roof cement on the old boot rubber (special attention near the pipe protrusion), and carefully slide this new collar down the pipe over top it and smush it into place. For bonus points, you can apply a thin amount of the cement around where the pipe and boot meet. Done. Buy some extras and do all your pipe boots while you're up on the roof, since they tend to crack and harden in the sun. That one you linked is nice, because it can be adapted to any common size vent pipe (up to 3"). This was one of the first things I did in my new house, and it stopped the leaks.
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May 15, 2020 16:18
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Frohike999 posted:I'm redoing an office in our house and down to finishing the closet. The closet opening is 48" wide by 72" high. I'm really struggling to find any door options for this for that height. Anyone have any suggestions? I don't really care if it's bifold, sliding or whatever, just looking for a good option. I figured I could buy a solid core door and chop some off the top and bottom but most seem to have a warning not to do this for several inches, just for trimming to fit. Two solid 24" doors cut down from the top & bottom is really your only option. Hollow-cores have a wood slug at the top & bottom for trimming, but they're only 2-3" high at the most.
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May 15, 2020 16:25
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B-Nasty posted:Just do this. The poo poo in a tube.. I think I'm almost out trying to get the permaboot to work but I'll grab another tube and the rubber boot tomorrow when I run to homelowepot tomorrow on my weekly run with a mask and gloves. all my other vents are up top of a 2 story I will inspect them when I get up there but I think I need a second / longer ladder. to get up there.
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May 15, 2020 16:40
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tater_salad posted:The poo poo in a tube.. I like the 'Roofers Choice 15', which comes in a caulking tube, or larger pail sizes. I like to bring multiple tubes with me and scan the roof for nails popping through the shingles and other potential issues (20 year old roof), and dollop those while I'm up there. If you can learn to think like water and understand where the water is supposed to be able to run vs where it shouldn't, you can get most roof leaks pretty easily.
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May 15, 2020 17:21
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yeah that's the tube I'm using.. I may grab 1-2 kuz you can never have enough calk to play with. mostly my roof is in good shape.. I feel like when this place was re-roofed 5-10 years ago the roofers just reused the vent boot kuz they didn't have one for a 3" in the truck...
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May 15, 2020 17:52
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PainterofCrap posted:Two solid 24" doors cut down from the top & bottom is really your only option. Hollow-cores have a wood slug at the top & bottom for trimming, but they're only 2-3" high at the most. I wouldn't waste money on a solid door. Just cut a hollow-core door and put in a wood block https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2011/09/18/how-to-trim-a-hollow-core-door-to-height
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May 15, 2020 18:22
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I feel like I'm just having a brain fart, but I've been googling for like half an hour and I'm not really getting anywhere. Is there some kind of special name for a tripod with a pulley on the underside of it so that you can lift heavy crap? I've seen ones that are for like hunting/deer purposes, which I might just end up buying anyway but they don't seem quite right. It feels like just a thing for connecting 3 i-beams and hoisting things up should be dirt cheap, seeing as you can get 3 ton jackstands for like 20 bucks, but whenever I look at any of them, the prices are like loving 2000 dollars for ones that are specifically for lifting cargo instead of deer corpses. Edit: Yes, I realize I could theoretically just do this with a ladder, but a proper hook attachment point would be nice. Edit2: Use case is light engine-hoisting (motorcycle) and similar type of work. Weight range should be 100-500 lbs, don't need much more than that. DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 02:32 on May 16, 2020 |
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May 16, 2020 02:30
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Engine hoist?
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May 16, 2020 02:50
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Block and tackle? Tripod hoist?
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May 16, 2020 02:59
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socketwrencher posted:If you need closer to 1" thick than 1/2" I'd probably return it for the self-leveling Mapei, but it also depends on how big a hassle it is to return it. This worked like a charm. The self-leveler is amazing, but apparently I need more than 50 pounds. I'm gonna finish filling the spots on sunday. However, I have a dilemma. I have an 82" by 94" section of subfloor that has residual grooves and bumps of grout from the tile. I used acrylic caulk to seal all the edges and I am debating trying to use self-leveler across the whole area, or just skating by with a slightly uneven subfloor. Since I'm doing laminate with an underlayment, will the bulging be an issue, or can I slack? If I need to flatten it, should I try smoothing it down (with an angle grinder and diamond grinding wheel  ) or try pouring an extremely thin layer of self-leveler to smooth it out?Terrible pictures with no real sense of scale:   
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May 16, 2020 05:34
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Chichevache posted:This worked like a charm. The self-leveler is amazing, but apparently I need more than 50 pounds. I'm gonna finish filling the spots on sunday. However, I have a dilemma.
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May 16, 2020 12:14
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Chichevache posted:This worked like a charm. The self-leveler is amazing, but apparently I need more than 50 pounds. I'm gonna finish filling the spots on sunday. However, I have a dilemma. Yeah it's hard to tell exactly the size of those bumps and grooves, but I'd lean towards smoothing with a grinder/diamond wheel and more leveler. 82" x 94" isn't that large. The dust the grinder will kick off is hellacious. You could always lay some laminate without grinding and more leveling and see how it goes.
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May 16, 2020 18:07
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socketwrencher posted:Yeah it's hard to tell exactly the size of those bumps and grooves, but I'd lean towards smoothing with a grinder/diamond wheel and more leveler. 82" x 94" isn't that large. My issue with more leveler is that I don't think I can pour it thin enough to blend with the actually level floor it connects too. The bumps and grooves are the thickness of whatever god awful caulk they attached all the tile with. Small enough that I can use my standard tape measure, but large enough for me notice.
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May 16, 2020 19:59
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I'm fixing up my new place and need to patch some large sections of drywall in the garage. There's some sections of the drywall that were removed as part of rodent removal from before I bought the place that weren't fixed by the PO before I moved in. They ripped out from the floor to about 48" up for about a 10' run, conveniently right behind the water heater and furnace. There's enough access to get to the studs for screws luckily, but I'll have to use shorter than normal pieces because of the awkward access. The removed sections were double layered 5/8" drywall (soundproofing to adjacent condos) and I'm trying to figure out how best to do the replacement. Are double layers typically put up one layer at a time, or do you put them up simultaneously? If one layer at a time, do you stagger the edges so the seams don't line up? If so, do you need to tape in between layers? What's the target screw length into the studs behind the drywall? I vaguely remember reading to shoot for 5/8" into the studs, so 1-1/4' for a single layer or ~2" for the double?
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May 16, 2020 22:55
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Chichevache posted:My issue with more leveler is that I don't think I can pour it thin enough to blend with the actually level floor it connects too. The leveler in your pic looks like it was troweled on, it doesn't look like it self-leveled much at all. It should pour like thick paint, and be able to be easily spread at the margins with something like a wide drywall knife to a feather-edge. Most levelers also end up with a somewhat surprisingly smooth to the touch finish. If you have any left, you might mix up a small batch with more water than you used before and see how it goes. Maybe you're okay as is. I don't think so, but it won't hurt to lay flooring and check before grinding or further leveling. You don't have to cut any of the flooring, just click it together over most of that area and see how it lays. Let it acclimate for several days before laying it down, and give it a few more days to settle after before making a determination.
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May 16, 2020 23:35
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