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Here's a quick question. I want to heat up small bits of lexan with a microtorch to bend them a bit. Problem is, every time I get them hot enough to bend, bubbles also form. Is there anyway to heat it up without bubbles forming? I've tried lower temperatures but it either doesn't heat it up enough to melt or it still creates bubbles. 
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Jan 12, 2009 04:12
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Richard Noggin posted:Can you do it in an oven? I think the direct heat is your problem.
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Jan 12, 2009 04:45
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FordCQC posted:I've got a toilet that keeps running for up to 5 minutes or more. Easy to stop it running by lifting the floater out of the water a bit, but what's the long-term or permanent solution for this?
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Jan 17, 2009 12:55
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So my roommate and I were just inspecting an apartment we're moving into and there are 2 dryer exhaust ducts. One on the floor where you would expect it to be and one that is a vertical pipe that goes into the ceiling. It's a second (top) floor apartment and I'm assuming they're both dryer exhausts because they're next to each other and both have lint remains on them. So my question is were vertical exhausts ever a thing? Is it maybe something else that some previous tenant used as an exhaust? I'm not going to use it and probably cap it off to avoid any back draft but I'm just curious what the hell it's for.
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Sep 1, 2013 05:20
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Alright, so I'm back with more dryer ventilation related questions. To summarize my previous post: I moved into a new apartment and there are 2 dryer exhaust vents to hook my dryer up to. One is a vertical shaft, the other is your standard hole on the wall. I chose to use the standard hole on the wall because that's what I've always used and I figure it's safer. Well today I tried my first load of laundry and it takes 3 whole cycles to actually dry a load. I went outside to try and find which exhaust vent is ours but while the dryer was running none of the vents had any noticeable air flow. So I now suspect the exhaust vents are just terribly clogged beyond hope which then led to the vertical exhaust being installed. So being curious, I pulled out a mirror and a flashlight to look up the vertical exhaust. At the top all I can see is wood, which means it is venting straight into the attack.  So at this point I'm wondering what to do. I either have to find a way to clear out the clogged vent, or use a vent that is just dumping moisture and lint into the attic. I just discovered this and haven't complained to the complex yet but honestly I don't think they'll do anything about it and even if they did it would just be a half assed fix like the vertical vent installation. So I'm looking for help on what I can do to fix the issue.
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Sep 16, 2013 05:13
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Insane Totoro posted:Okay let's assume that I actually want to purchase a new washer and dryer.... Any recommendations? My mom and dad bought top of the line Samsungs and hooooooly poo poo they are amazing. She raves about them every chance she gets. One cool thing I know they do is if you put something big like a quilt or a sleeping bag in it it automagically spreads it out all over the inside of the drum to evenly dry it.
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Oct 13, 2013 02:59
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I keep all my keys on a little key ring on my swiss army knife 
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Oct 13, 2013 17:46
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I'd be scared of drilling down into something that thin. If you're off center even slightly then it could drill through one side or the other. A better option would be to just drill through it perpendicularly and then put a ring through that hole. e: like this 
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Jan 26, 2015 01:45
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I'm working on reupholstering a chair, and on top of the springs is some fabric with little wires running through it. I've googled it extensively but all I can find is some other people finding similar material (sometimes burlap instead of fabric) used in automobiles. They don't seem to know what to call it either. This is what the backside looks like. It's just thin little wires that run across the chairs springs side to side, and terminates at some cotton cord. 
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Feb 14, 2015 06:28
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Motronic posted:The material I've often seen used for that is generally called "ticking". It's like a heavy denim, and was originally used to keep the pokey parts of feathers inside of feather/down pillows and cushions. It doesn't much matter what you use as long as it's heavy since it's just there as a spring form and to keep the form in place. This is awesome. Thank you!
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Feb 15, 2015 18:47
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Anyone know where I should ask fellow goons about issues with a 2 stroke tiller engine? It'll work fine for a little while and then it seems to get bogged down, for lack of a better term. I can rev it and it sounds like it's not revving as high, and it doesn't engage the transmission much/at all. Also when I let off the gas, it'll sometimes stall out when idling. My initial thought was maybe the clutch wasn't grabbing when it was revving, but that doesn't explain the engine dying when idling. I took it apart and I can freely spin the transmission so it doesn't seem like that's locked up and stalling the engine, which was the problem it had when I bought it second hand. Could it be a carburetor issue? I've never dealt with a carburated engine before so this is all new to me. e: It's an older model Mantis 7222 SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 03:56 on May 18, 2019 |
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May 18, 2019 03:53
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A new carb is $12 so I bought one just because. I got the tiller so cheap that I can replace basically everything and still come out ahead 
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May 18, 2019 04:14
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H110Hawk posted:If roadkill and this thread taught me anything add/clean your fuel filter, drain and clean your tank, and carb cleaner will start any-thing any-time any-where. Including a fire. I inspected the fuel filter and it seems clean, and the tank is clean as far as I can tell. The new carb I ordered also includes a new fuel filter just in case. I'll pick up some carb cleaner tomorrow and run some of that through it, or however you use it.
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May 18, 2019 04:21
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I looked for a small engine thread and couldn't find one either. So update: I swapped out the carburetor with the new one I got as well as the seals, lines, and fuel filter. Now it's really difficult to start, and when I do it quickly revs higher and then stalls out. I made sure my air intake for the tank wasn't blocked, and it's not, but now I'm at a loss. It's soaking full of, and soaking in, engine and carb cleaner right now. My other thought is maybe the spark plug cap isn't getting a good connection, although I don't think that would explain the revving. I've tried adjusting the new carburetor with no luck. It only performs worse (won't start at all) after I mess with the adjustment screws. e: To add more detail, here's what it's doing: First I'll pull the choke out to allow maximum air in. Pull the cord, and it will turn over for a few turns then cut off. Next I close the choke and pull the cord again. Now it'll start up at a relatively low idle, but then rev up over the next second or two and then finally it stalls out. No amount of throttle application stops it from stalling out. Then I start back at opening the choke again. If I don't open the choke and run it briefly, I won't be able to start it again with the choke closed. e2: I've also completely removed the drive shaft for the transmission so there is 0 load on the clutch and that can't be causing the stall out. e3: Turns out it does keep running if you rev it high enough. I'm pretty convinced it's a fuel supply problem but I'm not sure where. I doubt there's a clog in the carburetor because it's literally brand new out of the box. But maybe? Adjusting the low limit screw doesn't seem to have almost any effect on operation. Here's a video of me running it with the choke open, then closed, then open, then closed while revving it to keep it going. When I let go of the throttle completely is when it stalls. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe0aRElI-Mk There's a guy nearby that fixes small engines so I might give him a call on Tuesday and see if he can take a look at it since I am apparently incapable of fixing this thing. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 22:17 on May 19, 2019 |
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May 19, 2019 20:06
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It's a Chinese one. I guess at this point a total teardown is what needs to happen but I've heard there's like a million small pieces in these things.
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May 20, 2019 17:13
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Maybe I got the terms mixed up but when I pull the plunger out it opens the ~1/2" orifice and allows all the air in, where as when I push the plunger in, a plate slides over the opening, closing off the air flow.
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May 20, 2019 21:19
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Freon isn't the problem since it's freezing up. It's almost certainly a vent blockage. Either intake or output. Check them all for airflow while it's running.
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May 22, 2019 22:50
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Well I got my tiller engine running again. Thanks everyone! I bought a can of carb/choke cleaner and disassembled and cleaned the original carburetor as best as I knew how, swapped out the fuel bulb with a new one while I was at it, and put it all back together. The drat thing wouldn't even start after that, and out of sheer frustration I started yanking on the starter cord as hard as I could. Well my pure rage was enough to jump start it and after letting it idle for a few minutes it seems to be good to go now. Hopefully whatever went wrong doesn't happen again for a long while.
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May 25, 2019 02:15
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Motherfuckerrrrr my tiller is broken again (still). Turns out it's not the carburetor at all but the transmission. When it heats up it locks up and that's what's bogging the engine down. It locks up the drive shaft so it's just grinding away on the clutch, which is probably turbo hosed now. While loving with it the starter cord also broke, but I already replaced that with a nylon rope. I will get this thing working 
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May 25, 2019 23:51
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Well I learned something new. Whenever my system runs low on coolant it just gets warm, which seemed intuitive.
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May 28, 2019 16:39
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Have you tried tile nippers/nibblers? I'm pretty sure that's the right tool for this job.
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Jul 13, 2019 03:59
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It looks good though! I know it's easy to say "Well I won't see it so there's no point" but the point is doing it the right way. Once you start making concessions like that, it's a slippery slope to becoming "that" PO that has everything in their home done incorrectly. Speaking of, my home has a lot of that kind of half assed work, but while I was replacing an old and broken ceiling heater with a bathroom vent fan last weekend, I realized the ceiling heater was installed not only correctly but very well. It was secured to studs with good hardware, the wires were not only nutted but also twisted together, the finish work on the ceiling was clean, etc. It's the first time I felt bad about tearing out something a PO did. My ownership goal is to have my work be that quality and make future owners think twice about touching my work. (they won't because it will be the cheapest contractor from craigslist doing it)
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Jul 13, 2019 17:56
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:As someone with a slightly uneven floor, it would undoubtably be easier with bigger tiles. But this is what the wife wanted. Wouldn't the smaller tile be easier for an uneven floor because it's able to spread the uneveness over more tiles, thus making the height difference between individual tiles less overall?
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Jul 14, 2019 02:03
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I think you can grout that up without issue. Just make sure you get the right grout (sanded or unsanded) because one is for small crevices and the other is for more substantial gaps like you have, but I forget which one is which.
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Aug 16, 2019 03:20
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FogHelmut posted:My neighbor's vacation home burned down in the Paradise fire last year. He recently went back there to see what he could salvage. The only thing left was his Wilton bench vise. Electrolysis might help, but it requires line of sight from the anode/electrode to remove rust so stuff on the inside won't come off probably. E: also take a heatgun or torch to it. That'll expand the metal and when it contracts it may break some of the rust or whatever is holding it together. It'll also help suck the kroil in deeper. I've gotten a lot of stuck guns apart that way. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Aug 16, 2019 |
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Aug 16, 2019 16:50
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:I am trying to properly secure my back yard. That is: I am trying to make it so that anybody trying to do anything will have to at least earn it a little bit. I got ABUS padlocks with ball bearings keyed to my house key. So at least it's a little less trivial to pick. However, now it would be quicker to just pop out the screws holding up the doors. Who are you specifically worried about getting into your backyard? If anyone is a serious criminal they're going to break into your house for "the good stuff", where as criminals of opportunity (homeless, meth heads, kids) aren't going to both trying to open an already locked gate. They certainly won't spend the time to unscrew hinges. As the other poster said, unless you're doing this as a personal challenge (which I totally understand) then it's totally overkill and futile. A ladder, sawzall, or axe is going to defeat basically anything you can come up with. Back to your question though, if you're worried about hinges, you could replace the screws with carriage bolts which are both stronger, and can't be removed from the front. If the hinge pins can be popped out though, you'll need new security hinges anyway. FWIW: I live in an up-and-coming part of town near a major thoroughfare and we get the occasional homeless person riding a bike through our neighborhood and under-supervised kids up and down the street and I have not had a single person come into my back yard which has unlocked chain link gates that are only waist height. I know this for a fact because I have cameras setup. Although I did have a neighbors dog that would occasionally jump the back fence and enjoy my yard. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Aug 17, 2019 |
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Aug 17, 2019 20:03
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It was just the fence behind my shed so I don't have any videos of the action but I caught it one day and it actually was climbing the chainlink fence and then squeezing between the gaps of the wood fence that runs parallel to it. I've since filled the gap with some additional fence panels I cut and stuck to the side of the existing wood fence. I didn't mind the dog enjoying my yard but it kept making GBS threads everywhere Here's a picture of the criminal trespasser: 
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Aug 17, 2019 20:32
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Just because you were raised in a rich neighborhood doesn't mean you can afford to live in one when you're an adult. Don't stigmatize someone for buying a house and living within their means under the guise that they're an evil gentrifier.
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Aug 18, 2019 00:00
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H110Hawk posted:Careful taking the nextdoor.com-style ranting seriously. Lookup actual crime stats in your area. Around here we get a lot of "brown person caught walking" posts and it's nothing but casual racism. As for curtain rod question: Take a metal coat hanger and cut a straight section about 6" long. Make one of your cuts at an angle so that the end is pointy. Then use this piece of coat hanger with a hammer and you can stab through the wall and find studs and such with minimal damage. If you don't have any metal coat hangars, a thin nail would also work. Try checking a few inches above and out from where you usually do. Because of all the support they've put up around the window, you may need to hang the bar supports a bit higher and wider than you would think. Also, if you can find the wood support behind the sheetrock you could put screws directly into it and that would be insanely strong. No baby could rip that poo poo out of the wall.
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Aug 18, 2019 01:26
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I've never heard of caulking the bottom of baseboards. Is that for all flooring? I've got old wood floors and there is a big gap between the baseboards and floor where there isn't quarter toe installed (which also isn't caulked)
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Aug 19, 2019 21:13
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Discussion Quorum posted:Thanks for the responses. I considered command hooks and tension rods, but the windows are 72"x84" so weight/sagging is a concern in addition to the aforementioned small child (which is not an issue now since he's not even crawling, but could be grabbing/pulling up by the time we move out). In theory you should be able to drill through anything. Is there masonry behind it? You might need to pick up a masonry bit for your drill
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Aug 20, 2019 23:44
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Sounds like a bad capacitor to me too.
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Sep 17, 2019 03:57
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That sounds rough. I wish you a quick and inexpensive fix. Let us know how it turns out.
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Sep 17, 2019 04:10
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Drill it out with a spade bit so it's perfectly circular, get a matching sized dowel for the hole, miter it to length and glue it in the hole. Once the glue has dried, drill a smaller hole in the dowel insert for the door to latch into, and you should have a fresh area to put a new hole into for your screw.
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Sep 18, 2019 22:57
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The number of hardware stores that do rekeying is low in my experience. I wasn't able to find one and locksmiths wanted too much so I bought. Rekeying kit off eBay and did all my locks myself. It wasn't too difficult.
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Sep 30, 2019 13:56
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Also if you attempt to rekey yourself and gently caress up a spring, you can just leave that pin out of the lock completely. Missing one pin is not a big deal because besides having two redundant locks(handle and deadbolt) nobody is going to be picking the lock to your house. They'll just kick the door in. The locks are just to keep honest people honest.
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Sep 30, 2019 17:26
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When I went to (one of a few local) Lowe's they didn't have anyone that knew how to rekey locks and instead the guy started to try and sell me an alarm system as an alternative to rekeying after buying a home.
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Sep 30, 2019 20:15
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melon cat posted:Any suggestions for quickly and cheaply filling in this cracked window? It's more than a crack. Has a good gap between shards. We're getting this window completely replaced but it can't be done until January, and until then it'd be nice for this room not have this room leak out all the heat and turn into an igloo. Clear silicone caulk is my first thought.
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Oct 1, 2019 17:23
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Rafters, rafters ties, or joists? If truly rafters you're probably fine. If rafter ties or joists I'd like to know their total span. There are entire tables where you can look up the live load rating of these things depending on their thickness, span, and support. E: you're probably fine regardless. Wood is strong yo. I put up 12' 2x8" rafter ties in my garage and I was hanging on them without any signs of distress, and they were lag bolted into like 80 year old wood. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Oct 2, 2019 |
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Oct 2, 2019 20:40
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melon cat posted:Funny that you mention that. Because as I was mounting up the new mailbox the Postman (who also owns a home in my neighbourhood) came by and said, "Make sure you drill into the brick, not the mortar!" Our previous home was a ~15 year old build and if I drilled into the "builder quality" brick it would easily crack. The bricks on the newer home felt like dense styrofoam. The terrifying thing is that the current "best practice and material" to use on a build seems to change on a month to month basis based on how the last new material and method worked. So we don't have a long period of time to see how different things age and handle different environments before making changes for the next time.
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Oct 3, 2019 20:42
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