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Sephiroth_IRA posted:I'm going to install my Nest thermostat at my new house. It's an older place and I have a lot more wires this time. There's no gas, just electric ac and heat. Here's what I have atm. Just to be clear, green isn't ground in low-voltage thermostat systems. It's typically used for the fan signal. If you tell me what kind of equipment (make/model) or provide some pictures of the other end of your thermostat wire I can tell you what should be what.
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Nov 26, 2014 02:36
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Dragyn posted:Not disregarding this possibility, but I was just digging through to documentation, now that I have the model number for the aquastat which is where the indicator light is. Following the troubleshooting diagram, it indicates that two blinks indicates a bad sensor, or a bad connection to it. You're sort of talking about two things here. If the aquastat is blinking double, that indicates a faulty temp sensor. Solve that problem first, it's an easy replacement. If that doesn't fix your problem, follow the troubleshooting steps in the buderus guide. Flaky flame sensors are one likely culprit, yes. If you're not comfortable doing that, call a tech. Honestly, if you haven't had the boiler serviced you really should.
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Dec 3, 2014 05:29
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melon cat posted:Got a question about our office building's thermostat dials. I'm 99% sure that the ones we have are fake, placebo fixtures (not uncommon in many offices since the real controls are at a singular HVAC panel). Because there's one fixture every ~20 feet, and how the heck can you control a furnace's temperature if there are 8 dials on the same floor, each with with a different setting. No, your hunch isn't correct. They're networked thermostats that connect back to a BAS (building automation system). There's probably a network closet somewhere that has some HVAC gear in it too. If they were placebos nobody would have bothered running the cable or springing for johnson-branded wall boxes. Multiple thermostats on a floor are not uncommon, as even open areas can be zoned so that people by a window aren't burning up while people more internal to the building are cold. If you're not feeling any temperature change, that could be for a few reasons: - One of the thermostats (if there are multiple in an open area) can be set as the "master" stat, and only its setpoint adjustment will be considered. The control system can average all of the stats in the room to determine current temperature. - Your facilities guy could have the setpoint adjustment really constrained, for example that entire slider could move the setpoint from 70 to 71 degrees. That's programmable. - Even better/worse, your facilities guy could just have the thermostats overridden with a schedule or manual override from the central control and the signals from that thermostat are being disregarded. - Your hvac system could be fubared in some other way. So the good news is that it's not fake. The bad news is that the central controller may not care what it's saying to the network, or the equipment it's controlling may be inoperable for some reason..
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Feb 19, 2016 05:07
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http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/publications/dca6 I just did this same thing. This guide was super helpful as a best practice sort of guide. Also check your city/county to see if they have any stricter requirements, load ratings, etc.
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Aug 9, 2016 18:19
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wesleywillis posted:Word..... So would it be shoved all the way to the bottom and then left there, with (whatever desired length) sticking out of the ground? Or if I wanted say, 2 feet of stick up, I shove it in far enough that it'll stay steady and reasonably level? Like I mean I wouldn't use a 3 foot piece of tube if I wanted to have the top of the post 2 feet above ground, I'd use minimum of four? Or five feet? The answer is kind of...it depends. The sonotube lets you form up a strong column of concrete that extends up from whatever your underground footing surface is up to the ground level, where you can tie it into your fencepost or deck post or whatever. The footing you need depends on what you are doing. Fence? Probably no footing other then the diameter of the tube, put the tube down past whatever your local frostline is/your local building code says. If you're building a deck, you have to calculate the load that the deck post is responsible for, then make a big enough footing at the bottom to distribute that many pounds over many square inches. Building code tells you max PSI (pounds per square inch) depending on what type of soil you're building on top of. You can use something like http://www.bigfootsystems.com/include/photos.htm (ignore the janky website and just look at the pictures) for a premade footer diameter that you can pour all at once with your sonotube. Other options include framing out a small concrete pad, pouring that, then using rebar to tie in the vertical column, or constructing a framing + tube monstrosity that you can fill all at once. I wouldn't recommend bringing a sonotube two feet above ground, unless you're doing big stuff like commercial light poles or something else specialized. Do you have something you're thinking about or just curious about the tubes?
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Feb 18, 2018 21:47
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Does it freeze where you are?
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Feb 2, 2019 23:37
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Where does your service enter the house? Is there a water meter under those stairs? Where is your mechanical room (boiler/water heater/ etc.)
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Mar 14, 2019 19:19
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Are you talking about these posts. They don't seem diy, so I'm guessing not but couldn't find anything else. It. Do you have a link or picture?
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May 10, 2019 13:16
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Is the carb oem branded, or one of those cheap Chinese replacements from Amazon? I have had a Chinese replacement come with significant grit inside it causing similar issues. After cleaning it's been great though.
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May 20, 2019 15:23
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literally this big posted:Hey thread, I have a small lighting issue that I'm hoping y'all can help me with. Did you by chance replace incandescent light bulbs with LEDs?
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Jul 17, 2019 20:10
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LED bulbs in motion sensors sometimes have this problem. Some sensor designs constantly leak current through the load. When it's an incandescent bulb it isn't enough to make the bulb actually light up. It can be enough to keep LED bulbs on though.
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Jul 18, 2019 12:04
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I work for a dimmer company. LED light bulbs are a giant poo poo show. They use many different electrical designs that change the way a bulb electrically "looks" to dimmers or other devices trying to control their output. They are also significantly more sensitive to voltage and other line disturbances than an incandescent. The answer to "does it work with LEDs" is usually either "none" or "some". I can guarantee that any led-compatible product can be paired with an LED that is so terrible that the product will fail to function appropriately.
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Jul 18, 2019 14:57
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Do you have any pictures because this makes no sense to me.
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Feb 4, 2020 21:35
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I don't remember what you're drilling, but there is no way to make hand drilling through concrete not suck. I used to be on the end of a Hilti hammer drill with a 4" cutter on it to make holes for septic pipes. I am pretty sure that had lasting effects. Make sure you are drilling straight. In wood you can get away with wallowing the hole a little, but concrete isnt here for that bullshit, and it'll stress the drill up to and past the breaking point. Also wear a pair of leather gloves, it's better than nothing.
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Mar 30, 2020 04:06
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Charles posted:They claimed they were repairing an oil tank. They're nowhere near the oil tank. Maybe it was a line. Maybe there was contaminated soil. Who knows. Why are you interested but not interested enough that you couldn't take a real video?
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Apr 28, 2020 00:27
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Samadhi posted:Does anyone have any experience with the Closemaid stuff Home Depot sells? They have entire assemblies on sale today and I'm not familiar with them at all. This is one I was considering: Does Ikea have anything like that? They tend to be my go to for flat-pack stuff like that, since everyone's quality is kinda crappy and they are usually the least expensive.
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May 24, 2020 15:27
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shovelbum posted:What did people who have to have basement pumps do before electric pumps were common, was there like a sump pump breed of dog or something Accepted that basements would get wet or didn't put basements on houses in low lying areas.
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May 28, 2020 19:36
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Azuth0667 posted:I need something to lock a mechanical timer to its plugged in device sort of like a lock box for a thermostat. Do those exist or will I have to get one 3d printed? Depending on the size of the timer, you may be able to find an in-use cover that works. I'm pretty sure a good number of them are lockable, like this one for example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/TAYMAC-1-Gang-16-in-1-2-3-4-in-D-Weatherproof-In-Use-Cover-Clear-MM420C/302216014
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Jul 13, 2020 01:02
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d0s posted:I'm trying to find (or build) an assortment of different sizes of this type of screw, in M4 phillips: The term you're looking for is "thread forming", which is forming thread in plastic vs "self tapping" which will have the somewhat pointy ends for other materials. Plastite is a particular configuration of thread forming screw that a company licenses to manufacturers, but the name is also used generically as the kleenex of thread forming screws.
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Jul 25, 2020 18:14
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After some heavy rains I had leakage through my foundation around my 4" septic pipe and a smaller hole with wires for my septic pump. I have chipped away the loose/crumbling mortar on the inside that was used to fill the gap. What's the right thing to use? Hydraulic cement? Some kind of foam? Some kind of caulking? I googled quite a bit but I can't find a clear guide.
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Aug 10, 2020 03:22
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lol internet. posted:I am trying to basically make a 40x40ft deck. Decking being composite and framing being ground contact. Probably 1-2 feet above ground for most of the deck. Be careful with the decking especially if you're laying it at an angle. I know that some composite decking required 12" OC joists if you were laying it at 45 degrees to keep the span length down. Check the manufacturers recommendations for the particular decking you're using.
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Aug 23, 2020 03:36
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