Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

Anne Whateley posted:

I live in a 1920s-1930s apartment in NYC. Today a bulb in a rarely-used enclosed ceiling fixture burned out, and I went to replace it and looked inside the fixture for the first time.

I knew I had original cloth-insulated wiring. I did not know that on one of the wires leading to one bulb, about 3" of the cloth was completely gone.

On a scale of 1-10, how freaked out should I be? Getting it (or anything else) fixed will require taking a few days of vacation time and pissing off my super, so if it's not that big a deal, I'd rather ignore it or fix it myself. I do have the (post-1930s) breaker box in my apartment. I have minimal electrical experience, just swapping out switches and fixtures.

Can you see where the cloth starts & is it intact beyond that point? If it's just a few inches where the cloth has disintegrated, I'd wrap some electrical tape over it starting at the remaining cloth and going all the way down the exposed wire to the end and call it good enough. Give it a few extra winds at the start and end, and stretch it as you wrap to make it tight.

Your wiring has lasted for nearly a century without causing a fire, if your breaker box has some decent breakers and they haven't been tripping for no reason I wouldn't worry too much about hidden problems.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
If you can get your appliances & test fit them before you permanently install the cabinets it could save you some trouble. Floors & walls might not be level, you might want an extra inch of clearance on the top or side of the fridge, you might not be able to slide the dishwasher or oven all the way back against the wall, etc.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Do you know any roofers or gen. contractors? They may have offcuts from some rubber roofing membrane they'll give you.

Instead of that, maybe try a big roll of rubber drawer liner, turned inside out so the rubber side is face up. That might be too flimsy for doggy nails though.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
I don't know anything about back surgery or physical therapy, so this might be a stupid idea, but is the point of the submersed treadmill to reduce the strain on his back?

What about a little A-frame carriage with casters & a sling suspended from the top that would support his chest & abdomen. Adjust the sling height so that he can just barely put his paws on the ground, and it shouldn't be any more stressful than laying down.



Basically a baby walker for quadrupeds. You could put him on a hard floor and let him run around on his own.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Not an expert, but it sounds like your house has settled and the window jam is twisted / or crooked, so your sashes are binding trying to slide around on rails that are too close together or not parallel. I think the only way to fix something like that would be to take the casings off and re-shimming the window into the wall.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Paint is going to highlight any texture underneath it, if that plywood is sanded smooth it may come out OK looking, but if it's rough exterior grade sheathing like they use in the US it will look pretty bad. If it's pretty smooth already you can get it looking even better by caulking or mudding the screw holes & panel seams first, and sanding them smooth with the rest of the surface before painting.

For concrete just make sure to get the right kind of paint, since it's all above grade you probably don't have to worry about moisture seeping in from the other side, right?

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
If it's the only outlet on that breaker, you could replace the breaker itself with a gfci one.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Carpet is typically not anchored anywhere but the edges, where it is stretched very taut and then tacked down. If you start pulling up at the edges you probably won't be able to get it re-attached properly without using a knee-kicker.

Can you describe the smell at all? My immediate thought would be a small animal like a mouse or chipmunk died inside your wall.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Pretty sure an open wall violates fire codes. Part of what makes drywall so popular is it's fire retardation, slowing the spread of fire room to room.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

cakesmith handyman posted:

Send them a bill. E: including your time :colbert:

$6.00 - Materials
$120.00 - Labor: 2 hours*

*Labour billed hourly, includes travel to & from client & to procure materials.

Total: $126.00
Terms: Net / 15

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

dupersaurus posted:

Any thoughts on options for reliable sizing? I don't have tools to make my own dowels. 1-2-3 blocks are neat but I'd need something longer. Are there higher quality dowels with better tolerances?

What about metal rod or tube? Aluminum is extruded so it should be an extremely consistent width. Can you lay it in 1 piece horizontally across your jig, or do you need to use multiple short pieces standing on end? That would be time consuming to cut, but not impossible.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Safest course is to find where it enters the house and disconnect it, short the hot & neutral on both ends, label both ends 'old wiring do not use', then stuff the outside end back down the pipe and seal it up with spray foam & paint, then cover it with rocks.

If you can cut & pull it all out that'd be even better, then try and dig up / cutoff the top of that pipe.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
I thot led eksposhur is ownly dayngerus to kids rite?

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

Medullah posted:

Thanks guys, trying to sell the house so it's time to decide if I want to spend that money to fix it, or just eat the cost since whoever buys is probably going to want to replace 20 year old white carpet anyway.

Don't spend money on paint or flooring before you sell the house unless it's completely wrecked. Instead just add the cost of what you would have done to your asking price and either let the buyers bargain you back down, or offer to pay for whatever they want to do (up to a point) which let's them finance the new work on their mortgage, instead of their credit card.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

FBS posted:

Good evening. I recently moved to an apartment which has a natural gas fireplace, ... Please explain to me how to know I won't die in a horrible gas explosion.

If it's just a gas fireplace, don't worry about it. If you have a gas range then I'd start to worry, not for what you might fuckup but for what your fellow tenants might fuckup. You're probably far more likely to die in a gas explosion or suffocate in your sleep that was caused by the idiot upstairs with the busted igniter and whose nose doesn't work anymore after years of exposure to cigarettes or cat pee.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Maybe hang some pictures / mirrors over the torn spots? I don't think anything you try and patch it with is going to come out matching the original close enough to look nice. Definitely don't try and remove any of it unless you are ready to remove all of it and a good chunk of the (plaster, I assume?) wall behind it.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Also, if that look like more trouble than it's worth you could paper over the kids' sports with another pattern, just make sure to get something at least as wide.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
My bedroom in my last house had plaster & lath walls, 3 layers of wallpaper, and a thin coat of canary yellow paint that did almost nothing to hide the pattern behind it. I tried taking some off and realized I'd end up redoing most of the plaster that way, so I just painted over it. 2 layers of white primer & a topcoat. The first layer was drying right before my eyes, the wall was so dry it literally was sucking up the paint. Wallpaper really should be retired alongside the other things we thought were a good idea in the past, like asbestos tiles, leaded paint, and galvanized pipes.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
There's probably a better solution but I know they make a line of pvc mouldings for baseboards and such. If you could get a few feet of small quarter round that is similar in color to your surround you could caulk that in place. If you did it on all 3 sides & mitered the corners it might even look like it was designed that way.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Does taxidermy do OK in a high humidity environment?

Alternatively:

https://youtu.be/AkFs3YzxN_E?t=1m7s

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Serious suggestion: after filling the void left behind by the now empty duct, cover the new insulation with a piece of black painted pressure treated wood, and put the fan cover back on.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

nosleep posted:

Any help or advice to salvage this would be appreciated. They don't look the best because my main concern was utilitarian, I need them to hold some heavy crap and if I can't make it work then I'm gonna feel like a dummy.





Your main problem here is that pine is very soft, and those screws are going to move around, especially when screwed into end grain. You might be able to strengthen what you've already got by attaching some metal shelf brackets horizontally between the cleat and supports, but I still don't think it will be enough to hold the weight you want to put on it. You may want to try it though, and if it still moves around too much you can always abandon the floating shelf look and re-use the brackets to secure your shelves directly to the studs.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Are those MDF though? Looked like melamine coated LDF/particle board to me.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Not much help, but I have the same problem. My solution is to keep hitting the button, eventually it works. I don't have an issue with the original remote which I leave inside the house, it's just the car's transmitter that doesn't work after sitting in the unheated detached garage overnight, so I think it's the remote's issue rather than the opener.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

H110Hawk posted:

...but that is all you can get these days.

My brother got a regular side by side fridge a couple years ago, a nice one too. Have they since disappeared?

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Which grinder did you buy? I've not got one myself, but every other new power tool I've ever bought had an exasperatingly thorough safety manual.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
My house has the fridge in a hallway just off the kitchen so I only have a few feet of clearance in front of it. In my (admittedly unusual) case the side by side doors give me a little more room to maneuver since I don't have to stand to the side to swing open a 3ft wide door or slide out a deep drawer, and I live alone so capacity isn't a big deal to me.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
It's hard to tell from that photo, but it looks like a junction box, which is shallower than a regular outlet box. With all those wire nuts in there you might not have room to install anything extra. You might want to pickup some box extenders or a wiremold starter box.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

catspleen posted:

Thanks, I think you might be right. I think with the potential grounding issues I might have an electrician friend tale a look at this too in addition to some other work I am getting an estimate for.

Since it's inside a cabinet the 'best' solution is probably to add a new single gang box next to it and run a cable from the junction box to it. Since it's not going to see heavy use plugging/unplugging/cord yanking/etc. all the time an existing work box that only grabs the drywall will be plenty strong.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Are those vent pipes in the middle of the roof? Maybe the seal has broken and you're getting snowmelt from the roof running down the vent inside the wall all the way to the basement.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
That switch flips whats called a diverter (it diverts water from the tub spout to the shower head). Look up your particular fixture online and see what it would take to replace the diverter.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
You'll be drilling up through steel and stone, it'll take a while. A cheap battery powered drill might start flagging after 10 or 20 minutes, and they tend to be heavier than a comparably powerful corded model. Weight is an issue since you are going to be holding this thing above your head in an awkward position for a long time.

If you have a friend with a good drill (corded or not) that has a hammer function definitely try and borrow it. And make sure to get some good masonry bits, the cheap ones don't work.

Another option (this may be a terrible idea so anybody feel free to shoot it down) is to scrape off the paint from the underside of the lintel, and use some construction adhesive to glue on a 1/2" thick board, then use some short screws to mount the blinds to that. It might make things difficult for whoever has to replace the windows in the future though.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Is it spinning freely and so you can't back it out? I think your only two options are to push it through and thereby make the hole a little larger, or try to grab the head with some pliers and thereby make the hole a lot larger.

Alternatively, patch & paint over it and screw into somewhere else.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
I've crimped hundreds of Cat5 connectors over the years, and decided to wire my new house with shielded Cat6. The Cat6 connectors are much harder to work with, mainly due to not being able to simply line up the conductors and hold them flat anymore, since they are now staggered: ........ vs .'.'.'.'

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
I only made the 1 cable to run between my patch panel and my 3d Printer which is on the other side of the basement, mostly just for practice. Eventually I'll put in a real box with jacks once I'm sure where I want it. Everywhere else is jacks and store bought patch cables.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Thanks! That sounds like basically what I'm looking for. Hopefully it doesn't hurt the viewing angle too much. Though installation appears to require a lot of water, which is a little unnerving around electronics...

Amazon Link posted:

Note: Do not apply Window Film on plastic or plexiglas surfaces, motor vehicle windows, frosted, etched, leaded, cracked, holed, deeply scratched glass or glass that is very old (over forty years)

I'm not sure that will work, those are made to stick to glass and I think pretty much all TV's now have a plastic screen.

If you buy some Plexiglas definitely get a sheet that is big enough in all dimensions, joining a cut edge together would be very difficult to get right and will look like a big crack even when done perfectly.

A 24" x 48" x 1/16" acrylic sheet will run you $32 + shipping from McMaster-Carr, or $28 + free shipping from ebay.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Do you mean you want want to remove the laminate entirely and repaint the bare wood? Particle board looks really crappy when painted unless you basically spackle & sand the entire surface first to get it smooth. MDF is better since the surface is smooth and uniform. In either case you are going to have to completely remove the glue first. Do you live in a humid climate? From what I understand cabinets in the south are often treated as disposable for this reason.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

That's a knee brace, a quick google shows that simpson makes a 45 degree tie KBS1Z.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

flashing (N): Something which has the property of being flashy; that which is visually appealing but serves no practical purpose.

caulk (N): Corruption of cock, slang for penis; also: sticky substance jammed into cracks quickly without regard for long term repercussions. See also: 'caulked up'.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

Ashcans posted:

I've owned a few printers and they all ended up having some dumb stupid problem that lead to me getting rid of them in frustration. How is it that printing technology is so old but so many printers are complete poo poo? It's honestly easier for me to just print some stuff at Staples or library than screw around with a printer at home.

Inkjet printers are far less complex than laser, and therefore cheaper to make, and are sold artificially cheaper than they are worth in order to force you to buy the very overpriced ink which is where the money is made.

Laser printers have those lose-leader pricing issues too, plus they have to compete against the much simpler to make inkjets so corner cutting is priority #1. What other computer peripheral do you buy nowadays that still doesn't come with the cord to connect it? If it wouldn't be too complicated for the average printer purchaser I'm sure they would be selling these things with an optional plug-in WIFI module for only $30 extra.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5