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mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Hopefully it's ok if I crosspost this from the house chat thread. Anyone know exactly what this is covering the somewhat out of place brickwork on my house? I'm interested in seeing what it would take to remove it and restore the brick.



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mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Hmm, it's definitely decorative, I think. Like a glaze of some sort. It looks pretty purposeful to soften the color of the bricks.

Here it is in context.


Edit: Maybe whitewash or limewash?

mutata fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Sep 7, 2018

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Super 3 posted:

Have you tried just hitting a test patch with a pressure washer?

I haven't, as I don't have access to one. I think this


Flipperwaldt posted:

It looks like a thing that was applied to the brick as opposed to the wall. Manufactured like that.

is probably right though.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

So what the heck do I do with this:



It's in my front yard. Previous owners had a Dickensian lamppost just stuck in there as if a lower middle class suburban Mr. Tumnus lived there but it obviously rusted away and now I have some wires sticking out of the stump. I'm not opposed to having some wiring in the yard for whatever reason, but I have no idea if they're live or what. I'm assuming there's some kind of code for this stuff and I'm assuming that this is NOT compliant, lol, but I have no idea what to do with it.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Good advice! I'll just call an electrician.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Also good advice! I've been meaning to get one anyway.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

I bought a no-contact tester and I've tracked it to one of the 6(!) switches inside our front door. At least I know I can turn it off. I may just run it into a box or a pipe and bury it whenever I get around to removing that rusted pole until I can figure out wtf to do with a switched electrical hookup in the middle of my front lawn.

Thanks everyone!

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Motronic posted:

So....this isn't actually your problem to solve? Call maintenance.

People can own condos.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Teach me.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Haha, I see how someone might think in their head that that idea is the way to go, but no, it was the wrong choice.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Cement a mailbox into the hole and then fill it with expanding foam.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Just buy, like, 20 packs of Sugru...

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

There are hundreds of equally good Youtube walkthroughs for replacing all of the things in your house so you could start by watching some of those and then deciding if the process looks hairy to you or not.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

I think the general assumption is that competent professionals would theoretically have better resources with which to inform themselves than a general something awful subforum thread.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:

But incompetent amateurs make for more entertaining threads.

I mean, this why I'm here. To provide y'all with entertainment. If I could ever finance some of the house remodel stuff I wanna do it'll be comedy, let me tell you.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Do whatever you want. People who go nuts at other people painting brick are funny.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

At least they aren't freezer-on-top units where 99% of what I want is at my knees and the 1% of the time I want to eat a popsicle frozen leftovers slide out and fall on my toes.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

We have a lot of doors that are off in their frames and I was gearing up to rip off the moulding and shim everything but it turns out that for most of them the hinges have just come loose and I need to replace the hinges. Check the hinges and the screws first before you rip your doors apart is what I'm saying.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Speaking of slab, I have a few small cracks in my basement floor, whatever, the house was built in the 90s. The problem, though, is I noticed some clever ants have made their way up through one of them into the basement. Is there an accepted means of filling in these cracks to keep these assholes out?

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Fallom posted:

ants will happily chew threw any kind of concrete patching goo you shoot in there so make sure to put some poison down first

Oh, good call. Thankfully, they are all dead. I have murdered all that I could see with a spray that they're supposedly supposed to take back to their home and share, but I'm not sure how they're supposed to do that now that they are dead, but I don't write the labels, I guess.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

I hang dry most of my shirts as I got sick of liking the size in store only for it to shrink several(!!) inches or trying to buy upsized and then rolling the shrinking dice. Dryers are fickle beasts at best.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

stinkypete posted:

After doing some more research with your guys help I am starting to think the airless route is better since I have a lot of painting in my future. The overhead painting is going to be a daunting ordeal. I am going to purchase the harbor freight airless sprayer since I would be doing more than a few days of painting in the next 3 years. I think I will buy a better Graco tip since reading about paint guns, the tips they actually matter. I will look into a 30 inch or 24 inch extension for the front of the spray nozzle since I am working overhead. Most of my labor time will be masking and taping but since using rosin paper and tape that is somewhat shorter. Tape and plastic inside your house works since you don't have wind but outside paper works better.

Thanks for all of your help and if you can think of anything else reply. I am not looking forward to painting but with your help I will only be cussing a little.

If anyone needs help with cat5 and wired home networks reach out.

And the goon who reached out to make sure I was wearing Proper PPE keep doing that poo poo

Harbor Freight has a coupon for that sprayer right now, it looks like.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

I just found it on the website. Anyway, if you're gonna buy that paint sprayer (I'm probably gonna get one) use the coupon because it knocks like $30 off the price.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Check to see if it's the kind of moulding where you just lick the back of it and stick it on.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Have any of y'all done a resurface job on a driveway? Our driveway and front walk/stairs needs it bad

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Those are nice address numbers. No house numbers look good on my house since ours is four numbers long and three of them are 8's.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003



Anyone know what kind of cement I should buy to patch this over? It's just that top layer that's sluffed off a bit. I took a wire bristle brush to the whole section and this was as far as I could get it, so now I'm hoping I can just smooth some new concrete over the top and call it good. I'm in Utah, so I have hot summers and frozen winters, if that makes a difference.

mutata fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Sep 25, 2019

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

kid sinister posted:

That's called efflorescence. It's caused by water penetrating concrete, carrying dissolved stuff in it, usually salt. That dissolved crap deposits under the surface, forming crystals. Given enough time, those crystals grow big enough to pop off pieces of the surface and leave a white residue. That being said, efflorescence usually forms on the insides of basements...

A wire brush isn't enough. Get yourself some googles, a hammer and a cold chisel. You didn't get all of the efflorescence, I promise. Put on those goggles and start exploring every crack along there, no matter how small.

Once you got it all, look into parging. You might want to caulk that gap with the stairs once it's all patched.



Got it. Thanks!

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

CzarChasm posted:

Are exterior doors usually standard sizes?


I just did our front door last weekend with a prehung door. I watched a few YouTube videos walking through the process and I had to buy a reciprocating saw, but I need one of those for some other projects so I figured whatever.

The process was straightforward enough but I did run into the requisite unexpected issue and I did make a few mistakes. The unexpected issue was that the concrete of the step that butts up to the door threshold metal plate extended too far into the door as the old door's threshold plate was shorter in depth than the new one. The wood of the house cutout was lower than the concrete. As a result the door wouldn't slot into the exact space that the old one fit into. I bought a chisel and chiseled away about an inch of concrete to get the door in and sealed the gaps with lots of silicone that I'm sure I'll have to touch up.

I made 2 mistakes:
First, I shimmed and installed the frame the first time without the door in it which meant I shimmed it too skinny and the door couldn't shut. Second, I came down the next morning and saw sunlight shining through one side of the bottom of the door so I was playing too loose with my bubble level thinking "looks level enough" would be fine. I had to unscrew the whole thing and build up one side of the frame underneath.

Now, though, it works great and is way better and works better and is better sealed than the old one.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Motor casing on a new ceiling fan gets hot to the touch after running for a bit at full speed. I can keep my hand on it for maybe 5 seconds before I have to pull it away. I'm assuming this is not normal? It doesn't heat up when I have the wall switch on but the fan/light turned off via the fan switches.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

PainterofCrap posted:

No, that is a giant fire hazard & you need to return your new fan.

How the hell did you find this? Cleaning?

I just installed it this morning and was letting it run for a while and I started smelling what I figured was either heated parts or "new appliance smell". It was a little too strong to be just new plastics or whatever, though, so I took the shroud part off and found the heats.

I didn't think they were supposed to get so hot but I've never really messed with them. I'll be taking it back, thanks!

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

I have a bedroom-sized room in the basement that has my washer/dryer in it and a cut out with the furnace/water heater in it. The floor is just raw concrete right now. I'm looking for a fairly straightforward solution to finish the floor for reasonably cheap that also looks deliberate and finished. Any ideas? I'm currently thinking of just sealing it and calling it good, but I thought I'd ask if anyone knows of something cooler or better.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

I guess normal feel, so not that like anti-slip spikey textured epoxy or whatever. Also fairly easy to clean.

And yeah, I figured we wouldn't really want carpet in there...

I'll check out some of those!

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

I'm laughing at "WEAK MORALS". Jesus Christ, you guys.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Jaded Burnout posted:

It is Not the Done Thing round these parts, my lad, house & castle etc

Yes, surely, too true, your majesty, quite right. Dissolving moral fibers among the proletariat, shameful indeed.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

You'll probably need a nail punch to countersink them too.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

There are also work mat kind of rugs that are pretty thin and can basically be taken out and hosed off when dirty, etc.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

I need to get me some Antique Cylindrical Objects. They're gonna be the hot design trend 2020.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

What uh... What am I looking at here..

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mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Impacted bowels is a serious medical condition.

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