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yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

My condo bathroom fan sucks poorly and makes a ton of noise. I'm redoing the bathroom right now and want this thing out of there. There's a number of quiet, high powered fans on the market, but the problem is they all need 4" or larger ducting. My building is older and has 3" ducting.

Can I just use a 4"->3" duct reducer? Obviously the airflow will be reduced and the fan may be a little bit noisier. This won't damage the motor or cut the airflow in half or anything like that, will it?

VVVVV
Thanks for the reply! It's actually a 3" rolled sheet metal duct, not flex tubing. I have no idea how long it is because it seems like it might tie into some central duct for the building, i.e. bathroom isn't on exterior wall and I can't see a vent on the exterior wall.

saw your edit, thanks again

yippee cahier fucked around with this message at 01:21 on May 8, 2010

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yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

GWBBQ posted:

Unless you're sure all plumbing from the water heater to the sink is new and all solder is 100% lead-free (certified lead-free can have up to 8% lead in solder,) you shouldn't be drinking hot water from the tap.

I've had two hot water tanks rust out on me in my life. Chances are he's seeing something similar. They're made really poorly these days. He's probably safe, but still the landlord should flush the rust or replace the tank.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Some paints don't adhere well to some caulkings, check the labels to figure out if you should paint last.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

elevatordeadline posted:

wasps

I did something like this: http://www.sentex.net/~mwandel/built/wasp-sucker.html with a crappy shopvac when helping renovate a house with a nest in a crack in the front steps. If they're entering the shed in one main location, just get the nozzle in pretty close and let it rip until you don't see any more wasps. I should probably note that the vacuum killed them as well, so I had no problems disposing of them afterwards.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Captain Stinkybutt posted:

light switches
You can probably find cheaper:
http://www.amazon.com/Classic-Accents-Single-Antique-Reproduction/dp/B0002EVT5Y

Then pick up a couple arcade switches and start modding:
http://www.sparkfun.com/categories/145

They're likely doing something similar because building your own light switch is probably not to anyone's local building code.

VVVV sorry, just edited

yippee cahier fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Jun 10, 2011

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Ballz posted:

In my garage I have this:



Nothing I own fits this kind of outlet... not even sure what would plug into something like that. But it's located right where I sure could use a regular, run-of-the-mill wall outlet to plug my boombox into.

Is it possible to just swap that outlet out with a regular outlet? Or is that something an electrician would be more qualified to change?

That's a 220V outlet. You might be able to use it for a welder or some other piece of heavy equipment. You may also be able to find a power supply for your boombox. Either way, don't swap it with a 110V outlet.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Just make proper stained glass. My aunt and friend did it, so I think a DIY minded person could pick it up without a problem.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Non Krampus Mentis posted:

I have a record player, which I believe is one of these (A Crosley Traveler Turntable), which has recently stopped working. Specifically, the turntable no longer turns when I pull the needle arm to the right like I'm supposed to.

I unscrewed the top and took a look inside, and nothing seemed to be visibly broken, except that one of the wires connecting the turntable to the base of the needle arm broke somehow (there's a red, a white, and a black wire, and a piece just sort of snapped off of the black wire).

I can take pictures of the inside of this thing if people need it to further diagnose the problem.

You may want to try the electronics thread. From a quick look at the manual, it looks like the platter motor is activated by moving the tone arm over from the rest position. That broken wire could be the switch for that. Solder it back together and give it a shot. Check with a continuity tester on a multimeter to see if it's a switch first if you want.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Cosmik Debris posted:

I think ripping is going with the grain, crosscutting is going against the grain.

e: I could be wrong

You're correct.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

get a couple bike trainers. they get hot as hell.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

I think you've got room for one more tool in your kit: http://www.youtube.com/user/ENGINEERTOOL#p/u/99/4Ld0HB21oNA

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

internet inc posted:



How do I shave this extra bit off? A friend recommended an electric planer, but isn't it going to take forever? Also, I'm hoping I could save a trip to my father's place to borrow one.

Would it work with a skill saw? I'm a little worried about destroying everything since that little border is 5 feet long. :ohdear:

Table saw.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Has anyone seen a low profile intercom buzzer for an apartment front door that just has an "answer" and "buzz in" button on it? I will never have a landline and just need to buzz people in now and then by hitting "6", so I don't want to have a telephone hanging around. I could try to do this as an electronics project, but I'd rather just buy it if it exists already. Something that doesn't look like it's 30 years old would be ideal.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

kid sinister posted:

Does the guest at the panel down by the front door need to dial a code based on a room number to "call" that room for them to buzz the guest in? You might not actually need a landline, just a phone to press 6.

edit: if you really want to make something yourself, you might be able to juryrig together a Mini B telephone along with a "doorphone" or "door station". You would have to add a second button for the "buzz in" feature.

Yeah, I just need a phone to answer the call from the panel at the building entrance. I currently have an ugly one sitting there that I'd like to replace with something low-key and white. I think the way to go may be hacking apart a cheap speakerphone, enclosing it in something more nondescript and only wire up the '6' and answer buttons to the front panel. Or just buy a cheap phone that doesn't look terrible. Thanks.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Stalizard posted:

I want to hang this shelf in my kitchen to hold all my pots and pans:


My pots and pans weigh just over 80 pounds. Ideally, About thirty pounds will sit on the shelf proper and fifty pounds will be hanging off the rail farthest from the wall.

I measured out the studs in my wall and unfortunately the shelf comes about an inch short. If I screw one side of the shelf into studs and use drywall anchors on the other side, will my shelf come crashing down?

I took each bar provided, half screwed in a screw, used crowbar to pry out the end cap, then cut to length with a hacksaw before replacing the end cap to make sure I hit a stud on both sides. Holds my towels just fine.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Rock salt and a mild solvent like rubbing alcohol works well, I hear...

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Or an old mattress cut down to size. No problem finding one of those.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Smeed posted:

Where can I get/what kind of doorknob is this called? Its from an old house, I don't need the mechanism or anything. All I need are two knobs and the part in the middle. Do they even make these anymore and would it be cheaper to just buy something modern?



I'd search for mortise locks. They still make them as there are plenty of old houses around that need new hardware while still keeping a classic look. You just might not find any at Home Depot.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

You can also just leave the lid off and let it dry naturally before disposing of it.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

You could pickup a longer hose and put a little loop in it

Edit:
Didn't realize it was 8 feet already. I saw stainless steel hose and thought of the 18" ones for sinks or whatever.

yippee cahier fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Sep 1, 2012

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

kid sinister posted:

GFCIs are GFCIs. As long as you wired it properly it will protect you.

The mental image I get is the unprotected circuit feeding into the back of the GFCI outlet is still two inches from pumping water.

I'd either move the GFCI further away from the tub or just replace the breaker.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Scratch Moded posted:

Hey I need help figuring out what pieces I will need to convert the power source on my Mini Air Compressor. It currently plugs into a 12v Car Cigarette lighter socket; I would like it to plug into an average US living room 110v house socket. Compressor is 14 amps so I can't just use one of those 5 dollar converters on Ebay .

Links , Diagrams, instructions- all are appreciated. Google and Youtube has only spit low amp options at me.

Old computer power supply, green wire shorted to ground?

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Safety Dance posted:

I bought a used Northern Industrial 14" cutoff saw ($20 from a retired contractor, filthy and a little rusty but still works, screaming deal), and I'm not sure how to go about reattaching the blade.



It seems logical to me that the blade would be sandwiched between the first and second big disks, then the third disk would go on and act like a big washer for the bolt. My problem is that the hole in the blade (that came with the saw) is slightly larger than the axle (arbor?), and so the blade spins a little eccentrically. How big an issue is that?

That blade is designed for a 20mm arbor, and that's a little too big. The other circular saw blade I have is designed for a 5/8" arbor, and that's just a little bit smaller than the axle (seriously, it feels like I could give it a love tap with a hammer and it would pop on). Is there a specific size I should be looking for?

Also, can I put a wood blade on it and use it to cut wood?

That disk has a key on it. On my grinder, that would slot in perfectly on the axle and be nice and secure. Does attaching it directly without those sandwiching cups seem like an option?

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

My countertops are about an inch and a half thick, but that included A 3/4 inch build up so they would sit flat on the IKEA cabinets and not block the drawers from extending. So the laminate portion of the countertops was actually only about 3/4 inch and the lip extended down the rest of the way, but only on front edge. Worth thinking about if your countertop store has a similar style.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005


I'd take a hack saw and cut a little notch in the plastic and then just push the drawer rail out of the way when I used my shutoff valve once every couple years.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005


I've only used a handful of dryers in my relatively short life on this earth and none of them used electrical arcing or fire to dry my clothes. Your landlord is lazy and an idiot.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

In that vein, is there a source for cutting edge construction techniques and products? I only have experience with renovating the kind of wood framed buildings that were popular around here over the last 50 years so that's all I'm going to find at the local Home Depot. My interest was raised when someone told me that drywall wasn't used in other parts of the world and there was a different wall board technique. If I were to build a completely modern house tomorrow, where would I get ideas and find hassle-free products and find out how to do this?

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

ShadowStalker posted:

I subscribe to Fine Homebuilding and find I learn lots about new construction techniques and materials from that magazine. You may want to check out a few issues and see for yourself.

Thank you, I'll do that.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Chin Strap posted:

I have a glass mouthpiece for a vaporizer. This vaporizer has a smaller glass tube that goes into the mouthpiece. I just broke that small tube off the vaporizer and it is stuck in the mouthpiece. There is a very short piece of the glass tube sticking out, not quite long enough to grip by hand. If I had some way to grip it I think I could jiggle it lose. Does anyone have any ideas about how I could grip it, or another way to make the glass tube loose enough to come out?

some kind of hooked piece of wire to insert down the tube and apply pressure from the the bottom when you pull it? maybe heating up the outside glass a bit to have it expand?

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

If you do, be careful about the current draw of the swing.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

BrainParasite posted:

Anybody have experience building an at home carbonator and have tips?

I put one together. Bought a reconditioned CO2 tank from a fire extinguisher store, a regulator from a U Brew place and a ball lock valve and a couple ball lock soda bottle caps and connected it up. I can link to the parts as an example if you're interested, but I'm on my phone right now.

I cool 2L bottles of water in the fridge to help with solubility, put a ball lock cap on while squishing out any air, connect up the gas and let it rip. Then it's just a matter of shaking the bottle for a minute or two to dissolve the CO2 and I'm drinking the fizziest water I've ever had.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

The links are to a Canadian store I bought things from, but you can probably find better selection elsewhere.

* CO2 tank - The fire extinguisher store does this kind of stuff all the time, so the valve and fittings were whatever the standard is.
* Regulator (http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/product_p/t742hp-02.htm) - Like I said, I got a used one from a U-brew shop for a good deal. I put new tape on the threads and it was good to go.
* Hose and ball lock fittings (http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Gas_Tubing_Assembly_Ball_Lock_Disconnect_for_Kegs_p/gas-tubing-ball-lock-barb.htm) - These seem to come in liquid and gas versions.
* Bottle cap (http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Carbonation_cap_for_Beer_p/carbonation-cap.htm) There's a plastic one out there too, but it wasn't a whole lot more to get the steel one domestically for me.

I got the barbed fittings for the hose attachments, which use hose clamps. You can get threaded stuff as well, but my regulator already had a barbed fitting on it and that linked combo package of hose and ball lock valve were barbed, so I went with that. I'd recommend picking up whatever washers and O rings your equipment uses if you're making an order online. I needed one of these: http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/product_p/nylon-co2-washer.htm so I grabbed a couple as spares. Also, those plastic ball lock valves feel very flimsy and use a bit of force to put them on the bottle and contain 60 PSI of CO2, so I feel like that if anything breaks, it'll be that. I should have got a spare.

Attached is my setup. Way better and cheaper to operate than a Soda Stream, and not that much more to put together.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

A hacksaw/grinder and one of these https://www.google.com/search?q=screw+chain+link&tbm=isch?

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Gothmog1065 posted:

More appliance fun!

My washer decided to quit spinning out. It agitates, it drains, but it won't spin in any of the modes (Even the manual spin mode).

Model WFMC2201UC/02.

I've already cleaned out the drain, there was nothing in it. Should I try testing the door lock sensor (And how?) or just go straight for the control board?

The washer in my building won't do anything unless the door lock is working, which seems like pretty logical behaviour. Since it agitates, I'd say all the motor stuff is fine too. Maybe the unbalance sensor is stuck? Some guy on amazon says his won't spin if it's unbalanced but otherwise seems to cycle: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Nexxt-300-Series-WFMC2201UC/product-reviews/B000UN7HAI. Some guy here lists a few trouble codes, if you can see them on your washer: http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=4320.0. Looks like there are a couple other sensors involved in the spin cycle, like a speed sensor that could be stuck.

My only washer repair experience was a really old washer that needed a valve replaced, but it was surprisingly straight forward to take apart and swap. Try to look up some trouble codes to zero in on the issue and see if there's anything obvious with the relevant sensors.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Motronic posted:

Shop vac if you have one (if it's a wet/dry as most are). Get up all the water you can to minimize damage.

But honestly, it's not really your problem other than short term. Whatever damage was done needs to be fixed by the property owner.

You could be a nice guy and cut the power to it and drain it. Could take some pressure off the leak. That sucker's going to be replaced anyways.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Get a single PVC end cap and pop it on prior to cutting on your current saw.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

I poked through preliminary documentation: https://developer.apple.com/library/prerelease/ios/documentation/HomeKit/Reference/HomeKit_Framework/index.html If apple doesn't ship an app to twiddle your lights, I expect that someone will write one shortly.

I'm hoping that when it's actually released it's open enough that anyone can implement a hardware accessory otherwise we'll just see a couple HomeKit certified devices with $100 premiums like you see for AirPlay devices. I'm building a cat feeder that would be cool to control from my phone, but that stuff's under NDA and you need a company developer account to sign up for details.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

I saw some real contractor dudes use a roll of foam gasket material that was the width of a stud and designed exactly for this purpose. For what it's worth, they didn't use treated lumber.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Also, make sure you turn your water off over night if you don't want the bowl to automatically fill up as it leaks. If that's what it is.

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yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Do you think a left hand bit would extract the bolt?

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