Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five

PrinceofNessus posted:

async1ronous, is there a difference between the Japanese hand saws and the traditional western ones? I've got a standard little dovetail back-saw, but I almost got a Japanese saw when I was shopping. When I decide to expand my collection of saws I'd like to have an idea of which way to go.

Japanese saws cut on the pull stroke, instead of the push stroke like American/European saws, and don't require as thick of a blade (because a blade being pushed forward has to stay rigid while a blade being pulled back doesn't).

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five

EigenKet posted:

Based on a 5 minute analysis I think you'll have quite a bit of trouble cooling a car like that.

Full sunlight delivers around 1000 watts / meter ^2 and your car has a square meter or two of surface area exposed to the sun. So if you want to keep the car's temp. equal to the outside temp. your cooling system is going to have to move at least a kilowatt.

Those wine coolers work at lower power because they're removing energy from an insulated box so the conduction of heat back in is small. If you have [thermal energy out] > [thermal energy in] and [thermal energy in] is small, the inside of the box cools and it takes little power to do so.
A car is very far from an insulated box and getting [thermal out] > [thermal in] will take significantly more power.

A simpler solution would be a solar powered fan that vents the hot air to the outside .

Like this?

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five

Bad Munki posted:

I really enjoy time lapse videos. Maybe they're including that feature in dslrs by default these days (I know canon has been in a number of theirs) but my camera is old enough to not support it on its own. So I made this!





It's a time lapse shutter control module for my nikon. Using the switches, I can set the delay between pictures anywhere from 1 to 256 seconds, as well as control a couple other settings. In the future, I might like to have some additional modules that will, say, trigger a series of pictures when it hears a noise, or an IR motion sensor is tripped, or the module gets a signal from the internet, that sort of thing, but that's all in the mysterious future. Here's a video I made with rev1 of this thing, before I had the configuration options (I just hard-coded the delay into the software.) It's a bunch of dudes floating around in Lake of the Ozarks for four hours while our wives went shopping, compressed into about 2 minutes (one picture every five seconds.)

Really looking forward to playing with this some more in the very near future now that I have more or less the final product I originally wanted.

I don't know if this would be of any interest to you or not, but your given time reminded me about the intervalvometer build in the link.

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five

Soopafly posted:

They are reloading racks for pipette tips. Once the tips are used up, we trade out the old thing for one that's full of new ones. The holes would fit LEDs well I think too. As for the armor, I'll need to stock up on a few more, but that could be fun.

1) Stick the reloading racks together in a big grid.
2) Attach handle(s).
3) Insert into bubble soap solution.
4) Make insane quantities of bubbles.
5) Entertain children.

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five
I just recently finished a rather lengthy (approx 30-40 hours total work time) Valentine's Day project. I came up with four designs for the earrings and when I asked, "What are your favorite colors for jewelry?" I was given 4 colors, so 16 pairs of earrings resulted. The design can be matched to the occasion or mood and the color can be matched to...whatever one matches earrings to (I know nothing about jewelry).

They were made by taking scissor-cut copper clad (it's like the stuff home-made circuit boards are usually made of except the fiberglass layer is about 10% of the thickness so you can cut it with scissors instead of a saw), using the toner transfer method to get the design onto the blanks, etching it using copper chloride, and then staining it with permanent markers after cleaning and trimming. When they're front lit, the colors look a little muted, but the copper is highly visible. The colors are much more noticeable when they're back lit, but the copper just looks black (because of the shadow it casts).

First design, front lit. (An anatomic brain.)
Second design, back lit. (An anatomic heart.)
Third design, back lit. (Silhouettes of my recipient.)
Fourth design, back lit. (Partial fingerprints of myself and my recipient, arranged into a heart.)

Being partially color blind, I was a bit wary when I was told "red, green, blue, and purple" as the first two colors are ones I don't see well and the second two are ones I have trouble differentiating, but I'm pretty pleased with the result. Before this, the only jewelry I'd ever made were these wire flower earrings but I'm sort of getting the hang of this as far as I can tell. The photographs were taken on a small piece of acrylic I had laying around my lab which was drilled and heat-bent.

If you have the equipment sitting around to make circuit boards and you can get your hands on thin copper clad, this method might be right up your alley or to the liking of someone you'd know.

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five

Ropes4u posted:

Boiling water might help strip hinges from an old pair of glasses

Or acetone! :science:

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five

sneakyfrog posted:

i havent seen any long term nefarious projects in here yet... please friend do :frogon:

I still think we need a KickStopper, where people agree to not do things if they receive enough crowd-sourced donations.

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five

JEEVES420 posted:

I mounted the transformer in that huge grey junction box and right now I have a pilot light in the switch to let me know there is power to the unit and then when I flip the switch it is on. I am unplugging it before adding more baking soda/water to wood. As it is it is "safe" but I am adding a turn key switch before the pilot light switch, a dead man switch after the pilot light switch, and a big emergency flashing red light on top of the box for when it is in use. I figure with 3 switches and 2 warning lights if I kill myself I deserved it.

Pulling the live capacitor out of the microwave was the most nerve racking. This thing would have a bit of a tingle touching the leads.


If I'm reading the diagram on that capacitor's label correctly, the 10M self-discharge resistor built into the cap would have prevented the tingle if you let it sit for a bit.

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Here's the finished piece:



It's maybe a little small for a donations/collections bowl: 8" long and 6" wide, or thereabouts. Still worth asking the churches I know of if they want it; I have no better ideas.

If you put water in the center, does it come out of the longer side or both sides? I could see it being a neat part of a water feature if you ran a pipe in through the bottom.

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five

Ravendas posted:

Posted this in the boardgame thread, but maybe it belongs here too.

I made a new boardgame table. I had a 4'x8' one similar to this, but it was just too unwieldy, so I was thinking of downsizing it for months. Finally ordered the hardware needed two weeks ago and disassembled the original for parts, and made the new table a week ago.

Here's my twitter thread I made for it. Here's where I show off the final product, but there's a few pictures previous showing a bit of the construction.

https://twitter.com/Ravendas16/status/1301702171554086912

It's 3/4" 4'x8' board, with a quarter inch of foam over it and some really nice velvet over it all.

Some 12" sliders from amazon attached to 1x3's with trays cut from a 1x10 that slide out, with some big cup holders to prevent messes. The slides are really smooth and strong, they stay exactly where you pull them out to, so you can keep it mostly pushed in, with just the cupholder exposed if you don't need the full length of the tray.

The legs were salvaged from some old table at a church sale a few years ago and given new life (and paint) in my boardgame tables.

10/10. Would play Catan on.

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five

JEEVES420 posted:

I don't know, doesn't have anything to do with it more than I wanted to cut and inlay something into a piece of wood :shrug:

It really pops. I would have guessed it was one of those UV reactive resins if you hadn't mentioned the turquoise.
Nice work. :)

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five

Hadlock posted:

In our new house my wife's closet came with a particle board closet organizer, and on one of the exposed edges there is/was a rubber/vinyl trim piece that was stuck on with some adhesive about 15 years ago, which recently failed

What's a good glue to use for this?

I can't really clamp it, so that rules out most polyurethane glues like gorilla glue
Wood glue doesn't seem like it'll stick to vinyl
Super glue... I dunno, doesn't seem practical for high surface area applications

Doesn't need to be a strong bond, just sticky enough to hold it's own weight. Would something like spray contact adhesive work?

Super glue sounds like the lowest effort "never have to mess with it again" solution.

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five
In grad school, while I was building electronics for laboratory equipment, I started heat-bending acrylic to create "enclosures" on which I could mount electronics. (They had open sides but I could mount boards and LEDs at specific angles which was my primary goal.)

I actually settled on aerosol plasti-dip as the best option for keeping acrylic from sliding around on desks/lab benches. I'd unbolt my boards, mask off the area I didn't want sprayed, and then spray the plasti-dip in several thin layers with a brief dry/cure between layers.

It worked very well, gave better traction than adhesive rubber feet, and allowed a flat corner to grip well enough that you could rest your hand on a rotary encoder or push your face against an eyepiece.

I found it difficult to remove from any acrylic that was rough enough to get good adhesion, so I'd be wary of spraying it directly on a board that I wanted to be serviceable. (And if it doesn't need to be serviceable, the term to search for is "potting".)

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five

A Wizard of Goatse posted:




first try at a resin pour. I'm kinda eh on how it looks vs. the wood inlay, but keeping that design from tearing out was a pain and I'd spent too long cleaning it up to just throw it away, dammit

Looking at some of the details on that last one, I noticed that all of the bleeding out from the fill areas follows the grain (i.e. is vertical in that picture).
It makes me wonder if you could reduce that by heavily clamping the piece perpendicular to the grain before pouring to compress the parallel fibers in the wood.

They both look neat (though I'm colorblind and I'm not sure if I'm seeing the...greens?....correctly in the non-black resin).
Did you do it with a CNC or hand carve?

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five
Re: In-home urinal.

When I was in middle school one of the "electives" (we were forced to take all of them but they rotated each 6 weeks unlike normal courses) required us to lay out a house for some reason.
Cue me, who actually cooked family meals regularly at that age, designing a house with a urinal in the kitchen as a time-saving measure, and putting it next to the stove so I could keep an eye on anything that was on an active burner. :gonk:

Also, I love the idea of one of your cats creepin' on the other cat's duce Spiderman kiss style.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five

I watched a Technology Connections video recently where the host covered those (and many other styles of) lanterns. I still think it's insane that anyone successfully marketed a lantern that requires a main fuel and a priming fuel that are different (:psyduck:), but nice job on the restoration.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply