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If anyone is interested in going beyond the basics you are really going to need more than the above tools. Get an oscilloscope and learn to use it. Scoping out ebay is also useful. Sometimes you can find a decent deal on there buy you have to look frequently. If you want new, you can get a digital 60Mhz tek scope for less than 1K. Mainly scopes are used for looking at signals/waveforms. When I am troubleshooting something its generally the first tool I grab after making sure everything is getting proper power. Also, don't cheat yourself and get a super cheap soldering iron. You can get a metcal/OKI now for under 200$ off ebay or even new. They heat up instantly and don't cool down at all while soldering. The only disadvantage is that you need to treat them nice. The handset cable is actually a mini=coax cable. And if you abuse it badly it will break. Ebay is pretty much the best source for lots of little poo poo you might need like passive components (resistors, caps etc). I usually just get a large set of various axial components for 25$. SMT stuff is even cheaper. I'm not so much into the anymore but I can probably answer most questions people have. I was an R&D electronics tech at a Magna Donnelly for a few years as well as Invensys. Most of my job was reverse engineering competitors products, prototyping, designing test equipment, and component research. So I'm pretty familiar with most aspects of trying to rig something together with minimal facilities.
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Jan 8, 2008 08:33
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Power is a good point that was brought up. This should probably be one of your first projects once you get a few tools for your bench. You can make a pretty decent from a few op amps and assorted passives. Or you can make one from an ATX power supply. It would be limited to +/-12 +/-5 +3.3 though. And the ATX power supplies can be finicky sometimes. Putting together a power supply is a pretty useful first project though.
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Jan 8, 2008 16:46
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Circumcision Hater posted:Last question, when I started tinkering with things as a kid, my dad instilled a fear of flux in me, because ZOMG ACID. As a result, I've never used it, to this day. How bad is flux really? Will it eat my skin if I spill it on myself or just hurt a bit? What safety precautions should I take? You don't use acid flux on electronics ever. What you want is rosin flux, Its pretty much inert, you could probably wipe your face with it with no ill effects.
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Jan 9, 2008 02:11
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Skycks posted:Would something like this be a wise investment for a starter bench power supply? Its a good power supply. I have used similar hp/agilent supplies before. I wouldn't pay that much for one though. The shipping from asia is way too much. Anyone know of a decent design for a lab power supply? Maybe this should be the first project for this thread. Coming up with a set of schematics for the basic things you need. Bench meter, power supply, simple 2Mhz scope/logic analyzer, function generator, RCL meter. The biggest problem I have always had with this though is its a pain in the rear end to calibrate everything. Edit: Oh also this guy making his own vacuum tubes is awesome: http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/01/make_your_own_vaccum_tube.html ValhallaSmith fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Jan 9, 2008 |
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Jan 9, 2008 09:05
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WilfBerT posted:Has anyone has an experience with these relatively cheap (~$200US) USB digital storage oscilloscopes? I hate these things. They tend to be laggy and poorly featured. They work ok if you are just trying to automatically log some waveforms. But for interactive work they are kind of a pain. Really, you would be best served by getting a real scope off of ebay. An analog tek 7000 series mainframe scope can work pretty well. Or just save up 1000$ for a small tek scope. Or hit ebay every day and learn which scope are worthwhile and which are not. Instek can sometimes have cheap equipment as well. I kind of wish there was more of a market, an opensource scope kit would be nice.
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Jan 11, 2008 05:44
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What do you guys think beginning electronics hobbyists would want in a power supply? I was thinking of offering free schematic and a kit. Is it better to just keep it as cheap as possible (under 10$) or give it some features that drive up the cost? I was thinking of something with a bare minimum of features right now. Also I want to keep the size down so it can fit in an altoids tin. I would ditch any display or controls in favor of a USB pic uC. This keeps costs down since you can get a PIC sample free from microchip. The power supply would be able to do 0-~15v depending on what type of DC wall wart you plug into it. Current limiting, but I think I will forgo remote sense to start with. Not sure how many outputs. Probably just 1. I figure the PIC, Op amps, regulator and transistors can be had for free. You can eat the altoids, so you just need to get a small kit of passive components and some connectors (banana posts, USB, wall wart power). So yea, 0-15v@1A, PC controlled, variable current limit. Think that would be a good hobby power supply? mtwieg posted:That was the first place I checked, but they don't have it (in reasonable quantities, at least). These guys have free 250g paste samples: http://www.smtsolderpaste.com/free_solder_paste.php ValhallaSmith fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Jan 12, 2008 |
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Jan 12, 2008 22:41
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mtwieg posted:Well poo poo, that looks great, thanks. I've built tons of those. What I'm trying to come up with is something very cheap for the hobbyist. The reason I would go with a pic or avr is because using one of those over USB is cheaper than adding in everything you need for a display, controls and switches. Plus I want to keep these at a very small form factor (altoid form factor). I've been reading up on synthetic instrumentation for a chunk of the day. I might draw something up that heads in that direction. Instead of a power supply you could basically build a DAC. Then if you want a voltage meter you add a ADC voltage module. If you want power factor correction/metering you add a shunt resistor, amp and another adc. Basically a very generic instrument set that performs most of the measurement on the PC. It would be USB 2.0 based so that would kind of limit things at times. USB has crappy latency. But 10$ per module isn't that bad I don't think. Most people don't need sampling in the ghz range. I think just making a 1khz DAC and a 1mhz adc would be a good start.
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Jan 13, 2008 04:26
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Another item you guys might be interested in is Proteus VSM: http://www.labcenter.co.uk Basically in addition to being able to do spice simulation like the other simulators, it can also simulate a microcontroller at the same time. So you can setup complete projects and simulate them software and all before putting iron to solder. Definitely not free though.
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Jan 14, 2008 06:26
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900ftjesus posted:If you're at all serious about getting started in electronics, you need this book: I have it as well and it is a great book. Probably enough to get a taste since some of the standard devices are still the same. But the book is from 1989 so be prepared to have to modify what they tell you. I wish those fuckers would hurry up with 3rd ED.
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Jan 15, 2008 06:37
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Cuw posted:Yeah you kinda need a dmm to calibrate your dmm though... You could use a reference zener to get close. Or one of those precision voltage references. Edit: But this is true of pretty much anything. Electronics or mechanical. ValhallaSmith fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Jan 16, 2008 |
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Jan 16, 2008 02:36
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mrbill posted:I got a free one that was good enough for basic use, when I ordered the Z80 SBC kit - a lot of electronics supply houses have "free gift for order over $X" deals. Even then, a most basic DMM is no more than $20. Futurlec.com has them for less than 5$ for a 3.5 digit basic DMM. http://futurlec.com/Multimeters.shtml I should probably pick one of those up for my toolbox anyway. Though what I really want is a nice 5-1/2 digit bench meter.
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Jan 16, 2008 06:03
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Squier posted:I am working on my senior year physics project which is a small cyclotron and need some electronics help. I need to create an RF amplifier that is capable of producing around 50-100 watts in the 1-15 MHz range. I haven't had much practical electronics and am hitting brick wall after brick wall trying to design this. So far it seems a push pull tube amplifier would be my best bet but am really lost beyond that. Any help at all would be awesome. Google for ham radio amplifier schematics in the 80 and 30 meter bands.
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Jan 20, 2008 21:33
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I don't know if you have seen it yet but: http://www.physics.rutgers.edu/cyclotron/ Those are a couple of "homebuild" cyclotrons at rutgers. You might be better off just scrounging for the RF supplies. There are probably still plenty of old tube based amps and signal sources stacked in a corner in some government lab. Who are you getting the rest of parts for the cyclotron from? Huge pieces of iron and magnets are not cheap.
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Jan 21, 2008 06:53
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Nerobro posted:Would any goons be interested in a very small variable power supply? Might as well make "first" electronics projects useful right? I need to get permission to put the kits together first. However I'm putting feelers out, would any of you buy kits like that? PCB and all parts included? What would you pay? I am attempting to put a design together right now for a 30W power supply. Features: *Ethernet connection, LXI support and maybe software Class C IEEE 1588 support. *2 output tracking +/- 30v@1A to ~1v@3-5A DC. *.05%+5mV output accuracy. (about 15mV off at 20V) *Adjustable current limit. *10$ or less in one off parts. IE standard resistors and transistors don't count. Also not taking into account PCB costs, people can always build it on perfboard. I think all of this is doable at the price. I'm aiming for something roughly equivalent to an agilent E3611A but a little less accurate, and a couple more bells and whistles. Something like the PIC18F66J60 has it costs about 3.50 in volume. It has a built in 10 Base-T ethernet mac, phy and only needs a magjack(1.50$)for it to work. For power I would probably go with some sort of switcher with a linear regulator for the final output. This avoids an expensive and large transformer. I've actually never designed a switcher for this much power and for low EMI. In any case the PIC18F66J60 would be running the switcher off of its PWM outputs. Not sure what to do about the linear stage yet. Maybe just see if I can find a cheap SPI DAC and have a couple opamps regulate to that. Or maybe get another PWM to set that. Startup is a little problem. Might just use a resistive AC regulator to get the uC and switcher going then have an isolation relay kick in. Not that big of a deal if the uC is isolated from everything else. I originally wanted this thing to be an Altoid form factor device. But at 30W I think I'm asking for a bit much. EMI is going to be a pain as well. I was thinking of trying a psudo spread spectrum switcher to try and limit it somewhat. Anyone have some ideas? 10$ to make the equivalent of a 450$ power supply might be a bit much, but I'd like to get close.
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Jan 22, 2008 05:44
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mtwieg posted:for a project I need some good antistatic protection for the pins of my microcontroller. It has built in protection diodes, but I don't really trust them since their characteristics aren't specced in the datasheet. The easiest way would be to just put a resistance in front of the input, but the thing is I will be switching it to an output also, and I don't want it to have too high of an output impedance. So it seems my best option is to put on some redundant protection diodes. However, I'm not sure what kind to get. I'd assume Schottkys with good peak current ratings would be good, but I'm not sure. If you can get reasonably decent resolution on your PCB, you can try using spark gaps. They are pretty effective at ESD protection. Just have small spots where there is an unobstructed .5 mm gap to ground.
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Jan 23, 2008 03:09
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mtwieg posted:well I'm not sure if I'll be making custom pcbs for this particular project, since it's reasonable simple. I'll keep that in mind though. The minimum gap allowed is 8mil, so that should be small enough. I assume for each pin I will want gaps going to both ground and the positive supple rails correct? and there shouldn't be any soldermask over the gap? I'd only do that between signal traces and ground. For input power protection I'd use a MOV. But yea, no solder mask at the contact point. If you google for ESD spark gap PCB you should get to see some decent foil patterns for doing it. When you get boards that have this type of ESD protection be sure to do a continuity check to make sure there isn't a short. Edit: This gives a good overview of available ESD devices: http://www.eetkorea.com/ARTICLES/2007APR/PDF/EEKOL_2007APR19_EMD_AN_02.PDF?SOURCES=DOWNLOAD ValhallaSmith fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Jan 23, 2008 |
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Jan 23, 2008 04:29
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Almasy posted:When you buy a scope on Ebay, how can you tell if the scope will function or not? It seems like most ads are as vague as possible about the condition of the scope. Depends on how much you are spending and what specs you need. If you are spending 800-1000$ buy new. Less than that buy from someone in your home country. Scopes are ridiculously expensive to ship if you are trying to get an old one. I've got an Agilent 54100A and its a loving anchor. Anything made pre-90's is going to heavy as hell. As far as whether it will work, make sure they have a decent rating. I bought mine from this guy: http://stores.ebay.com/Test-Equipment-Connection he's fast at shipping and everything worked fine. You didn't say what type of circuits you wanted to measure. Someone can probably give you a better idea of what to look for if you say that.
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Jan 24, 2008 04:38
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Cuw posted:Also a site that sells good soldering irons besides e-bay would be nice. I have a relatively decent weller adjustable iron but I am looking to move to a real soldering station with more precise temperature control. HMC electronics has Metcal stations reasonably priced. Although I bought my SP200 off ebay and it has worked flawlessly.
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Feb 3, 2008 08:02
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Battle Bott posted:I would like to make a simple 3d mouse for my computer, it is not going to be used for anything needing accuracy, just as a little toy. I can handle the programming, it is the hardware I need help with. I would make it with a couple boom arms, with sensors at the joints. The sensors would not have to be sensitive, within a few degrees. Use some wiimotes to do this. You can find a 3d position by using 2 wiimotes. Have an IR led on a glove to find that points position. You could probably find a particular orientation by using 3 LEDs, but if you go with more LEDs you will probably have to figure out how to multiplex them. The easiest way would be to turn certain LEDs off for some fames. Tons of ways you could do this. I would use IR and multiple cameras.
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May 27, 2008 23:30
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Mr. Powers posted:http://www.mypic32.com/web/guest/home I just took a look at this and it looks like a decent contest. I question having so many entertainment prizes when it might make more sense to have sponsors offer test equipment. Tektronix giving away a 10K$ oscilloscope would be better than a home entertainment system. I'll probably go with an all in one low powered synthetic instrumentation setup. I see that a few people have similar projects, but they really don't take a general approach. I figure if I can get a few channels of DDS function generator outputs, some ADC inputs and some sort of internal mux it might work out. It would need to have useful functional equivalents for function/Arbitrary waveform generation, oscilloscope, volt, ohm, frequency counting, spectrum analyzer, something else I am probably missing. Tie this together with a GUI based instrument building program. Have it connect to PCs via ethernet. Support LXI triggers and IEEE timing.
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May 28, 2008 08:04
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dyne posted:Off hand, does anyone know of a cheap (<$30) and efficient 12V ~120W AC-DC power supply? Find a used computer parts store and see if you can find a laptop power brick close enough?
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May 30, 2008 02:56
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mofmog posted:I had an idea for a simple electronic organ but my main stumbling block seems to be finding suitable buttons. The design is going to be 12 oscillators (one for each note) with the output connected directly to a switch and then all the outputs will be mixed together and fed into an amp or speaker or something. My problem is that a lot of the buttons I've found are either too small, too expensive or too "heavy duty" for the job. An old radio shack kit organ I had before was just a simple piece of metal over a screw. Push on the end of the piece of metal and it bend down to contact the screw. Works pretty well as long as you aren't too rough with it.
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Jun 3, 2008 07:53
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:You could also use some SPI memory interface chips to access the array. You use 2-4 outputs as SPI to the interface chip, then 2 outputs to select the LED color. It looks like an 8k memory interface chip is running about $.35 on digikey. There are also LED specific drivers out there that use SPI. They have the advantage that they can maintain current and allow toggling instead of having to constantly pump an LED>
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Jun 25, 2008 22:04
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Zaxxon posted:ok this has been bothering me for a while, but do we have any kind of good tutorial on soldering Iron maintinance. My Iron gets this horrible black poo poo all over it and refuses to have anything stick to it really fast. I keep it tinned when it's off and I clean it frequently, but I end up having to literally scour it between uses, and even then I can only use it for like 1 hour before it becomes completely crap. What have you been scouring it with? I use a wet sponge to clean mine every few joints when stuff is just starting to build up. Every once in a while I use a plain copper pan scrubber with no soaps in it to get some of the more stuck bits off. Also to keep the tips lasting longer keep a coating of solder on the tip when stored or stopping for a while. It might be a case where the coating on your tip has oxidized a bunch.
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Jan 23, 2009 21:00
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ANIME AKBAR posted:Also, I've just been hired to do a feasibility report on a proposed project, and it's a pretty major one. Basically my boss wants to design devices that can be placed around my university's campus to form a wireless network, and will be integrated into the existing campus security network. Students will be given keyfobs that, when activated, transmit to the nearest node in the network. Each node has two purposes. The first is to sound its own siren, deterring any would-be offenders (we have occasional muggings). Also the network will propagate the alarm to the nearest campus emergency phone, where it will automatically call the dispatch center and, hopefully, transmit some information on where the alarm happened and who activated it. Is interfacing with the POTS emergency phones really needed? If someone is on one of the POTS phones you don't want them interfered with if someone hits a fob. Also someone being on the phone would interfere with the fobs ability to call home. A better way would be build a network parallel to the POTS system. Have an extra POTS line that calls the emergency center and sends back the corresponding correct phone information depending on where the fob is pressed. Then you can log it and everything else you might want to do to prevent abuse.
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Feb 23, 2009 19:55
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ANIME AKBAR posted:And none of this really addresses my original question, which is how I could interface a device to an existing phone line on the hardware level. I'm open to other means of transmitting data, but a few acronyms don't help me. I need to know more specifically how the interface might work. Well for starters get ready to enter the world of regulation compliance. You can't hook up just any old circuit to POTS lines. The FCC has strict requirements as to what can be hooked up. Most likely you will need to purchase a DAA and hang your circuit off of that. Cermetek makes some. Next you are going to need to run the proposed design across the schools attorney. I can guarantee that there are state regulations in your area about how safety systems like this have to function. Most likely you could just use a PIC w/ an internal DAC, a digital wireless reciever that can hook up to the pic over SPI and a power supply. Couple that to the DAA with a transformer. That said, this is a bad idea. You are making poor assumptions that potentially involve peoples lives. Delaying calls from phones or fobs presents avenues that people could use to disable the emergency system. Or poor design could end up delaying getting aid to someone.
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Feb 24, 2009 08:40
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rotor posted:I'm trying to figure out how to do this very simple thing and I was hoping y'all could help me stop burning voltage regulators. You need to put together a simple switching converter to do something like that. A linear regulator can only lower a voltage, not raise it. Maxim makes quite a few regulators of various kinds. I'd say put the batteries in in parallel-series pattern so you have about 2.5 volts coming off the pack at full charge. Use a MAX1705 to boost it up to 5v.
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Feb 24, 2009 09:00
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Mill Town posted:In related questions, what's the best way to get flux off a board? Tetraflouride works well if you don't mind cancer. You can also buy aerosol cans of flux remover that are safer.
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Feb 25, 2009 00:10
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Cyril Sneer posted:I'm having trouble understanding the purpose of FPGAs, and to what sort of problems they are applied. Cost or performance issues usually. With FPGA you can design the exact logical structures you need for an application. So if I can use a 1.50$ FPGA rather than a 5$ DSP I'm ahead. Or I could use them to interface certain devices to one another such as ram to a cabled PCIE interface. Glue logic basically. Or I could devote one part of the FPGA to application specific logic and the rest to operate as an ARM mcu. There are not always chips that interface to everything you want to hook up to so thats why fpgas are popular.
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Mar 12, 2009 07:28
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Anyone done anything with electroactive polymers? Specifically I have been looking at the dielectric style. These are made up of 2 electrodes that need to flex and stretch. Between those is a thin dielectric like silicone rubber for acrylic foam. These behave like a capacitor and the electrostatic force in the parallel plates causes the dielectric to deform and the plates get closer together. If you layered these up you could contract it a good distance, maybe 5% of normal length. The downside is that you need very high voltages to do it. On the order of 10-20KV. Not very much power though, a few milliamps. On the bright side, unlike the other polymer actuators you don't need to constantly power them. Only when they are doing work. As I see it in order to make these work I need some supplies. 2 part silicone is pretty easy to get. Need to be the soft kind that has some decent give to it. Some carbon grease and fine wire for the electrodes. And a HV dc power supply, which is pretty easy to do with a voltage multiplier. First problem is the dielectric properties of the silicone are important. If you have a superior dielectric property you can charge the actuator up more and it can exert more force before breaking down. I was thinking of adding a powered dielectric ceramic of some kind. Barium titanate seems to be the standard. No idea where I will get it though. I will probably try a couple things for electrodes but more than likely activated carbon will work. So anyone done any work with these before? They seem deceptively simple. Can anyone think of where I might need to improve my initial ideas? Ideas about how to make controlled height layers of silicone and carbon would be nice as well. I'd like to use these instead of RC servos eventually.
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Apr 19, 2009 06:31
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Snaily posted:You seem to know what you want, and I can't help you there. But in the same vein, have you or anyone looked at memory metal? I looked into them when I was thinking about minimal robots a few months back - it's fairly simple in theory: you heat filaments ohmically and they go back to their previous form providing movement, and you have some preload so that when you turn the current off the memory metal is forced away from its desired state again. I've thought about using it but it is pretty slow at going back to its normal shape. It has to cool enough and if I want it to contract quickly I have to put that much more heat into it. I've managed to get a copy of: Electroactive Polymers for Robotic Applications. Seems to give a pretty good overview what is needed and what attributes are important.
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Apr 19, 2009 18:48
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Peantoo posted:I'm looking to make something that heats a piece of metal to a specific temperature. Basically, I want to be able to push a button and something about the size of an eraser heats up to ~120F and stays there until I push the button again. I'd also like to make it so that it uses rechargeable batteries. Does anybody have any ideas on where I could start or what electronics knowledge I'd need to know? What are you trying to heat up and how specific does the temp need to be? Big difference between needing +- 10 degrees or .01 degrees. You could probably get a rough regulator going with a thermistor and op amp.
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May 8, 2009 02:40
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Keebler posted:I finally scrounged up enough money for The Art Of Electronics. Does anyone know if there is any sort of answer key available anywhere for the exercises? I'm not having trouble with any particular question, it would just be nice to check my work as I go through a few of the sections. I wouldn't really bother with the questions. Its nice a reference and for learning the basics but much of the details are out of date. The book was published in 89 and 3rd ed has been pushed back more than Duke Nukem Forever. Anyone know of a book that is a good as AoE but more recent?
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May 11, 2009 04:32
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scuz posted:Soldering iron/station question: All depends on what you want to spend. I have a metcal that I paid about 100$ for and its pretty decent.
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May 29, 2009 04:31
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ANIME AKBAR posted:I recently bought this soldering station off ebay. Hasn't arrived yet, but assuming it works as described, it'll be a sweet deal. Yeah, I know, off brand, engrish, etc. But similar capabilities with a brand like metcal or weller would cost five times as much. Good choice, I have that exact scope as well. The hot air pencil will really come in handy with SMD components. A good chunk of ancillary stuff, if you can get access to high precision measurement equipment, can be made. Amateur radio folks have tons of useful tools. Maybe start making a library of standards as well? Resistance, freq, etc. So when you don't have access to a decent lab you can still measure things well.
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Jun 2, 2009 01:42
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PainBreak posted:Can anyone tell me what this component is? Probably a filter of some kind. No way to know its value though with the instrumentation to measure it.
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Nov 25, 2009 17:51
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Acid Reflux posted:Is anyone familiar with the PSoC from Cypress Semiconductor? Through a somewhat odd series of events I've come into possession of quite a few PSoC-1 chips, a bunch of different development boards, a programming unit, and some other poo poo I haven't even positively identified yet. It's all cast-off equipment from a company that was developing a robot of some sort, but ultimately decided to go with another core system. [Insert odd series of events here] and then I ended up with all of it. Depends on what you want to do. PSoCs are basically FPGAs with analog and digital function blocks. So you can configure it pretty much any way you want. DIY avionics would be pretty interesting. You could probably make part of a lightning detector out of them. Radar altimeter. Passive TCAS. Or maybe for a start make a very small servo control for foam airplanes?
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Feb 10, 2010 10:34
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Corla Plankun posted:I went out and bought a weller soldering iron when I first read this thread and it is terrible. Metcal/OKI is what I use. You can find them cheapish on ebay for used ones. Tips are expensive but last if you take care of them.
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Feb 17, 2010 05:19
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RivensBitch posted:Ditching the chip is easier said than done, the PCBs are already printed and I've already built 50 units, half of which are sold and shipped. You could use the old boards with a new CPU but you are going to need to make an adapter board. Which shouldn't be too hard. You could make it single sided most likely and just have the uC sit upside down with straight header pins coming off the board. Its a bit of a kludge but would let you use whatever you think is the best uC regardless of its pinout.
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Mar 25, 2010 08:22
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Anyone have a decent resource for DIY mains transformers? Or a source for samples? I'd like to make something around 100W stepping from 120V AC down to 3 taps of 40v, 20v, 10v. Or maybe more if I'm making it. Haven't actually done the math yet. I don't really wind coils much and the last time I did it was years ago. That coil was 2KW, shook, smoked and buzzed angrily. Also if you didn't pay attention it would simultaneously burn and shock you. Mostly I just want to make an over engineered transformer that will be safe. ValhallaSmith fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Apr 12, 2010 |
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Apr 12, 2010 09:57
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