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Yeah the wife of one of the fab guys supposedly is posting in that thread and said her husband hadn't even finished the Tacoma bumper design and didn't want to even have it released under EO branding. Sounds like they weren't happy either. The shipping cost was suspect as they were flat fee $100 to ship anywhere in the US (and I'm on the west coast) whereas shops closer to me were quoting over $100 for shipping. And their base sale cost was also cheapest anywhere with their black friday sale. My total for HREW sliders with fill plate and no powder coat was $600 with shipping to California, which I believe was cheaper or at least similarly priced to any other option before shipping. Some other places I had looked maybe were that cheap when I first got my GX, but by the time I had ordered every other vendor on my list had already raised their prices significantly due to steel price increases. IIRC, other places were generally in the $800-1k+ range with shipping by that time. So yeah, with that pricing, they were extremely popular, especially with very early customers & people that know them (not just you FogHelmut) saying they're good people and that their work was good. "Where are our order" threads would pop up every few weeks on GXOR, and we were theorizing that the fact they were continuing to take new orders, run sales and quote impossible lead times indicated they had cash flow issues and that they needed the money from the new orders to try to complete the existing orders. Seems like that was correct. For a while the way to get your order seemed to be to dispute the charge, then all of the sudden your order was the next one out, but sounds like the past month or two they were too backed up for that to even get it done. Slow is Fast posted:I'm a local and have seen Derrick Snell shilling their poo poo everywhere, but he's been very quiet when tagged on GXOR. I don't like getting involved in anything but if any goons have anything I can do let me know. On my end I don't think there's much to do but wait to see what happens with the PayPal dispute. It sounds like they're not ever responding to them anymore so I should "win", but as has been mentioned it's not like they have the money anymore. I think PayPal might still refund due to their Purchase Protection regardless, but I'm not 100% sure how that works. That's my hope at least. If that's the case I'm sure they'll be dealing with at least 6 figures of dispute payouts, which might be enough to get their lawyers involved to try to recoup what they can rather than just writing it all off. No idea though.
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May 18, 2022 05:28
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FogHelmut, your friends may want to invest in a few hours of attorney time to figure out any potential liabilities / ability to recover any of their investment going forward, as it sounds like it's going to be a shitshow. In off-roading news, I got a winch (Warn Evo 10-S) for xmas that I probably don't need, but since I already have a CBI bumper that's winch-ready I'll go ahead and install it. It came with a hook, but I was talking to a group of 4runner guys I ran into and they convinced me I had to get a factor 55 flatlink or face certain death. I bought a flatlink, then met another group of Jeep guys who think flatlinks are a horrible idea for various reasons and had some winching setup that was more soft-shackle focused but I forgot the details. Apparently this is like asking what's the correct religion or brand of oil to use, but any thoughts on this? I doubt it's going to really matter for me as I don't anticipate a lot of winch usage, but I'll also be doing a lot of trails by myself rather than meeting up with groups so I need to be somewhat self-sufficient. I realize by yourself isn't always ideal, but at least I'm working on getting my ham radio license right now.
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May 18, 2022 20:50
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I think the push towards lighter winch rope ends (culminating in the recent push to just run soft loops) is all with the goal of reducing or eliminating as much metal in the pulling path as possible. Synthetic ropes / soft shackles, even if there's a catastrophic failure, just don't carry nearly as much energy with them when they go flying as a metal hook or rope. I've thought about it but $265, even for made-in-the-USA, is pretty steep for a chunk of aluminum.
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May 18, 2022 21:05
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I know absolutely nothing about winching, but I know that Colorado 4x4 Recovery and Rescue group uses a mixture of soft shackles and flatlink things, and they seem to know what they're doing when it comes to winches. The group seems pretty by the book and safety oriented, anyway. They don't appear to favor one over the other as far as I have noticed. The channel, in case anyone hasn't seen it and finds entertainment in offroad recovery stuff: https://youtube.com/c/Colorado4x4RescueandRecovery Justin King, one of the guys on that crew, posts longer less edited versions of the rescues as well: https://youtube.com/c/JustinKingOffroad
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May 18, 2022 21:09
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All of your friends are correct - the regular metal hook on a winch can shift or pop off, so a flatlink is safer, but using soft shackles is the most safest because there's no metal to go flying in event of failure. Soft shackles can fray and wear out from use, (plus they don't look nearly as badass) so if you're winching consistently than a flatlink is very convenient and durable. Personally I use soft shackles for two reasons - I dont winch enough to spend 300 dollars on a hook, and if I do use my winch I want it to be as safe as possible. You should already have a synthetic line, which removes the extremely dangerous steel cable from the winch, so its really a personal preference on what kind of hook you use. IIRC the Warn winch ships with a fairlead, which is the bit that prevents the winch line from shredding itself on the bumper, but you may want to look into a nicer one.
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May 18, 2022 23:39
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MomJeans420 posted:FogHelmut, your friends may want to invest in a few hours of attorney time to figure out any potential liabilities / ability to recover any of their investment going forward, as it sounds like it's going to be a shitshow. Believe it or not, I was having beers with one of them a 3 or 4 weeks ago, and he was literally wearing an Explore Overland hat, and he stepped aside for about 20 minutes because he was on a call with his attorney. I don't know for sure if it had to do with this, he runs a web and media services firm with many clients. As you can see, he did his part of the job quite well as the apparent influx of customers was beyond what Explore Overland was able to handle. In off-roading news, gently caress it I'm getting the BFGs. While the Cooper seem to be a better fit for my 90% use case, the c-load weight difference is negligable with the BFG, and the BFG looks cooler, and the downsides are minimal. Also reading that the Coopers can get noisy long term? Winching sounds cool. I don't have one and I don't think I'd want to drive around with one all of the time. I like the idea of a hitch mount winch to go either front or rear. Most generic front hitches seem to sit below the bumper though, which is bad. And all-in, its another $1-2k I don't need to spend right now.
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May 19, 2022 00:15
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FogHelmut posted:Most generic front hitches seem to sit below the bumper though, which is bad. And all-in, its another $1-2k I don't need to spend right now. I'd love to get a front hitch for that purpose too, but some of the ones that I've seen are basically a trailer hitch, mounted to the front (DUH!!) and sit *really* fuckin low on there, like dig in to the ground after your approach angle is decimated because of this thing low. I'd consider one that might be hidden in the bumper, but I don't like the idea of cutting (yet, maybe after my warranty expires) and if I do that, Its almost(?) maybe(?) worth my time to just get a front mounted winch? I have an ARB recovery point on my tacoma thats supposed to be good for about 17,000 pounds of pull. I've been kinda toying with the idea of how to mount a winch to that. If it stuck out a few inches further, or was a bit wider, I bet I could do something with it.
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May 19, 2022 01:40
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wesleywillis posted:If it stuck out a few inches further, or was a bit wider, I bet I could do something with it. Story of my life. Winches own. Get one. never know when it'll come in handy. receiver mount should pull right about center or just above the center point of the bumper once you get it all configurated.  
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May 19, 2022 01:47
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Hey, to winch forwards with a rear hitch mount winch you can spend like 2 hours setting up assorted snatch blocks and tree straps / anchors to do a reverse reverse pull. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVnbPNyLu_c&t=60s Hope rigging is your hobby and there are plenty of anchor points around.
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May 19, 2022 05:12
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drat! That video was dope as gently caress!
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May 19, 2022 11:53
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That grooved fairlead is pretty cool but yeah $265 is pretty steep, sounds like the flatlink is fine for now. I hadn't seen Colorado 4x4, they have some good videos. Kind of interesting to see just how many rolled vehicles they run into, which I would very much like to avoid doing.
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May 20, 2022 16:33
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Good video on trail etiquette https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0rjAapkPr4
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May 20, 2022 18:25
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Exhaust jacks any good? Adding bigger tires can make conventional jacks not tall enough. Adding a base/blocks under the jack isn't always useful because you might not be able to get low enough if you've had a complete blowout. Most vehicles with stock bumpers are worthless for a hi-lift jack.
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May 21, 2022 22:38
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If you had the choice between E lockers and air lockers, which would you choose? Lets assume they are from a reputable company. I'm not planning anything (yet, maybe in a few years) just curious. It seems like e lockers might be better because you don't need to have an air system on board, but I don't know anything about anything.
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May 22, 2022 04:05
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I think ultimately if they lock, I'd go with electric for simplicity's sake.
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May 22, 2022 04:31
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FogHelmut posted:Exhaust jacks any good? I would worry about punctures using one off-road. High-lift, and call it an excuse to do bumpers and sliders. wesleywillis posted:If you had the choice between E lockers and air lockers, which would you choose? I think Kastein had some awful experiences getting Eaton to provide parts support for one of their air lockers. I went with an ARB air locker in my rear axle and the only problems I've had have been the result of my home-brewed onboard air system (leaks, pressure switch failing open).
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May 22, 2022 05:25
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ARB air lockers have a reputation for seals failing, pressurising the diff and blowing your oil out the axle seals and ARB as a company have a reputation(at least in my circles) for charging like a wounded bull along with piss-poor customer service. TJM apparently don't but dunno if you can get them over there. Air lockers need a permanently mounted compressor and air tank which suits some people but also adds to the cost. If funds weren't an issue I'd go with air lockers front and rear with a good in cab compressor and an air tank somewhere to do dual duty for lockers and tyres, but there's nothing wrong with e-lockers instead. If you've already got a factory rear diff lock and only want to do the front, the e-locker will be way cheaper. I've used both and would be happy with either, air lockers can be a little bit faster to engage and don't unlock and relock switching from forwards to reverse but they're fine. There's also these sort of things (I think you lot call them detroit lockers?) which I'd happily run up front on anything with manual freewheeling hubs. Truth be told they're probably a better option for that specific setup anyway. Fair bit cheaper too and you don't even need to pull the diff centre out you just replace the spider gears. Not sure about what they're like on the rear, some say they're fine but I'd expect a bit of banging and likely be a bit sketchy in the wet.
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May 22, 2022 06:14
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Detroit lockers are an Eaton-made brand name for one of their full carrier replacement automatic mechanical lockers. They work on similar principles but it looks like Lokka is one of the many options that fits inside your existing carrier. I'm tempted to throw one in my front Dana 30 now that I have a 2Low so that if a front autolocker is causing me problems with steering, I can still stay in low range. I mean, I could just add an ARB but a Dana 30 is not worth paying to get one of those installed and set up.
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May 22, 2022 06:22
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Chevy puts the Eaton G80 in many of their trucks from the factory, especially if you have the tow package. It works, but it's not as smooth as having a selectable locker, and it's somewhat jarring when it kicks in. It will lock up when there is a 120 rpm speed differential between the left and right wheel. Because of this, it's not the same as turning on the locker with a switch. You won't necessarily be able to ease through an obstacle as you have to commit the throttle to get it to lock - but that's not as scary as it sounds. 120 rpm isn't as much as you think, and with some practice it's fine. It's a true full lock, it stays locked until you let off the gas, and it will help keep you from getting stuck.
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May 22, 2022 06:34
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IOwnCalculus posted:Detroit lockers are an Eaton-made brand name for one of their full carrier replacement automatic mechanical lockers. They work on similar principles but it looks like Lokka is one of the many options that fits inside your existing carrier. I'm tempted to throw one in my front Dana 30 now that I have a 2Low so that if a front autolocker is causing me problems with steering, I can still stay in low range. I mean, I could just add an ARB but a Dana 30 is not worth paying to get one of those installed and set up. Ah, ta. I've been waiting for lokka to finish development and get stock in for my ifs ute's front but covid sent everything awry. At the price I reckon it's well worth a try before committing 3-4x as much for selectable lockers.
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May 22, 2022 06:41
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FogHelmut posted:Chevy puts the Eaton G80 in many of their trucks from the factory, especially if you have the tow package. It works, but it's not as smooth as having a selectable locker, and it's somewhat jarring when it kicks in. It will lock up when there is a 120 rpm speed differential between the left and right wheel. Because of this, it's not the same as turning on the locker with a switch. You won't necessarily be able to ease through an obstacle as you have to commit the throttle to get it to lock - but that's not as scary as it sounds. 120 rpm isn't as much as you think, and with some practice it's fine. It's a true full lock, it stays locked until you let off the gas, and it will help keep you from getting stuck. G80s and Detroits are different mechanisms. Detroits (as well as that lunchbox locker) have teeth that interlock with each other when you're providing torque from the engine, but override each other (sometimes very loudly) during a turn. Essentially they're locked until forced to unlock during a turn. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkTHnsZmTQo G80s are unlocked until there's enough difference in wheel speed to force the mechanism to lock as you described, so as you mentioned it takes some slip to make them lock. They used to have a reputation for exploding but it seems like GM and Eaton have figured this out. I sure hope so because my Canyon has one  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7ue6zGOISQ Jeep and Dana had their own version of this on the WJ, using a gerotor pump in the differential that spins anytime there's relative motion between the wheels. It's a bit more of a limited-slip instead of a locker though, and from experience it doesn't lock hard enough that it can't be overpowered. ili posted:Ah, ta. I've been waiting for lokka to finish development and get stock in for my ifs ute's front but covid sent everything awry. At the price I reckon it's well worth a try before committing 3-4x as much for selectable lockers. If your ute is anything with any aftermarket support (or any common center section for the front diff), I'd be shocked if there aren't half a dozen lunchbox lockers out there for it already.
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May 22, 2022 06:59
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Interesting, I've heard the g80 being referred to as a "Detroit locker." Guess that guy I heard it from was wrong.
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May 22, 2022 07:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:If your ute is anything with any aftermarket support (or any common center section for the front diff), I'd be shocked if there aren't half a dozen lunchbox lockers out there for it already. I'm in aus, from my limited googling lokka are the only ones available down here. I spoke with them a while back and they were having supply chain issues. I've got an np300 navara which is ok for aftermarket but lags well behind that for the hilux and rangers. No rush anyway it's more of a when I get around to it type of mod.
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May 22, 2022 07:52
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lockers: Mechanical > electric > air Auto locker: torsen > detroit > clutch
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May 22, 2022 20:26
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Take this with a grain of salt but: Eaton - I have had several very bad experiences, friends who warned me to not buy their poo poo had bad experiences, do not buy their poo poo. ARB - good products, might pressurize your diff as noted but I view this as less of an issue than my Eaton issues and their parts availability is good. Detroit - an Eaton product, gently caress em Yukon - neutral opinion, haven't run em, haven't heard any really bad reviews OX - personally who I lean towards, about equal with ARB in my mind. Good parts availability, solid design, more annoying to route and protect a push pull cable but won't have elocker or air pressure issues, ever. Real downside is you have to run their cover instead of being able to choose your favorite. Now my story on Eaton: I had multiple friends tell me stories of not being able to buy parts and having reliability issues with Eaton elockers for years. Then a friend who had bought one used ended up selling his Jeep and had an elocker listed for a fire sale price. He couldn't find anyone to buy it. I offered to trade him a $130 explorer 8.8 he needed for it. He said no, it's free. I knew he had paid several hundred for it so I told him that was cool and all but the axle was free too then. I get the locker and it sits in the box a few years. Finally start getting ready to build my Honcho and figure I'll take it out and clean it up. I do so and notice that the locking ramp setup is pretty badly worn. This is a known issue with them. I tear it down to clean all the metal shrapnel out and realize the guy who sold it to him never told him it had had an axle spiral fracture inside one of the carrier bearing journals and beat the poo poo out of the journal so bad that it swelled enough to actually split the carrier bearing race. Okay, it's just a carrier end plate, I'll go buy one, easy. I go on the web and they don't exist. I look in the Eaton locker parts pdf and it doesn't exist. I call Eaton and the CSR helpfully informs me that "they don't sell that part because it would be just as much as buying a new locker anyways, would you like to place an order?" And I'm just like... No. Additionally they don't sell the parts piecemeal - just in kits. Any one part of your locking ramp mechanism fails? Congrats, you're buying the whole locking ramp kit, that'll be $164 oh and it's discontinued according to Google right now. Any one part in the stator and armature section that engages the locking ramp fails? That'll be $202 for the whole kit. Meanwhile I'm looking at OX's website and they sell any and all parts for their lockers, one at a time, you could buy the drat locker on installment plan one piece at a time if you wanted. The part I need, #11 in the diagram, is a whopping $67.60. https://ox-usa.com/product/dana-60-replacement-parts/ "as much as a whole new locker" my rear end. Even the bigger case half doesn't cost near as much as a whole new locker, it's part #1+7 and costs $318 combined for an OX. Meanwhile I've spent: $130 on the axle to trade for the locker $hours remachining my bearing journal back to round, center, and correct diameter because they wouldn't sell me a $60-80 part at any price $234 for the replacement spider and side gear kit (note, it had machining flaws that shouldn't have even passed qa, brand new out of the box) And I still need: $164 discontinued locking ramp kit if I can even find one on the shelf $202 electromagnet and stator kit That's $730 plus time for a home-repaired locker I can't buy a part for if it fails again, with a flawed design that is known to fail in use. Yeah, I'm kind of getting some buyers remorse here. I'll just buy a loving $1100 OX or ARB next time and sleep soundly knowing if I blow a part up, I can order one (and just one) off their website or by phone before the tow truck even arrives. gently caress Eaton. And for any Eaton brand image reps who see this, there is only one way you can get this post taken down. One, sell me the goddamn parts I wanted to buy so I can put this drat locker back together and immediately sell it to someone else, and two, look at that OX page I linked and put one up for parts for your product. I will not budge on this. I know the definitions of both slander and libel and this is neither as it is my own personally verified experience. I will not rest until I have either gotten you to sell parts piecemeal, or you have zero customers for your lockers. The only part of this I don't regret is giving my friend an 8.8 for it. Dude deserved to catch a break. kastein fucked around with this message at 20:34 on May 22, 2022 |
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May 22, 2022 20:31
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Most of the aftermarket electric lockers go through open when you go forward to reverse, whereas ARB lockers are locked all the time. This might not be an issue, but it's something to keep in mind when changing direction, you need to be mindful not to slam the locking pins if you're stuck and trying to rock it out.
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May 23, 2022 13:09
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E lockers (eaton and toyota) I've not had experience with, but the discussions I've seen on the more hardcore wheeling sites indicate they are less durable than an ARB or OX and can be finicky. More and smaller moving parts, solenoids that can go bad if not used frequently, etc. Probably fine for 99% of what most folks would want to do, but if you are running very difficult rock trails primarily, I'd probably avoid, but YMMV. ARBs have a great reputation as very strong full case replacement selectable lockers. Sometimes you have air seal issues, but that is typically setup error (although in recent years there were a batch of seals that were awful). If you have a small leak it just may cause the compressor to run more often, but you'll still be able to engage/disengage. I have a cable operated OX locker in the front of my main trail rig. Aside from occasionally having to adjust the cable (as easy as screwing/unscrewing the knob on the shifter a few threads) I've had no problems. If you have a problem with your cable, you can lock it in permanently on the trail. You can also get an air actuated or electric solenoid switch to engage the locker. I prefer the manual cable, as it seems like less to go wrong. I have had a detroit rear locker in the same rig with no issues other than the occasional bang and pop as it unloads sometimes. Can be interesting when that happens on the street! Anyway, one of the concerns folks have with the detroit locker is that the shock from a snapped axle shaft can break the locker itself. I'll have one in my 'new' rear dana 60 going in, but it will have 1.5" 35 spline chromoly shafts, so I don't expect to have any issues with them breaking. I don't have a ton of power and sticky 40" tires to worry about. I have a spartan 'lunchbox' locker in the front of my samurai and it's great so far. I've got a lockright waiting on my lazy rear end to install in the rear. Just like a lokka/aussie locker, for these types of autolockers, you just pull the diff, replace the spider gears with the locker and pop it back in. In a dana type diff, I think you can just pull the cover and get it done with minimal additional teardown. I would personally rather have a full time automatic locker in the front and a selectable in the rear if I had to have one of each, and as long as your steering can handle it. Selectables front and rear is typically the best option, but again, each have their drawbacks.
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May 23, 2022 20:58
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Cable > air properly installed = proper LSD = lunchbox > electric. My factory land cruiser the most perfect of all loving things Gods gift to offroading rear locker is the most finnicky loving pile of poo poo. The whole loving solenoid rusted out so we installed a cali one. And now the wiring is repeatedly being an issue. Before a ground that caused the locker to gently caress off, and now some mystery issue where ONLY WHEN WET it throws the locker and ABS light. I'm loving over it.
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May 26, 2022 02:38
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Welp. I ordered the BFG KO2s in C-load. Took it in today to have them installed. The tire guy called me saying that one of the tires was delivered without a whitewall. He said he was going to swap it out for another tire and it would take longer. I said that's fine because I was in conference calls for the entire afternoon anyway. I picked up my truck. I was in kind of a rush to go pick up my kid and I didn't check the tires in detail. I took a look at them when I got home and saw he had swapped them all out for E-load. I guess I'm going to have to take them back. Now I'm 16 lbs per tire over stock vs the 8 with the c. TBH the ride and noise doesn't feel any different than my aged Wranglers. But on the other hand, they do feel heavy and slow. And on the other other hand, I ordered the C-load and that's what I wanted and that's what I should get. They're swapping them out no problem except my time. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 19:09 on May 27, 2022 |
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May 27, 2022 03:23
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FWIW, I've always heard G80 described as Gov Lock (IIRC because it came in a buncha 80s GMC trucks?) and IMO its totally valid compared to ARB or an elocker. They're also awesome when it locks up on a big truck in the mud  I can't really speak to their durability personally but a good friend of mine had one in a 3/4 ton truck that he flogged regularly.
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Jun 1, 2022 03:35
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I just know G80s are also known as "gren80s", "gov-bang", and similar monikers and I've seen a ton of pictures of them turned into differential stew inside the case. Hopefully they're better now but in my area they're famous for exploding and taking out the entire carrier and ring and pinion with them.
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Jun 1, 2022 04:19
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 Great tires so far. Going to put 1000 miles on them in the next two days.
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Jun 1, 2022 05:50
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Ended up getting a full refund from PayPal for the EO sliders. Wonder if PayPal is just eating these costs for people that got their disputes in before the 180 days, or if they're actually getting this money back from EO. At this point I think I might just put this towards larger AT tires and revisit sliders next season. I'm still on stock size tires, but 6 months ago I had too much tread depth left to justify replacing the Defender LTX M/S that my GX came with.
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Jun 2, 2022 04:29
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Oh hey, another g80 doin g80 things! https://www.facebook.com/groups/939471713227124/permalink/1367793220394969/
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Jun 5, 2022 08:29
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I forgot about my post about lockers until now. Thanks for all the replies, very informative. Another question, what is selective or was it selectable locker and automatic locker? Is it: Selective= turn it on, its on, turn it off, its off? Does Automatic= "turn it on" but only locks when wheelspin/ x amount of difference in wheel speeds is detected and then shuts off when you're actually moving? Or something else?
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Jun 6, 2022 04:12
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Yep, that's it. Selective lockers are completely open differentials until you engage them, and then they act the same as a spool with both axles locked completely together until you disengage them. Autolockers you don't have any control over, they'll behave like open differentials until some condition is met (or vice versa, for lunchbox lockers and Detroits). Locker type within that determines when they lock, how hard they lock, and when they unlock.
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Jun 6, 2022 04:31
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Over 2000 miles logged on the BFGs over the last 5 days. Unfortunately, we did not get out on any trails in Moab as we were only there for the day and wanted to focus on the national parks. I was blown away by their highway performance, I think I only lost about 1 mpg with the bigger and heavier tires, but it's hard to say as I was driving into a headwind the entire trip back to California. I did go down one dirt road in Vail. I didn't bother airing down because it looked pretty smooth and there were minivans driving on it going to campsites, but then got to a pretty bumpy section and my back end started sliding out sideways with the vibrations. I looked at my air pressure and the tires were at 40 psi. I'm guessing this was the altitude? I was around 10k feet. My tires were 35 psi on all 4 corners at home - 700 feet or so above sea level - before I left. They were at about 38 on the highway through the desert on the way to Colorado. Anyway, I let out some air and was fine from there out. My Viair 88p struggled to get the tires back up, which I'm also assuming was due to the altitude. Its supposed to be good "up to 33" tires", while these are 31.7".
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Jun 7, 2022 05:36
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FogHelmut posted:Over 2000 miles logged on the BFGs over the last 5 days. Unfortunately, we did not get out on any trails in Moab as we were only there for the day and wanted to focus on the national parks. I was blown away by their highway performance, I think I only lost about 1 mpg with the bigger and heavier tires, but it's hard to say as I was driving into a headwind the entire trip back to California. I have a 380C, which is just a tiny bit more CFM than the 88P. I've never had it struggle, per se, but it does take quite a long time to fill my 33" tires on 16" rims. Thye're E-load tires, so I run them at 55psi, and it really isn't overly excited about airing up from, say, 15psi to 50.
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Jun 7, 2022 10:54
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Xpostin' from The Great Outdoors. Sorry not sorry about ur 56k its 2022 c'mon son. Took the shitbox out for a 5 day cruise of the general area behind my house. I had planned on camping at Cuyamaca Rancho State Park then Mt Laguna for some awesome mountain biking but that now requires permits to boondock, which I totally missed. Instead I headed out to Carrizo Badlands and spent a little time there. Swinging up the 6% I8-W grade and through a KOA for a night in not 100F temps, then back into storage. Round trip was a little over 300 miles. rolling over after sitting six months https://i.imgur.com/tnuBy3g.mp4 (You can ignore the oil pressure gauge, I need to pull the cluster and do some flex-pcb repairs and or potentially replace the flex-pcb) Bluejays! (maybe?)       While pretty, the campsite is very off level. Solar is poor, doesn't matter, won't be here long enough to deplete the batteries. Temps are in the 70s/21C during the day, 50s/10C at night. So many friggin bugs though. One bar of service is more than plenty  Onward to Carrizio!     I *really* wanted to ride this road cutting the canyon, with temps pushing 90F/32C by 8:30am it wasn't happening unless I was leaving at 5. Recorded max was 102F/39C.       Post ride gorbage. BLT+Onion+Gouda  Bike maintenance. Swapped out the rear wheel thats been dying a slow death. Freehub is eating itself and no longer available.  I8-W Cliiimb into the mountain to the KOA. Its still 100F/39C and there's no a/c in the truck.  (sound on for ~3000rpm idit noises) Climbed at 30-35 in 100F temps maintaining 210F-ish coolant temps. https://i.imgur.com/HxxMuwL.mp4  Temps here are more reasonable since its at elevation. There's some farm animals around to watch and pet. I've stayed at this KOA before, its one of the better ones I've visited. This time my bike isn't broken so I can get out and ride the trails here. More gorbage, yes     Get passed by another rver with more power than this old bucket  Everything came back up and worked without a hitch. The only two issues we had was forgetting to replace the fresh water hose so we were stuck with whatever was in the tank from six months ago(treated then, but not potable) and some dead batteries in the amplifier remote control. Oh, new engines down its first quart of oil.... in 2200 miles. Maybe next time I'll get the shitbox out earlier than once every six months, yeesh.
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Jun 7, 2022 17:01
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^^^ Some sweet scenery you've got there. Whats your (anyone's) opinions on "snatch wheels" vs regular snatch blocks? Something like this: https://www.ledlyy.com/products/win...AiABEgIFC_D_BwE Better? worse? I like the idea of lightweight gear, but I'm not an ultralight gear junkie type.
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Jun 7, 2022 17:56
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