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You always want to have a tow vehicle heavier than the sum of what you are towing, so maybe a mid 90s 5.2L Cherokee Laredo with the tow package (better trans cooler, rear end and springs I think) are great and are dead reliable if you remember to fill the trans with the proper dodge ATF. My best friend's 94 GC laredo made it 280K miles and 2 hard teenage drivers on it only with a transmission change at 200K, I think the wrong ATF killed it the second time but the engine was fine, passed smog, and drove great (minus trans) at 280K. Interior short of the seats stayed together pretty well, too.
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Feb 24, 2008 19:42
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Baby Hitler posted:You always want to have a tow vehicle heavier than the sum of what you are towing, so maybe a mid 90s 5.2L Cherokee Laredo with the tow package (better trans cooler, rear end and springs I think) are great and are dead reliable if you remember to fill the trans with the proper dodge ATF. My best friend's 94 GC laredo made it 280K miles and 2 hard teenage drivers on it only with a transmission change at 200K, I think the wrong ATF killed it the second time but the engine was fine, passed smog, and drove great (minus trans) at 280K. Interior short of the seats stayed together pretty well, too. Wait... The tow vehicle always needs to be heavier than what you are towing? Seriously? I just towed an 1100lb steel double axle UHaul trailer (with inertia brakes) with a '63 Fairlane on it (which I'm not sure about but I'm guessing it easily weighs 4,000lb... its pretty loving big and all steel). My truck has a class-IV load leveling hitch, heavy duty alt, batt, dual tranny coolers, oil cooler, Toyota Canada rear leaf springs (truck sits 1.5" higher than the stock TRD suspension and is stiffer).... I doubt my Tacoma Double cab weighs more than 5100lb... Or does it? It was perfectly fine, regardless (I was much more worried about the lovely trailer...). The truck does have a long wheel base though, like 130". I've also towed a Beetle on the same type of trailer, and once two jeeps on an even larger trailer (although that was just for a short distance in town as I'm pretty sure it was over the 7500lb rating of the truck). I've heard this statement before, I just don't think it is *always* true. We have a guy who delivers vehicles for us at work who has an F350 with a gooseneck trailer that he tows... uh... definitely more than the weight of that truck with (for sure...)
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Feb 24, 2008 20:03
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Disciple of Pain posted:I've heard this statement before, I just don't think it is *always* true. We have a guy who delivers vehicles for us at work who has an F350 with a gooseneck trailer that he tows... uh... definitely more than the weight of that truck with (for sure...) It's what I tell people who have no towing experience and want to to something ridiculous with their crappy vehicle. It isn't really true, but if your car isn't set up for towing it is good advice to follow.
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Feb 24, 2008 20:09
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Atticus_1354 posted:It's what I tell people who have no towing experience and want to to something ridiculous with their crappy vehicle. It isn't really true, but if your car isn't set up for towing it is good advice to follow. Oh ok, makes sense. Yeah I was about to post that I would not pull a 3000lb car on the trailer with a Wrangler, and most likely not with a Cherokee - unless it was a well equipped one that was well maintained and was pretty new. Even then, for multiple 100+ mile trips towing a car on a trailer you probably want something better, like a full size pickup (hell i wouldn't want to do that all the time in my truck, and it works just fine... But it is working it can handle it, but a full size domestic pickup with a diesel/big gas V8 would be a lot nicer.
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Feb 24, 2008 20:46
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Atticus_1354 posted:It's what I tell people who have no towing experience and want to to something ridiculous with their crappy vehicle. It isn't really true, but if your car isn't set up for towing it is good advice to follow. It is certainly amazing what people will try to tow with their little cars. Clearly with a properly set up vehicle towing a trailer weighing more than your vehicle is fine, pretty much any tractor-trailer rig or dual rear wheel pickup towing a large fifth wheel falls in to this category, but those are typically being driven by people who know how to tow, properly load their trailers, and don't drive like idiots. Compare this to the average person who hitches up a U-Haul trailer to their daily driver... I've had to explain to many friends why it's not a smart idea to tow much more than a few ATVs behind pretty much anything FWD. They immediately come back saying that's why they got a SUV, then I have to explain how their CR-V or Highlander is a really tall car and if they wanted to tow RWD and a solid rear axle should have been priorities.
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Feb 24, 2008 20:58
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Disciple of Pain posted:Wait... The tow vehicle always needs to be heavier than what you are towing? Need? Nope, I have towed some insane poo poo with my old 91 Toyota pickup (5500lbs once with that 2600lb truck), but for someone driving a normal height trailer with a car on it (top heavy), likely no active trailer brakes, and likely little experience would definitely benefit from the stability that a heavier tow vehicles with specific towing upgrades. The Grand Cherokee still got 20mpg with the AWD, 5.2L engine, and A/Ts on the highway if you went 70mph, and I think towing was still 17-ish, which is the same as I got towing 2500lbs with my short bed 1/2 ton 4 cylinder stick toyota pickup. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Feb 24, 2008 |
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Feb 24, 2008 22:19
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wolrah posted:It is certainly amazing what people will try to tow with their little cars. I can understand why they do it (to stop the aforementioned towing idiocy), but it's bloody irritating to have to sit down and work it all out if I want to tow something, and doubly so given that it's the trailer's maximum laden weight, not it's actual weight that counts - so if I have a trailer with a 2-tonne capacity, I still can't tow it with my 1.6 tonne 4x4, despite it only actually carrying a tonne or so at the time.
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Feb 24, 2008 22:48
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I wish we had regulations along those lines. Not the thing about maximum laden weight (though I guess that's probably just to make enforcement easy), but not allowing base license holders to tow more than their car weighs would be great. Of course it would probably put U-Haul out of business (then again they could probably just get exemptions like I believe they have for their larger trailers to still have surge brakes), but meh. I've been a long time supporter of putting stricter limits on what people can drive with our uselessly stupid basic driving tests. Being able to drive is too important to our economy for the driving test to be made much harder unfortunately, so I figure keeping the average idiot out of the driver's seat of 3+ ton trucks, anything with a large trailer, huge RVs, etc. until they prove they can handle something that large is the next best thing. This is coming from someone who has quite a lot of seat time in a 38 foot Freightliner-based RV and tows cars every now and then, I'd be first in line to test for the license upgrade.
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Feb 24, 2008 23:17
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Disciple of Pain posted:Oh ok, makes sense. Yeah I was about to post that I would not pull a 3000lb car on the trailer with a Wrangler, and most likely not with a Cherokee - unless it was a well equipped one that was well maintained and was pretty new. Even then, for multiple 100+ mile trips towing a car on a trailer you probably want something better, like a full size pickup (hell i wouldn't want to do that all the time in my truck, and it works just fine... But it is working it can handle it, but a full size domestic pickup with a diesel/big gas V8 would be a lot nicer. I would not recommend anyone ever doing it though, it was mega squirrely and could not get out of it's own way. I'd absolutely tow a a few jetskis, or motorcycles, or a utility trailer with a bunch of crap on it though.
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Feb 25, 2008 00:35
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Octavio Barnaby Sr. posted:A Wrangler will tow a 3,000 pound car, I pulled my Nissan about 20 miles behind the 2.5l 5spd that I now own. Well, it sounds like he'll be towing 100+ miles fairly often. Like I said, I wouldn't do it.
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Feb 25, 2008 00:51
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miklm posted:I have a question... I've wanted a Jeep for quite a while, just an old beater. How are Jeeps for moderate/light towing? Could a 4.0 Wrangler or Cherokee (not Grand Cherokee) pull, say, an aluminum trailer with a <3,000 lb car for up to 100 miles or so, maybe 200 max? I would advise AGAINST towing a car on on a car-dolly with the small Cherokee. They are awfully light in the rear end-end and towing something like a car would be asking for trouble. Now, I have towed a Dodge Caravan about 15 miles with my 1984 Cherokee and a tow-rope. But even that was asking for some kind of trouble. Anyone have the towing caps for the various small Cherokees??
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Feb 25, 2008 02:52
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No pictures on this page yet? Shame on you. I just remembered these, from when the newspaper sent me out to shoot some offroad meet. On the trail.  VROOM! gently caress you, hill!  *snap* Oh shi--  Went charging up, broke the driveshaft, and came tumbling back down. Luckily the broken driveshaft stuck in the ground and stopped him before he hit the bottom and flipped over backward.
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Feb 25, 2008 02:52
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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I've towed several Ford Probes around with a 91 Cherokee Pioneer (Or is it a 90? I can't remember) with over 280k miles on it, with no issues. In excess of 150 miles at least one trip. The only issue it had was the obvious gas mileage issue.
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Feb 25, 2008 03:15
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Slack3r posted:I would advise AGAINST towing a car on on a car-dolly with the small Cherokee. They are awfully light in the rear end-end and towing something like a car would be asking for trouble. Now, I have towed a Dodge Caravan about 15 miles with my 1984 Cherokee and a tow-rope. But even that was asking for some kind of trouble. Anyone have the towing caps for the various small Cherokees?? 5000 lbs with the I6, I wouldn't tow a drat thing with an 84 though.
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Feb 25, 2008 05:07
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Delivery McGee posted:
My god, that makes me want to scream "I AM MAN."
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Feb 25, 2008 05:34
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ZippySLC posted:Now, reading the JK forum, I've found that people are having issues with the swaybar disco not reconnecting. I haven't tried it on mine yet (oh, yah, I bought an Unlimited Rubicon the other day) but I'm sure it's probably broken on mine as well. It's a Jeep thing... I don't see why you WOULDN'T want an electronic disconnect. I put it back while I'm on the dirt access roads and then disconnect it again when I get to another trail or obstacle. Why get out of the vehicle constantly when it's freezing out? PS this:  Broke a U-joint and yoke this weekend on some rocks. These rocks:  Aran posted:To be a MAN! RAWR! titler fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Feb 25, 2008 |
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Feb 25, 2008 20:22
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Pacific Rim Job posted:I haven't had any problems. If you're on uneven ground it won't reconnect right away, and the dash light will blink at you until it manages to do so. Moving somewhere flatter always works so far. To be a MAN! RAWR!
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Feb 25, 2008 20:26
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I almost forgot: while I was waiting for the portajohn at the offroad course this weekend, some lady with 2 young children walked over to wait. They were with some Hummer dealer group, who had handed out fancy lanyard nametags and was catering in the parkinglot. The young boy asks his mother why there are so many Jeeps, she replies she does not know. Then this gem: "I thought Jeeps couldn't go off-road like Hummers. Can they, Mommy?" She replies, "I don't know." Now I'm not anti-Hummer or rabidly pro-Jeep or anything, but I couldn't hold my tongue. I responded to him that yes, Jeeps do work just fine offroad, just like a Hummer. "Do they go over rocks?" he asked, incredulous. "They sure do. In fact, they're usually a little better at it because they're smaller." (I didn't want to explain what 'shorter wheelbase' meant to a 5 year old.) "Do they go in the ocean?" That was when I left to go pee. I wonder if he thinks Hummers work in the ocean.
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Feb 25, 2008 21:29
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Pacific Rim Job posted:"Do they go in the ocean?" Maybe he was thinking of that Commander (I think) commercial
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Feb 25, 2008 21:41
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Maybe he was thinking of that Commander (I think) commercial You're probably thinking of the H2 (I believe) commercial where the guy talks about how many options he was able to get (then lists them) and says something like "But I couldn't just stop there! HURRRRR" and drives off a dock. Then the wheels flip horizontal and sprout propeller-like fins, and he "drives" off underwater, 007 Lotus-style. Also, I watch too much TV. Edit: grammar
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Feb 26, 2008 02:06
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Oh yeah, that one too. I was thinking about the commercial where they drive up onto the beach from the ocean.
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Feb 26, 2008 04:36
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The correct answer to the question is "Yes, Jeeps can drive underwater." I must say though, if my dad had a Hummer when I was little, it would basically be the coolest thing ever. My dad had a rubber mats and vinyl seats S10 Blazer 4x4 when i was little, and after spending a day dragging hurricane felled trees off of our land with it after Hugo, I was convinced that my dad was a badass and his truck could drive up a building. I can only imagine how cool a Hummer must look to a little kid.
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Feb 26, 2008 05:00
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Aran posted:To be a MAN! RAWR!
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Feb 26, 2008 05:17
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Slack3r posted:I would advise AGAINST towing a car on on a car-dolly with the small Cherokee. They are awfully light in the rear end-end and towing something like a car would be asking for trouble. Now, I have towed a Dodge Caravan about 15 miles with my 1984 Cherokee and a tow-rope. But even that was asking for some kind of trouble. Anyone have the towing caps for the various small Cherokees??
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Feb 26, 2008 17:07
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Octavio Barnaby Sr. posted:I wouldn't want one because it would piss me off a lot when it broke 10 years down the road and a new one was impossible to find because everyone else's had broken as well. Yeah because it's really hard to get parts for Jeeps. They're all super rare and no one makes aftermarket or anything. You could just remove it and do it the old-fashioned way, or buy an aftermarket electronic disconnect to replace it. I wonder if it's covered under the lifetime drivetrain warranty. Probably not, but you might get them to do it anyway.
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Feb 26, 2008 17:17
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Recently bought a 1985 Cherokee Laredo I'll get pics when I can, Its a 5 speed with CommandTrac 4x4, and actually has power locks and windows. I love it
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Feb 26, 2008 17:31
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Can you get an X or Sahara with the 4.10 gears, 4:1 transfer case, and lockers?
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Feb 26, 2008 17:33
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I bought my Wrangler used in Feb. 06. It's an '02 SE 4-cylinder with a soft top. I love it to death, except for the loving soft top. I can't afford a hard top (and don't know if I'd want one anyway). My problem is, the two oval openings at the top of my windshield into which the front of the soft top clips were really worn down by the previous owner. The grooves are so bad that I can't even get them to clip any more, so the only thing keeping the top attached to my Jeep are the plastic blades running around the borders. I'm going to need a new soft top eventually...actually, I need one right loving now but can't afford that, either. My rear windscreen's zipper is absolutely hosed and being held on solely by Gorilla Tape. It's extremely ghetto but it's all I can do right now. Once I do find a new soft top, what (if anything) can I do to repair/replace the openings for the front clips?
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Feb 26, 2008 17:54
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The Midniter posted:Once I do find a new soft top, what (if anything) can I do to repair/replace the openings for the front clips? Duct tape. Seriously. My ex's TJ had issues with her top not sealing completely in the front so I put duct tape on the hooks. It basically put more distance between the hooks and the top of the openings and created a nice tight seal on the top. Not the prettiest, but if you use black duct tape and do it nicely, you can hardly tell.
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Feb 26, 2008 23:52
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Braincloud posted:Duct tape. Only in a Jeep. 
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Feb 27, 2008 17:29
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Fuelslt1 fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Nov 28, 2018 |
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Feb 28, 2008 05:31
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GIJoe posted:Not exactly. You can now get optional 3.73 gears (standard with towing package), no 4:1 t-case option, and a rear locker only. Sway bar disconnect is now available, as well as a Rear limited slip differential. My 2007 Sahara has 4.10 gears and LSD which were standard in the tow package. I bet they lengthened the ratio to 3.73 because of the crappy gas milage.
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Feb 28, 2008 07:43
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Welp, it finally happened. After 2 years of debating whether or not to do an axle swap on my TJ, the D35 c-clip broke while I was going around a curve near my house at 2 in the morning. I was able to hop out fast enough to catch the tire and what was left of the axle shaft as it rolled past the jeep and before it rolled into traffic. I knew something was wrong with it, and I was trying to nurse it home so I could look at it in the morning, but the axle had other plans. I don't even wheel the drat thing because I've heard so many horror stories about 35's, and I'm only running 31s. The worst abuse it's ever taken is when I go to my friend's cabin, or when we take GW Nat'l forest to go car camping and kayaking in the summertime. What makes it even worse is that I actually bought a Ford 8.8 and the bracket kit last month. I was saving up for the SYE, gears, and CV driveshaft to do when the weather improved, but now I'm not sure what to to do, because I need the drat thing driveable in order to get it to my friend's garage where the axle is, which is about 60 miles from here. I'd hate to pay to get it driveable, only to replace the rear anyway in a few months. Unfortunately, it's not going anywhere unless it's on a flatbed or a trailer. I can't wait to see what this is going to cost having to do it through a shop.
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Mar 1, 2008 10:51
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Get AAA. I think it's like $60 for unlimited tows up to 100mi.
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Mar 1, 2008 16:24
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Since this is a Jeep megathread, I suppose that this is as good place as any to ask about buying one. I would like a Comanche or a Cherokee with the 4.0 liter, manual, 4 wheel drive. What are years to avoid, what are common issues, and what should I look for when buying one (other than rust, which is to be expected in Michigan), and what can I expect to pay for a good runner (roughly)?
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Mar 2, 2008 06:06
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Get a 92+ Cherokee. It has the 4.0 HO engine. The best year to get is the 99 Cherokee, since that has all of the updates to the body and interior, and the best motor. The 00-01's have problems with the heads cracking. Expect to pay from $2-7k depending on year, options, mileage, etc. I paid $2k for my old 90 Cherokee which had bad u-joints and some rust, but ran great.
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Mar 2, 2008 09:07
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It seemed to be an isolated problem on the first batch of the new head design. I have yet to see an '00/01 have a head failure, and I have six in my immediate family, two over 300k.
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Mar 2, 2008 10:24
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My 00's only problem is, as my OBDII scanner tells me "MISFIRE CYLINDER 01/06" with 18xk miles on it
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Mar 3, 2008 21:59
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I'll try to take some pictures of my 1985 Cherokee Laredo when I get home. Picked it up for $1000 and its in awesome condition for its age, but the V-6 in it it shortly going to be replaced, right now its just a debate of what engine to use: Engines I'm looking at: Chevy V-8 6.2l Diesel Chevy V-8 6.5l Diesel Mazda RF I4 2.0 Diesel VW 1.8 I4 Diesel Choices choices.....and crossposting in my own thread!  EDIT: F'in V-8....not V-6
CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Mar 4, 2008 |
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Mar 3, 2008 22:24
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Here are a few pics from my brothers last wheeling trip. He went to Crozet in Virginia with some of the guys in the club. His is the blue Toyota.   Heres a short video of my brother laying the Yota on it's side. http://good-times.webshots.com/video/3096217510084447596QdMNra
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Mar 4, 2008 00:47
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