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Thanks, Krakkles. The ground on the back of the motor looks fine, I've pulled at the braided steel and it hasn't corroded off at the motor. I have previously recrimped the end that goes to the firewall because that dude corrode through at one point and cause issues. As far as the wiring harness, on the 99 I have, the IAC pigtail loops into the fuel injector harness and immediately routes around the firewall. I did not see any damage to that, but I'm going to break it open tomorrow and go through it more thoroughly to look for additional damage. Thank you for the information about the ebay vendor. If I have to go that route, I'll see if they have what I need.
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Dec 31, 2020 17:52
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2000 Cherokee, blows air fine but never gets hot. (At best it’s “slightly warmer than ambient”) Heater core? Is there anything else I should be looking at?
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Jan 3, 2021 21:10
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Krakkles posted:2000 Cherokee, blows air fine but never gets hot. (At best it’s “slightly warmer than ambient”) Heater valve, heater valve cable, blend door?
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Jan 3, 2021 21:53
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sharkytm posted:Heater valve, heater valve cable, blend door? Edit: Ding ding ding! I pulled it out, keyed on, it clicks (but doesn't move) while dial is set to hot, stops clicking when set to cold. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Jan 3, 2021 |
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Jan 3, 2021 22:18
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That's a 99+ improvement - 97 and 98 got the same bullshit push pull cable that 96- did, just updated a little. The electric one fails sometimes but at least it's pretty easy to fix IIRC, you slap a new one in. Careful taking the screws out, I seem to recall the plastic is pretty brittle these days and one of the screws isn't very easy to find, feel around for it before just yanking on things. Just set a personal record - an aw4 output seal I bought for my white 96 XJ in January 2010 just got put in the trans I'm about to swap into my blue 88 MJ. Was only on the shelf for 11 years...
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Jan 4, 2021 00:06
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Just as a follow-up, I haven't found anything broken/damaged in the harness. Going to see if a new PCM resolves this issue I'm having.
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Jan 4, 2021 00:55
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New PCM on and my Jeep idles. For about three minutes worth of drive time. The idle started climbing and I shut it down only to realize I had thrown the old IAC back in. Swapped out the IAC for the one I had previously purchased that made no difference and the idle improved significantly. Took about a mile worth of driving to get back to ~800rpm idle. The fuel gauge immediately came back as well. Krakkles, thanks for the vendor recommendation. A+ so far.
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Jan 15, 2021 01:02
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Nice! Yeah, they seemed very on top of stuff, I was very happy with that purchase. My old PCM turned out not to be the problem, of course, but now I've got the new one from them in the Jeep and a spare of questionable value in the garage. (Questionable because the odometer is, I believe, set by the PCM, and CARB will lose their poo poo if my car at some point loses 30k miles between tests, but ... at least if something happens, I can get it back up and running quickly?) That heater blend door appears to have been the problem - when I put the new one in, it moved as expected. I absolutely could not get the plastic gear that interfaces between the actuator and the blend door out, but it still worked, soooo ... whatever. Thanks, sharkytm!
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Jan 15, 2021 20:41
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Krakkles posted:Nice! Yeah, they seemed very on top of stuff, I was very happy with that purchase. ODO is kept in the cluster. I don't think the PCM keeps a copy of milage. My 2001 was a victim of a cluster swap/odo rollback. Cluster shows 160k but its more 240k. Car fax showed it going to auction at 210k and the next register was 120k. I've used every scan tool I could get my hands on to see if the PCM could tell me the true mileage and haven't been able to yet. Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Jan 15, 2021 |
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Jan 15, 2021 21:13
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It's actually in both (according to my jtec tuning guy), but the one in the ECU is irrelevant except possibly if emissions scanning gets it, but I don't think it does. There are functions in the Chrysler dealer tools (DRB3 and similar) that can do ECU to panel and panel to ECU copies.
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Jan 15, 2021 23:53
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I have an '01 XJ, 4.0L Laredo (forget the Transfer case name but it's the one with everything from 2WD to 4-Lo) and it seems like the fuel filler neck has gone bad (Large EVAP leak code and gas pisses out ot the tank after filling to a certain point). Does anyone know the part # for the fuel filler neck? I can't figure out what it is on Rockauto.
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Jan 19, 2021 12:11
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Should be under fuel and air -> fuel tank filler neck.
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Jan 19, 2021 13:17
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kastein posted:It's actually in both (according to my jtec tuning guy), but the one in the ECU is irrelevant except possibly if emissions scanning gets it, but I don't think it does. There are functions in the Chrysler dealer tools (DRB3 and similar) that can do ECU to panel and panel to ECU copies. I might have to see if I can track down someone local with a dealer tool access. I'd really love to know the actual mileage on my 2001.
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Jan 19, 2021 21:00
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I forget where you are, but he and his business partner are in/around the El Segundo area.
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Jan 19, 2021 22:51
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My wife "inherited" for better words, a 2014 Wranger with the lovely 3.6 V6. It's currently puking oil everywhere. A quick search shows the oil filter/cooler housing cracks and requires removing the UIM. Is there anything I should do "while I have it apart"? Any other seals/gaskets to change?
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Jan 19, 2021 23:11
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the spyder posted:My wife "inherited" for better words, a 2014 Wranger with the lovely 3.6 V6. It's currently puking oil everywhere. A quick search shows the oil filter/cooler housing cracks and requires removing the UIM. Is there anything I should do "while I have it apart"? Any other seals/gaskets to change? Our 2016 JKU did this in 2017 lol Chrysler. To be fair, the dealer covered it under warranty with quick turnaround and I never had any other problems with it.
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Jan 20, 2021 00:21
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Did some air system work on my CJ7 over the weekend. I've had a york on board air setup for about 5 years, but never tied it to my air lockers. After a recent issue with the mini-compressor used for the lockers i decided to tie the two systems together. Picked up the ARB manifold of a guy that wrecked his TJ and gave me a bunch of extra ARB stuff he had (around 50' of tubing, bunch of the BSPT fittings, and a few spare solenoids) for like $35 a few years ago (thanks dude!) What i did here was tie in the york (on the pass side) with some 1/4" yellow tubing from mcmaster and a set of check valves, then i plugged the one port of the ARB compressor's mini-manifold that's built into it and ran a stub line to the manifold (there's a check valve in line too) This means that either air system can run my lockers, and neither of them can backfeed the whole system or if one fails i can use the other and not worry about leaks: 
Dacheat fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Jan 25, 2021 |
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Jan 25, 2021 16:01
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I love it. I wish there was some form of OBA between "electric compressor" and "York". Something engine driven but much smaller than a York so that you wouldn't need to re-engineer the entire belt drive system, just use a second belt or put it in place of the idler or something.
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Jan 26, 2021 16:04
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That gives me an idea, you could pretty easily run a small compressor off the serpentine belt if you just rode it on a convenient spot instead of actually getting any belt wrap, kinda like the old bicycle headlight wheel powered generators. You'd need to put some kind of a clutch and pressure sensor on it or an overpressure blow-off valve though.
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Jan 26, 2021 18:37
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IOwnCalculus posted:I love it. Hydraulic? Tee off the power steering like some of the superwinches back in the day.
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Jan 26, 2021 18:46
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kastein posted:That gives me an idea, you could pretty easily run a small compressor off the serpentine belt if you just rode it on a convenient spot instead of actually getting any belt wrap, kinda like the old bicycle headlight wheel powered generators. You'd need to put some kind of a clutch and pressure sensor on it or an overpressure blow-off valve though. I may have daydreamed about (but never gone any further) the idea of starting with a four-stroke weed whacker engine, so you have an oiled crank case with good air cooling capability. Ditch the cam, replace the head with a flat piece with two reed valves in it, stick an A/C clutch on the now-input-shaft.
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Jan 26, 2021 20:14
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That's honestly not a bad idea at all. You could probably use a much smaller clutch than that to improve packaging, too, wonder if there are any good options for pirating one from. Maybe an air injection pump off something?
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Jan 27, 2021 00:52
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kastein posted:That's honestly not a bad idea at all. You could probably use a much smaller clutch than that to improve packaging, too, wonder if there are any good options for pirating one from. Maybe an air injection pump off something? Fab Rats on youtube mentioned using a 2 cylinder AC compressor off a 60s Chrysler.
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Jan 27, 2021 01:07
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rifles posted:Fab Rats on youtube mentioned using a 2 cylinder AC compressor off a 60s Chrysler. That's probably a York compressor. They're great, just expensive and large.
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Jan 27, 2021 05:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:That's probably a York compressor. They're great, just expensive and large. Looking into it, it's an RV2 aircon compressor which is the same thing on my Polara. It's a v-twin piston pump with its own sump. I could see it being pretty drat good.
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Jan 27, 2021 15:26
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What’s this thing under my steering column? While working on something else, key on, that thing was painfully hot. Which seems wrong. (2000 Jeep Cherokee 4x4,4.0,Auto)
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Feb 22, 2021 04:22
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Steering and shifter interlock solenoid. Not sure how hot they're supposed to get but they do warm up.
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Feb 22, 2021 04:59
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Works for me - thank you. I'll measure the temp next time I turn it on, but it's still working and I don't need more crap to fix. I've been working on something that I want to post updates about, but I keep finding other poo poo. Upside, fixing poo poo, downside, I'm tired of finding poo poo to fix!
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Feb 22, 2021 05:16
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Krakkles posted:Upside, fixing poo poo, downside, I'm tired of finding poo poo to fix!  My TJ turned off its CEL for the evap leak today. The code still exists if I pull it in Torque but the light is off and all OBD2 status monitors say "ready". I have no idea why but if it stays off through the summer I am getting it emissioned the second I get the renewal notice in my hands.
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Feb 22, 2021 05:19
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Anyone know any good dashcams for 2006 model wranglers? I have a soft top and I'm looking for a good quality dashcam that also has a rear facing camera anything under $500 is ideal. From what I've heard some are better than others with wranglers because of the wiring required but I don't really know where to start. Also looking to install a touch screen stereo and looking for suggestions on that as well if anyone has ideas on what would fit well. Any work done would be by an actual mechanic since I'm bad at pretty much all mechanical stuff and price more or less isn't a concern as long as it's not absurdly costly.
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Feb 22, 2021 23:17
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Are you wanting to record the interior, or out the rear view? If the latter it seems like you'd need a dashcam that can be mounted to the rear rollbar, which would be unusual since most are meant to just stick on glass in some manner. Wiring-wise it seems like you could easily tuck the wiring from the front cam to the rear (in that scenario) underneath the padding for the rollbar. Wiring from the front camera to the fuse box is pretty trivial, especially since you actually have some interior trim to hide the wire behind.
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Feb 22, 2021 23:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:Are you wanting to record the interior, or out the rear view? If the latter it seems like you'd need a dashcam that can be mounted to the rear rollbar, which would be unusual since most are meant to just stick on glass in some manner. Wiring-wise it seems like you could easily tuck the wiring from the front cam to the rear (in that scenario) underneath the padding for the rollbar. Wiring from the front camera to the fuse box is pretty trivial, especially since you actually have some interior trim to hide the wire behind. There are lots of "backup cams" that go on the spare mount, around the brake light. Haven't seen many of the recording cams that way, but haven't really looked, either.
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Feb 23, 2021 00:43
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https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Car-DVR...4E44T3BZWJA8HZT Apparently automotive DVRs are totally a thing, although this doesn't have RCA inputs as I thought. Not sure what cameras look like there. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Feb 23, 2021 |
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Feb 23, 2021 00:50
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Swapped the H1 steering box in my CJ7 with a PSC big bore as the sector shaft bearings were going after only 7500mi. I'm getting tired of re-manufactured garbage: Old vs new:  And of course the 5 year old bourgenson steering shaft was hosed so that's another $250-ish to replace that, lower column bearing is shot as well: Any clue how i can get that remaining inner race off? might be dremel territory, can't get a puller or die grinder in there as it's under the brake booster. 
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Feb 23, 2021 15:56
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It's only like 6 bolts and a few screws and connectors to pull the column and do it on the bench - I'd go that route probably. The most annoying part was the 4 bolts at the firewall plate.
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Feb 23, 2021 22:37
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I need some advice on the lift kit for my 2016 JKUR. I got this Rubicon Express 3.5" kit Part RE7145M but the high-steer kit was on backorder, and it's still not available anywhere I can find online. There are places that list it in stock, but when I have called them to actually have them check their shelf, they all reply they actually don't have it on hand. There were a few on eBay, and I ordered a couple, only to be met with refund emails and they don't have them in stock. The high steer kit is this one, Part RE2621. My question is, can I use a high-steer kit from another manufacturer? AEV has this one and this place looks like they've got several. Am I missing something, or do I need to go with the RE part to match the rest of the lift?
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Feb 24, 2021 21:18
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You can absolutely use a different brand, just make sure it's sized appropriately / the geometry matches. (Probably something like: 'for lifts between 3" and 5"') My lift is assembled from far more than two brands.
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Feb 24, 2021 21:40
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Replaced lower control arms, track bar, drag link/ends, tie rods, steering stabilizer and sway bar bushings and end links in the 04 wj. One side for that lower control arm was a PITA even with the come along. Given a couple mishaps it has had doesn't surprise me.
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Feb 27, 2021 23:57
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C-Bangin' it 
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Could too-high-wattage bulbs cause my high beams to not work, while the low beams are fine, or do I just have bad bulbs? Low beams work normally, high beam switch turns the lights off. (2000 Cherokee, has the Putco headlight harness) Krakkles fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Mar 2, 2021 |
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Mar 2, 2021 04:04
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How much above normal wattage did you go? Checked fuses and/or for power at the bulb connector?
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Mar 2, 2021 05:56
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