|
Got the new brake booster in! Wasn't really an issue except for one bolt right next to the steering column that was an absolute bitch to reach. Nothing was seized, which is a miracle. Feels like I just put in new brakes. So much better.
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2023 00:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 16:06 |
|
|
Crossposting from the schad thread, but uhh what makes a Jeep do this? https://i.imgur.com/SQFwy0h.mp4
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2023 03:19
|
|
|
Shrink it under heat and pressure until it's around 1:18 scale then add lipo.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2023 03:20
|
|
|
Well now that’s what I call suspension of disbelief. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2023 04:32
|
|
|
Lord Rupert posted:Crossposting from the schad thread, but uhh what makes a Jeep do this? Another light bar would have fixed this, obviously this tiny driver is a noob.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2023 22:32
|
|
|
Should I be worrying about these weeping t-case fill plugs?
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2023 20:35
|
|
|
Woof Blitzer posted:Should I be worrying about these weeping t-case fill plugs? Only if you take the top one out and the fluid is pretty low.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2023 20:43
|
|
|
Ok, this might be a really stupid question, but here goes. A few weeks ago, I was out in my 2013 JK Rubicon and ended up breaking both the front passenger side axle housing and the half shaft by driving into a washout that I didn't see. Pics below: The night and day after:   In my garage on jacks:     I'm really lucky because I had about $5,000 in parts (basically an entirely new interior, including seats) lined up on Quadratec, that I hadn't yet hit the buy button on. I was also already looking at upgrading to 4.88 or 5.18 gears, but I'm wondering if this is somehow repairable? Obviously, the half shaft is hosed, but I do have a spare, and I'm wondering if welding and trussing might be the way to go until I can save up the $12,000+ to do an entire front and rear swap to something like an Ultimate Dana 44 or Dana 60?
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2023 06:59
|
|
|
I would not recommend that. Those axles are known for breaking there and it'll do it again if you don't get the repair perfect. Either get a new stock axle housing and truss it before upgrading the gears, or swap to a stronger axle housing. Don't try to repair an already cracked axle housing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2023 02:04
|
|
|
kastein posted:I would not recommend that. Those axles are known for breaking there and it'll do it again if you don't get the repair perfect. jeep things
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2023 04:11
|
|
|
McDeth posted:
Pretty sure that there is why sleeve/gusset/truss kits have become a thing for the JK series housings. I probably wouldn't attempt a repair, but a good shop could probably completely retube it and put your old guts or new stuff in for ya, which may end up cheaper than buying a full on new housing. Another option is to find a good used housing and throw all the sleeves and gussets at it, along with your current guts or upgrades. Short term you could just throw a whole-rear end used axle assembly under there and hope for the best while you save up for party time.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2023 20:53
|
|
|
My 3.8 has been making some lifter noise for a while, finally pulled off the valve cover today. There’s a ton out there about issues on the 3.6, not much on the 3.8. I wasn’t able to push the rockers down, so the lifters seem fine. One of the rockers easily moved side to side, and another a little bit. Anyone rebuilt one of these before? It’s looseness between the rocker and the spacer (item 7) on the diagram below. How much of this gets replaced? The good news is this is all accessible with just the valve cover off, unlike the lifter which needs the head off too. https://www.moparfactoryparts.com/v-2008-jeep-wrangler--x--3-8l-v6-gas/3-8l-gas-engine--camshaft-and-valve
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2023 04:23
|
|
|
Well after giving it some thought, I'm probably going to just drop the coin and buy a Spicer Ultimate Dana 44. I've been running 35's for a while now and save for the latest mishap, I'm pretty happy with the tire size but the gear ratio (4.10's) leaves a lot to be desired. I figure the Ultimate Dana 44 would probably enable me to go to 37s if I ever wanted to, but I'm unsure if if I should go 4.88 or 5.10's. I've been really struggling with overheating and I live in the Central Valley of CA which routinely gets over 100 degrees in the summer.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2023 06:28
|
|
|
Pentastar? Go deep. That engine has no balls. The deeper gearing will help reduce cooling loads.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2023 18:35
|
|
|
Please pray for me as I prepare to drop 5 figures on suspension parts.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2023 00:35
|
|
|
Woof Blitzer posted:Please pray for me as I prepare to drop 5 figures on suspension parts. God speed.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2023 01:01
|
|
|
Trying to track down a couple A/C issues. The first was a leak that I finally managed to isolate to the low-side port valve core, so I had the system evacuated and put in a replacement Shrader valve. Then I got a vacuum pump to make sure there were no other leaks. I let it run for a while to draw out any leftover crap, then I turned it off and let it sit for an hour. No loss of vacuum, so looking good there. Now the next issue is odd. The compressor is kicking on correctly when I charge the system with new R-134a. But if the engine is up at operating temp, the clutch stops engaging. If I let the engine cool down for a while and try agaiin, the compressor kicks on as expected. The Jeep is definitely trying to engage it. When I turn the A/C on, the RPMs go up a bit as the system is trying to kick it on, but it doesn't engage. When I turn off the A/C, the RPMs drop for a second while the system readjusts. I'm hoping it's something as simple as a bad clutch, which I should be able to replace pretty easily. Just wanted to check around in case anyone has seen a similar issue.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2023 01:47
|
|
|
Just as a sanity check, see if it's sending power to the clutch. If it is, could be clutch issue. If not, could be something like the electric fan not doing a good enough job (it is on, right?) or not quite enough refrigerant if you didn't use a scale when you were adding it. Thankfully the HVAC control system on an XJ is pretty simple.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2023 02:43
|
|
|
Cat Hatter posted:Just as a sanity check, see if it's sending power to the clutch. If it is, could be clutch issue. If not, could be something like the electric fan not doing a good enough job (it is on, right?) or not quite enough refrigerant if you didn't use a scale when you were adding it. Come to think of it, I don't remember if the electric fan was turning on. It should come on while the compressor is running, right? I'll do these checks tomorrow when I have some time.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2023 03:09
|
|
|
Yes
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2023 03:25
|
|
|
It's also possible that you have a weak connection between the computer and the clutch. My WJ had that at a connector mid-harness and while it would show 12V at the clutch on a digital meter, it wouldn't actually support enough current to pull the clutch in.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2023 03:39
|
|
|
Gonna wait until later to avoid sunburn, but I did do the "disconnect the thermostat sensor" test, and sure enough the aux fan didn't turn on at all. I'll try jumping the fan later, and then I'll go from there. The 40 amp fuse looks good, too. On top of this nonsense, it actually looks like both the oil pressure sender and the engine temp sender are going bad. Oil gauge has been locked at the same setting for several weeks now (even after I just changed the oil last week). Engine temp keeps reading at 120-130. DizzyBum fucked around with this message at 18:22 on May 27, 2023 |
|
#
?
May 27, 2023 18:16
|
|
|
NotNut posted:The driver side backseat of my 2008 Jeep Liberty wouldn't fold down yesterday, so I forced it and it seemed to come unstuck and work fine but now it won't lock back into place. It looked like there might have been some grit in the mechanism. Does anyone know what happened and how to fix it? NotNut posted:When the release isn't pulled, it makes a clicking sounds like some kind of ratcheting is happening when I move it around in the locked positions. After just moving it back and forth a bunch if it locked again. Very weird. Anyone have an idea what could be going on here? Now the seat is stuck up and won't fold down at all.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2023 20:05
|
|
|
NotNut posted:Anyone have an idea what could be going on here? Now the seat is stuck up and won't fold down at all. It's a Jeep thing. You I would make sure that there isn't someone jamming the seat forward and putting pressure on the latch.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2023 13:37
|
|
|
Okay, I think it is the aux fan itself that's the problem. I tried jumping it, and it sometimes spins, but it's much slower than it should be. When the compressor kicks on, the fan will sometimes spin slowly. Sometimes it'll require me to nudge it to get it spinning. Once the engine warms up enough, the fan gets too weak to spin at all. The fan used to be a lot stronger, so I think it's just time to replace it.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2023 01:41
|
|
|
Okay, new fan is installed and working great, so that's good. Didn't want to have to worry about possible overheating at idle. I'm still having the issue where the A/C clutch isn't engaging when the engine is at operating temp, so I'm gonna investigate that more. I might see if I can get away with the "take a shim out of the clutch" trick. The compressor seems to be working great otherwise; the air is ice-cold when it's actually engaging.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2023 21:54
|
|
|
DizzyBum posted:I might see if I can get away with the "take a shim out of the clutch" trick. The compressor seems to be working great otherwise; the air is ice-cold when it's actually engaging. Use some jumper leads and hit the clutch with known-good 12V and ground before you do this.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2023 22:37
|
|
|
Probably also check if the car is even sending 12v too. If not its probably one of the two pressure switches shutting it off, possibly for a reason. I just checked the service manual for a 97 XJ (probably the same) and if you can be bothered to put some gauges on it while its acting up, the low side port should be above 25psi and the low pressure cut off switch should have continuity. The high side switch should have continuity. If not, unscrew it from the fitting and it should have continuity.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2023 01:25
|
|
|
My partner has a 2002(3?) rubicon with a noise coming from the rear end under acceleration. One shop said something about the transfer case another said something about one of the gears in the rear differential being bad. Does anyone have a shop in the Washington DC area they trust? She's not too sure if she trusts either shop to actually do the work properly. I'd do it myself but I don't know poo poo about jeeps or 4x4 anything.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2023 01:38
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Use some jumper leads and hit the clutch with known-good 12V and ground before you do this. Thanks!  Fingers crossed, I think I finally got it fixed! I removed the clutch plate and saw there was a lot of corrosion and gunk, so I thoroughly cleaned the plate and the clutch with a wire brush, sandpaper, and some brake cleaner. Put everything back together and took it for a test drive, more than enough time to have the engine at operating temp... A/C stayed on the whole time.  I'm gonna give it a couple days in hot weather before I can call this done and dusted. I've been chasing this demon for a very long time.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2023 02:22
|
|
|
I messed up and posted a big post in a different jeep thread instead of the real jeep mega thread. Whoops sorry. But essentially the tl;dr is that: I'm wanting to sell this 1995 Jeep YJ Sport (or Sahara?) I have that is barely driven and has basically just been sitting around for most of a year. I thought it would be a good idea to take it to a mechanic so that they could tell me things that are wrong with it that I could tell the buyer, and which would also help me correctly price the car. But it seems like (and go to the post for more details) that the mechanic is sort of just giving me a hand wavey list of all sorts of things that are wrong with the car, without any sort of details about what it actually costs to fix this thing, and then offering to buy it from me. All that seems quite likely scammy to me! So I thought I'd post the part of the list here of things that actually sound like significant priorities with the hope that people could give me a bit of help here: 1) I don't want to sell someone something that will kill them so it would be good to know which of these items I should feel obligated to alert people about. (eg. brake lines rusted sound worth noting to me!) 2) It would be great if folks could give me a bit of direction about how I should google to estimate about how much it costs to replace some of these things so I have a firmer idea around what the real value of this car is (presumably whatever FB marketplace says people are selling these for, less the price of these repairs). I was hoping the mechanic would help me here, but seems less and less likely that he will. Some of the more significant underlined issues cited here (either because of cost or safety/severity/importance) are: * radiator bad (rusted fins) * shocks should be replaced * brake fluid flush (more than 4% water) * brake lines rusted * front axel u joint rusted * body mounts rusted driver side * water pump leak starting * oil leak in steering Ultimately I'll probably just put this thing up on Facebook marketplace for ~C$5000 (as people seem to be selling these things in my area for 5-7k) and I dunno we'll see what happens, but it would be good to have some idea of the problems with this car and what it genuinely takes to fix them.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2023 23:10
|
|
|
Unless something is both trivially inexpensive and easy for you to do personally, I wouldn't do it before selling. Given Canadabux and YJ, I expect the list of faults found is going to be similar to what is present on other cheap-ish YJs in the area - nobody is selling a showroom-mint anything for $5-7k these days. Also, "rusted U-joint" is the one that really jumps out to me as bullshit. I've never seen even photos of one that has rusted completely through; they'll fail due to lack of grease / dirt intrusion into the rollers long before structural rust could take hold.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2023 03:24
|
|
|
All I can think is it's exhibiting the usual sign of failure which is that the needle bearings inside rust into a solid wad, eventually they crumble into dust, then said dust escapes what used to be the seals and leaves a characteristic red dust all over them right around where the seals used to be. If it's just a regular old ujoint that's got some rust on the exposed surfaces it's not a big deal at all and should be run until the other thing happens. As far as I'm concerned needing a ujoint is a 35 dollar and 2 hour problem but I've been through this far too many times before. For a 95 YJ you need a Spicer 5-760x and northerndrivetrain.com sells them for that price. The most annoying part is usually getting the rusted-in unit bearing out of the knuckle, but it's not a horrible project once you have the right tools and tricks.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2023 04:54
|
|
|
Well before I ask the mechanic I will post this here: My 99 Cherokee stops communicating through the OBD2 port after running for about 5 min. When the vehicle is restarted, it starts communicating again and then loses connection after a short period of time. Stock wiring harness, no ground faults, good voltage, port is not corroded, verified with 3 different scanners, no codes or warnings. I have no idea wtf is happening. e: turns out it's the refresh rate on this piece of poo poo. Woof Blitzer fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Jun 9, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2023 22:33
|
|
|
A/C is still cold after I cleaned the clutch plate, so I think that's a success! I had another issue come up where the XJ suddenly wasn't starting. Turns out I had spilled old oil on the starter plug while I was changing it last month, and some of it seeped into the plug connection and the starter housing.  I was due for a new starter anyway, so I took out the old one, gave the housing a really good cleaning, and put in the new one. Sounds great now!The most difficult part was getting the old plug off. Turns out I complely forgot about a hackjob DIY "fix" I did over a year ago where my old starter was having problems. The old starter plug broke, and nobody sold just the terminal for that, so I ziptied and electrical-taped the thing together to hold it temporarily... and then promptly forgot I did that.  When I put this new starter in, I had to dig out old shards of plastic from the previous broken terminal before I could plug the new one in.
DizzyBum fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Jun 15, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2023 21:39
|
|
|
My starter currently has like a half inch of oil and road grit caked on it and works fine.
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2023 03:42
|
|
|
My 2016 JK just went over 100,000 miles last month. I was starting to think about doing some preventive work, when I got misfire in cylinder 1. So, doing spark plugs today. Should I go ahead and change out ignition coils while I have access?
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2023 15:35
|
|
|
You can try putting that #1 coil on a different cylinder and see if the misfire code follows it and just replace that one, or just replace them all since that’s probably the mileage they will start dying and you’ll just play whack a mole till you replace them all anyway.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2023 17:13
|
|
|
Big Taint posted:You can try putting that #1 coil on a different cylinder and see if the misfire code follows it and just replace that one, or just replace them all since that’s probably the mileage they will start dying and you’ll just play whack a mole till you replace them all anyway. I replaced just the plug and code went away. However, I'm going to pull the intake cover and replace all six plugs so its only a matter of cost since the coils don't add any significant labor, so away we go. Edit. Done. YouTube videos on removing the intake cover were first, missing steps, second, adding extra steps, finally a guy who had done it several times showed clearly all the steps. Came right off. Plugs, ignition coils, easy but for the one by the firewall on the passenger side. That coil came apart on removal and I had to pull it out with needle nose. The plugs were, well, 100,000 miles old. Put it back together, left out the foam insert, took it all back off (5 minutes), back together. Cold air intake has to sit in a slot, did not do that, remove it, reseat. Air temp sensor shoves into body of intake, take it apart again, fit sensor, reattach...remove, reseat in slot, reattach. Test drive, all is well, smooth, no codes. Find four nuts in my pocket. Fortunately, the easily accessed and first thing removed, so back on in two minutes. Done. torgeaux fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Jun 18, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2023 19:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 16:06 |
|
|
back wrenching on the XJ. snapped the bolt to adjust the tensioner pulley. Is it better to try and find a replacement bolt or replace the whole assembly?
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2023 23:16
|
|
