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JaySB posted:Meh, it cost me $300....If it broke down on me tomorrow or caught on fire, or I took it and jumped it and rolled it, I'd get my money's worth. You could probably (that is if you haven't already trashed the trans by driving with it slipping) adjust/get the trans fixed, fix the other little finnicky stuff yourself, and then sell it for more than you have into it. Hell, you could probably plug in a used junkyard trans for a couple hundred and make some cool cash. 1995 isn't that old, a lot of people would drive that as their only car. Driving a Jeep into the ground can make you a part of the Jeep family. Buying a Jeep that needs major repairs and driving it anyway so that it will end up at the crusher should exclude you from the Jeep family. That's just cruel. I know its just a GC, but still - really isn't nice to do that to any car. Really wasteful and I'm sure when your tranny grenades on the highway causing you to spin out of control or end up with an immoveable car in the left/right/exit/on-ramp/narrow shoulder the 10,000 people behind you who are now in a traffic jam and just trying to get home from/to work will really appreciate it.
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Oct 15, 2008 21:30
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Have you checked your transmission fluid level? When my Explorer is low on fluid, sometimes the torque converter doesn't lockup on the highway. Also please don't drive a car that leaks coolant on the trails. I cringe to think of all the cute squirrels that are gonna lap it up and die.
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Oct 15, 2008 22:05
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Have you checked your transmission fluid level? When my Explorer is low on fluid, sometimes the torque converter doesn't lockup on the highway. I'm not actually driving it until I fix all of the things wrong with it.
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Oct 16, 2008 00:07
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rubbersoul posted:So evidently me and BigFuzzyJesus's dad just bought a '60-ish CJ-5. Any issues to look for/correct? It's supposedly in very good shape and yellow. with 44000 miles, one previous owner, and all service records, for 1 k pic:  edit:tables, also, I am retarded. BigFuzzyJesus fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Oct 21, 2008 |
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Oct 19, 2008 01:15
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Disciple of Pain posted:It is the premium Up-Country edition so it has nice captain's chairs with nice material and arms rests and junk. PO took his aftermarket head unit so I will have to replace it with a cheap one from Wal-Mart or something.  And yeah, fiberglass hatches were the norm until the '97 refresh.
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Oct 19, 2008 08:46
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BigFuzzyJesus posted:with 44000 miles, one previous owner, and all service records, for 1 k I will gladly take that hunk of junk off your hands for $1,001.
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Oct 19, 2008 14:56
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I am the proud owner of a 2006 Jeep Wrangler SE (24,000 miles), it has the 4 cylinder engine and a manual tranny. 3/5ths of the time I hit exactly 50mph the car begins to shake violently and an increase in speed creates more shaking. If however I slow down below 40mph the shaking will go away. I've had my tires replaced (as needed) and balanced but that didn't seem to help.
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Oct 20, 2008 19:07
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Roger_Mudd posted:I am the proud owner of a 2006 Jeep Wrangler SE (24,000 miles), it has the 4 cylinder engine and a manual tranny. Check your trackbar. It should be completley snug. Here's a picture for reference:  Click here for the full 797x498 image.
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Oct 20, 2008 19:11
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MrZig posted:Check your trackbar. It should be completley snug. Here's a picture for reference: Mine looks different but I located what I believe is the trackbar and it was snug as a bug 
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Oct 20, 2008 19:26
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Roger_Mudd posted:Mine looks different but I located what I believe is the trackbar and it was snug as a bug Did you check it near the mount? A loose trackbar is the cause of 90% of all bad jeep wobbles. Check your tie rods and joints too, then.
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Oct 20, 2008 19:28
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I've seen threads on other Jeep forums where someone has the TJ shimmy and also has a "snug" track bar. However on further inspection they've found everything from bad bushings to cracked bolts. At the very least, it's worth torquing the bolts to the correct amount: 45 ft-lbs at both ends. BE CAREFUL if you look for torque specs on the web: torque ratings for many suspension components on the TJ are different between years and axle types. You could break things.
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Oct 20, 2008 19:31
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I had the same problem with my 02 Wrangler SE and the sway bar links ended up being shot.
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Oct 20, 2008 19:40
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Is it lifted? If so, check out some of the articles on death wobble. They may be of help even if not lifted.
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Oct 20, 2008 22:01
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Beep Beep 2 days after washing and waxing, rain. On a different note though, I have a wheel question. I have looked around town and found that many other WJ's have this problem,  It appears there is a plastic coating over it that has started to come off. My tires are getting rather worn down, so I am going to get new tires and wheels. I need sugestions though, there are so many gaudy wheels out there I don't know where to start. Any WJ owners out there with sugestions? Shotgun1337 fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Oct 20, 2008 |
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Oct 20, 2008 22:15
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Can we stop breaking tables with our images guys? Please???
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Oct 20, 2008 22:41
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If anyone comes by a Willy's flat fender Jeep in the British Columbia or even Alberta area, can you let me know? My email is in my profile. I've been watching Band of Brothers lately and it occured to me just how useful a Willy's would be for hunting trips, especially once I throw in a Cummins 4BT and lockable front and rear axles. I want one so bad it's torture.
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Oct 20, 2008 22:58
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spiralbrain posted:Can we stop breaking tables with our images guys? Please??? Would you prefer we link to picasa albums instead? (Like this?) The above is my first time offroading my new 4-door '08 JK. I've even got some videos up too. 
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Oct 21, 2008 00:39
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Shotgun1337 posted:Beep Beep the wheel thing is a common issue, the clear coat is comming off the wheel. Sand the whole wheel down and then paint. The white jeep will be a problem finding a color that looks good though. You might be able to get it stripped and reclear coated though I don't know how well that would work.
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Oct 21, 2008 05:36
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Could someone give me a rundown on my options for a suspension lift/upgrade? The stock look just isn't doing it for me. I've poked around online and there's just so much poo poo available. I have a stock '93 YJ with the 4.0 I6. I'd like to add 2 or 3 inches and some bigger & better tires, but don't want to go overboard. A bit wider of a base would be nice, after driving my 944 the Jeep feels like a boat in high waters tipping around some of those turns. I don't know if that's a necessity right now though. It's going to be used primarily as bad weather transport to and from work and I doubt it will ever see more off-roading than the occasional drive to a local hiking trail, but it'll get its share of sleet and slush from a typical north Jersey winter. Would I need to upgrade the axle anyway? Any suggestions and links are welcome.
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Oct 21, 2008 20:58
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For 2-3 inches, you'll need to combine lift shackles with an add-a-leaf. You can get around 1.5" with extended shackles only. If messing with leaf packs is beyond your difficulty level right now, you can start with just the shackles. In fact that's probably the best approach, as you might find that the small lift is enough to satisfy you when combined with a step up in tire size. You can modify the leaf packs later on if the shackles alone aren't enough lift for you. Going beyond 2" will usually require longer shocks, going beyond 3" will probably require extended brake lines too. For a road driver, you want a shackle that's heavily reinforced, else you'll get flexing in the shackle, which is good for off road, but terrible for on road. Warrior makes good basic shackles with heavy center reinforcement. Here's a 1 1/4" pair for front and rear: http://www.quadratec.com/products/16045_04.htm http://www.quadratec.com/products/16046_02.htm You can very easily change these out in your driveway, one at a time. You'll need an alignment afterwards. Also, now is a great time to replace the leaf eye bushings. Again, Quadratec has what you need: http://www.quadratec.com/products/16045_12.htm A wide stance can be had with wheel spacers or changing to wide offset rims. I sort of wish I bought a YJ lately. Yeah, leafs ride like poo poo, but the modding combinations are endless, and so easy to work on. incredibull fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Oct 21, 2008 |
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Oct 21, 2008 22:03
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I have a 1999 Wrangler Sport. Last week, I noticed that the gauges were dead. Specifically, the needles all pointed to as if they were off, but the backlight and trip computer was still on. Also, when this happens, the airbag light comes on. This problem is intermittent, although I would say that 50-70% of the time, the gauges are dead. During a drive, they will come alive randomly and then perhaps die again. What's going on?
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Oct 22, 2008 01:41
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ethanol posted:I have a 1999 Wrangler Sport. Last week, I noticed that the gauges were dead. Specifically, the needles all pointed to as if they were off, but the backlight and trip computer was still on. Also, when this happens, the airbag light comes on. I've been having this exact same problem with my '98 Cherokee. Usually the gauges come back if I slam my fist down on the dash so I'm guessing its just a loose connection, but mine isn't as frequent a problem so I've been too lazy to fix it.
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Oct 22, 2008 02:36
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Cat Hatter posted:I've been having this exact same problem with my '98 Cherokee. Usually the gauges come back if I slam my fist down on the dash so I'm guessing its just a loose connection, but mine isn't as frequent a problem so I've been too lazy to fix it. Lose connection on the ground block? I'd bust out the multimeter and start inspecting from under the dash/fuse box area, and the battery/starter and work my way in.
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Oct 22, 2008 02:38
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ethanol posted:I have a 1999 Wrangler Sport. Last week, I noticed that the gauges were dead. Specifically, the needles all pointed to as if they were off, but the backlight and trip computer was still on. Also, when this happens, the airbag light comes on. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1339049
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Oct 22, 2008 02:51
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Shotgun1337 posted:
First off don't listen to the guy quoted below. Never take sandpaper to an aluminum wheel. Take the wheels off and cover them in paper towels soaked in acetone. This will take the clear coat off of the wheels. You can then polish them back up and either clear them or paint them. Veeb0rg posted:the wheel thing is a common issue, the clear coat is comming off the wheel. Sand the whole wheel down and then paint. The white jeep will be a problem finding a color that looks good though. You might be able to get it stripped and reclear coated though I don't know how well that would work.
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Oct 22, 2008 05:48
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ethanol posted:I have a 1999 Wrangler Sport. Last week, I noticed that the gauges were dead. Specifically, the needles all pointed to as if they were off, but the backlight and trip computer was still on. Also, when this happens, the airbag light comes on. Did you happen to buy my old TJ?  Seriously, it used to do that - mostly when it was colder out. If I hit the gauge cluster, it would usually spark the gauges to come back to life. I never did figur out the reason.
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Oct 22, 2008 06:26
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Edit: ^^^^^ I don't have that problem, exactly, but what I do have is a tachometer that behaves very strangely. It only reads between about 1000-2000 RPM (if the revs are really high, it goes a bit above 2000). The needle more or less describes a compressed version of the tach dial. Any idea what could be happening there? Anyway...  BEEP BEEP She's a 91 with the 4.0, 3" of spring lift and 1" of shackle lift and 35" BFG A/Ts at the time of photo. I have since garaged the 35s and put on some 32s so I don't blow up my faggy little dana 35. Sadly, I also don't have any lockers yet, and that combined with the high desert soil is why you see a winch cable in this pic. Admittedly, that wasn't the brightest place to attach it, but we started out with more of an angle, and now my bumper has a bit of extra charisma. This was at the "hole in the ground" crater/maar south of Bend, OR. We ended up having to turn back because the trail narrowed too much, and nobody wanted to roll down into a loving crater. If there are any Oregoons around here, I'll be out at Tillamook State Forest/Browns Camp this weekend with the big Flat Broke & Four Wheelin' crew. Hopefully I'll have some better pictures from there, too. Clamwacker fucked around with this message at 11:47 on Oct 22, 2008 |
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Oct 22, 2008 11:39
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incredibull posted:You can get around 1.5" with extended shackles only. If messing with leaf packs is beyond your difficulty level right now, you can start with just the shackles. In fact that's probably the best approach, as you might find that the small lift is enough to satisfy you when combined with a step up in tire size. This is what I currently have, just lift shackles. But also no flares and ghetto'd tube/flat fenders. I run 31x10.50s on 15x8 steel wheels. I WAS going to use TJ flares on the rear but I think I'll just trim the wheel wells out and call it done.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. (yes yes, my next job is to sand and hit all the black stuff with a fresh coat) You cant do any of that in NJ. NJ requires the tires to be completely covered at all times which is why you see so many jeeps with them wide rear end flares. As for the shackles, it can be a loving goddamn pain in the rear end to DIY. The way the bolts are from the factory. I'm not saying it can't be done at home, just have plenty of beer and try to do it where your swearing and crying won't disturb anyone. I paid someone else to do it because it seemed like too much of a hassle.
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Oct 22, 2008 13:14
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Thanks incredibull & TSM, just what I was looking for. I have the Quadratec catalog and was overloaded with options. Across some Jeep forums, I saw such a spread of information I was at first convinced I'd need to put in the D44 for any increase in tire size, but after reading more & seeing you answer my questions, I figure that's not the case, since my lift plans are not that grand. Local driving should not put that much of a strain on it. I'll take a look at putting in the shackles — I'm willing to attempt anything in my driveway as long as it won't blow up the car if I fail. Any amount of beer, blood and cursing is acceptable if I can do it for cheap. I can't dump a lot of money on the Jeep so if I decide I need to take it somewhere, it's not going to happen until the spring. I currently have the crappy thin plastic flares so I have no problem replacing them with something that will cover the extra width. PCJ-600 fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Oct 22, 2008 |
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Oct 22, 2008 18:06
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Clamwacker posted:Edit: ^^^^^ I don't have that problem, exactly, but what I do have is a tachometer that behaves very strangely. It only reads between about 1000-2000 RPM (if the revs are really high, it goes a bit above 2000). The needle more or less describes a compressed version of the tach dial. Any idea what could be happening there? Not sure if you've got an electric or mechanical tach, but in the case of mechanical, I'd guess the cable is loose, or the pinion is slipping. If electrical, read the jeepforum link, it'll probably fix your tach, and save further pain
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Oct 22, 2008 18:21
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I badmouth the D35 any chance I can get. HOWEVER, the D35 can do okay I guess it depends on the driver and their application of the skinny pedal. 31's is all I'll run on it. I know people have and do run larger but I've seen too many failures and it just makes my rear end in a top hat pucker to think of having to deal with that off road. I do have a spare set of shafts just in case, but I say several prayers anytime I get off road with that thing. If anything worse was to happen I guess theres always the remove rear shaft and drive home in fwd....possibly. Also my jeep is 20 years old, next year it can buy it's own goddamn beer. Slow,steady, and easy wins the non grenaded D35 race. Also low is the new lift. or I should say there is a large population of people doing more cutting and minor lifting to stuff larger tires while keeping a low COG. There have been some pretty neat looking rigs with 33-35s with minimal lift just a whole lot of sawzall application, or highrise fenders and poo poo like that.
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Oct 22, 2008 18:30
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I agree with the comment on D35 and 31"/265s max. I have 32x11.50s on my TJ right now and I want them off as soon as possible. They were the PO's idea, on a D35/D30 with 3.07s - real smart choice there. Great highway gearing, though. I'm going to 265/75/15s. However, I think the D35 is secretly much stronger than what you really hear. In the small Ford world where I've come from, the D35 front axle is thought to be bulletproof, and it really is pretty drat strong, routinely holding up to tires over 36" with a locker to boot. The components in the D35 rear are all pretty much the same strength and size as in the Ford front unit, so how would they magically be different? I'll never reef on mine, but IMO, too many D35s break simply because people with shop-built rigs think its a Jeep so it must be able to hold up to anything, including driver stupidity. The trick to doing shackles is getting the bolts soaked in penetrant for as much as a week before you start. Come back every day and spray them again. When you're ready, it can also help to heat the bushings with a hair dryer or heat gun on LOW (you can melt them). Getting the leafs re-centered into the shackles to insert the bolts can be a pain too, but with the right set of punches, and a lot of patience (beer) like TSM suggests, you can do the shackles all in a day. Of course, I say this coming from a state where there really isn't much rust at all, so "easy" here could be a huge PITA if you're in the rust belt. incredibull fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Oct 22, 2008 |
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Oct 22, 2008 22:01
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D35's are junk. I drive a welded D44 on 33's on the street and haven't had any problems. By the way, does anyone want to trade me a stock 8.25 with a lockright for my D44?
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Oct 22, 2008 22:10
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Shotgun1337 posted:Any WJ owners out there with sugestions? Just a humble XJ owner offering a suggestion (not those tires though): Also, here are all the stock choices http://www.wjjeeps.com/wheels.htm amenenema fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Oct 23, 2008 |
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Oct 23, 2008 00:06
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Have been reading lots about common 4.0 main seal leaks. I'm really glad that the seal can be replaced without pulling the tranny on this engine. I'm wondering how many of you guys with 4.0s have had to change the rear main, and what mileage did it give out? Mine is a 2004, and I'm hoping I have some kind of improved seal for the last years of the 4.0, but I can't seem to find that info yet.
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Oct 23, 2008 06:14
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For anyone having the gauges acting funny or going dead issue, I used to have that as well. After reading up quite a bit about it on several Jeep forums, I found it is almost always a case of a connection issue. The clusters for whatever reason, don't use a normal electrical connector. Instead the pins are pressed into a plastic connector (like a normal electrical connector), but the connector itself is open and mounted to the metal frame of the dash. The gauge cluster when installed is pressed down over these connectors and the gauge is now connected. The way I managed to fix it (and is the common fix), is to remove the cluster and thoroughly clean the connections and pins on both the cluster and on the connectors, with swabs and alcohol. Reinstall the cluster and it should work fine from then on.
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Oct 23, 2008 09:22
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If everything works out I plan to pick up a 94-95 5.2 ZJ this weekend but it needs some work. The heater is not working right and I think its a problem with the blend doors. This will be my DD until I can get the trans sorted out in my lovely saturn.
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Oct 23, 2008 11:41
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incredibull posted:I'm wondering how many of you guys with 4.0s have had to change the rear main, and what mileage did it give out? Started dribbling oil around 90K, replaced it around 100K. I could have gone longer, but they already had it to do all the control arms and cut me a deal.
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Oct 23, 2008 15:05
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My '95 was marking its territory a bit when I got it at 97k and still does at 140k. It doesn't seem to have gotten any worse.
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Oct 23, 2008 17:08
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ManicJason posted:My '95 was marking its territory a bit when I got it at 97k and still does at 140k. It doesn't seem to have gotten any worse. The main reason I fixed mine was because my friends made me park in their yards, and didn't want me oiling up their pretty concrete driveways.
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Oct 23, 2008 17:17
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