|
Slip yoke eliminator
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2008 04:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 00:37 |
|
|
SNiPER_Magnum posted:Slip yoke eliminator I see. And judging from this pic: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/aasye99/tcaseshaftcompare.jpg It looks a lot more indestructible. (note: I'd waffle image this, but "The system is not currently accepting new images due to a lack of available mirrors.")
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2008 05:04
|
|
|
Gavitron posted:I see. Yep, beefier main shaft and it uses a double-cardan CV joint on the external to eliminate vibrations due to the increased angle from the transfer case to the axle after a lift. On the off-chance you bust the joint, you can pull the rear shaft and limp home in front-wheel drive without having to worry about your t-case leaking fluid all the way. Assuming you don't have the parts for a trail repair, anyway. I ran my YJ with just a t-case drop for a while but the angle generated extra friction over time, wore the grease out of the u-joint and that mother let go at 60 MPH on the freeway. Beat the living hell out of the muffler. SYE Before: (you can see how the shaft slips in/out of the case's weak tailcone to compensate suddenly-adjusting angle)  SYE After: (notice the GL3 stain and shiny new muffler) 
Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Nov 18, 2008 |
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2008 05:15
|
|
|
It appears that electrical gremlins have taken residence in the dash board of my '87 Comanche. My cigarette lighter has stopped working, as has my in dash clock and my stereo. My gauges, heater, and headlights all function perfectly normal, so thats a plus. When I checked for blown fuses, the fuse labeled ETR (checks out as the radio fuse as well) was blown, so I replaced it. Still doesn't work, and it sparked when I put the new fuse in, however it did not blow it. Added twist: The problem started after I swapped out my gauge cluster (mechanical speedo stopped working, so no electrical issues there). Any thoughts on what it may be? I'm thinking something got messed up with the hack job of a radio install thats in there when I put the radio back in for the swap (to be fair, my hack job is better than the po's hack job). Thanks
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2008 00:35
|
|
|
My girlfriend has decided she wants a CJ-7. Far be it from me to argue with the girl. It'll probably be a few months, but is there anything in particular to look for when shopping CJs? Still don't know if we're going to sell the Samurai or not though....
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2008 05:05
|
|
|
Jeepgoons, I don't have any experience at all with Jeeps, but I want some. I have the daily driver angle covered and some extra cash, so I was considering either an e30 or a jeep for fun wrenching and beating. I'm currently leaning toward the jeep; I love to camp, and the idea of throwing my poo poo in the back and disappearing for a few days in whichever direction I want to go seems like the Right Thing. I haven't actually gone to see it yet, but I found a Wrangler near me on craigslist. The ad didn't have any pictures, but he gave the following description: craigslist posted:Jeep Wrangler 1992 Metallic Blue kind of tropical tonality, more like a turquoise, general good condition, mechanically and cosmetically speaking... around 164,000 Miles, Texas plates, everything in order, soft top, general blemishes on the gray soft top, good condition, large all terrain,top of the line tires with a lift suspension, do not expect a mint car by any means, nice ride however bumpy and... well if you now what I mean It's a Jeep thing. I emailed him asking for further information, and he responded. email posted:I may post some pics this weekend, the car will look good on the photos, however you know and I believe this is irrelevant and subjective to make a fair judgement... You Must See and drive the car! Standard, 6 cylinders, 4.0 liters, 3956 cc, Rancho shocks and Skyjack axles I believe... thanks He's asking $3800 for it. What I would like from you guys is a general overview of
I read through this thread, but there's so much to take in at once. Thanks for any help you can give me. ewokfarmer fucked around with this message at 10:34 on Nov 21, 2008 |
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2008 09:18
|
|
|
Ugh, I can't speak for everyone but please don't call me a "jeepgoon" tia To answer some of your questions, 1991 was the year the Wrangler went from carbs to the fuel-injected 4.0L. So the 4.0L/Manual trans is a favorite combo on a YJ, I have this combo in my 94' Wrangler. The biggest difference between the YJ and the TJ is the suspension- the coil-spring TJ's started in 1997. As for this particular car/seller you don't have a lot of info but the guy sounds a little like a froot loop to me based on the way he writes but who knows. Give it a good detailed inspection and test drive like you would with any used vehicle, take a close look at what has been added and what may be missing. There are plenty of Wranglers out there, don't jump at the first one you see unless it is real good, look for one that is solid and has the features you want- it is a buyer's market right now.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2008 09:42
|
|
|
Ugh, I changed my coolant 2000 miles ago in preparation for winter, the Jeep has just started leaking a header tank full of coolant every trip to work and back (a few hours driving). From what i can see it's coming from right in the middle of the engine (4.0) at the front, where the water pump is. Replacement looks like awesome fun 
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2008 14:50
|
|
|
So my D35 started leaking at the pinion seal. Am I safe just slapping in a new seal and re-torquing the pinion nut to spec? Obviously I won't be replacing the crush washer. I know lots of guys do seals like this, but I know the proper method is to measure pinion bearing preload beforehand, and make sure to match it when reinstalling the pinion nut.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2008 16:48
|
|
|
I currently have a 98 "fun" jeep wrangler with 168k miles that we keep in our mountain house in NC. It's a 6 and manual tranny. I really have enjoyed driving it, but I am by far not yet a jeep person and don't know a whole lot about them. I am currently looking at purchasing a 2005 unlimited with an auto tranny. Can someone go over the major differences/improvements that have happened between the years of these two jeeps? Can I expect a better highway drive, easier top removal and replacement, any better gas mileage etc (have they fixed that dome light thing where you don't have to get a switch to turn it off when you have the doors off of it)? Also, what accessories does one suggest in the begginning...you know i have to get something.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2008 16:56
|
|
|
sanchez posted:Ugh, I changed my coolant 2000 miles ago in preparation for winter, the Jeep has just started leaking a header tank full of coolant every trip to work and back (a few hours driving). From what i can see it's coming from right in the middle of the engine (4.0) at the front, where the water pump is. Replacement looks like awesome fun At least it is only like $40 for a reman water pump... incredibull posted:So my D35 started leaking at the pinion seal. Am I safe just slapping in a new seal and re-torquing the pinion nut to spec? Obviously I won't be replacing the crush washer. I know lots of guys do seals like this, but I know the proper method is to measure pinion bearing preload beforehand, and make sure to match it when reinstalling the pinion nut. How are those u-joints doing? It is true that the "correct" way to do it is with preload and a new crush sleeve- that is really up to you, do you know the condition of the bearings? You could score the pinion and nut in line with each other then when you retighten use the score line to match them up. Technically you are supposed to replace the pinion nut everytime as well. Some people do and some don't. One thing you may already know is to remove any rust burns on the shaft with light abrasive paper.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2008 19:45
|
|
|
Well, here's my new baby. 05 unlimited wrangler. got a quadratec catalog and I can tell I am going to go broke quickly.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2008 22:30
|
|
|
Hey guys, back in August I bought a beautiful 2003 Wrangler X manual, 63K on the clock with a soft top and half doors. Here's my issue: I love the look of the half doors when the top is off. But the aftermarket windows that came with the Jeep (not the plastic zip ones, but vertical sliding glass windows) suck. They wobble horribly and leak both air and water at the top of the doorframe and between the windows themselves. Added to that, the hinges on both the driver's and passenger-side doors are somewhat loose, so they creak and rattle anytime I hit a bump. Annoying. I'm thinking of investing in a set of full doors for the winter months, and keeping the half doors for my summer top-down driving. My question: Do you guys have any suggestions for where to look (checked the local junkyards, no dice); how much can I expect to pay (used and, if there is such a thing, new) and, if new doors aren't a possibility, any suggestions for tightening up the door hinges to eliminate the squeaking/rattle? Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2008 01:09
|
|
|
sanchez posted:Ugh, I changed my coolant 2000 miles ago in preparation for winter, the Jeep has just started leaking a header tank full of coolant every trip to work and back (a few hours driving). From what i can see it's coming from right in the middle of the engine (4.0) at the front, where the water pump is. Replacement looks like awesome fun It's actually pretty easy, though it can be somewhat time-consuming for such a small fix. The only problem I ran into was removing the original hardline from the old pump; that bitch was on there tight. It took two sets of vice grips and a near-aneurysm to pull mine off but yours is fairly new so I doubt it will be as much of a hassle. This writeup is for an XJ but pretty much the same as it's the 4.0L: http://jeepin.com/features/waterpump/index.asp benzero posted:Well, here's my new baby. 05 unlimited wrangler. got a quadratec catalog and I can tell I am going to go broke quickly. Congrats, and nice. Any idea what rims those are? Quadratec is great for browsing ideas and general accessories but you can almost always find better deals elsewhere if you're getting actual components.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2008 02:27
|
|
|
Triple E posted:Hey guys, back in August I bought a beautiful 2003 Wrangler X manual, 63K on the clock with a soft top and half doors. Here's my issue: The full doors that fit your 03 are the same doors from 97-06 wranglers. As for price, think $2000+ for a new set, and I've seen anywhere from $500-$1000 for a good used set. I'd try searching various craigslist areas within driving distance and try some other junkyards, a search of my local found a couple sets. In addition to inspecting the door metal, make sure the glass is intact, the windows go up and down, and take a look at the condition of the interior door panels.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2008 07:47
|
|
|
benzero posted:Well, here's my new baby. 05 unlimited wrangler. got a quadratec catalog and I can tell I am going to go broke quickly. Nice! Im going to agree with the above. Quadratec when they run sales is pretty competitive, but you can usually get better deals elsewhere.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2008 18:44
|
|
|
spiralbrain posted:Nice! Im going to agree with the above. Quadratec when they run sales is pretty competitive, but you can usually get better deals elsewhere. Thanks! i have checked out quadratec, but for basic stuff (door straps) etc that I need, ebaymotors is much cheaper. Not for big stuff, I don't want to cheap out on that, but the little stuff is okay. Wheels are moto metal 0951 16" Any ideas whet forums are good? i joined jeepforum.com but I am looking for more.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2008 21:18
|
|
|
My 89 cherokee's rear diff's slip yoke moves side to side, up and down, and in and out enough to make noise if you do it by hand - could this be cause for concern? My front diff feels solid.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2008 03:40
|
|
|
Sounds like a worn pinion bearing, and you probably have a Dana 35, so it's likely. I'm trying to take care of mine, but I tow stuff often, so I wonder how long it'll really last.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2008 04:09
|
|
|
incredibull posted:Sounds like a worn pinion bearing, and you probably have a Dana 35, so it's likely. Yea its a D35. Would it explain harshness when getting on and off the throttle?
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2008 04:16
|
|
|
benzero posted:I currently have a 98 "fun" jeep wrangler with 168k miles that we keep in our mountain house in NC. It's a 6 and manual tranny. I really have enjoyed driving it, but I am by far not yet a jeep person and don't know a whole lot about them. I am currently looking at purchasing a 2005 unlimited with an auto tranny. Can someone go over the major differences/improvements that have happened between the years of these two jeeps? Can I expect a better highway drive, easier top removal and replacement, any better gas mileage etc (have they fixed that dome light thing where you don't have to get a switch to turn it off when you have the doors off of it)? Also, what accessories does one suggest in the begginning...you know i have to get something. Let's start at the end and work backwards. Go hogwild with accessories, lights, winch, subbox, don't let the chrome scare you, as in there is never enough that you can accessorize with, reminds me of a stupid pop song about a girl changing clothes. Still have to pull the fuse. Hardtops are always quiter. Same old soft top, now with tinted windows, in the 2005's. The drive is the same, better drivability with the 42RLE, 4 gears auto. You now have what we call a 'french transmission', it just sounds dirty. It refers to the puegot transmission. I say keep the one you have, or sell it and buy a refurbished CJ-6 or CJ-8 for the same price as the 2005, and twice as sexy. A nicley rebuilt one should send you out into the Jeep community well prepared. Just be warned, like the 1984 Warner Bros. classic, Gremlins, they are loveable; loveable but mischievous. HR fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Nov 26, 2008 |
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2008 05:07
|
|
|
Okay, i'm looking for a bikini top for my 2006 Jeep Wrangler Sport for the winter. All I really care about is keeping the rain out, I don't mind the cold(Drove it all last winter with a broken soft top, 45 minutes each way to work. Was generally around 35 or so, not too cold but I tell ya at 70 MPH it's cold). The soft top I have on there right now is just about impossible to get on with one person. I did it once, tieing a 2x4 to the soft top frame with some very strong string and then sitting on said 2x4 to actually bring it down enough so I could get the flaps into the channels to avoid it flapping around back there. Took me an hour and a smashed finger to get that drat thing on. I don't know why it's so hard to get on, if it's honestly like that from the factory, or they game me one from a different model after the old one broke(They warrantied it, because I bought it(The Jeep) used and a little piece of plastic broke two weeks after I got it. I'm going off on a tangent, sorry. Anywho, my problem is, all the ads say you either need the factory soft top frame in order to get just the fabric replacement, or you can buy the whole shebang. But I look at the pictures and in the rear windows, i've got a bar going across there, for support I assume. None of the pictures i've seen have that. Has anyone ever installed one of these before, and knows where that bar goes? Or am I just being a massive idiot? And hell, since i'm here, the front passenger seat is a lot more springy then the drivers side. If you grabbed it from behind and pulled, theres much less resistance in the seat back. Is this normal? It was like that when I bought, and it's not a big thing, just something i'm curious about.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2008 05:30
|
|
|
MrZig posted:My 89 cherokee's rear diff's slip yoke moves side to side, up and down, and in and out enough to make noise if you do it by hand - could this be cause for concern? My front diff feels solid. It's a rear u-joint. Ten bucks and about a half hour and you can fix it yourself. You just need a good bench vise and a good hammer and some sockets to beat on and that's about it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2008 05:34
|
|
|
Jack_Handey posted:It's a rear u-joint. Ten bucks and about a half hour and you can fix it yourself. You just need a good bench vise and a good hammer and some sockets to beat on and that's about it. Except it's the actual yoke that's moving..
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2008 05:35
|
|
|
I'd bet the U-joints are worn as well anyway. Maybe if you're lucky the nut is just loose, but then if that's the case then the bearing has been supporting the pinion loosely. Time to pull the cover and see if you can rock the pinion by hand, and see what else is loose or damaged. Have you jacked up the rear and checked for play in the shafts? Some worn D35s are so bad that you can pull the wheels out of the axle by a noticeable amount. Other than that, I'm not an axle genius, and have my own axle issues at well.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2008 07:58
|
|
|
The U joint is pretty new actually, not even a year old, though I havn't greased it in a little while. I'll check the nut the next time I can, forsure. And when I had the drums and tire off, I could pull the hub out of the axle a good quarter inch. That was on the starboard side, I didn't try the other. I think my axle is just hosed, I mean it's a dana-35 with 375,000 KM's on it.. Time for a new (used) one!
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2008 08:19
|
|
|
HR posted:Let's start at the end and work backwards. great info, thanks! I ended up buying the 05 auto, and though I miss having a manaul tranny (this is my first auto since I started driving 15 years ago) and so far I love it. Heater works great, so even in this 40 degree weather (northern goons, that is cold here in GA) I'm loving it with the soft top. The unlimited has just enough trunkspace for a trip with the wife and little girl too, I highly recommend it. Now, two quick questions: I want to replace the factory antenna with a small stubby rubber one like my old car because it whips around a lot at speed. Can you just get a universal from autozone or is there a specific one that I need to look for? I also have an autotek 10" sub that I want to put in here as soon as I get a new head unit. Has anyone heard of retrofitting one in the OEM center console? I see the grille for that stock 6.5" "sub" that can come with it (mine did not) but I want to use my speaker. Could I cut up the plastic and maybe try to fit this one or is that a pipe dream? Does anyone know of a good 10" box for a jeep that maybe bolts down or something? Everything that I am seeing comes with a speaker and I don't need that. I don't want to use that under the seat box that a lot of folks have since I see myself removing the rear seat rather regularly but I do want some kind of security so someone doesn't just walk off with it. First "mod" in the mail: new door check straps...mine were both busted when I bought it. Next purchase is going to be the clear turn signals, I think the silver jeep will look much cleaner without those ugly orange ones.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2008 16:53
|
|
|
Hit the first stop light after getting off the interstate this morning and was greeted by a small amount of steam comming out from under the hood while setting at the redlight... Once I got to work I poped the hood and checked all the lines and everything was fine but the bits under the radaitor were wet. Its leaking but only under pressure. I am going to throw a bottle of stop leak in it and hope for the best until next pay day when I can score a new radaitor. Just spent a good bit on a new cat this week for it and with a trip to NY next week it may just sit for a while do to a lack of funds. Its a 96 5.2 ZJ, with little to no heat, clicking left front axle and not a water feature in the front...
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2008 15:25
|
|
|
evilnissan posted:I am going to throw a bottle of stop leak in it and hope for the best until next pay day when I can score a new radaitor. Just spent a good bit on a new cat this week for it and with a trip to NY next week it may just sit for a while do to a lack of funds. Stop leak is terrible for your cooling system and always poses a risk of clogging coolant passages, so if you can get away with just adding coolant daily, do it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2008 17:11
|
|
|
incredibull posted:Stop leak is terrible for your cooling system and always poses a risk of clogging coolant passages, so if you can get away with just adding coolant daily, do it. I know it's bad for the coolent system and I bet this is also part of my no heat issue if the PO used it in the past and clogged up the heater core. The in and out lines on the heater are warm(the in is quite hot) but the out side it cooler than what it should be and the fact that the heater is only putting out air a little hotter than human breath tell me it may be clogged up. I was planning in flushing it all out this weekend but I think I will wait unil I get more parts in. I have only had this thing for 2 weeks and its not off to a good start. EDIT: more content.    The PO said the the HVAC got stuck on heat so he stuck that manual valve on the heater core input line to shut it off. The problem now is it sat during the summer and wasnt hardly touched until I got it. With the trans in my saturn trying to kill it self I picked this up for $1,500 thinking it would get me throught the winter with out any major issues and I am allready about $300 in repairs after 2 weeks... evilnissan fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Nov 27, 2008 |
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2008 18:27
|
|
|
Quick question: how involved would it be to replace the heater system on my 1990 4.0 Cherokee? The heater in there now is terribly weak - I live in Colorado and the current heater is practically worthless during the coldest days. I drove up to the mountains a couple of winters ago in -10 degree weather... it couldn't have been warmer than 20 degrees in my car the entire way. I had to switch out my steering hands, warming one under my rear end while the other one went numb on the wheel. Thanks for the input beforehand.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2008 21:22
|
|
|
You may want to try to back flush it. Thats what I was going to do to my ZJ this weekend and after searching though 60000 WJ blend door threads on jeepfourms.com all I could find was back flush or replace. I assume this would be the same situation on your XJ. This is assuming your coolent is comming up to temp while driving.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2008 22:27
|
|
|
That's interesting. I actually completely flushed my system yesterday to get rid of rust build up from running water through it for years. I have yet to drive anywhere besides the store down the street and didn't even think it could improve the heating situation.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2008 23:21
|
|
|
evilnissan posted:
God, getting a Cherokee up to temp when it's 10 degrees outside and you've got places you need to be sucks. In the summertime jeeps always like to overheat, but when it gets outside, the 4.0 takes a loving ridiculous amount of time to warm up.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2008 23:45
|
|
|
Jack_Handey posted:God, getting a Cherokee up to temp when it's 10 degrees outside and you've got places you need to be sucks. In the summertime jeeps always like to overheat, but when it gets outside, the 4.0 takes a loving ridiculous amount of time to warm up. My Cherokee takes a good 10 minutes to even get decently warm air out of the vents. It might be because of a sticking (open) thermostat though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2008 23:47
|
|
|
Yea my 5.2 takes a good 7-8 miles of my 12 miles trip to work to come up to normal operating temp, but at just a hair below 210 I still have little heat coming out of the vents. I did find my leak and its is coming from one of the core rows and not a end tank.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2008 00:10
|
|
|
I'm considering a 1995 YJ Wrangler and I'm wondering how bad it would be to get one with only a soft top. I live in Portland, Oregon and our winters are very mild so I'm not worried about the cold, but it rains a lot and I'm wondering if a soft top will keep the rain out. Thoughts or suggestions? For reference, here's the one I'm looking at currently: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/933783632.html though the "freshly redone interior" bit scares me. I emailed earlier today to ask the dealer why the interior was redone, but being a holiday, I doubt I'll hear anything back soon.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2008 01:35
|
|
|
It largely depends on the quality and condition of the soft top. A cheap brand will have poor stitching and after the top has been on and off a few times coupled with exposure, it'll likely start to leak. I had a Bestop sailcloth on my YJ and it kept everything out just fine (yes, even up here in Washington). That one looks like a Bestop replace-a-top, so it's probably okay. The only thing you'll really have to watch out for is the window frames -- since that one has the half doors, medium and strong winds can make the uppers flare out a bit and some rain may get in if it's really pissing down, but not a whole lot. Also make sure the seals are in good condition as they're just foam and damage easily when people take their doors off for the summer and don't store them properly. The header channel on the windshield is also susceptible to some leakage at speed but is easily fixed with a pop-rivet kit and some silicone. Hmm.. looks like they forgot to replace the door handle strap there. When mine broke, trying to close the door was a bitch. Make sure they give you one along with the rest of the (non-scratched hopefully) windows. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Nov 28, 2008 |
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2008 02:51
|
|
|
Fry nailed it. The sailcloth top is really quiet in town and keeps dry, even here in Seattle. The soft half-doors can get really noisy on the freeway. My passenger half door is from a YJ, and is quite a bit louder than the TJ half. I keep earplugs in the glovebox for extended trips. Some days I don't mind it, some days it pisses me off completely. I'd suggest getting some fiberglass slider halfs if you drive on the freeway a lot. Dealing with zippers is another issue. You have to keep them lubricated, and don't abuse them. The PO of my Jeep didn't do either, and I've yet to take it in to a marine canvas shop to get them repaired, so I just can't use the passenger half door or the rear window. I think the consensus around most Jeep forums is that finding a full soft top is harder and more expensive after purchase than it is to find a hard top. There's lots of little straps, arms, joints, etc. that make the soft top work. The only thing you might have to do to put on a hard top is wire in switches for defrost and wipers. When summer rolls around you won't care about the negatives of the soft top. I found every excuse I could get to keep the top down until the constant rain and cold started in the last month or so. What's wrong with the redone interior? I did this to my Explorer, which had all sorts of interior rattles and broken parts. Took everything apart, fixed all the little rattles, and replaced the broken stuff. That interior looks fantastic. Jump on that thing soon or it'll probably be gone by the end of the weekend. A YJ with less than 80K miles? If I didn't have mine I'd drive down to Portland just to grab that. incredibull fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Nov 28, 2008 |
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2008 04:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 00:37 |
|
|
Thanks for the advice, Fry and incredibull. I agree that the interior is very nice in the pics, but 'redone interior' makes me worry that it was in a flood or fire. It's got a clean title and the carfax is available, but if it wasn't claimed, it won't show up, and I'm extra paranoid. I suppose I probably shouldn't be, but even the low miles + low price makes me wary about a replacement cluster... I should probably just relax, go take a look at it, drive it around, and buy the fucker. It may also be worth mentioning that this won't really be a daily driver. My DD is the bus or a bicycle (I'm 2 miles from work). This will be for errands of more than a few miles and getting out to the mountains or the beach (or Seattle) on the weekends. It'll be used more in fair weather, but I only have on-street parking and I don't want it to get all damp and mildewey inside. Edit: I looked at my budget, and I'm actually doing better than I thought. I got a promotion at work several months ago with a raise and I've continued using my pre-raise budget, so I'm going to go drive a TJ today, and see how I feel about it. nanodroogie fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Nov 28, 2008 |
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2008 07:31
|
|