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The King of Swag posted:I have to be honest, when it comes to off-roading, I find much more joy in "expeditions", going far out into the middle of nowhere, around and over rough and inhospitable terrain... Me too. I've had plenty of friends into mudding and rock crawling, and it's not a bad way to kill an afternoon. But I spent my entire childhood in the back of my family's Jeeps heading to the middle of nowhere, and that's stuck with me. Get away from civilization, see the things nobody sees. It also tends not to involve spending buckets of cash on a build, which doesn't hurt. Tent + Jeep + nowhere = Happiness. Unfortunately my ZJ just went into the shop for the last time and I have no idea what I'm going to replace it with. Shopping for a new Jeep in 110 degrees is going to be miserable.
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Jun 26, 2008 23:34
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CommieGIR posted:That and Grand Cherokees just don't look as good Lies! Unless you're talking about the WJs, or the 96+ ZJs, in which case high-five. On another note entirely, how are the JK Wranglers holding up for you guys that have had them a while? I'm shopping for one, but people on the internets bitching about rusty hinges and the Freedom Top are making me worry.
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Jun 30, 2008 17:48
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Uncle Sam hates your freedom.  That's part of it, anyway. The other part is that ESP turns itself off automatically in low range, and Partial Off (press and release) won't get in your way in high range under most circumstances.
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Jul 22, 2008 01:06
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:lets compromise and go for big barefoot gas pedal then. The big barefoot gas pedal and that bike/clutch pedal are made for each other.
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Jul 29, 2008 21:47
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evilnissan posted:I need a small truck not a v8 600' to the gallon monster that I will break every weekend. Fold down the rear seats and it is a small truck! Problem solved! Well, maybe not the breaking it every weekend part...
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Jul 30, 2008 01:02
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MetalClawWolf posted:I'm not going to be doing crazy stuff, The worst I did on my waggy was sink it in a 4 foot deep mudhole. That considered, yes, you could almost certainly get away with a Commander if you want one. By the numbers, you're looking at a vehicle roughly equivalent to a stock Waggy, plus about an inch more running ground clearance. Find one with QD2 and you'll have traction to spare (though QT2 is capable itself). But if what you really want is a Wagoneer of some kind, the Commander isn't going to fill that niche. It'll get you the same places, sure, but it's not the same vehicle.
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Sep 9, 2008 21:01
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incredibull posted:I'm wondering how many of you guys with 4.0s have had to change the rear main, and what mileage did it give out? Started dribbling oil around 90K, replaced it around 100K. I could have gone longer, but they already had it to do all the control arms and cut me a deal.
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Oct 23, 2008 15:05
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Gavitron posted:So "easing into" a creek would be a bad idea...? I think I will wait a few years before attempting a river crossing such as this then. :/ I've not yet had enough practice in an expendable vehicle to try something like this in my new baby. "Easing in" as in not driving in at 40 miles an hour is fine and desirable. You want to be reasonable and maintain forward motion. You can even gradually accelerate as you're going in slowly; you just don't want to decelerate or (God help you) stop. If your idea of easing in is going partway in, stopping to wring your hands, and repeating... you'll be wet.
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Nov 17, 2008 06:55
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mcvey posted:Just picked up a 1990 Jeep Cherokee Ltd with the 4.0 i6 for the winter. I hope you mean "for life." You can't just cast a Cherokee off in a couple months like an unloved child. 
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Dec 2, 2008 17:37
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yaffle posted:Why would my air filter have quite a lot of oil in it? (88 cherokee 4.0) Usually blowby from a restricted CCV system. Assuming that's it, you can solve the problem with fresh CCV system parts... Run you $30-40 for everything you need, any dealership parts guy should know exactly what you need. ^^^ drat you! 
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Dec 4, 2008 23:56
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Ninja Dan posted:Alright, maybe you guys can give me he a hand here. I have a 93 Cherokee, and the lock on the driver side door is jammed. In many cases, this will work: Tools Needed
Procedure 1. Enter the Jeep through a door that still works. 2. Sit in the seat nearest the jammed door. 3. Have your friend push the jammed door against the body as hard as possible. The area around the door handle is ideal. 4. While your friend is pushing, try to unlock the door from the inside. If your friend is a weakling, you may get results by pulling the door toward you with one hand while he pushes, and using your free hand to work the lock. If trying this doesn't get you anywhere, then it's on to more exciting solutions. But this one's free, easy, and works most of the time.
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Dec 17, 2008 20:26
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synthexic posted:1) Can I shift from 4x2 into 4x4 while the vehicle is in motion? The manual said at one point no because it won't properly synchronize, but at another part it said it can be shifted going 2-3 miles per hour and it's preferred that way. High range is shift-on-the-fly. Pull and go. You may need to let off the gas for a few seconds while it completes the shift. Jeep used to say you could shift "at any legal speed," they now say 55 or under. Low range, you should already be in high range. Shift the transmission into neutral. In one smooth motion, pull the transfer case shifter into neutral, push it right, and pull it into 4Lo. You can shift into low either from a stop or rolling at 2-3 miles per hour. It's easier if you're rolling. quote:2) Which should I use if I am driving in the snow? Lo Mode, or High Mode? And how do I shift between them? I can't seem to move the lever smoothly, and I feel like I can only switch into LoMode. Start out in high. If you're moving slowly and need the extra grunt you can shift to 4Lo. Take note of the maximum speeds in the manual; you will grenade your transfer case if you try to cruise along like a maniac. Depending on the snow, you may be better in 2WD. The transfer case shifter should stop at Neutral and require you to push it away from you to move into 4Lo. If that's not happening, something's weird. Maybe it's you, maybe it's the Jeep.  It should lock in at each of the positions, so if you're expecting it to be smooth like the gearshift, it won't be.
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Dec 23, 2008 19:48
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Ninja Dan posted:I've got the door panel off but from there can't see anything wrong... thought I'd ask for advice here before tearing in any farther. If adjusting the latch doesn't get you anywhere (generally it won't for this problem, but it doesn't hurt to try) and the rods don't appear to be bent out of whack, the solution is to replace the latch.
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Dec 28, 2008 05:49
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Ethox posted:My friends Mom just gave me her 95 Grand Cherokee with 130,000 miles on it. I fixed the brake lines and put a new battery to get it onto the road. After driving it for the day I've noticed the transmission acting up. It goes into every gear fine, but when I try to go up hill it doesn't seem to want to down shift to give me the power needed. Even when I floor it the RPM's wont go over 2,000. I can cruise in normal city driving conditions, but since it doesn't rev any high I cant reach anything past 50 MPH. Anyone know what could be causing this? jonathan's option of the Tv cable is a decent one, so is the Throttle Position Sensor (which is how the PCM decides where the accelerator is, and thus how to shift and run). In a perfect world the TPS would quit working how Jeep expects it should and throw a code; in the real world it often fails in a way that impacts drivability but offers no other signs. Just for the hell of it, turn the key from OFF to RUN three times quickly, write down how the check engine light flashes, and post back here. It'll flash you a series of two-digit numbers using short gaps to indicate digit position and long gaps to indicate a new code. 32, for example, would be F.F.F...F.F...... 55 indicates the end of codes, so you can turn it off at that point. Edit: According to the 95 service manual, the light by the O/D switch should also flash, reading out codes from the transmission module. So get those too. You can do the key trick as many times as you need to. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Jan 14, 2009 |
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Jan 14, 2009 18:05
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jonathan posted:My pops is about to sell off his mustang, old chevy 4x4 and his old cadillac and look for a good deal on an 08 JK Rubicon Unlimited. anyone know if you're forced to run a 16" or larger wheel, or will a 15" fit ? He can try the 15s he has to see if they work, but there's no hard rule to what will and won't fit. 16" and up you're pretty much good.
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Jan 18, 2009 18:14
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jonathan posted:How normal is a minor clunk when going from reverse to drive with the brakes on in a 98 XJ ? FSJ, XJ, ZJ, WJ... if it's not a Wrangler, it probably does it. And if it's a Wrangler, it might. There are actually troubleshooting procedures for it in the FSM, but it generally seems to be harmless. If you took it to a mechanic, anyone who works on Jeeps with any frequency would want an actual problem before being concerned about it. And I second the swaybar bushings. Control arm bushings are worth checking while your head's under there, but the swaybar bushings are basically completely unprotected from the elements. I'll even put it on the line and guess it's the bushings on the upright where the link bolts into the swaybar.
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Jan 22, 2009 18:39
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cory ad portas posted:WD-40 didn't do the trick either. WD-40 is weak sauce and not really meant for that purpose. Try PB Blaster.
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Apr 8, 2009 20:43
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incredibull posted:I was under the impression that the dash logic in the TJ/Cherokee/Grand Cherokee was all of the same, but maybe not. They started dicking with it in the late 90s and haven't stopped since. Works on some vehicles, doesn't on others, comes and goes across sequential model years... Your idea is sound, Chrysler's production practices not so much.
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Apr 28, 2009 02:17
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I don't know who at Chrysler the AEV guys had to sleep with to get access to all the cool toys, but drat, I love it. If the restructuring interferes with their sales partnerships and skunkworks projects, I'll be sad. 
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May 23, 2009 07:56
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Autoblog.com posted:With Chrysler's proposed alliance with Fiat all but a done deal, people have begun turning their attention towards the Italian automaker's vehicle line up and creating a wish list of which ones they'd like to see for sale over here in the U.S. [...] And so we present you this, the 2011 Jeep Phoenix, a wish for what might be when Chrysler starts getting new vehicles from Fiat. The owner of this idea claims the Fiat Panda Cross 4x4 is an eminently suitable canvas on which to create a small, fuel efficient yet very capable Jeep. God help us if New Chrysler produces something that ugly under the Jeep brand.
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May 29, 2009 03:00
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They're significantly more useful, accurate, and contain the sections where Haynes just plops in "Take your vehicle to a professional mechanic." Here's a random page from my 93 manual since it's what I have handy:  Click here for the full 1224x1584 image.
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May 30, 2009 20:17
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penga86 posted:I'm trying to add freon to my 98 jeep grand cherokee and i'm having the damndest time trying to find the "low pressure port" to add my magical cooling crap. I found the high pressure side near the coolant tank, but it;s like 95 psi when i connect the tube so i'll just as soon not blow up the can of stuff... You found it—why it's reading 95 psi is another matter altogether. Low side port is in the rear of the engine bay by the coolant tank, high side is directly off the compressor. Edit: You're reading psi markings and not kPa, right? 95 would be reasonable by kPa if you were low on R134. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 22:41 on May 31, 2009 |
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May 31, 2009 22:38
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fordham posted:I'd love to know if anyone on these forums has any tricks to sealing up a Jeep evaporator. If you take it to a dealer it'll run you ~$1200 because it's buried behind the dash (it's a 6-8 hour job purely because of where it's located). You can sawzall through the HVAC box and then JB Weld/glue/epoxy/duct tape it back together. I'm not a proponent of this method, but some people would rather do it that way than pull the dash. It's honestly not horrible to just pull the dash if you've got a day to kill. Or a garage in which to leave your half-disassembled Jeep.
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Jun 1, 2009 16:12
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leica posted:I've read reports of a "death wobble" on Edmunds, is this a common problem? It shouldn't be on a JK. Death wobble comes primarily from severe component wear or a godawful alignment. If you test drive one with death wobble, this is not a good sign. quote:Also trying to decide if used or new is the way to go, looks like there's an incentive that if you buy a new one you can get write off the tax, and am I right to assume the lifetime warranty doesn't transfer? Lifetime doesn't transfer. If it's a Certified Pre-Owned vehicle, you can upgrade to lifetime from the CPO 6/80, though. You can also add a Chrysler service plan to any vehicle under 4/48, CPO or not. As much value as Wranglers hold, you may well be better off with new.
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Jun 9, 2009 02:52
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The main cause of fast clutch cycling is a low refrigerant level. Have you already had it evacuated and recharged?
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Jun 17, 2009 05:40
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carlcarlson posted:2nd question, I noticed in the users manual that at 12,000 miles I need to change the air conditioner filter. Unless you got a bum copy of the manual, the only air filter listed should be the engine air cleaner filter (which is changed at 12K). The JK doesn't have a cabin air filter, even as an accessory.
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Jun 20, 2009 20:53
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leica posted:Anyone ever retrofit power locks on their Cherokee? I'm thinking it shouldn't be too bad since everything is pre wired. Dammit, i just saw a write-up on this last month when I was looking for something unrelated. Pictures and everything. Might have been at NAXJA? leica posted:Oh poo poo, are you sure? How can I tell for sure if it's a D44? The 44 cover is kind of a lopsided vaguely hexagonal shape. Here is a graphic.
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Jul 1, 2009 16:51
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Unless Jeep decided to mix it up with the Wranglers, the lighter feed should be switched. Real easy to check if you've got a car adapter of any kind.
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Jul 22, 2009 01:38
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Reason posted:I'm looking at economical ways to keep a kayak on my roof. Does anyone know if Yakima Universal Mighty Mounts will work with a '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee? Does anyone have any experience with them? They will fit the ZJ roof rack, but personally I'd sooner get a set of Yak (or Thule) towers and crossbars. The factory crossbars are flimsy as poo poo. Especially after this many years. Kinda blows the whole "economical" thing out of the water, I know, but in my opinion the construction's conducive to your kayak going flying off the vehicle with the OEM crossbars attached. If they feel solid to you, though, go hog wild with the Mighty Mounts. REI is/was having a good sale on either Yak or Thule stuff, but I can't remember what all was included or if it's still running now. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Jul 25, 2009 |
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Jul 25, 2009 22:17
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The V6 is kind of shoehorned into the Liberty, but a plug change isn't horrible on that engine or even in that engine bay. Pop off the resonator, unbolt the coils, and it's easy from there. You can even leave the resonator on if you don't mind being squeezed for space. You'll need a 10mm socket if you don't already have one.
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Jul 26, 2009 23:46
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Doctor Zero posted:My 1999 Grand Cherokee needs new shocks, but I don't have a lot of money to put really nice ones on. Are the cheap parts store ones one step above nothing? Is there one brand better than the others? Grab some Monroe SensaTracs. Same price point, ride nice, lifetime warranty. If you want to spend a couple bucks more, the Monroe Reflex has a nicer ride. Rancho offers their full line in stock and lifted sizes if you want to go that route, but you're going to spend at least $45 per. Hell, if you've got a Sears Auto nearby, half the time they're running SensaTracs on Buy 3/Get 1 with free installation. Edit: Skyjacker has shocks for stock or lifted too. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Jul 29, 2009 |
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Jul 29, 2009 22:04
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Too big. Stock's 245/65. 255/65 will fit with no effort, but from there something's got to give. If he's planning on lifting it, up to a 33 will fit with 2".
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Aug 2, 2009 19:25
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It never hurts to try the Tv cable adjustment... that tends to be the first place people go when they think shifting is off and they usually gently caress it up. If it's the ratcheting kind (I can't keep track, and frankly neither could Jeep), adjust it all the way in and then stomp on the gas. Voila, instant starting point. The Jeep should be off, obviously. When you say won't shift properly, though, what's the problem? Delays in one direction or both, won't shift in one direction or both, all gears affected or only some gears?
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Aug 16, 2009 19:22
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What is a running light to you? The side markers/parking lights are just plain ol' 194 bulbs (either clear or amber depending on your lamp housing). If you've got daytime running lamps, it's just the low beam, which is an off-the-shelf 9006XS. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Oct 9, 2009 |
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Oct 9, 2009 16:19
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Doctor Zero posted:Maybe the parts counter monkeys were just being stupid. Probably. There has seemed to be a shortage of 194 bulbs lately, but that wouldn't explain them not even being able to look up the part.
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Oct 9, 2009 18:16
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leica posted:Anyone feel free to voice their opinions on YJ vs. TJ, could help me sway my decision. Two words: Round headlights.
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Oct 11, 2009 23:27
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incredibull posted:They also rutted the gently caress out of all my favorite trails with their 38" DICK CEPEKZZZ. I'm of the mind Tread Lightly should start providing baseball bats for "on-the-trail training." There's land all over Arizona that's closed, restricted, or destroyed because of assholes like that. Drives me nuts. The last time I hit one of my favorite places, part of the trail was rutted several inches deep because some jackass(es?) decided to drive where they had no business to. Sierra Club's already been eyeballing that whole area, too.
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Oct 16, 2009 16:18
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jonathan posted:The 5.2 litre is a Chrysler design. This is why you should stick with the 4.0. It also has a non-Chrysler transmission which is also a huge bonus. Most of the '93s and all the rest of the Grand Cherokee 4.0s have a Chrysler tranny. And it's a shittier one than the 5.2 got. Edit: And speaking as someone who owned an AW4 Grand Cherokee, buying one now is a horrible idea. None of the third-party data sources acknowledge they exist, which means every mechanic or parts store you go to and every service manual you read will try to do something wrong. And because Chrysler swapped it out so quickly, parts availability for anything specific to the AW4s (which is a fair amount) is pretty much nil now. Some parts can be borrowed from a '92 XJ, but a lot of parts can't, and you end up boned. 4.0, 5.2, any year... just avoid the ones with 1-2 on the gearshift and no overdrive button. The Chrysler transmissions aren't that horrible if they've been treated well and you treat them well. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Oct 27, 2009 |
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Oct 27, 2009 17:33
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WildFoxMedia posted:Doing any kind of off-roading/trails? Go with a WJ. Depends. What's your definition of off-roading and trails? There's a hell of a lot more aftermarket for the WJ at this point, and you'll also probably feel a lot less bad about beating it around if you're really getting into the rough stuff. You can get it with the I6 if that's what gets you off, and it uses relatively simple "dumb" transfer cases. Which isn't to say the t-cases won't fail, they're just conceptually/functionally more simple and potentially easier to repair. Cargo space is more usable on the WJ despite being roughly the same overall size between the two models. Plus you can stuff things under the rear seat bottoms. On the flip side, the WK's got a smaller but high-quality selection of aftermarket parts, and still upgrades nicely for most purposes. Per Jeep engineering, it has more front articulation (!) and holds traction better than the WJ. The unibody is also stiffened a considerable amount. Transfer cases are full-time (vs. most of the WJs having progressive AWD), but they're also no longer dumb—there's electronic black magic running a torque biasing clutch. And if you're throwing it into the thick of things, it's currently a much more expensive vehicle. Not that that stops Land Rover or Touareg owners. Hell, or Wrangler owners anymore.
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Nov 27, 2009 08:22
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WildFoxMedia posted:4 quarts Mopar Diff Lube / Expensive. At $30/bottle list, I can only assume it's made from the tears of a unicorn. Most of the Mopar fluids are reasonable or even inexpensive, but the drat diff lube is $10+ more than a good off-the-shelf 75W140 full syn. I don't know what makes Mopar think it commands that price. My local dealer charges the bargain price of $22/bottle, which is at least within touching distance of reality, but still... Jeez.
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Jan 2, 2010 22:18
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