|
Blasting into water can cause it to surge up against the grill and then your air intake is sucking that poo poo in, then you're hydro-locked. No fun there. And if you have a manual, try not to shift, especially in muddy crap. Just picked up a stock '99 Cherokee to replace my stolen YJ. Immaculate interior; some minor urban blemishes. Planning on a 5.5"+ long-arm kit, alloy shafts, SYE and 35's to start off. 
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2008 04:26
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 07:09 |
|
|
Gavitron posted:I see. Yep, beefier main shaft and it uses a double-cardan CV joint on the external to eliminate vibrations due to the increased angle from the transfer case to the axle after a lift. On the off-chance you bust the joint, you can pull the rear shaft and limp home in front-wheel drive without having to worry about your t-case leaking fluid all the way. Assuming you don't have the parts for a trail repair, anyway. I ran my YJ with just a t-case drop for a while but the angle generated extra friction over time, wore the grease out of the u-joint and that mother let go at 60 MPH on the freeway. Beat the living hell out of the muffler. SYE Before: (you can see how the shaft slips in/out of the case's weak tailcone to compensate suddenly-adjusting angle)  SYE After: (notice the GL3 stain and shiny new muffler) 
Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Nov 18, 2008 |
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2008 05:15
|
|
|
sanchez posted:Ugh, I changed my coolant 2000 miles ago in preparation for winter, the Jeep has just started leaking a header tank full of coolant every trip to work and back (a few hours driving). From what i can see it's coming from right in the middle of the engine (4.0) at the front, where the water pump is. Replacement looks like awesome fun It's actually pretty easy, though it can be somewhat time-consuming for such a small fix. The only problem I ran into was removing the original hardline from the old pump; that bitch was on there tight. It took two sets of vice grips and a near-aneurysm to pull mine off but yours is fairly new so I doubt it will be as much of a hassle. This writeup is for an XJ but pretty much the same as it's the 4.0L: http://jeepin.com/features/waterpump/index.asp benzero posted:Well, here's my new baby. 05 unlimited wrangler. got a quadratec catalog and I can tell I am going to go broke quickly. Congrats, and nice. Any idea what rims those are? Quadratec is great for browsing ideas and general accessories but you can almost always find better deals elsewhere if you're getting actual components.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2008 02:27
|
|
|
It largely depends on the quality and condition of the soft top. A cheap brand will have poor stitching and after the top has been on and off a few times coupled with exposure, it'll likely start to leak. I had a Bestop sailcloth on my YJ and it kept everything out just fine (yes, even up here in Washington). That one looks like a Bestop replace-a-top, so it's probably okay. The only thing you'll really have to watch out for is the window frames -- since that one has the half doors, medium and strong winds can make the uppers flare out a bit and some rain may get in if it's really pissing down, but not a whole lot. Also make sure the seals are in good condition as they're just foam and damage easily when people take their doors off for the summer and don't store them properly. The header channel on the windshield is also susceptible to some leakage at speed but is easily fixed with a pop-rivet kit and some silicone. Hmm.. looks like they forgot to replace the door handle strap there. When mine broke, trying to close the door was a bitch. Make sure they give you one along with the rest of the (non-scratched hopefully) windows. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Nov 28, 2008 |
|
#
¿
Nov 28, 2008 02:51
|
|
|
A light coating of lithium grease or graphite spray will keep the zippers happy and Scotch-guarding the seams once in a while will give even the cheapest tops some added life. I'm not sure what constitutes 'redone interior' but the seats don't look stock for that trim package. They could just be covers, but it's hard to tell. The floorboards also look very dark... it may have been spray-lined (a good thing). But this is all just speculation from my general knowledge of Sahara packages. V  VYJ's are pretty solid for the most part and '95 was the last production year so 5K for that low of miles is very decent, especially with the I6 and a manual tranny. They were also very popular for towing around behind motorhomes, so don't let low miles be too big of a red flag.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 28, 2008 10:08
|
|
|
nanodroogie posted:Edit: Har, har. Point taken. I saw your post before the edit and you're probably going to have to compromise at some point. On the rare occasion that a Wrangler is in really good shape, chances are the owners or dealership are asking more than what it's really worth. If it's a good deal, chances are it's been beaten to hell or generally neglected. They are also seasonal vehicles that people buy on a whim for summer and then dump in the winter, so there's tons of them out there. You just have to decide what you really want out of one specifically and then hold yourself to it. YJ's are tons easier to work on than TJ's and the aftermarket stuff is usually a bit cheaper as well, even if it's the same component. A lot of people prefer the I6 because they usually upgrade to bigger tires at some point which really bogs down an I4 on the highway. Sure they have shorter gears in the axles, but the I6 has a huge advantage in torque to make that up with. As they say, "there's no replacement for displacement". Of course unless you lift it, 31's are going to max out your wheel wells anyway. I had an AX-15 which never caused a problem, but I don't know anything about the AX-5 or its reliability concerns. Triple E posted:Man, I love my TJ, but I have to say I love the interior of the YJ. All those gauges across most of the dashboard just look so loving no-nonsense. A lot of TJ owners I know like it better, too. It's simple, effective and doesn't make you feel like you're driving a mini-van. Very utilitarian. It should be that simple, however Torx bolts can be a bitch to remove sometimes. I believe mine were even painted while already installed at the factory, so they were even more stuck in place. You're not replacing the hinge receivers on the body?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2008 07:44
|
|
|
Triple E posted:Yes, utilitarianism. Why did the designers ever get away from the KISS philosophy when it comes to Wranglers? As much as I wish mine was a YJ, I'm just so happy it's not a JK. Lord, I hate that interior (and the new body style)! I don't know either. DC went all sorts of crazy with their designs... I mean ditching the Cherokee for the Compass?  Agreed about the JK's. I haven't seen that much plastic since the Chevy Avalanche. Love the sideways CRX-inspired exhaust and hanging shock mounts that look like they're begging to be destroyed on small rocks.Ah, I missed the earlier post. So long as the hinge stems fit into the receivers okay, they should be fine. Maybe even thread the new bolts with some blue Loctite to be sure they don't come loose.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2008 08:28
|
|
|
The only thing I don't like about the 5.5" RE long arm kit is that the crossmember really hangs down there and just looks like it's begging to get caught up on something. I'm planning on doing a hybrid with the front and rear components of that kit but paired with the T&T Customs Y-link. And yes, the HP D30 will bolt in fine. 95-99 for one with the 297x u-joints. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Jan 5, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Jan 5, 2009 03:18
|
|
|
jonathan posted:Was a beautiful XJ, 5 minutes after posting that I walked outside and it was gone  That's hosed up. I had my YJ stolen almost two years ago (about 10k worth of work done mysefl) and nothing has turned up to this day. I hope you catch the scum and curbstomp their faces in. Best of luck in its return.  edit: Note to self. Install mutliple killswitches immediately. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Jan 5, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Jan 5, 2009 03:29
|
|
|
Well the loose one on the left is the crankcase breather/PCV valve. It just vents into the airbox normally and gets processed through the intake but because you have a cold air intake with no box to plug into, it's just sitting there which is fine.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2009 01:29
|
|
|
It's cool, it's just your engine expelling some combustion gases and oil vapor. You'd normally never notice it because it gets sucked up in the intake. EDIT: It does seem to be leaving a nice sticky residue on your manifold though. I'd try to route it somewhere else so it won't make a mess. I think most aftermarket intakes have fittings to couple those two loose lines into the intake tube, is that some sort of homebrew filter? Waffleimages is being poopy... my photobucket hosting. 
Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Jan 13, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2009 01:35
|
|
|
Actually, I think the hose on the left is the intake part of the vacuum system an there should be another at the back near the #6 cylinder ('exhaust') which ends up coming out of the hose on the right. The system is unable to circulate itself properly and vent into the intake manifold. Basically, you're sucking in some unfiltered air into the crankcase. I've never messed around with CAI systems, so I can't say for sure if there's any real reason for concern or not. I'd say ask the shop about it as it should be an easy enough fix to just tap the vacuum into the CAI tube or replace it with one with proper fittings. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Jan 13, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2009 02:53
|
|
|
jonathan posted:On an unrelated note: Chrysler 8.25" rear diff. Good or bad ? What about with a locker ? I assume it's better than the Dana35 and Dana30, but worse than the Dana44 ? Can it live with 33" tires ? What about 35" ? There are two variations of the 8.25: 27 spline and 29 spline ('97 and up, I believe). D44's are 8.5 and have 30 spline shafts, so they are fairly close in terms of strength. I'd definitely recommend regearing to at least 4.56 if you intend on running 33's and upgrading the shafts with 1541H Yukon alloys for 35's to deal with the added torque and will handle a locker as well. Or, you can hunt around for a Ford 8.8 to swap in with no worries and get discs in the rear, too. Of course a lot of it depends on your driving habits and luck as well. I ran 33's on my YJ with the stock 3.07/D35c for years and never had a problem.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2009 15:48
|
|
|
jonathan posted:Can anyone tell me why slip yoke eliminators/driveshafts are moer expensive for the np242 transfer case ? Seems like most of the newer jeeps have selec-trac/np242's under them. The Slip yoke elim kits cost extra for the np242. Is this a bad transfer case ? A lot of the places I have seen online include a ~$400 core charge with their NP242 SYE kits for the main shaft. So once you get your kit installed and send them your stock main shaft back (and in some cases the tail housing), you get $400 refunded. In the end, it comes to about the same cost as a NP231 kit.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2009 03:51
|
|
|
Sylvania Silverstars are affordable and really light up the road for a sealed beam lamp.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2009 20:46
|
|
|
jonathan posted:Can anyone recomend some heavy duty bumpers ? As long as the bumper is set up properly for mounting points and the hitch is welded all the way though it shouldn't be an issue. I stumbled across this guy's site who does some really great work and will fab up just about anything you want (to avoid that mass produced cookie-cutter look). Just ordered some SuperRails and the SlikRok winch bumper from him; he's great to deal with. http://www.ajsoffroadarmor.com/products.php
|
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2009 05:14
|
|
|
incredibull posted:3" of body lift on a 15 year old vehicle scares the crap out of me, especially if the lift has been on there a while. Some cheap body lifts don't have galvanized bolts, and they rust out, and body roll is severely increased with a body lift because the bolts and pucks will flex on sharp turns. 3" is definitely too much but 1" isn't bad if you're just doing a budget boost or leveling out the driveline angle a bit (installed in tandem with a 1" motor mount lift). Also, given the condition I see a lot of used YJ/TJ's in due to road salted-winters, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace some of those bolts and mounts anyway. titaniumone posted:This is the only picture I have. The lift doesn't look nearly as ridiculous as in your mockup. Maybe some of his numbers are off? Maybe he meant an 8 cm (  ) lift? There's definitely 3" of body lift judging from the gap above the rear bumper but the leafs don't look to have much arch left at all; whatever size they were. My 5.5" RE XD lift had almost twice as much clearance in the wheel wells as that with zero body lift. Seems a bit steep for a 15 year old YJ but then again the low mileage is a great find and should run for many, many years if properly maintained.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2009 06:40
|
|
|
I think this is it, unless someone wants to start a new one... http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2755109
|
|
#
¿
Mar 28, 2009 00:42
|
|
|
75W is fine but if you're out there abusing your Jeep with oversized tires on the trails constantly you might want to run a little heavier. When I last did the diffs I used 80W because it was the only weight in synthetic that I could find enough bottles of in the store to do the job.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 9, 2009 15:39
|
|
|
Boomerjinks posted:Have you guys seen this jeep project? It still has coils.  Seriously though, that's pretty cool. I'm really digging the olive drab canvas they used for the top/door skins in contrast to the military green paint. Is there a write-up link to this? I'm interested to hear some of the ideas during the design process.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2009 21:28
|
|
|
incredibull posted:The tires are too wide. Even MT/KM 12.50's just barely rub on leafs at full turn; also depends on rim backspacing. But yeah he needs some tall skinnies on there. Hard cornering isn't something he should be doing too much of anyway since he ditched the swaybar. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Apr 24, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Apr 24, 2009 03:07
|
|
|
Jack_Handey posted:gently caress yeah! That's what I'm talking about! Did he do anything about the useless 3.8 V6 under the hood? It's a chopped GMC 3500HD frame with panels/hood/clip/engine from a JK. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=720472
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2009 00:55
|
|
|
incredibull posted:You don't need a code reader to pull the codes anyway. Put the key in, do ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON with it, and the codes will read out on the odometer. Does this work with all OBD-II systems? All it does on my '99 Cherokee is do a dash test (all the lights light up, gauges peg, odo LED's read 888888 etc). About once a month since I bought it, I get a CEL but it goes away on its own after a day or two. Not knowing much about the previous maintenance history, I figure it's worth the investment to get a simple code reader for easy diagnostics given the plethora of sensors the 4.0 seems to have.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2009 22:48
|
|
|
incredibull posted:That's strange because the dash test is supposed to be a separate function. I believe you do the same key sequence while holding the odometer reset down. It's either that or you just turn the key to ON while holding the odometer reset. I've done it in my Wrangler before, but I can't seem to find the info on it now. I was under the impression that the dash logic in the TJ/Cherokee/Grand Cherokee was all of the same, but maybe not. Yeah, I tried that and every other sequence and method I knew of to try and get the codes from the drat thing. I found a decent Cen-Tech scanner on ebay for $40 (the one that's usually $100+ at stores), so that should help expedite and pinpoint future diagnostics.
|
|
#
¿
May 2, 2009 22:34
|
|
|
I wouldn't go so far as to call him lucky...he did sustain some injury, just not to his happy sack. Click here for the full 1024x768 image.
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2009 09:08
|
|
|
benzero posted:Is there anything out there that has a little bass in it that we can add in place of the pods? I have heard some various soundbars and they pretty much suck. I have a sub that I can put in, but I leave the top off or doors off so much I really want something that will be harder to steal. Does anyone have a link to some decent options to consider without breaking the bank? I have considered buying the plastic box that goes into the center console, but I've heard it's just as lovely with that 6.5 in it. I'm used to having some decent sound (always had imports before) and that's the only thing that I hate about my jeep. There's always the rear seat 'mod' that you can stuff your subs into if you're the adventurous type. http://www.sirgcal.com/jeep/pics.html?section=03seat Tossed_Salad_Man posted:wheres this now? Just about anything will work. Graphite, bike chain lube, silicone... I used a stick of ski wax in a pinch once and it held up for quite some time.
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2009 12:20
|
|
|
^^^ http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2755109
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2009 15:31
|
|
|
The juddering is probably from worn clutch packs on the Trac-Lok LSD. Also, they tend to be happier when you add some friction modifier in with the gear oil. Once they wear to a certain point, you'll simply lose the LSD 'benefit', so it's not a big deal really unless you plan on hitting some snow/ice anytime soon.
|
|
#
¿
May 19, 2009 23:08
|
|
|
ilmmaf posted:Wrangler issue. Just bought a 94, soft top. The black part that holds the soft top onto the doors is on all of the other areas on the vehicle, but is missing on the back of the jeep, below the window. This leaves the back soft top of the window unattached and open at all times. Just the bottom of the back window, nothing else. It's called a tailgate bar or retaining bar. You can probably find them cheaper at a junkyard or on ebay; TJ bars up to '06 will work also. http://www.quadratec.com/products/11033_301.htm Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 03:42 on May 25, 2009 |
|
#
¿
May 25, 2009 03:39
|
|
|
fordham posted:Thanks for the info. How do I determine what rear axle I have? Only the D35 c-clip and the 8.25 were used on 00's. If you have ABS, it's definitely the 35 as the 8.25 didn't have ABS as an option. Then there's always the diff comparison: http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/axlechart.jpg The housing of the 8.25 has a very flat bottom edge while the D35 is a bit more rounded to match the cover.
|
|
#
¿
May 27, 2009 01:20
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:The play in the front wheels doesn't sound like an alignment. I've heard other things in other places about a steering stabilizer? Is this something I should be majorly concerned about? Either bad u-joints or bad steering stabalizer. The stabalizer isn't serious, it just keeps you tracking straight if you hit some uneven pavement and takes a little stress off the other components. Just go over a speed bump; if the steering wheel shifts side-to-side it probably needs replacing. Easy enough job, but that tapered bolt in the drag link can be a pain in the rear end to get out sometimes.
|
|
#
¿
May 30, 2009 01:01
|
|
|
Most aftermarket bumpers aren't rated due to liability reasons which is why they are usually just called 'recovery points'. No one's going to make a Class III hitch rated for 5000 lbs and say "Yeah, you can use this on a TJ" just because the mounts are identical. I've noticed all of the stuff worth buying comes from the small-time fab guys anyway; they'd be crazy to put any sort of towing numbers out there on their stuff. A small trailer should be fine if it has enough mounting points or ties in high enough into the frame. When I had my YJ, I used to tow around two full size jet skis just about every weekend during the summer.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 12, 2009 20:31
|
|
|
Veeb0rg posted:for XJ's the best place has to be NAXJA.org tons of info just about the XJ there. One of the guys on JF wrote a book on the drat things: http://www.ericsxj.com/book.htm Nthing the pirate4x4 disdain. Unless you can weld all of your own stuff and with machine-like precision, you're basically a piece of poo poo 'n00b' over there. JF has its share of wannabe elitists who jump at the chance to scream about 'repost' or 'search' but then there's always a handful of guys like Jerry Bransford and Eric who have been there for years and will articulate their answers the same way every time no matter who you are or your experience level. Been a member there since '04 and have saved probably a few grand in just being able to look at some of the write ups and doing my own repairs and upgrades.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2009 00:36
|
|
|
Braincloud posted:Couple of pics from this weekend: Is that Manastash/Tripod Flats? Looks familiar but I've only ever been in the winter when everything is covered in snow. I hate you, too. My poor Cherokee is stock until work cuts me loose with my severance. Then it'll be go-hog-wild time.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 22, 2009 02:59
|
|
|
I live in WA too, and my YJ's soft top was fine even in the winter months; including trips up the passes. I didn't even own a hard top for it. Before it was stolen, I'd put a brand new sailcloth top on it which was fantastic. The only real downsides to a soft top are security and durability on trails (watch out for limbs/branches wanting to poke holes in it).
|
|
#
¿
Jun 23, 2009 03:40
|
|
|
fordham posted:The newest cherokee you can get is a 2001. Chrysler never should have stopped making them Wolfgang Bobblehead!  w1ntermute posted:Without having to start another terrible car recommendation thread, and since I'm going with a Jeep I'll just ask my question here. '89-'99 models have the AX-15 5-spd which is the same that was in the Wranglers at the time; '00-'01 have a 5-spd NV3550 (basically just a newer version of the AX-15). The '87-'89 Peugeot (French!) tranny is the one you want to avoid. I used to be all about the man-tran too, but now I prefer my automatic specifically for the off-road benefits of the torque converter creep, starting from a stop on steep hills and not having to worry about poo poo getting packed between the clutch and flywheel in deep, nasty mud. Also, manuals are just damned hard to find in later Cherokees. The downsides to the '00-'01 models are that they have a low-pinion front axle with smaller u-joints and that some of the engine block castings (#0331) are prone to cracking.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2009 02:06
|
|
|
chocmilkrush posted:How does it ride around town with that much lift? Does it steer a lot different considering the steering geometry is dramatically changed? Adjustable track bars can tighten up the steering slop after a lift as well as a drop/relocation bracket (which DILLIGAF installed) for it and a longer pitman arm depending on the amount of lift. quote:Get a 97 - 99 model. They have the strong rear axle, the stronger front axles, high pinion, and have the new style interior. Basically is you want to wheel it hard or put larger tires on etc, these are the best models to buy. And seconding this. Unless you really, really love the classic styling of the older models or can't change spark plugs ('00 & '01 are distributorless plug-on-wire), a '97-'99 are the best years to get. As far as changing diff oil goes, make sure to go around both sides of the bolt holes. I've never had a problem and usually refill with synthetic right after reinstalling the covers. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Jun 30, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2009 03:44
|
|
|
Things would have been messy if the cage were still installed. The branch would have hooked under the rear risers and overhead supports after it went through the non-reinforced windshield, probably flipping the drat thing and killing Jeff Goldblum for real(!) -- from a standpoint of cinematic suspended belief. Assuming the torx bolts held to that thin sheet metal at 30MPH, anyway.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 5, 2009 21:25
|
|
|
That looks pretty nice for a YJ, it's a '94 which is the year before they stopped production. He doesn't list the mileage which is probably the biggest factor even though the stock engine, tranny and running gear should be good for a long time. If it had standard mileage, I'd pay between 3000-3500 but if it's relatively low and the interior is okay, 4000 seems fair. The problem with TJ's is that for the same price you'd have to settle for a beat up or bare-boned '97-'99 (and probably the 2.5L) with production anomalies since it was a new model and the aftermarket stuff for them is ridiculously priced for the same parts you could get on a CJ/YJ (though coming down since the release of the JK). Not a huge factor if you don't plan on making some offroad upgrades though. YJ's also has leaf springs at all four corners, so expect a much stiffer ride than a TJ; not that it ever bothered me any though. Not sure about the turn signal, but YJ's are very utilitarian and easy to work on.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 7, 2009 23:44
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 07:09 |
|
|
Since he has OBO in there, yeah, definitely low-ball him a bit to see if he bites. That is quite a lot of miles (about 15k per year) but the 4.0 is such a solid, bulletproof engine that it should last 300k easily before a rebuild if cared for properly. There's a few cases of guys closing in on 400k with very little trouble or extensive maintenance history. http://www.allpar.com/old/club/search.php?q=4.0L&type=engine Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 07:44 on Jul 8, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Jul 8, 2009 07:39
|
|