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My rusty, dented, beautiful, unstoppable piece of poo poo: I just can't make it stop. I got it with 207k on it, 4.0L/AW4 2wd with a turdy-five out back, horrible brake lines, horrible shocks, horrible suspension, ugly rims, and mismatched bald tires. It's now ~240k on the clock, lifted, locked in the front, 4wd, AX-15 manual, and I just can't kill it. I've driven it to Pennsylvania and back twice with 3/4 ton of jeep parts in the back, it got deathwobble so bad it broke a motor mount off and limped home with 50 feet of rope holding the motor in, and most recently during hurricane Irene I drove it from central Massachusetts to NYC and used it to haul 200 gallons of diesel fuel to my company's backup generator so our datacenter would not lose power if ConEd shut the city off. My boss officially is not allowed to make fun of my crappy truck anymore as a result 
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Aug 31, 2011 06:09
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Kibblesnbits posted:I spent last summer refinishing a barn. The owner decided to paint it the classic dark red. So I got down to priming it. I mixed a bit of the final red in with the white primer to tint it. Painted the barn, and it dried hot pink. So bright that you couldn't really look at it on sunny days. The owner decided he liked the idea of owning a local landmark and had me match the hot pink for the top coat. Astronauts can probably see that loving thing from space. The triple decker apartment building two houses toward the street from my place is hot pink. It does make for good directions, all I have to do is say "when you see the huge pink cube on the right you are getting very close", it even works as a good landmark for looking at my house from a plane while landing at the municipal airport a mile away.
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Sep 3, 2011 16:26
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ornery owl posted:XJ owners don't have time to wave, we usually need to get to the parts store before it closes. or we're holding onto the wheel for dear life. loving deathwobble... I will wave for any obviously-wheeled jeep (i.e. no lo-pro street tires and bling rims that belong on a donk, a lift and some dirt/scratches/dents go a long way) and any fairly rare jeep (FSJs, MJs, CJs, mil surplus like deuces and 5-tons but I barely ever see another of those around) - stock XJs, ZJs, YJs, TJs, WJs, JKs etc get no love and don't even mention KJs, KKs, and those MK abominations 
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Sep 3, 2011 17:43
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tonedef131 posted:Where did you get your AX-15? My 87 MJ has the Peugot tranny that feels like it's about to poo poo the bed. Last time I changed the fluid it looked like chocolate milk and smelled like someone shoved a corpse in there. I think the only gear with any syncros left is 4th. I'm thinking I should start looking for one so I can dive right into it when it finally chokes. I traded an old AW-4 and the parts to install it to another guy whose girlfriend was 3-pedal retarded and wanted to drive his jeep. It came out of a 95 XJ. Honestly though, you can pull one out of any 6cyl standard XJ at the junkyard that doesn't have a pukegoat, I believe 87 or 89 is when they started using the AX15 instead? I believe the flywheel and pilot bearing are the same but not sure. The best vehicles for donors are going to be 93 or 95 and later (I forget) XJs for the AX15 since it'll be an external slave model, and if you luck out and find an 00 or 01 XJ you can pull an NV3550 out of it which is even better. If you have 4wd and get the trans from a 91 or later XJ/MJ you'll want to swap the input gear from a 91 through 94.0 NP231 into your NP231, or equivalently, bolt in any 91-95 NP231, since these have the newer 23 spline input gear needed to match the newer trans. I *think* I got all the year splits right, could be wrong. The RENIX fans over on NAXJA probably know more. EDIT: there is also something different about the trans crossmember and mount between pukegoat and AX15. Grab the trans crossmember and mount/exhaust bracket whojingy when you pull the trans out of the donor. Might also have to swap to a different clutch master since internal and external slaves have different fluid flow requirements iirc.
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Sep 4, 2011 00:22
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commissargribb posted:I wave everywhere. When the doors are off I sometimes wave out the side. When the top is off I wave over the windshield. When I'm driving the M54A2 topless (the truck, not me) you wouldn't believe how many hot chicks wave. I was shocked, I figured it would scare em all off and it did exactly the opposite. For reference:  It's got something loose in the steering and gets deathwobble at ~20mph if I hit the wrong bump. The front tires come off the ground and it rips chunks out of the side lugs 
kastein fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Sep 5, 2011 |
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Sep 5, 2011 02:43
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piss boner posted:My Chevy 1500 did that, my upper and lower ball joints were shot. Did them and the pitman arm & the idler arm and no more problems. Might just be the idler and/or pitman in your case though. pitman arm is fine, so are the TREs on the linkage from that to the idler arm on the frame and the TREs on the linkage from the idler arm to the driver side steering knuckle. I'm reasonably certain it's because the 5/8" rivets holding the steering box bracket to the frame are slightly stretched and my front tires were badly scalloped (tread down to 0 on the outside, still about 3/4" deep on the inside) and somehow one of the monkeys at the govliquidation lot managed to bend the 2" solid tie rod when they unloaded it... just haven't found time to fix it yet. I really hope I don't have to change the kingpins in this beast, because the tire/wheel weigh about 300-350lbs, the brake drum is over 100, and the knuckle is at least 100... and I nearly broke my 3 ton hydro jack last time I changed a tire on it.
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Sep 5, 2011 17:57
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Dismount posted:So a buddy of mine considers himself to be a part of the Jeep Community now. Today he purchased an XK. Francis Baconator posted:So I checked out that 1990 Cherokee today. The tires are in surprisingly decent condition and have about 50-60% left, which is more than I expected. It started okay and had decent belts. Best part? No rust or Bondo, not to mention a pretty good condition interior. Apparently, the seller's dad will replace the bad O-ring on the fuel rail. Cool, one less thing I have to do. Ceiling console is pretty simple, I have most of the wire color codes memorized and I think I have some spare parts for that year. Do the hoses and flush... replace the thermostat with a Stant 195 degree. Make sure you put the bleed hole with the loose rivet at the top, have fun bleeding the cooling system on a '90, they're the old closed system. Might want to replace the overflow tank (they crack sometimes and you will have issues if it does) and there is a Volvo radiator cap that fits nicely. If/when you have to replace the radiator, might want to look into converting to the 91 and later open cooling system. Oil? it's a hybrid vehicle, it runs on gas and motor oil  AC condenser - have fun with that, the old systems (94.0 down, iirc) run R12, can try Freeze-12 if you can't find R12. Steering wheel is easy to fix yourself, that XJ is old enough it doesn't even have a clockspring to worry about either. All you need is a 15mm (iirc) socket+ratchet and a pipe wrench. Toe-in is pretty easy to set too, especially if you upgrade to the tie rod off a V8-equipped ZJ which is much stronger.
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Sep 12, 2011 13:52
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I will say this... I have heard extremely good things about the motor (at least the 5.7.) I've heard there are some oiling issues on the 4.7 in the WJ, not sure if they also show up in the XK? A few of my friends have had to replace them. Not sure how accurate this info is... look into the oiling issues yourself and make your own mind up on it if the one you're looking at has a 4.7.
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Sep 12, 2011 21:28
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jonathan posted:A friend's Cherokee overlander turbodiesel (2008 ?) worked well in the rocks. The traction control setup it has basically worked like fully locked diffs. grand cherokee or the one they call the liberty stateside? I'm guessing grand cherokee but I didn't know they ever made them with a TD for the non domestic market...
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Sep 13, 2011 18:48
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I'd wave if it had dirt on it...  PS, I'm not so sure about the IRO longarm setup. I just can't stand that adjustable caster thinger they have on the upper control arm mount.
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Sep 14, 2011 05:14
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adorai posted:I need to replace the shocks on my jeep soon, I assume it's probably worth my time to do a small 2" lift at the same time. Is this a driveway job for a non-mechanic? depends, what model jeep? I can do a front 2" lift in like half an hour on an XJ/MJ/TJ/ZJ as noted, but rear leaf springs can really suck, especially on something like a rusty XJ. It took me four hours per side for the leafs and the weld-nuts in the frame rail didn't even break loose on me, the bolts just took forever to unscrew since they were very rusty. If you decide not to bother (which I would) it takes like 15 minutes per side to do new shocks on the front of most jeeps, since you can (worst case, rounded off or rusty) dremel all the bolts and throw the new ones in. Rears on an XJ can be a pain in the rear end, but I'm not even sure you have one.
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Sep 18, 2011 00:45
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adorai posted:It's a TJ. I think i'll just start PB Blasting the nuts daily for a week or so in advance. oh, yeah, fast and easy. You can swap coils with a spade and a 36" crowbar if you feel like it
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Sep 18, 2011 02:10
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InitialDave posted:Hands up everyone who's twatted themselves in the face doing this. I haven't... yet. I was actually a lot more afraid of the springs the time I did it with a set of "death sticks" (strut compressing screws) than the times I've done it with a shovel and a crowbar. Those compressors scare the hell out of me.
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Sep 18, 2011 18:29
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SlimManFat posted:http://www.nlclassifieds.com/classifieds/Automotive/SUV/Jeep/610347 the trans in those is dogshit (I just hate chrysler autos, honestly, but never had good luck with them) but otherwise they're pretty solid. Balljoints are like a 1 hour per side job, max, with decent tools and some skill. The brake line to the rear wheels (if it's rusty) can be a real bear to get to where it goes under the steering shaft and exhaust manifolds, but it has a nifty little heat shield over it that you can slide back to expose clean tubing, flare and use a union then slide the shield back down.
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Sep 21, 2011 01:29
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commissargribb posted:Today's weather was perfect so it had to be a top/doors off day. I don't get it. my 98 XJ gets 15mpg (measured fillup to fillup, using odometer) even though cylinders 3 and 4 are duds, it chugs like hell, has no torque, no acceleration, nothing that could be mistaken in any way as "having balls", the exhaust smells of gas, it probably has a melted/plugged cat and possibly burned valves or a wiped cam. Most of the time I have it at AT LEAST 3/4 throttle just to keep it moving. Yet it still gets 15mpg  when I went to run the numbers I actually double checked, expecting it to be about half that.I'm going to fix it one of these days, I mostly just use it to get places about once a week when I absolutely have to.
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Sep 26, 2011 23:00
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I'll stop for drat near any jeep I see on the side of the road. Hell, I have given away spare parts that I happened to have with me, and ended up selling my spare to someone a while ago. Stopped for a guy on i93 north with a completely blown tire and no spare, no jack, no lug wrench, was on my way to go help a friend install a new dana 30 in his XJ so I had plenty of tools and spare parts with me. I only asked for 20 (enough cash to buy another spare at the junkyard, basically) but he refused to give me anything less than 40.
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Oct 2, 2011 01:31
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Deathwobble... my old friend... I'm so glad I haven't gotten it in a while. Last time I got it in my MJ, it wobbled so hard it shook coins out of the cupholders, slid the motor mounts across the frame (the bolts were properly torqued, I only noticed this because the washers scraped paint off the frame where they slid)... and broke the passenger side motor mount bracket off the engine block  fortunately I knew a guy selling a 4.0 for $160 so I threw it in, along with my AX15 swap, lift, tires, front locker, 4x4 conversion, new rear axle, and rear disc brakes. It was a completely different truck by the time it drove again.That's got to be the cleanest 4.0L rebuild I've ever seen. I just discovered the head gasket in my 98 XJ is blown (between cylinders 3 and 4, near as I can tell) so I will probably be pulling the motor, replacing it with my spare, and doing a full rebuild while it's out. 150/150/30/30/150/150 PSI compression, and I could hear air rushing out of cyl 3 while testing cyl 4 and vice versa. Fortunately oil pressure is fine and the oil looks clean, no excess cooling system pressurization either so I think it was a good clean break from the #3 bore to the #4. No idea why though, this is actually the only 4.0L I've never beaten on, the others have all run without oil, without coolant, or at redline for hours on end without a single complaint and of course the one I babied is the one that blows on me.
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Oct 4, 2011 09:12
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I love me a good J-truck... it would look better with different wheels though. And the best J-truck EVER is one with a J2000 Gladiator grille on it. I would trade my left nut for one in good shape.
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Oct 5, 2011 23:45
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Philip J Fry posted:Buddy of mine overseas just picked this up for a project. Decommissioned from NATO in Sweden, 1981 with 33k miles. Can't remember what it was used for. It's loving perfect the way it is! Well, maybe if it had a Gladiator grill on it 
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Oct 6, 2011 06:28
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Sharks Below posted:I love those racks! Want. Sounds like rear main seal or valve cover. Might even be distributor or OFA gasket... but not as likely. Where does the motor seem to be greasiest?
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Oct 6, 2011 23:25
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OFA, distributor gasket, and valve cover gaskets are easy, usually. Less than 2 hours. All doable with hand tools in a parking lot, driveway, or garage... A rear main seal on the other hand is a pain in the rear end. It's still possible but nowhere near as fun. My bet is that he thinks it's this. Valve cover gasket and RMS are indeed the most likely problems, I generally try a valve cover gasket first and if that doesn't solve it, do the RMS. E: looking back at the thread you have a JK. Sorry, I'm not too familiar with those and most of what I said is wrong. I automatically assumed you had some sort of a Jeep with a 2.5 or 4.0L inline motor Looking at rockauto it appears to be a one-piece rear main seal, which means the transmission must be removed to replace it.
kastein fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Oct 7, 2011 |
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Oct 7, 2011 00:00
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manuals are better  I started on autos and was OK with them till I got my first manual trans jeep (the M54A2), and have been slowly converting the rest of the fleet to M/T since then.Checked into things and the rear main seal on a 3.8L V6 is really a pain in the rear end, transmission has to come out. Fight for that to be under warranty, you said it only had a few tens of thousands of km on it right? I know here in the states we usually get 100k powertrain warranties these days, there is no reason a rear main seal should start leaking in anything under that. Doesn't look like there even IS an OFA (oil filter adapter) for the V6, it's distributorless ignition so no distributor gasket, leaving valve cover gaskets (probably easy), rear main seal (pain in the rear end), oil pan gasket (probably annoying) or possibly some sort of an oil gallery plug in the back of the block, but I doubt that.
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Oct 7, 2011 00:12
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I never used to feel funny driving an auto... now I nearly give myself whiplash the first stop I make in most automatic vehicles because I subconsciously hit the clutch... I mean the left end of the brake pedal. I only have two of my original 4 automatic jeeps left... scrapped one after grenading the trans, converted one to manual, another is sitting waiting for me to find a cheap V8/manual trans donor truck for a swap, and the last is my prototyping rig for the manumatic controllers I've been slowly working on, so it has to stay automatic at least until I finish designing and testing it. (I'm not rich... I just buy lots of basket case projects for very cheap)
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Oct 7, 2011 00:19
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commissargribb posted:The girlfriend won't let me have more than 2 jeeps- which is why the next one is going to be a landcruiser or a sami no girlfriend and I own my house, no HOA, out in the woods in a small western mass town, I can do whatever the gently caress I want 
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Oct 7, 2011 05:18
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That's somewhat of a myth, which gets perpetuated because people who have heard it only change the fluid when the trans starts acting up... and then it dies! Drain and flush if you feel like it, it's supposed to be done every 30k miles in that trans I believe. Should be fine with anything meeting Dextron/Mercon specs (and some say ATF+4, but that's a religious debate I won't get into), though I usually stick with a high mileage fluid for peace of mind.
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Oct 7, 2011 14:08
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how many miles? I'd get the throwout bearing and pilot bearing changed. I wouldn't touch the RMS unless it's actually leaking.
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Oct 7, 2011 17:05
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jonathan posted:Took this pic the other day. It's funny how a 33" tire looks like a hearty tire on a jeep, until you put it next to your 47" tires rollin' on 20's. what do you have? I know an M35A2 weighs in at like 13k and my M54A2 weighs in at around 19k and change... I haven't decided whether I should spend the cash and pick up a set of 395s or not. real big jeeps  the day I drove it to work! parked at the house with a stock jeep cherokee for scale  (when I went to buy some spare 11.00x20 NDTs on rims, I discovered that two of them will fit in the back of said stock XJ, with the seats folded down and the jeep riding on its bumpstops the whole way home)
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Oct 7, 2011 23:02
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mod sassinator posted:God drat how much do those tires weigh, like 100lbs each? if only... I believe my 11.00x20s mounted on steel two part rims are pushing 300. Sure felt like it when I hauled the spare up into the truck bed with a tow strap.
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Oct 8, 2011 15:35
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jonathan posted:I've often wondered what would be involved in a ctis setup for a vehicle that didn't come with it originally ? I don't understand exactly how the mechanism works. What's required beyond an onboard air system ? Generally the air comes in via a special bored lug nut and some air passages and o-ring seals in the hub assembly, I believe. It would be pretty difficult to add. They also gently caress with your wheel balance pretty badly unless you handle things just right, I'm not sure I'd do it. Geared Hub - not sure, but I can pick up 395/85R20 Michelin XMLs or XZLs for $160 each or $600 for 4 on patracy's web store - forget the name, he advertises on both steelsoldiers and pirate though. I can't quite pull the trigger on them though, I am not entirely sure what direction I'm going in with the truck yet.
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Oct 8, 2011 21:55
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Sponge! posted:Flee! You're not infected yet. You can yet still escape the curse of AI. oh I'm pretty sure I am... I own 4 jeeps and used to own 5, 3 of my friends have their parts jeeps sitting in my yard too so they don't get dumped/divorced/kicked out by their parents... I'm infected alright. I just don't know how I feel about spending about 900 on tires (and god knows how much on shipping) plus another 300 on rims for a vehicle that I haven't even put a new head gasket in yet, nor registered.
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Oct 9, 2011 04:38
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commissargribb posted:I would love to see it with a fresh coat of paint and bows/soft top for the bed. it is going to get that eventually, first I have to finish building the loading ramps for it (I bought it to haul my wheeling jeep around so I don't have to worry about breaking and finding a way to drive it home) and build a garage or tent big enough to put it in while I paint it though. One of these days... e: I still haven't seen blockade runner
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Oct 9, 2011 22:40
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EightBit posted:What year? The coil rail on my 2000 is a bit of a pain to get out of the way. Everything after that is easy sailing though, definitely prefer that to some lovely GM V8, plugs inches from the firewall A guy I know is actually working on eliminating the coil rail setup... would have been nice if they had used individual COP modules for each plug, but the huge rail is kinda stupid. I can't find his post on the subject, but essentially, he found a 6-cyl wasted-spark coil module from another Chrysler vehicle with the same charge time, turns ratio, primary resistance, etc and built a cable adapter to make the jeep's wiring harness plug into it, then found spark plug wires that were the right length to connect it to the I6. So far he says it's working great.
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Oct 9, 2011 23:41
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Only way you can gently caress up an oil change on a 4.0 is by breaking the oil pressure sender off (some years have it parallel with the drat filter, and in the way...) - though what angle the filter is at depends on the vehicle it's in and the year. I've seen em direct mounted to the side of the motor, angled back (92/93ish and up XJs), angled up (91/92ish and down XJs/MJs) and a few others besides. Usually I use Fram filters (yes, I know, they suck) simply because they have that convenient rubber grip on the end. Haven't had to use a wrench yet.
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Oct 10, 2011 05:46
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EightBit: found it. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1066869 He used an '02 Viper coil pack, V8 wire kit that he cut to length, and some custom cabling / mounting brackets. Apparently a Viper coil pack is ~60 bucks, since the stock coil rail is ~85 I'd probably do the swap as soon as the stock one dies, or as soon as the stock 0331 cylinder head cracks between 3 and 4 and gets replaced with an 0630 head (without the mounting holes for the coil rail.)
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Oct 10, 2011 07:07
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Shouldn't be vacuum ports on a 4.0L head... valve cover or intake manifold perhaps?
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Oct 11, 2011 04:22
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EightBit posted:No, it was definitely some kind of tap into the intake right by the number 6 cylinder. May have been put in by the owner of the vehicle this head came from, I don't know how it got there. I found a bolt that threaded in and put some thread locker on it. Sounds like the coolant temperature sensor used on 87 through 96 (and some 97, I think?) vehicles for the temp gauge. After that they eliminated it and used the coolant temp sensor that feeds the ECU to run the gauge. I decided to order the tires... 1300 bucks including shipping, but that's for 6. I'm gonna be pretty shagged out after mounting those up for sure.
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Oct 11, 2011 05:58
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jonathan posted:MORE THAN YOU CAN AFFORD PAL. TRAIL RATED. I've taken my XJ on 33s and 3.5" of lift, open diffs, up trails that an XJ on Q78s, locked front and rear, 5" of lift couldn't make it up Undercarriage armor will go a long, long way.
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Oct 14, 2011 05:24
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guess what arrived today? (15" XJ rim for scale)
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Oct 14, 2011 20:53
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Not the only thing... near about blew my back unloading them! 235lbs apiece without rims. I'm keeping one of the stock 11.00x20 (42") tires as a donut spare. Should be fine, putting 46s on this is like putting 31s on a cherokee/grand cherokee/wrangler.
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Oct 15, 2011 04:00
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Doccers posted:Very nice, what tread pattern is that? It doesn't look like the ZXL but it kinda does... XMLs... I wanted XZLs but couldn't find them in stock anywhere. Even used, that's $975 in tires (for 6.) Only reason it took me so long to decide to go for it. New they're nearly $800 *each* so I got off easy. 20 cents on the dollar for a tire with 90+% treadlife left isn't too bad. Steiler Drep - how hard can it be to swap a diesel into a carbed vehicle with a wide open engine compartment? I've seen plenty of 4bt and 6bt swaps into wranglers happen, easier since apparently they come in some delivery trucks with a common new venture 5-speed behind them. So you can patch together the required front-end parts off the trans from the diesel and the back-end parts off a 4wd version from a dodge fullsize pickup and voila, diesel engine with a transfer case compatible MT hanging off it.
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Oct 15, 2011 17:02
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