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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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I've seen mention of watching Jeep forums to buy a jeep ... which ones in particular are good? Any other good sources for jeeps? I'm looking for a two or four door XJ, probably '96+? (various googles show that power was bumped in that year, but I'm not really sure). Definitely 4.0L, 4x4, auto preferable. Budget is about $5k.

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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Thanks! That helps. Are there any particular models that indicate the car isn't 4x4? I've noticed a lot of people won't mention it in their ads, so anything I can do to narrow down which ones I respond to makes it easier on me.

Basically: Is the Sport model 4x2 only?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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I'm hoping being from Southern California, that *might* not be too much of an issue, but I'll keep an eye out. Thanks for the info, guys! Hopefully I'll be an owner in short order

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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BoostCreep posted:

I've been keeping an eye on Craigslist for XJs lately and they are crazy cheap. You can find great examples for way under 5k now. Let me know if you want a tire kicking buddy. I owe you for helping with my Bricklin.
i love that idea. Plus we need to work on the bricklin again! I got the mustang back together - your suggestion on website helped a lot.

Oh, and I wanted to add:

BrokenKnucklez posted:

kinda piggish on gas.
Current car gets 10mpg. Not an issue

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Jul 19, 2013

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Found a '00 XJ Sport (4.0, 4x4, auto), lifted, with 31" tires, looks to be in good shape locally, going to check it out friday morning. Hoping it's not gone by then. It looks about perfect - even had the engine replaced with an '05, so no worries about the head crack issue.

One question: Were Cherokees sold as 49/50 state legal in '00? I only ask because it has AZ plates on it, and that's a potential problem. They DID say they have smog already done, which they shouldn't have been able to do on a non-50 state legal car, but ... it's still got me worried.

Anyway, what all do I need to look for? I know rust, especially on the floor plan.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Killer. That helps ... I'd seen that the TUPY thing was put on the later engines, but I didn't know if it was possible to see it without valve covers off. I'll bring a flashlight

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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What tools do you guys keep in your jeep, especially when wheeling?

I'm working on setting up a toolbox to hopefully be able to fix (almost) anything, and I'm curious what all I'd need to keep in it.

So far, I'm planning:

- 1/2" sockets, Metric, I'm thinking 8mm - 21mm? (The biggest bolt I know of so far is the lugnut at 19mm, but I haven't been all over the truck yet)
- 1/2" breaker bar ( http://www.harborfreight.com/12-dri...-bar-67933.html )
- 1/2" ratchet (Craftsman, probably?)
- 3/8" sockets, metric, probably 6-16mm? (I'm also not sure what the smallest bolt on the truck is, yet)
- 3/8" ratchet
- metric combo wrenches (I have this Craftsman set, but may need to add a few more)
- channel locks (brand?)
- needle nose / flat nose pliers
- ratcheting screwdriver with philips, flat, and torx (?)

What else do I need? And what's a decent box to keep stuff like this in?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Lots of great info, thank you, guys.

For reference, I've got a '00 XJ, of which I need to post pics soon. First the butt rear end ugly decals have to come off the sides (probably this weekend).

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Are there any better stereos like that? Ideally, I'm looking for (multiple mono/stereo) AUX in, USB, and (maybe) an SD card. And I'm willing to spend more than $30 to get a good one.

Basically, I want to have my ipod plugged in while driving, have the option to switch to a USB stick, and also have a ham radio (two mono 1/8" outputs) plugged in. If necessary, I can unplug the iPod to plug in the ham, but I'd like to be able to leave both plugged in. Also, I can adapt the mono outputs to stereo, so it really doesn't matter if it has two monos and a stereo or two stereos. I'd prefer at least one be on the back of the unit.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Look out for body rust, and all the normal stuff - leaks, functionality of components, etc.

kastein posted:

Sport generally is 4x4. If you get a frontal shot from the CL listing, just look for the differential hanging down on the driver side in the picture, that means it's at least partially 4x4. Make sure the transfer case and front driveshaft are there, a friend of mine got scammed on one that'd had a front axle put in, and a transfer case shifter, but no transfer case or front driveshaft...

NAXJA is a good spot to look for XJs/MJs for sale as well.

99 doesn't have the 0331 head issue, except maybe some very very late 99s, and I've never seen one with it. Just people claiming it might. So I'd bet against that, but check them for the casting number anyways just in case.

99 is the best OBD2 new body style year, 95 is the best OBD1 old body style year.

I asked the same basic question a week or so ago, this was the clearcut answer.

Make sure to shift it into 4H and 4L to make sure it will

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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I'm going to put an auto-locker in the front of my XJ, and I'm wondering if anyone has any opinions on Spartan vs LockRight. They're both pretty cheap, but the LR is a bit cheaper - any real difference between them?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Just ordered a Lock-Right for the front end of my XJ ... I keep telling myself it's not a project car.


...


It's a project car, isn't it?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Had a moment of panic last week when I started leaking (more) oil (than usual). Uncle and I spent labor day working on it, replaced the Valve Cover gasket, front driveshaft, all U-joints forward of the TC, the passenger side hub, and the sway bar bushings, and put a LockRite in.

We also broke three bolts (how the gently caress did an AZ car get so much rust?), drove the car in 2WD by removing the front axle shafts (DO NOT EVER DO THIS), and got towed when the front passenger hub fell off the car because it's held in by the axle nut.

On the upside, it now drives amazingly better, and doesn't appear to leak at all.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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What headlight upgrades are the best? I'm generally thinking a wiring loom upgrade, H4 housings, and some decent bulbs, but I'm pretty apprehensive about the products I'm seeing out there. A couple of jeep forums recommend this harness: http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004H...g/dp/B001P29X4G

Which has a couple bad reviews, but doesn't seem totally scary. I'm willing to spend more if the quality is worth it.

I'm not finding anything in terms of decent brand name housings, and I'll probably just throw sylvania bulbs in unless someone has a better idea.

2000 XJ, for what it's worth.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Philip J Fry posted:

Cibie, Hella, IPF and AutoPal housings are all fine with the Putco harness. I put mine in two years ago with Hella housings and it's performed great. I think some batches had bad Chinese relays or something, but I haven't heard too many complaints considering how many people have ordered that thing and installed it. You'll have to pull your factory fog light relay, otherwise you can't toggle from high to low beams after you've flicked them to high; you have to kill all the lights and then start at low again.
Killer - ordered a set. Is the fog light relay thing an issue if I didn't have factory fogs?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Veeb0rg posted:

If you didn't have factory fogs, you'll be fine. I have Autopal h4 Ecode housings and the putco harness. No complaints, it was probably one of the best "bang for the buck" upgrade I've done to my jeep. Just stay away from the "crystal" h4 headlights, they're pure junk and just scatter light everywhere.
Yeah, I sprung for the Hellas because I'd rather have them work really well. Lighting is important to me.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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kastein posted:

There are more aftermarket upgrades for the NP231 (I forget whether that's command-trac or selec-trac, but it's the one without fulltime 4x4) but I doubt that'll become an issue in a liberty. It's only really something you should consider if you intend to lift it and/or go 4 wheeling with it.
Command-Trac is part time 4WD, Selec-Trac is full-or-part-time 4WD.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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So my Jeep has a 3.5" lovely block lift, and I want to do a proper lift. I like the size of the lift, though. Who makes a good quality 3.5" lift for the XJ? Comfort, quality, and articulation are important, cost isn't really an issue.

Edit: And while we're at it, what sway bar disconnects are good?

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Sep 16, 2013

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Interesting. This looks like what I'd want. Is that pricing about right or is it available cheaper if I shop around?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Dumb question:

I've got a 2000 Cherokee with a Dana 30 front, and a LockRite locker in it. When I drive it in 2WD, there's a pretty definite throttle related clacking noise - like a rattle, but heavier. There's a pretty noticeable vibration from the front right corner with it. It happens starting from a dead stop, goes away relatively quickly (20-30ft traveled, I'd estimate), and also happens relatively constantly when going around right turns (but not left turns). Letting off of the throttle stops it immediately. Is this just the locker, or is there something else that could cause this?

We've checked and there's no obvious play in any of the front end hardware, so I'm kind of at a loss if it isn't the locker.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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mod sassinator posted:

How are the wheel bearings? I'd jack up each wheel and jiggle them around forcefully to see if there's any play. Also spin them and if the bearing is bad enough you'll hear it for sure.
Took me a while to have time to crawl under it. Ok, so the wheel bearings are good - no noise, resistance, vibration, or play. When I turn the right front wheel slowly, I get the clack clack clack of the LockRite - which I expect. If I grab the wheel and turn it forcefully (basically throw it), it gets a lot louder. I think that's what the noise is (it sounds the same), but I don't know if I need to worry.

I also got the hop/chirp doing a full lock left (U turn) tonight - not the same noise, but I thought it was interesting.

I'm thinking that it IS the locker, and that it's different right / left because of the unequal shaft lengths - the longer shaft on the right puts more force on it. Does this sound right?

I'm thinking I'm going to throw my GoPro under the car tomorrow and get some video / record the noise, so I'll post that when I get it done.

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Oct 3, 2013

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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kastein posted:

There are no vertical bolts on the frame in that area except for the sway bar mount bolts iirc but it is still something to check.

Check the fluid level in the front diff (add more till it comes out the fill plug) because auto lockers get very loud when they are low on fluid. Also check the ujoints at the steering knuckles, those being seized or worn out could easily cause the lurching/hopping/squeaking when turning sharply.
U Joints are replaced, fluid is good. Going to look for that steering box and see if there isn't something there - I'm kind of running out of ideas

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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I still see them in junkyards all the time - I can't imagine they're hard to get. If you have trouble, let me know, I'll be at a junkyard next weekend and would be willing to ship one. (I can't imagine this would be a fast enough solution, but there it is...)

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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How are your tires? I was having gnarly death wobbles and it ended up being unevenly worn tires. Rotate your tires and see if it continues or changes.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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I think that's a "hahahahahahahaha" on that scale.

Has anyone here done the 8.8 rear swap on an XJ? I've got a '00 XJ (4.0; 4x4; automagic) and it's on the short list of necessities. I'm wondering what the major hurdles that will inevitably crop up are, and what supporting equipment I need to buy.

Related question, what's a good slip yoke eliminator? I think we're going to do them at the same time so that we can (maybe) sort out the driveshaft once, rather than twice.

We've got a '97 explorer with rear discs that I'll (probably) be able to grab the rear end out of for not much, we'll likely be rebuilding the diff (fresh clutches, basically), and will be changing the front Dana 30 to 3.73s to match. And hopefully not long after, 33s!

Edit with what I found so far:

This site says the parking brake cables are a huge pain in the rear end, and it's worth buying the aftermarket ones for this swap. Also, brake proportioning: I have no loving idea. And the parking brake is still a drum? poo poo, guess I need a Mico.

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Nov 12, 2013

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Audiologic posted:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/...rite-up-530202/

Hardest part looks to be the spring perches that you have to weld on.

What axle do you have right now? If it's the newer 29 spline C8.25 I wouldn't bother doing the swap unless you REALLY want discs and REALLY want bigger tires.
It is the corporate 8.25, but I honestly think it needs discs. The brakes seem rather inadequate in serious wheeling. And I'm definitely going to 33s. I'd go to 35s if it didn't mean the front diff would eat itself.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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kastein posted:

Don't waste your time on an 8.8 unless you're going 4.10s, 3.73s is barely a change. You can put $80-100 in junkyard ZJ rear discs onto an 8.25 in a couple hours and Crown Automotive makes an e-brake cable kit that makes the cables bolt-on.

Also, you may just need to rebuild the rear drums. If you don't mind buying all new hardware (you're in the southwest right? you may not even need to) XJ rear drums are really, really simple. I previously poo poo on them a lot because I'd never had an easy time working on them... because every vehicle I'd had them on was a giant ball of rust. I can lock up my rear drums doing 20 on dirt just by yanking the e-brake cable with them properly maintained and adjusted, I haven't tried it on pavement yet because I don't want to flat spot my tires.

Don't get me wrong, the 8.8 swap is awesome, but going from a 29 spline 8.25 to an 8.8 is barely an upgrade. The shafts are somewhat bigger, but you can run 33s on a 29 spline 8.25 all day with it stock, even with an LSD or locker, and I'd put 35s on one without much concern if I had a full case locker and alloy shafts in it.

Where the 8.8 really shines is if you need to regear to 4.10:1, add discs, and have a d35 in the back. It makes good financial sense then.
Good info, thank you. The funny thing is, we were going to leave it 3.73 because my uncle doesn't want to deal with regearing two axles (if we did 3.73 we'd only have to do the front) - but I can't imagine redoing front and rear gears would be harder than an axle swap.

If we did just do the brake swap, I'd still want to regear for 33s, and in that case, doing both axles anyway, I'd go 4.10s.

I do want discs in the rear - I understand drums can lock up the tires, but they don't hold very well on hills (esp with the e-brake), and they get really crappy if they get wet. (And yes, I'm from the southwest, and supposedly the XJ is too (AZ), but it's got a loooooooot of rust on it.)

Edit: Oh, other question. I want some kind of good diff in the back (ie, not open), and I'm leaning toward a selectable locker. What's good for the 8.25"? Looking around, it looks like there may not be any.

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Nov 12, 2013

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Makes a lot of sense, actually. I'm not sure how that would happen, but it does seem like a simple explanation.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Veeb0rg posted:

You might want to check with the local junkyards and see if you can't find an 8.8 with 4.10's and then sell your 3.73 axle to cover the cost.
Yeah, it looks like they were available. The upside is if I'm doing that, I could probably grab an eaton e-locker at the same time, and thus only need to find a 4.10 axle, not a 4.10 LSD axle.

I like the idea of keeping the 8.25, because it seems like less work / maybe cheaper, but I think the lack of selectable lockers would bother me.

Edit: It looks like with the 8.8, if I can find an explorer with axle code F7, K6, or R7, I can get an axle with 4.10s and an LSD. Which might (should) be cheaper than an Eaton. I'm not sure which way to go on that - I think I'd end up wanting the selectable, but I don't know for sure that an LSD isn't good enough.

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Nov 12, 2013

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Yeah, I've already got the mild D30 w/ locker in the front, and on our last trip, it became apparent that I need at least an LSD in the back. Ideally, I'd like an ECTED (selectable limited / locked), but they have gotten pretty bad reliability reviews, so I suspect I'll go with the LSD, and if it ends up really bothering me, I'll change it later.

I'm a little worried about going with 3.73s, but it shouldn't be an absolute dog, and the labor is free and largely making the decisions there, so ... I think it's ok

So:

- find an 8.8 with an LSD. 4.10s if I can, 3.73s if not.
- get matching gears for front.
- rebuild LSD.
- weld axle tubes to housing
- replace seals & bearings
- SYE (Rubicon Express?)
- driveshaft (I don't know the brand on this, my uncle has a brand he likes that he uses on his truck, so I'll probably be going with that)
- mounts
- e brake cables
- proportioning valve

Am I missing anything big?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Oh, that's handy - if it broke on the trail, swap it over. Awesome.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Astonishing Wang posted:

I have 33's and 3.73s with a manual transmission and it's not bad. I have to stay in 4th when there's any incline on the highway. It is one reason I stuck with 33's and didn't go bigger though. I can't imagine it being as manageable with larger tires.

e: Also, Duratracs have a bit of a whine to them at speed - it's my first tire with any kind of lumpy rubber on it so I wasn't sure what to expect. It's not bad.
Cool, that sounds acceptable. I've got an auto, so I should be a little better off in that regard (though probably not much different), and I don't plan on ever going to 35's. I like the idea of 35's, but being as my front diff is made of hope and dreams, it won't be happening.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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goobernoodles posted:

In response to my tire suggestion request a few pages back...

What's the usual width tire people go with on stock 15" XJ wheels? 235? Looks like Duratracs are a little spendy ($161) for my taste. That's about the cost I paid for my Volvo's summer tires (Michelin Pilot Super Sports). Is there a decent cheaper option for say... under ~$450 a set? I assume these suck?

I'm have no plans to modify the jeep. It's pretty much an around town beater that smells like my dog's rear end in a top hat.

Stock was 225/75-15, you could probably put 235/70 on without much issue.

There's a multitude of tires on tirerack in the 225 size for well under $450 / set - I'd, honestly, just pick whichever ones you like that have decent reviews on there.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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jonathan posted:

I don't see the point in looking for an LSD diff. I'd rather have an open diff so I can install a lunch box locker in it.

LSD is useless on anything but pavement. If you're open and in a situation where you need a locker, one foot on the gas and one on the brake. Works 10x better than an LSD.
Truthfully, this is what I was thinking too, but I don't really want a lunchbox in the rear. I'd rather have a selectable so it can be completely open (or, as mentioned, LSD) on the street, and fully locked offroad.

I have a front locker, which gives me the clacking / chirping in turns fun already with it unpowered on the street (ie, in 2WD). If the rear was always locked, I think it would be ... more irritating. Right?

Edit: And truthfully, cost isn't really an issue. It's not NO issue, but I'm perfectly willing to spend $900 on an ECTED if it will give me what I want and not decrease reliability. So an LSD or lunchbox locker as a cheaper option isn't attractive BECAUSE of cost, though if it will do most of what I need (ie, work acceptably offroad) and not offer any real downside, it would be.

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Nov 13, 2013

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Ok, so I'm trying to figure out Slip Yoke Eliminators.

I know I need to move to a CV driveshaft, and I'm planning to do this concurrently with my 8.8 swap. The part number for this that I've found online is the Rubicon Express RE1807, and it looks like you're supposed to run it with the Rubicon Express RE1898 driveshaft.

Is this correct?
Do I need other parts to complete this?
Is this the only driveshaft I can use this with? I know people here mentioned being able to use the stock FRONT driveshaft with this kit - is this possible?

The vehicle is a 2000 XJ, 4.0, 4x4, automatic. I believe it's an NP231 transfer case. It will by the time this is installed have a Ford 8.8 rear end, which is what I need to get the driveshaft matched up to.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Thank you! Any suggestions on who makes that type of SYE? My guesswork so far hasn't led me to one.

In thanks, here's a picture of the vehicle in question, in Moab:

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Went to the junkyard, found 4.10s for the front.

Progress!

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Sigh. Of course they won't fit.

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 08:41 on Nov 18, 2013

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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kastein posted:

Let me guess... a YJ axle, or high pinion gearset going into a low pinion housing/vise versa.

One of these is fixable (get the correct housing, would only rcommend if you got high pinion gears) but a YJ axle into an XJ is too much work to be worth it. Also you will need a differential carrier for 3.73 and up gear ratios to put 4.10s in an axle that was 3.55 or below, which can be grabbed from any ZJ with 3.73s (most v8s.)

... and a master gear install kit, new pinion oil baffle, inch pound dial torque wrench, foot pound torque wrench good to 250 foot pounds iirc, a good mic, a dial indicator, a deadblow mallet, a 3/16 punch, good gear marking paste, and preferably a set of setup bearings.
Some weird combination of the two - ring, pinion, carrier, out of what as best I can tell is a YJ high pinion front axle.

When you say get the correct housing - you mean like the pumpkin? I didn't think that was something you could replace without replacing the whole axle (or cutting and welding it in, but at that point, what's the difference, right?).

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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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kastein posted:

Ring/Pinion/Carrier from a high pinion axle SHOULD fit a high pinion XJ axle. You will still need the full setup kit, all the tools I mentioned, etc and either an entire day to learn how to do it yourself or ~1/2 day for a pro to do it, but they should fit. Why isn't it going together?
Yeah, that's the problem, though - my XJ has a LP axle. We didn't realize this when we were pulling the gears - we checked another cherokee at the yard, found it HP, and assumed mine was the same.

I do have a pro helping me with this, so I'm not worried about that part, but it sounds like the only realistic option at this point is to just find/buy some LP 4.10s. I don't think swapping the front axle is really justified, even if they are a little stronger/have a bit more clearance.

Thank you! I appreciate the info.

Edit: Maybe it's not a complete waste - I think I'd need a new carrier for 4.10s anyway, and I can't think of a reason that one wouldn't fit. $58 carrier, but still

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Nov 18, 2013

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