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Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004





Just bought this 94 Wrangler the other day and it runs and drives well but will need tires fairly soon. It has 33x12.5x15 tires now and I'm thinking about going to 31" tires so I can actually use all 5 gears and have a little better response elsewhere.

In a Facebook group I belong to, they were talking about P vs LT tires and that the P-rated tires ride better because of the weight of a Wrangler vs that of a pickup truck. I didn't buy a YJ for the ride quality but if it's on road 90% of the time and P-rated tires ride better then I might start looking at those this fall.

So is there truth to the construction differences of P and LT tires affecting ride or is this one of those internet propagated wive's tales?

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Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



IOwnCalculus posted:

(also holy hood glare batman)

Yeah, that was the first thing I saw that I decided I was removing when I purchased it last Tuesday. Probably coming off tomorrow.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



Rhyno posted:

Crossposting

Dude at C&C this morning






I love Comanches.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



Thinking about new wheels since mine are a bit rusty on the YJ I just picked up plus one has a slightly different offset.

How do the cheapo $39 Trail Master TM5 compare to similar wheels ( Bart D Trucker, Procomp 51)? Anybody had these long term?

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



I just bought a 94 Wrangler with a 2.5/5spd with 33s and while 5th is only usable for for flat stretches, it has no issues getting up to speed and it got 20.7mpg on the last tank. It's a third vehicle (or fifth counting the motorcycles) so it's driven for fun with the top off and next year it'll probably see some trail time. If it was an only vehicle and I had to drive on the interstate then it wouldn't be that great, but then again my daily driver from '99-'05 was a 90 Sentra with 95hp while my nice cars stayed out of the snow. Patience is key.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



Applebees Appetizer posted:



Just needs a frame! Runs great!

That's pretty much every TJ I went to look at $4500 or less. The TJs all looked good outside and were rotted out underneath. One guy told me "it has a little rust on the frame" which translated to "there is a 12-inch-long section under the passenger door that is missing all but the top inch of the frame".

The YJs, while older, all had solid frames and bodies in various stages of rot. I picked a little body work (which I enjoy) over frame work.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



Gingerbread House Music posted:

290/343/390/304/360/401 will all interchange. 390s/401s are all way more desirable though due to having a forged rotating assembly.

Depends on how you define interchange. You have to notch the top of the cylinders with big valves on a 290.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



Does anyone know off the top of their head if TJs have a plenum drain hose under the hood like YJs? A friend just bought an '01 and text me that his front floor was soaked after a rain and I'm trying to offer some ideas via text for him to look at. My YJ has been dry since I cleaned 24 years worth of crud out of my tube but I don't know if that's even a thing on the newer Jeeps.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



netwerk23 posted:

I was behind this guy yesterday on my drive home. I noticed what looks like a short linkage and a cable with a metal handle coming out the back, where the spare tire might be mounted? Any idea? A spare swaybar endlink? Rear wiper motor maybe?

Click for Full sized

I'm obviously not a Jeepophile.

If I had to guess, that bumper had a tire carrier at some point. This one has a similar linkage to the one in your picture.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



kastein posted:

The 715 looks awesome. The XJ looks like you're going to get hantagonoherpesyphilaids just opening the door.

I can smell the stale cigarette scent through my screen.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



Godholio posted:

That front end looks like poo poo, and I'm legit confused by the hood. Is it "to let the heat out" or something?

It's either poorly fitted like the poorly installed Chinese front end or it's for heat extraction like some people do with stock hoods on drag cars. It works on the track, but from what I understand, it reduces the effectiveness of the cooling system at normal speeds on the road.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



IOwnCalculus posted:

My C10 had one of those Prestone kits in it for... at least 15 years, maybe longer. Never had a problem.

I've always had good luck with them on the few cars I've ran with them. Cheap little item and makes it really easy to flush.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



More than any older vehicle I've ever shopped for and/or bought, YJs and TJs bring out the most creative and probably worst fixes I've seen. Aluminum flashing floor pans, literal hangers holding exhaust up, frame rails filled with Great Stuff and sanded, etc. Someone probably "fixed" your glove box at some point, too.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



Cat Hatter posted:

So the alternator in my 98 Cherokee has been acting up lately. Sometimes its fine, other times I have to rev the engine to get anything above 12v. When its acting up I can hear the HVAC blower slow down as I coast around a corner and then rev back up as I get on the gas. There's also sometimes a bit of a burning smell and occasionally a howling that sounds like I have a supercharger. The ground/power cables I can easily inspect seem ok, plus I wouldn't think that would cause the howling. I tried to get Advance Auto to check the alternator but it wasn't acting up at the time and yet somehow confused the dude's computer to the point that he had to pull the battery out of it to reset it.

What I'd like to know is:
  1. Is this probably my alternator and not my old rear end cables?
  2. If it is, should I get a new alternator or slightly rewire to put in a 20 year old junkyard Dodge alternator as shown in this crummy video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yKXj1JgbZ8

I'm not sure about your cable problem as my experience has usually been that they cause more issues under load when starting than charging. However, that upgrade in that video is what I'm planning on when my alternator dies in my YJ. It's widely available and almost a direct bolt-on with the bonus of more amps.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



EightBit posted:

TJ requires changing the speedometer gear in the transfer case. There are countless charts for looking up which one to buy and it's an easy swap.

Rubicons don't have speedo gears.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



Kastivich posted:

I don't think this is accurate. TJ Rubicon requires an electronic fix.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



stealie72 posted:

Hi Jeep Goons.


I looked at and drove way too many YJs and TJs last summer before I bought my YJ and friend bought his TJ. These were all around that same price range up to $5k and what we found was that the YJs had sold frames but had some rust in the body and/or floors. The TJs under $5k were all sketchy as hell and very deceiving at first glance. They'd look good outside, but the frames were all in various states of disrepair or the tubs were rotted out around the body mounts with the tub sagging down over them. Again these were all $5k or less in IN, OH and one in Northern KY.

I ended up with a $2700 YJ that I would trust to drive across the country with a Bible-sized folder of records and receipts. I'm currently prepping it for paint after welding in some patches around the "JEEP" logos on both sides. Downside is that it rides like a log wagon and tops out about 65.

My friend bought a 2001 Apex edition for $4700 on a weekend I couldn't go with him to check it out and was hell-bent on bringing one home. He's now $1600 (Saf-T-Caps and labor) into frame repairs. His was patched like the one you're looking at and had started to rot aound the patches from the inside. When the guy at the 4x4 shop cut the frame to install the caps, the passenger side shattered into chunks of rust and the driver's side wasn't far behind although that side looked solid when it went to the shop. Now that he has the frame repaired, the rollbar needs to come out because the carpet was hiding the rusty sheetmetal where the cage attaches at the rear passenger side and where the center hoop meets the floor behind the driver's side seat.

When you go shopping, take a large screwdriver and stop at a gas station or somewhere and poke around on the frame. You might look like a nut to onlookers, but you could save yourself a huge headache. One guy in Ohio had a really nice looking TJ for $2950. I messaged him on Facebook about it and he had just bought it for $5k and luckily he was honest. He bought it, took it through some mud and then to the car wash and sprayed it top to bottom. When he used the sprayer, it blew chunks of expanding foam out of the frame where it kicks up in front of the rear axle and he was just taking a loss on it.

TL;DR: Buy the latest series your budget allows (unless you have a nostalgia-boner for YJs like me), but be vigilant when test driving TJs and check the frame with a fine toothed comb. Oh, and remember that any "body armor" is probably hiding rust.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



mashed_penguin posted:

The answer to this question is yes

I do need to start thinking about maybe a JK or a JL though as the kids are getting bigger and it would be nice to go on trips with an actual trunk.

Sorry to inform you, but...

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



IOwnCalculus posted:

If the kid wants the Wrangler partly for the image, a stock or anywhere near it WJ is not gonna scratch that itch. But yeah they're way easier to find in good condition than a Wrangler.

You can just use a Sawzall or cutting torch to cut the top off. When winter rolls around, just tack it back on in a few places.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



Braincloud posted:

You know what’s super rad? Getting your XJ all buttoned up, everything running smoothly, everything working (well, besides the AC), no oil leaks, pretty much unicorn status ... and then it decides to eat a piston skirt. 😖

FML.

RIP you beautiful bastard


(J/k I’m not burying it. Looks like I’m dropping in a new long block)

Hmm...if it's an auto, I'd be tempted to throw a 1uzfe in it. The AW4 and Toyota A340 are basically the same transmission and with some shaft swapping will all bolt to the transfer case. Light, 250hp V8 that will likely go 400-500k miles before dying.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



I installed a set of refurbished, 4-hole Bosch 19lb injectors in my 2.5 for $45. I had it torn apart to replace the gasket for the intake and exhaust along with a broken exhaust stud. When I noticed how dirty and crusty my original injectors were, I looked into getting them cleaned professionally and it was more expensive than just getting a set of refurbished injectors. It idles much smoother, but it's probably mostly due to the cleanliness factor more than the 4 holes.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



In the YJ world, RC is bottom barrel, flex-free, "spring rates for a 6k lb brodozer"-garbage, but that's leafs. Maybe their coil spring kits are engineered better.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



IOwnCalculus posted:

Speaking of Joop thangs:





gently caress. I'm pretty sure at least some of those cracks are fresh, and in the second picture you can see that the track bar relocation bracket has been flexing / rubbing on the underlying axle bracket.

Unfortunately for me (my wallet) I do not have a welder, nor any ability to weld, and I'm pretty sure during a pandemic is The Wrong Time to try and get taught well enough to attack a project like this. So now I'm debating having a shop weld this all back together, or just replace the D35 with a Ford 8.8. There's a shop in Colorado that apparently ships out ready-to-go 8.8s for $1200-1400 - wonder if I could get a junkyard 8.8 to a local shop put together for the same or less.

I've priced it out, and it depends what lengths you go on refurbishing one from the junkyard. I don't know about the shop in CO, but I priced it out and I could come out with a better equipped axle than what East Coast Gear offers for the same money, however, that's mostly because I have a guy who is a Mustang nut lined up to build the axle for very little cash if I supply the parts. He's gear swapped a zillion Mustangs including mine 15 years ago and already has all the tools for working on the 8.8.

If you take a junkyard axle to a local shop, I'd bet you'd end up pretty close to the $1200-$1400 range.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



Applebees Appetizer posted:

Which manual trans is used for the JK? I test drove one and it felt like garbage compared to the manual XJ I used to have.....I'm assuming TJs use the same setup as the XJ.

Could be it wasn't taken care of well, but the clutch was stiff as hell and the shifter was crap.

TJs have AX-5, AX-15, NV3550 or NSG370 depending on year and engine. The XJs had the AX transmissions. I don't know what is in the JK though.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



Applebees Appetizer posted:

So I've been looking at Wranglers for probably five months now and have been disappointed for the most part. Lots of over priced crap or rusted out poo poo heaps, or some other kind of issues that I don't really feel like dealing with if I'm gonna pay over ten grand for a vehicle.

Then recently I found a place based in Orlando that will build you a custom Jeep however you want for $13k (YJ). Not a perfect show quality Jeep, but something that looks and drives great built exactly the way you want it. I thought well I've always wanted a YJ Islander, so I called they guy and he said no problem. He can source the configuration I want (late model YJ with FI 6cyl, automatic) and get started as soon as he gets one. He's already invited me to come to his shop to see some current projects and drive a few finished ones. I'm seriously thinking about it, this is pretty much exactly what I want:



I've always loved these

Islanders were my favorite YJ package. I'm currently finishing paint on my YJ, but it's just a 4cyl base model.



In fact, my timer just went off to go spray the next coat on my tailgate.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



Applebees Appetizer posted:

And to be fair, I don't know what the Wrangler market is like everywhere else in the country, but here in Florida it's ridiculous. I'd have to spend the same amount to get a Jeep that has good mileage and is in good condition.

People here are advertising worn the gently caress out Wranglers with trashed interiors and 160k miles for 10 grand and they are selling. Anything that is reasonably priced is gone in 2.2 seconds.

In IN they're high. I consider myself lucky paying $2500 for one with a solid frame and a the smoothest running 2.5 I've ever driven along with a inch-thick folder of every receipt of the last 12 years. I've mentioned it on a couple Facebook groups when the question of how much everyone paid for their jeeps and somebody always chimes in with "well, I only paid $900 for this beaut'" and it's always the same thing, gutted, rusty interior, it needed frame patches, 3 spoke AREs with mismatched tires, and it's sprayed in flat black rattle can or parts store bedliner that's peeling off......but they paid $900

You're lucky to find a TJ under 5k that isn't missing the entire frame between the axles around here.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



kastein posted:

If he's buying them out of state you should pay very very close attention to the frame. Flip shops do all kinds of scary stuff to frames to make them look nice while avoiding fixing them right...

I got really lucky on a TJ that popped up for sale when I was looking. It looked really nice except it was missing flares and he wanted $2950 which set off some red flags. I asked him why it was so cheap and what was the frame like. Luckily, he was honest. He'd just bought it a week or two before and had taken it to the car wash to clean mud off the undercarriage when the wand started blowing chunks of expanding foam out of the frame rails around where the LCAs attach. He said it looked fine and was really convincing when he bought it and was losing a couple grand on it.

Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004



Yeah, that one was Great Stuff type foam and body filler carefully shaped and sanded. He said he felt ill once he saw it.

And if they are rusty, they get worse fast. A friend of mine bought an '02 with the Apex package and it needed patched when he bought it. He drove it a little in the fall and let it sit over winter and holy cow... It went from "this will need patched" to "let's find a route to the shop without railroad tracks so it doesn't break in half on the way to get capped".

I wasn't available the weekend he bought it or I would have tried to talk him out of it.

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Sir Not Appearing
Apr 26, 2004




Or, wait for it.....vent.

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