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Hey Jeep guys. I was going to start a new thread for this question, but I figured it would be kind of annoying for the rest of AI so I'll post it here. Hope that is O.K. with y'all. It's about time I need a new set of tires. Right now I have an extremely aged set of 30x9.5R15 Firestone Firehawk RMTs running on stock height on my 1990 Cherokee 4.0l 2dr. As you might imagine, these tires are slightly large for the truck, and rub a little when the wheel is turned all the way to one side. Honestly, I don't mind the rubbing and have adjusted my driving style to make up for it, but I have become a bit annoyed with its gutlessness at higher speeds (I haven't done any kind of gear adjustment). Thus, I'm thinking about going down a size or two to regain a little bit of "umpf". First of all, what size would you recommend? I have read that 235's are about the same as 30", so would 225's or 215's be better as far as what I'm asking goes? Second, I am looking for a tire that will meet a pretty mixed bag of needs. I live in Colorado and make relatively frequent trips up to the mountains, during the winter and the summer. I need a tire that performs decently in the snow and on fairly minor dirt roads, but doesn't sacrifice a whole lot of on-road performance. Now, it doesn't have to be the quietest, smoothest riding tire in the world - believe me, my truck has enough rattles and shakes for me to have little care for that aspect. I just don't want a swamper or anything silly like that - this is, technically, my daily driver. As a benchmark, the Firehawk RMT is a bit aggressive for what I'm looking to replace it with, but I must admit they have spoiled me, and too much of a downgrade as far as snow/mud performance would not be O.K. with me. A big thank you beforehand to anyone who helps me out. I need to get these tires before Monday. The age of the Firehawks has resulted in two of them developing large bubbles and they have started to rip apart and I need to make a ~250 mile trip next week. I might add that price is definitely a factor, although not the absolute top priority, so please use discretion in this sense in your recommendations.
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Jul 24, 2008 19:08
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MrZig posted:235/75/r15's are more like 28" tires I think. Definitely not 30". You can fit 235's without any rubbing on a stock jeep. Thanks for the recommendation(s). I have been wanting a set of BFG All Terrain T/A KO's for a while, but I'm afraid there a bit out of my price range at the moment. Any other suggestions that might be a bit cheaper? I'd like to keep it around $100/piece, especially since I'm going to be having to buy a 5th as a spare to replace the 30x9.5R15 that's my spare right now.
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Jul 25, 2008 05:29
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I run 235's on my 1990 w/ stock rims and get just the slightest bit of rubbing if I attempt to turn the wheel all the way to the left. I adjusted easily to the problem and now barely notice.
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Oct 29, 2008 18:29
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I've posted several times in this thread over the months, and I've finally managed to get a few pictures of the rust pile 1990 Cherokee 4.0 that I own. Enjoy! Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Wheeeee 2 door!  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. In 2006, I shipped this vehicle from Kauai, HI to Los Angeles and drove it to Denver, CO, where it now resides.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. For most of the 3 1/3 years I've owned the truck, it was riding on an ageing set of Firestone Firehawk RMT's measuring in at 30x9.5R15. Just replaced (downgraded) them with some 235 Goodyear Wrangler SR-A's... only improvement is ride quality; still a bit of rubbing at both extremes.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Some friendly person hit my left front corner while I was at work one evening and drove away without even a note! What a joyous find at 11pm after a hectic night serving steaks to Denver's richest residents.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Some major rust under the vehicle, driver's side right before the rear wheel. I have no doubt this began in Hawaii, although the salt on the roads around here definitely doesn't help.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Bondo job that needs to be sanded/painted still. There used to be giant rust holes there before a little bit of amateur body work was conducted. This is pretty much the usual on any car of any age in Hawaii.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Other side, repair a little harder to see.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Pretty hard to rack up miles on a small island. There were a little over 69k when it landed in Los Angeles in 2006.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Another friendly human being decided he needed my $200 stereo more than I one summer evening. Jacked from behind my house.  Click here for the full 1536x1152 image. Profile - gotta love the 2 doors. Since it has been here in Denver, I've had to have the clutch replaced, some body work to re-attach the driver's seat due to rust, brakes, and a new radiator. Right now it's needing the same body work done under the passenger seat, main oil seal in the tranny, and an oil seal in the T-Case. The oil leaks are slow and manageable so I've been putting it off. I've taken it off road around here a couple of times and it performs beautifully... I just need to figure out more places to go! I'm know there are plenty within an hour or two from Denver. As most Jeep owners have, I'm way past trying to be smart as far as the car's value versus the cost of repairs. I've put far more money into this truck than it's worth, and, frankly, I don't care. You can't beat it in Colorado winters and it's an awesome college vehicle, even though I graduated in June. It's a stick, by the way. Sits on Pilster fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Nov 6, 2008 |
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Nov 6, 2008 20:16
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Quick question: how involved would it be to replace the heater system on my 1990 4.0 Cherokee? The heater in there now is terribly weak - I live in Colorado and the current heater is practically worthless during the coldest days. I drove up to the mountains a couple of winters ago in -10 degree weather... it couldn't have been warmer than 20 degrees in my car the entire way. I had to switch out my steering hands, warming one under my rear end while the other one went numb on the wheel. Thanks for the input beforehand.
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Nov 27, 2008 21:22
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That's interesting. I actually completely flushed my system yesterday to get rid of rust build up from running water through it for years. I have yet to drive anywhere besides the store down the street and didn't even think it could improve the heating situation.
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Nov 27, 2008 23:21
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I just spent 2 1/2 weeks out of town and returned to a strange clanking noise coming from the belt area of my 1990 Cherokee 4.0l. I've driven it a bit with the noise, and today I finally figured out where it was coming from. I turn to you, Jeep Community, because I haven't the slightest clue how to go about repairing this. Click here for the full 768x576 image.  Click here for the full 768x576 image.  Click here for the full 768x576 image.
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Jan 2, 2009 23:02
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I'll give it a looksee - the Chiltons has some vague descriptions of how to remove/adjust the belt that I'll try to follow. Thanks for the identification! I'm going to be putting in a thermostat at the same time which I'm confident I can do no problem.
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Jan 3, 2009 09:58
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Slack3r posted:Yup. I had mine on my '92 seize up on the interstate once. Repaired it on a "cloverleaf" onramp in the middle of the night. Ran me $26 for the pulley and $24 for a new belt. Fun part is the belt adjustment. Need to loosen up all the bolts on the power steering pump and use the 13MM bolt underneath to move it in and out. Not sure on your '90 though, but on my '92 it was that way. The belt needs to be very tight or it will squeal. I'm having some problems getting the power steering pump to move at all. I feel like I'm missing a bolt or something. I've loosened (not removed) the two bolts on the back that seem to control the pivoting and am loosening the 13mm bolt on the right side (my perspective) until it's almost completely disconnected but the belt hasn't gained any slack whatsoever. I've had to take a part the whole air filter system to get to two of the bolts as well. There are three bolts on the front of the pump that I have slightly loosened to no avail. Edit: Pictures  Click here for the full 768x576 image. I've loosened the two bolts you can kind of see here in the rear of the PS pump.  Click here for the full 576x768 image. Now I'm loosening this 13MM bolt that, according to what I understand from you folks and my Chilton's, will adjust the position of the PS pump, but nothing is happening. The bolt is almost all the way out. Sits on Pilster fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Jan 3, 2009 |
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Jan 3, 2009 22:12
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Just wanted to thank those who helped me with my idler pulley problem. I had missed a bolt on the bottom front of the PS pump, and after messing with that for a while I was finally able to get some slack in my belt and replace the problem pulley & belt, for good measure. I encountered somewhat of a hiccup during the thermostat replacement. To make a long story short, I was trying to put the thermostat in backwards, causing coolant leakage. By the time I figured out what the problem was, I had tightened the bolts so incredibly hard that I cracked the housing in half and had to replace it. $12.99 later, I installed everything correctly and my heater works now! woo hoo. During my tribulations trying to loosen the PS pump, I managed to break a couple vacuum lines that, as far as I can tell, were the original lines and had become extremely fragile. Replaced those today and as far as I can tell, all is good. Next on the list is a very, very slow T-case leak. I definitely don't have the equipment to do that myself, so I'll be taking it into the shop for this job. For any Denver goons, All-American 4x4 down south on Santa Fe is the shop I'm a relative regular at. They specialize in Jeeps and, although a bit expensive, know their stuff down to a "T". I figure the cost is worth it after trying to replace a clutch at a nearby Conoco and having them fail to tighten all the bolts, resulting in a failure, and refuse to refund my money.
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Jan 7, 2009 00:10
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Veeb0rg posted:Got my BFG MT's on and picked up the roof basket this morning. Time to load some gear on top and go camping!
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Jan 11, 2009 04:40
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Here I am again, back with another problem on my 1990 Cherokee 4.0l. I took it in a couple weeks back to get the main driveshaft seal on the T-Case replaced (I've known about the very slow leak for the better part of a year, I've just been keeping tabs on the fluid level) and the shop told me I actually needed a $900 repair. According to their writeup, the "syncro shift" in the T-Case is busted and needs replacement, which I assume means they have to remove the entire T-Case and open it up. This would explain the $600 worth of labor they're proposing. The shop said when they attempted to shift it into 4x4, they heard a sound that indicated this was the problem. The only thing I'm questioning is that they claimed the truck wouldn't even shift into 4x4, but when I took it and drove it home, I tested it and it shifted into 4lo no problem. I'm not in any place to question their authority, considering they are a shop that specializes in Jeep repairs and I am a no talent rear end clown, but it just seems sketchy to me. Is this a common problem? Would the T-Case still possibly shift into 4x4 if the syncro shift thingy needed to be replaced? Does this seem fishy to anyone else? Thanks!
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Feb 12, 2009 06:48
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incredibull posted:GUESS: They are probably going to adjust the shifter linkage and charge you $900 for it. It's common to have to adjust the T-case linkage every once in a while on Cherokees/Wranglers. Linkage bushings also go out after a while too, or get dry and brittle if 4wd is rarely used. In fact, I need to adjust mine too. Well I took her down to the local mud hole and did the tests you recommended and, as far as I can tell, nothing is amiss. The shifting was fluid and I heard no strange noises. I've spent nearly $5k at this shop on a truck worth a fraction of that amount and this is going to be very disheartening if they're trying to hustle me out of another grand. Regardless, I've described all of this to my father on the phone who's a mechanic and he's given me the go ahead to just continue driving the thing like I would anyway. Thanks for the help. I'm going to take it down to Meineke and have them do the seal for about $60.
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Feb 12, 2009 22:00
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I was alerted by a friendly motorist yesterday that I had something hanging from the underside of my 90 Cherokee 4.0l. I've scoured my Chilton's and haven't been able to identify the mystery hose. Brief description: the end of the hose that is still attached comes out of the top, rear-facing side of the front differential. The hose itself is between 2 and 2 1/2 feet long and the unattached end features a white hard plastic nipple-type thing. Here is a vague picture to help with my vague description.  Click here for the full 768x576 image. The hose I'm needing help identifying is the one running up the differential in the background. Edit: another picture  Click here for the full 768x576 image. Sits on Pilster fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Feb 22, 2009 |
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Feb 22, 2009 20:28
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Diff breather, it connected TO the differential and has a white thing sticking out, that's the breather and should run up somewhere that would be above most water you'd drive through. I kind of figured it had something to do with letting the thing breathe. So can I essentially run the hose somewhere upwards and just attach it at a random location? Or is there a specific place it needs to be attached? The hose itself actually has a giant hole in it already, so I may use this as an excuse to replace it.
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Feb 22, 2009 20:34
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Does anyone here with a Cherokee have experience installing an aftermarket DIN stereo? There's basically just a large hole in the dashboard and my experiences have been any DIN-style stereo basically just sits in the hole supported by some flimsy plastic bracket supplied to you for free from Crutchfield. I just ordered a Radio Mounting Dash Kit from a random website (a different site, actually - I got it for under $10) and was wondering if anyone here has used anything like this or has any better suggestions for aftermarket stereo installation. I have a 1990 Cherokee for reference. I was also looking at screwing a completely separate basket-type thing for the stereo under the dashboard but I would need to go take a look at it in the morning to see how feasible that would be.
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Apr 2, 2009 07:59
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Hmmm. I never thought of that. Unfortunately the stock radio is long gone. I suppose I could run to a junk yard and pull one out of the countless Cherokees sitting around.
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Apr 2, 2009 17:57
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The battery cables on my truck have been increasingly unreliable/corroded lately. I'm talking about me randomly having to take them off the battery and roughly polish using sandpaper or one of those cylindrical wire brushes in order to get my truck to start. Considering it's 19 years old, spent most of its life in Hawaii (salty air) and likely has the original cables, I was thinking about replacing them. Is this a relatively easy/fast do-it-yourselfer? I don't have too much free time but could probably find one afternoon this weekend. Edit: Also, I'm going to have to do my rear seal in my t-case at some point. Mieneke or wherever only charges about $50 for this procedure so they say, but I'm interested in doing things I can do with my current (extremely minimal) setup to save money and also gain the experience. Could I replace this seal with just a jack, providing it's properly raised? Sits on Pilster fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Jun 5, 2009 |
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Jun 5, 2009 06:29
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Wamsutta posted:Am I looking at a new radiator if a drain/refill of 50/50 mix coolant/water doesn't stop this overheating problem? I'm no expert, but try completely flushing your coolant system. A new water pump to me sounds like water may have been through the system for a significant period of its life. I did this to my Cherokee, just using a simple kit from the neighbourhood auto repair store and you wouldn't believe the amount of poo poo that came out of there.
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Aug 23, 2009 06:52
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Coming from a car sales background, I can echo the earlier poster who said pursuing the trucking company is likely a waste of time/money. A signed Bill of Lading legally confirms that no damage was done during transport. Hindsight is 20/20, but you should have insisted on being the one in Seattle to sign off on the vehicle. You may have something if you argue that whoever signed the BoL wasn’t an authorized party, but I guess that would hinge on the presence (or lack of) a contract that spells it out. Did you sign any type of lease contract with the PAX folks? If so, scour that document to see if they, themselves, guaranteed the truck’s condition in any way. From the sound of it though, all they agreed upon was to provide insured trucking, which, unfortunately, is all but a moot point at this juncture.
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Sep 29, 2011 20:36
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Braincloud posted:So I just got back from a kickin' rad vacay on Kauai. Nice - that's actually my childhood stomping grounds. Eastside forest reserve up towards the blue hole, yes? Did you make it up to Koke´e with that thing?
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Jun 18, 2013 15:22
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Braincloud posted:Definitely up toward the Blue Hole. I wish I'd taken a day to hike up the river to the Blue Hole but not everyone I was vacationing with would have been able to make that trek. We did drive that stock JKU all the way to the end of the road where the first irrigation split is tho. Koke´e is pretty unreal in terms of offroading opportunities. Next time you're around, pick up a map of the state park that shows the service roads and go for it. I can personally recommend the road that goes along Makaha Ridge. It's a dirt track with moderately difficult parts that shoots you out at at the top of a sheer 3000 foot cliff to the sea. Pretty amazing stuff. I have personally driven it with a 4-cyl Nissan Frontier on unspectacular A/T tires without issues, so nothing a stock JK couldn't handle with ease. That link actually mentions a "Kauai Recreational Trail Map" that, although I've never heard of it, could be pretty sweet.
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Jun 19, 2013 16:36
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