|
So I just picked up a brand spankin new JK Rubicon. Anybody located in Central CA that wants to hit up some trails?
|
#
¿
Jun 7, 2013 23:48
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 02:04 |
|
|
jonathan posted:Congrats. 2 door or 4 door ? Manual or Auto ? 2 door, auto. I was tempted to go with a manual but since this is now my primary vehicle, and I've been stuck with a manual in lots of traffic jams before, I chose the automatic.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2013 03:07
|
|
|
Since summer's finally here and temps were reaching the high 100's, I escaped town and ran the Bald Mountain Trail up by Shaver Lake. After wheeling my 4Runner for 5 years and being amazed at how capable it was, I have to say that this Rubicon is light years beyond the 4Runner. It's just so much more composed on the trail, and the hill decent feature is pretty drat nifty. Link to imgur album
|
|
#
¿
Jul 3, 2013 05:47
|
|
|
So this noise just started today. https://streamable.com/2jal Any idea what it could be? Only happens during moderate to hard braking.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2015 07:57
|
|
|
Yup sorry, it's s 2013 JK Rubicon. So far it's also been suggested that it might be the brake booster.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2015 20:37
|
|
|
So after owning my JK for a few years, the severe shittyness of the stock headlights is finally getting to me. What's the general consensus on replacement LED headlight vs. replacement bulbs? Are there any clear, obviously 'best of' products that I should be aware of? Any horrible, terrible replacements that are touted as great but are actual poo poo? Or should I just save 500 bucks and replace the lovely bulbs?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2016 06:43
|
|
|
Thanks for the info. I was already checking out the JW Speaker headlight in the Quadratec magazine but I wanted to make sure that they were worth the price since for a pair they are easily 200 bucks more for a set than any of the others. It's too bad the latest version has that stupid half-halo.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2016 08:34
|
|
|
After a little more aftermarket LED light research for JK's and I ran across these https://www.theretrofitsource.com/full-headlights/morimoto-sealed7-headlights.html They're getting pretty good reviews on the jk forum, although since they're a newish product they don't have a ton of reviews yet. I'm leaning towards trying these out.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 1, 2016 02:00
|
|
|
Grody posted:Have a 2006 jeep wrangler and I just got the death wobble. It started shaking uncontrollably when I hit 55-60mph and stopped when I slowed down. Honestly, I've had good luck with the 4Wheel parts in Fresno. I had a nasty death wobble after I got back from the Rubicon and took it to several shops in Fresno that failed to totally eliminate it. One shop even said that the tie rods were shot (2013 JK with ~20,000 miles at the time) and that I needed to replace almost the entire front steering assembly to the tune of $2,000. Took it to 4wheel parts and they re-balanced the tires and performed an alignment and it solved the problem. Ask for Kevin. Edit: Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but if anybody in the Central CA region is interested I have a set of 5 used JK rims & tires that I want to sell. Shoot me a PM if you're interested. Edit2: Is anybody aware of a toolbox solution for a 2-door JK? Everything I'm finding is for 4-doors 
McDeth fucked around with this message at 08:49 on Feb 7, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Feb 7, 2016 06:40
|
|
|
Is anybody aware of plug and play compatible LED lights that AREN'T the same size as the stock JK fog lights? The front bumper I just got has holes for fog lights but clearly states that they will not accept the stock fog lights.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 4, 2016 04:21
|
|
|
Godholio posted:Who makes it? Usually they know what'll fit or what size you should look for. There are a lot of non-Jeep lights out there. It'll fit pretty anything BUT the stock fog lights, I just want something that I can plug into the stock JK fog light connector without having to re-wire anything. It's just that the stock fog lights require the OEM mounts to work, which in this case won't.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 4, 2016 08:25
|
|
|
Ugh, why is it so hard to find a reliable Jeep mechanic? http://imgur.com/a/zrbra
|
|
#
¿
Jun 24, 2016 00:26
|
|
|
TotalLossBrain posted:Fixed. Ya, the doofuses didn't bother to actually align the exhaust and instead chose to manhandle the exhaust into place. The guys I had fix it said it was under so much tension that when they cut the exhaust it actually dropped like 6-8 inches once the tension was released. And yes, it was like an inch and a half from the top of the track bar in it's pre-fixed condition. Had I gone wheeling it definitely would have crushed the exhaust.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 24, 2016 05:19
|
|
|
DonkeyHotay posted:I was mostly looking at all in one kits because I don't really know what gets smashed often and what doesn't. I took an uncomfortably loud ding on my oil pan yesterday and now I'm nervous. I just had the Metalcloak Skids installed on my JK and while I don't have any experience outside of MetalCloak's, I would highly recommend them. They are designed to be used and abused in the hard granite of the Sierra Nevadas and cover all of the important bits in an all-in-one package. My only two complaints are that they bolt to the factory gas tank skid instead of replacing it and how long they take to actually deliver (3-4 weeks minimum).
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2016 23:28
|
|
|
So, to make a long story short: I frequently offroad my Jeep JK, mainly rock crawling, and have the undercarriage to show for it. I was recently on vacation and ended up in a one-vehicle accident involving a large boulder that I ran into while traveling on the highway. The boulder ended up damaging my front bumper and cross member, as well as breaking my front window, which insurance has agreed to cover. However, the collision also offset the doors of the vehicle as well as buckled both rear quarter panels and severely affected the panel gap of most of the body panels on the Jeep. After the insurance adjuster put the Jeep onto their lift, they saw all of the trail damage (mainly dents and scrapes, but several harder hits as well) and are now saying that the doors and panel fitment issues were caused as a result of "prior damage". This is of course bullshit, as before the collision everything was loving fine. What are my options? What type of attorney should I be talking to?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 15, 2016 02:14
|
|
|
kastein posted:Got any decent pictures of the jeep from after the wheeling runs and before the accident that show it to not be banana shaped? Decent pictures? Not really, I do have some pics that do clearly show that the doors fit fine and it running in the exact config that it was in when the accident happened though... This one was taken a month or so ago.  This one was taken early in the year and actually shows one of the spots that I could actually see maybe causing the passenger side door to sit out of alignment after an accident. Happened on the Rubicon late last year and ended up destroying the rock slider on the passenger side and having to replace the front quarter panel. Note that the door is still in perfect alignment.  Unfortunately because I'm not a cynical rear end in a top hat I didn't take pictures of the damage after the accident because it was, a) loving pitch black, and b) I stupidly assumed that because the damage wasn't there prior to the accident it wouldn't be a problem for insurance to cover it. Lesson learned. McDeth fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Jul 15, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Jul 15, 2016 17:34
|
|
|
mattfl posted:Jesus, how loving big was this boulder to cause all of this? Sure your frame isn't bent? The Jeep tracks straight and true. I figure alignment issues would be a fairly clear giveaway that the frame was bent.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 15, 2016 17:46
|
|
|
DonkeyHotay posted:Those wheels and tires are really sharp looking. What size are they? 15 inch alloys on 35 inch Goodyear Wrangler MTR's. I wanted steelies but finding a 15 inch steel rim that would fit over the stock brakes was proving to be a PITA. mattfl posted:He said it damaged his front bumper/cross member so I was thinking more of a head on hit than running over something. Could be wrong. Hit it pretty much straight on, a little to the drivers side. I hit it with enough speed to actually do a fair bit of damage to the Rock Hard 4x4 front bumper and ride up on to of it a bit, hence the front crossmember damage. Fortunately it didn't go all the way up, otherwise my tie rod would have probably been hosed. torgeaux posted:Before you talk to an attorney, make a sworn statement of the condition prior to the accident, and get statements from other folks who can attest the new damage is, well, new. Submit to your insurance, and if they still say no, then go see an attorney. My issue is that the adjuster isn't saying the damage existed prior to the accident, he's saying that as a result of the rock rash and other related dents and scrapes on the undercarriage that naturally comes as a result of rock crawling in the Sierra Nevada's, THAT'S what caused the conditions that allowed the additional damage to the doors and rear quarter panels and therefore, was prior damage and not covered. McDeth fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Jul 15, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Jul 15, 2016 22:40
|
|
|
Finally met someone who wasn't enthralled with the build quality of pre-buyout Poison Spyder bumpers
|
|
#
¿
Oct 14, 2016 03:05
|
|
|
He was on his cell phone, soooooooo deservedly so
|
|
#
¿
Oct 14, 2016 03:17
|
|
|
mashed_penguin posted:Is there any damage to your jeep ? It pushed the back corner of the bumper in a little bit, so much that the swing arm of the tire carrier now hits the handle on the tailgate. I'm guessing the mounting screws got moved a little bit back, I'll check it this weekend.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 14, 2016 08:09
|
|
|
How much would you pay a reputable 4x4 shop to do a brake job on the rear drums on a 2013 Jeep Rubicon? My jeep was having some strange noise coming from the rear calipers that I thought may have been a bad axle bearing. The noise itself sounded exactly like the brake wear warning indicator noise that you get when your brake pads are low, but the noise was constant and not happening under breaking. However I found a shop to take a look at it and they told me that it was just the brake pads being low which somewhat jive with what I was expecting. The guy quoted me about 90 bucks plus parts to do the job. When I got the Jeep back I got a bill for about $290. I don't have any reason to distrust the shop as they've done good work for me in the past however something just doesn't feel right about being quoted $90 and then getting a bill for close to three hundred for the same work.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2016 02:09
|
|
|
Lets play the random noise game! I first noticed something off a few months ago when the Jeep in question (2013 JK Rubicon 53k hard, daily driven miles) started making some strange vibrations under normal surface street speeds. At first I chalked it up to the tires wearing over oddly and being overdue for a rotation. After rotating the tires, the vibrations decreased slightly but haven't really stopped the same way that they did when I ran for too long on a previous set of tires to the ones I'm running currently. (Now running 35's on on a 2.5 inch Metal Cloak lift vs. then 96 4Runner on 33's with a spacer lift). Everything had quieted down until today, when I recorded this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRWeZ_w2qPk I haven't crawled under yet to see what the problem is (mostly out of fear) but to say that I have gently off-roaded this Jeep for a daily driver would be on Donald Trump levels of business acumen. It did make this noise slightly for a about a few minutes a month or so ago, but nothing with this much potential dollar value attached to it. Hold me.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 14, 2017 04:31
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Seems like it's happening much more than once per rotation of the wheel, so... driveshaft? That's my thought...something to do with either the drive shaft, universal joints, or (god forbid) rear axle.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 14, 2017 06:26
|
|
|
McDeth posted:Lets play the random noise game! Welp, I took the Jeep into my local Fresno stealership and they identified that the rear drive shaft was the source of the sounds, and to make a long story short, decided that due to modifications AND (this is a new one to me) "factory pitman angles that have been adjusted" they are not going to cover the rear drive shaft under a warranty repair. This is going to be fun. Edit: Running a 2.5' Metal Cloak Gamechanger lift on 35's
|
|
#
¿
Apr 22, 2017 01:20
|
|
|
torgeaux posted:Wow. It's subject to a recall. And, the fix makes the throw of the stick much tighter. Yeah I'd get used to that poo poo. My 2013 has been in about 6... 7 times now?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 26, 2017 07:38
|
|
|
Apologies for the cussing, but seriously what god drat engineer decided that this needed to happen? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxCezv2MiLg What in the name of god type of tool do I need to get this bolt out? Am I retarded?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2020 22:25
|
|
|
I tried the u-join and there's still not enough clearance to get the drive onto it so I returned them. I'm hoping the offset box wrench works because a cutting wheel is next.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 17, 2020 01:39
|
|
|
So my 2013 Rubicon has been having some strange issues with power delivery but with no check engine light. The problem is that on the highway in 4th gear between about 3000-4000RPM the engine will suddenly lose about 50% power and the exhaust starts sounding like its severely restricted (similar to what it feels like when a catalytic converter is going). Its an intermittent issue that seems to occur more when its warm, so I took it to the local exhaust shop and and their code reader pulled a 741 code despite the lack of a check engine light. They did a test drive and were able to replicate the issue and after a bit further diagnosis they think that it might be an issue with the torque converter. However, they also said that when they checked the trans fluid that they found metal shavings and that the trans fluid was completely shot. I just pulled and checked the fluid and honestly I can't see any overt signs of metal shavings present in the dipstick fluid but there is no denying that I've been feeling a kind of subtle 'grinding' vibration (similar to what driving on asphalt with a pair of cupped tires fees like) and that has been real concerned. I completely overlooked the maintenance schedule for a transmission flush at 60,000 miles so I guess this is all my fault. Plus, I live in the central valley of CA so most of my driving in the summer definitely meets the criteria of a vehicle that needs one at 60k. Lets hope that my oversight isn't the tipping point that's going to cause my transmission to grenade in the near future... Out of curiosity, I checked ebay and found a decent deal on an automatic transmission that should work (from a 2015 JK, mines a 2013). I've done my own work and installed my own lift kit, front and rear bumpers with a winch, foglights, etc. But this would be the most ambivious self-repair I've ever taken on. I purchased an online sub to Haynes and they have a walk-through for dropping it out and reinstalling which seems pretty straightforward, but just curious if anybody here that has gone through that process could provide a few pointers, etc. McDeth fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Apr 9, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Apr 9, 2020 02:42
|
|
|
So I pulled the pan on the Jeep and as expected after 94k miles the transmission fluid was shot. I replaced the gasket and checked the magnet...thoughts? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bIgM7ISosQ To me it seems about 'normal' for a transmission that hasn't been regularly serviced...ever.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2020 04:02
|
|
|
So quick question; The girlfriend and I were performing a transmission flush and she was tightening back up the drain pan and accidentally stripped one of the pan bolts. It wasn't leaking at the time but a few weeks later I did notice some transmission fluid on the driveway so it's definitely leaking. How difficult is it to drill out and tap a new hole for the bolt? They are special bolts so I can't just go out and buy a larger bolt so I'm thinking of doing this myself but I've never actually tapped a hole like this before. Should I have a mechanic do it?
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2020 20:59
|
|
|
rally posted:I did this in my xj. Tapped a new hole and I think used a helicoil and it’s been good for years now. Just watched a how-to video on helicoils. Seems straightforward, thanks.
|
|
#
¿
May 13, 2020 02:18
|
|
|
Am I going insane? I am trying to find a locking security console to replace the OEM center console that also has a radio insert for my JK and am coming up completely empty handed. I've checked Shittybuilt, Amazon, Fleabay, 4Wheel Parts and even some lessor known custom one off brands and there are absolutely zero options out there.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 13, 2022 09:15
|
|
|
Does anybody know if there is a company making a molle mount to attach stuff to the back seat of a 2-door JK? I know JCR off-road has a couple of cool options for the JK but that’s not one of their offerings.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2022 04:37
|
|
|
Ok, this might be a really stupid question, but here goes. A few weeks ago, I was out in my 2013 JK Rubicon and ended up breaking both the front passenger side axle housing and the half shaft by driving into a washout that I didn't see. Pics below: The night and day after:   In my garage on jacks:     I'm really lucky because I had about $5,000 in parts (basically an entirely new interior, including seats) lined up on Quadratec, that I hadn't yet hit the buy button on. I was also already looking at upgrading to 4.88 or 5.18 gears, but I'm wondering if this is somehow repairable? Obviously, the half shaft is hosed, but I do have a spare, and I'm wondering if welding and trussing might be the way to go until I can save up the $12,000+ to do an entire front and rear swap to something like an Ultimate Dana 44 or Dana 60?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 24, 2023 06:59
|
|
|
Well after giving it some thought, I'm probably going to just drop the coin and buy a Spicer Ultimate Dana 44. I've been running 35's for a while now and save for the latest mishap, I'm pretty happy with the tire size but the gear ratio (4.10's) leaves a lot to be desired. I figure the Ultimate Dana 44 would probably enable me to go to 37s if I ever wanted to, but I'm unsure if if I should go 4.88 or 5.10's. I've been really struggling with overheating and I live in the Central Valley of CA which routinely gets over 100 degrees in the summer.
|
|
#
¿
May 22, 2023 06:28
|
|
|
So one of the first things I did when I got my 2013 Wrangler Rubicon was to replace the woefully underpowered factory headlights with JW speaker LED headlights. Overall, I'd say it's one of the best investments I've ever made on my money pit. Recently however I've noticed that the passenger side headlight has started to flicker, and today I verified that it's not an issue with the JW Speaker unit itself, but rather an issue with the connector on the wiring harness end of the headlight adapter. How would I go about replacing this connector? Are there kits out there that i can buy the connector with?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 12, 2023 23:15
|
|
|
I'll mail $100 to anyone who can correctly guess what's happening here. My 2013 JK Rubicon is randomly throwing dash lights, wipers wiping, and sometimes (but very infrequently), experiencing intermittent engine power loss for <1 second and then recovering. This has been a sporadic issue for the last 6 years, and I thought I had it licked when we replaced the clock spring. This immediately fixed the random, intermittent wiper issue, but recently, it has started to display random dash warning lights again. Today, this came to a head when I started it and the dash warning lights started to chime every 3-5 seconds. A new issue has also now popped up: all of the interior and exterior lights were flickering, sort of like when you have a low battery and a low idle or if you're looking at a monitor at a low refresh rate. I checked the voltage across the battery with and without the engine running and got 14 and 12.5 volts, respectively, so I think both the alternator and the battery can be ruled out. Eventually, everything settled down and I started driving. About a mile down the road, I took a right turn through a stop light, and immediately all of the warning lights flicked on and off, and I lost engine power for about a half-second. For the next minute or two, the flickering issue returned with the headlights, and this time my ham radio started to turn off and on, almost like it either wasn't getting enough power or something was causing the accessory rail to completely lose power intermittently. I also noticed that for a short while, even my speedo and tach were jumping around, which I have not seen before. Everything eventually settled down on the drive back home. When I returned, I shut it off and put the volt meter back on it and everything checked out. However, this time, when I went to start it again, she was completely dead...as in not even the accessory lights would come on when I put the key in or the dome light when opened the door. I popped the hood again, rummaged around, and after about 5 minutes of sitting, it started right up again! Last weekend, my girlfriend and I were driving, and I noticed the battery light had come on—something I'd never seen before. I popped the hood and, without thinking, grabbed the positive battery terminal to check to see if it was loose. I didn't even touch the terminal for more than a fraction of a second, and it was hot enough to burn my finger (easily a first-degree burn). W...T... F... I'm really starting to think that this has something to do with either the ECU, or maybe a bad ground somewhere? I'm really starting to lose faith in the reliability of this particular Jeep...
|
|
#
¿
Mar 28, 2024 07:20
|
|
|
So on a whim, I went and bought an IR camera and...yikes. 2013 Jeep JK  For comparison, my 2017 Ram EcoDiesel  Since I'm dumb and like spending extra cash, I'm dropping it off at a shop that specializes in electrical issues. McDeth fucked around with this message at 07:58 on Apr 1, 2024 |
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2024 07:54
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 02:04 |
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:You already told us what you drive Just wanted to clarify that not all Chrysler products are hot (heh) garbage. Also, we have a big nothing burger. Even the specialist electrical shop refused to look at it because there are too many aftermarket electrical mods. I mean, what the hell? It has a loving winch and a goddamn SPOD...shops these days are hot garbage. The guy recommended I take it into the dealership and have them look at it. 
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2024 17:17
|
|
