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I just bought my very first Jeep a couple days ago on Memorial Day. A 1994 YJ with the 4.0L 6 cly and the 5 spd. It has a few things that need attention: - replace hood because a tree limb fell on it during a storm - complete service and fluids change - minor leak from rear axle - rear glass on the hardtop is out, I'm cutting a piece of plexiglass or lexan to fit it, no way am I paying $500+ to replace it with glass - windshield wipers are comically sluggish Here are the positives: - 4.0 runs great - clutch & tranny are smooth feeling, a very little stickiness on reverse - body metal & trim is almost perfect other than the hood - interior is in remarkably good shape - no "problem" rust at all     I am so excited to play with this thing this summer, it should make a great first Jeep. APOLLO OHNO-UDIDNT fucked around with this message at 00:59 on May 15, 2009 |
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May 28, 2008 17:50
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I've got that great 4.0L and the 5sp AX15 in the YJ, but I just cleaned off the back and it looks like my gear ratio in the Dana 35 is only 3.07  I'm not planning on swapping out the axles for a while to give me a chance to get used to the vehicle. I was reading up on some jeep forums, can I do something mild like a 2" lift and 30" tires on a 3.07 without it driving like crap or losing 5th gear? Any bigger would be bad though?
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May 29, 2008 17:23
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I haven't got carpet (and I don't want it of course). I once rode in a friend's Jeep that had a Herculiner lined body tub. Is this a good idea? edit: I was googling and highly recommend this thread if you haven't seen it before "How do I get Herculiner off my Hootus?!" haha holy poo poo http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=18595 APOLLO OHNO-UDIDNT fucked around with this message at 17:41 on May 30, 2008 |
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May 30, 2008 17:35
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Atticus_1354 posted:Yes. I ripped the carpet out of my cj7 and herculined the interior and it was great. Just don't do a half-assed job of it or it will look bad. Can I roll it on and it will look good or should it be sprayed?
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May 30, 2008 17:47
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I live right on the beach on the pacific coast and this vehicle will be seeing lots of rain, salt, and sand. I'd like to be able to do the "spray it out with a hose" thing after I do the hercu-lining. This might be a stupid question but what else can/should I do to the interior to make it more water friendly?
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May 30, 2008 22:46
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Holy crap, I didn't realize Herculiner came in colors other than black. Anyone tried one of those? Comes in black as well as red, gray, and white. The wrinkle is that red, gray. and white cost $140 for a gallon kit and the black costs $100 for a gallon kit.
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May 31, 2008 01:05
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Ok, I went and r/r the hood on the 94' YJ, did a full service, swapped the tires to bigger ones, and I've been having a hell of alot of fun on the sand near my house. Here is a question: I've noticed that the 4x4 light on the dash stays on no matter what. All of the other electrical is trouble-free. It seems to be shifting from 2H to 4H fine, but the light doesn't go off in 2H. Any advice on how to troubleshoot this? I haven't run into this problem before. Edit: Maybe the vacuum switch? Vacuum lines? Disconnect gear? APOLLO OHNO-UDIDNT fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Jun 15, 2008 |
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Jun 15, 2008 22:24
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charliebravo77 posted:I'm considering trading in my Corolla for this Jeep: http://tinyurl.com/646jeb Ah Liberty. There is a thread on it in AI right now: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2883470&pagenumber=2#lastpost
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Jun 29, 2008 01:09
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Browsing 4wd.com and jcwhitney, I know for sure I am picking up a posi-lock setup, but I'm thinking of a couple more things too. Any opinions on the following before I pull the trigger?: Bestop Trunk Storage System- is this poo poo worthless? I'm not going to be storing bars of gold, just some off-road/camping gear. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...+storage+system Should I get a steering wheel lock? Seems too easy to defeat like the club, was thinking about getting an in-line kill switch and hiding it instead? Any ideas? Right now I'm running with no top and no doors. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+320012&D=320012 APOLLO OHNO-UDIDNT fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Jul 29, 2008 |
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Jul 29, 2008 17:11
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Fellas, I'm about to go about replacing the (shattered) rear hardtop window in my YJ. My plan is to draw a template then cut it out of lexan, have any of you done this kind of thing or know guys that did it? Any tips or ideas would be welcome.
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Nov 10, 2008 04:51
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Legitimate posted:Fellas, I'm about to go about replacing the (shattered) rear hardtop window in my YJ. Well, I'm about to go do this, and could use some feedback- basically is this a crazy idea: Buy the Lexan at the Home Depot in town, I'm not going to get the expensive version used in race cars for this cheapo project. Use butcher paper to draw a template then overlay it and cut out with say a dremel with cutting bit? I also have a jigsaw. Then, I was going to drill the holes for the upper hinges on the roof. Thoughts?
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Nov 15, 2008 01:00
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Ugh, I can't speak for everyone but please don't call me a "jeepgoon" tia To answer some of your questions, 1991 was the year the Wrangler went from carbs to the fuel-injected 4.0L. So the 4.0L/Manual trans is a favorite combo on a YJ, I have this combo in my 94' Wrangler. The biggest difference between the YJ and the TJ is the suspension- the coil-spring TJ's started in 1997. As for this particular car/seller you don't have a lot of info but the guy sounds a little like a froot loop to me based on the way he writes but who knows. Give it a good detailed inspection and test drive like you would with any used vehicle, take a close look at what has been added and what may be missing. There are plenty of Wranglers out there, don't jump at the first one you see unless it is real good, look for one that is solid and has the features you want- it is a buyer's market right now.
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Nov 21, 2008 09:42
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sanchez posted:Ugh, I changed my coolant 2000 miles ago in preparation for winter, the Jeep has just started leaking a header tank full of coolant every trip to work and back (a few hours driving). From what i can see it's coming from right in the middle of the engine (4.0) at the front, where the water pump is. Replacement looks like awesome fun At least it is only like $40 for a reman water pump... incredibull posted:So my D35 started leaking at the pinion seal. Am I safe just slapping in a new seal and re-torquing the pinion nut to spec? Obviously I won't be replacing the crush washer. I know lots of guys do seals like this, but I know the proper method is to measure pinion bearing preload beforehand, and make sure to match it when reinstalling the pinion nut. How are those u-joints doing? It is true that the "correct" way to do it is with preload and a new crush sleeve- that is really up to you, do you know the condition of the bearings? You could score the pinion and nut in line with each other then when you retighten use the score line to match them up. Technically you are supposed to replace the pinion nut everytime as well. Some people do and some don't. One thing you may already know is to remove any rust burns on the shaft with light abrasive paper.
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Nov 21, 2008 19:45
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Triple E posted:Hey guys, back in August I bought a beautiful 2003 Wrangler X manual, 63K on the clock with a soft top and half doors. Here's my issue: The full doors that fit your 03 are the same doors from 97-06 wranglers. As for price, think $2000+ for a new set, and I've seen anywhere from $500-$1000 for a good used set. I'd try searching various craigslist areas within driving distance and try some other junkyards, a search of my local found a couple sets. In addition to inspecting the door metal, make sure the glass is intact, the windows go up and down, and take a look at the condition of the interior door panels.
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Nov 25, 2008 07:47
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Does anyone know any magic fixes for the common door lock problems on the yj? The little Z-shaped metal piece that connects to the cylinder is too weak and gets bent to where when you turn the key in the lock the mechanism only turns half-way (ie not far enough to lock/unlock the doors). Both my driver's and passenger's doors have had this happen 2-3 times each. I'm getting tired of pulling the interior door panels off to manually re-bend the Z-shaped piece to get it to work again. Seriously I stick my hand in there with a pair of pliers and shape it to where it will work again but it is pissing me off. 
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Jan 15, 2009 06:10
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Goddamit I'm moving out of WA state and selling my 94 Wrangler, I'll miss messing around in that. Also thirding the "nice tubes", great job DILLIGAF. Looks like you are having fun with that.
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May 16, 2009 18:42
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incredibull posted:Care to share specs? I MIGHT be interested, but probably not soon enough for your time frame. edit: sold the jeep quote:Those of you with YJs, what the is distance between the back of your rear seat and the tailgate? Just measured this for you. From the back of the rear bracket to the inner lip of the tailgate (ie the "inside" space) I get 15 inches. APOLLO OHNO-UDIDNT fucked around with this message at 01:59 on May 27, 2009 |
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May 20, 2009 20:07
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