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Frank Dillinger posted:I am blessed to have a laundry chute in my house with access from the basement and both upper floors, so I have a basic compressor in the basement and a clean hose to fish up through the chute when I need it. The chute is central in the house and I can reach anywhere I need with it. It’s been so good having a remotely mounted compressor, cuts down on noise a ton. Oh god, I would absolutely use that as an excuse to mount an air line permanently in the chute with outlets teed in for every floor and make sure each one had a dedicated line in the pantry, linen closet etc. To come out whenever needed.
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May 4, 2022 22:14
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wesleywillis posted:In fairness a 5 gallon air tank isn't suitable for much beyond poo poo like nail guns. For air impacts and ratchets etc, 20 gallon is bare minimum and even thats barely adequate. I have a Harbor Freight 8 gallon compressor and it's fine for all that. I'm not on a pit crew so it really doesn't matter if it needs to catch up after I remove 5 lug nuts because at that point I'm switching sockets or jacking up a different corner of the car. Would it be better to have a bigger compressor? Obviously. But a small compressor is fine for working in your garage. Maybe that's the biggest advantage to cordless tools, not having everyone argue about "60 gallons? Pfff, maybe if I only need to put some air in a lawnmower tire. I'm having an electrician run another 3-phase line so I can run double 80s"
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May 4, 2022 22:16
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wesleywillis posted:Oh god, I would absolutely use that as an excuse to mount an air line permanently in the chute with outlets teed in for every floor and make sure each one had a dedicated line in the pantry, linen closet etc. To come out whenever needed. I think it might be a violation of fire code to run a compressed air line in a laundry chute. I'm a computer toucher, not a lawyer or tradesman, so consult your local building codes. I know for sure you aren't supposed to run network cable through an HVAC vent. I had an electrician come to my house shortly after we moved here in 2009. He ran 240V to the garage and ran conduit and wire in the garage on the reverse side of walls in our living room and family room for wall-mounted flat panels. I had a compressor that could be wired for 120 or 240 VAC. I screwed something up in the wiring inside the compressor. When I plugged the compressor in to the wall socket, the compressor went bananas for like three seconds and then never ran again. I need to get a plumber out here someday so I can have hot and cold water hose faucets in the garage. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 22:35 on May 4, 2022 |
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May 4, 2022 22:31
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I have enough invested in air tools that I'd rather keep my shop air setup than replace everything with cordless. Correction: I have more invested in the shop air setup itself than it would cost to replace all my air tools with cordless. Most of my air tools came from estate sales and stuff, so even though I have a bunch, I'd be surprised if I had much more than $2-300 invested in all the tools. One of my estate sale finds was a case with a bunch of different air hammer bits...pointed punches, several different sizes of chisels, nibblers, etc. Then I have some bits I've bought new...a regular hammer head bit, a set of 3 different sized pickle fork air hammer bits...it's amazing how many uses that thing has with the right bits. Edit: it also sounds kinda stupid, but with as dirty as my mechanicin' tools get, it's much easier to wipe grease off a metal Ingersoll-Rand air impact than a plastic/rubber Milwaukee. JoshGuitar fucked around with this message at 23:09 on May 4, 2022 |
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May 4, 2022 23:03
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in the chute, certainly not. but it might be not too hard to run a 3/8 copper line in the same chase.
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May 4, 2022 23:04
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PBCrunch posted:I think it might be a violation of fire code to run a compressed air line in a laundry chute. I'm a computer toucher, not a lawyer or tradesman, so consult your local building codes. I know for sure you aren't supposed to run network cable through an HVAC vent. My dad's barber had a bunch of PVC pipes run all over the place so the barbers could use compressed air to blow hair all around the floor as if they were mechanics. Compressed air in PVC pipes in the open in a room usually full of people and children sitting around.
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May 5, 2022 00:05
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Uthor posted:My dad's barber had a bunch of PVC pipes run all over the place so the barbers could use compressed air to blow hair all around the floor as if they were mechanics. The OSHA thread is thataway.
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May 5, 2022 03:12
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PBCrunch posted:I think it might be a violation of fire code to run a compressed air line in a laundry chute. I'm a computer toucher, not a lawyer or tradesman, so consult your local building codes. I know for sure you aren't supposed to run network cable through an HVAC vent. On the one hand, there isn't supposed to be air actively moving in a laundry chute so we're talking riser vs plenum burn rating. On the other hand, if you go into Home Depot and ask some wage slave where you can buy "riser air hose" you probably deserve to be punched in the mouth. Copper line or fishing a hose through for an hour to do a job is probably still fine though, based on my practically non existent knowledge of what you can legally put in a laundry chute besides underpants.
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May 5, 2022 05:45
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When he said laundry chute, I assumed a hole you throw clothes down through (for when the laundry is in the basement). Does that count as HVAC?
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May 5, 2022 06:30
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New Zealand can eat me posted:When he said laundry chute, I assumed a hole you throw clothes down through (for when the laundry is in the basement). Does that count as HVAC? You are correct and no it doesn't.
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May 5, 2022 06:35
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the reason you need riser/plenum cable is because you dont want it spreading the fire across floors, and you dont want the jacket outgassing toxic poo poo into the air supply. copper has neither problem, so it seems fine to me? idk about legality tho
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May 5, 2022 08:50
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Raluek posted:the reason you need riser/plenum cable is because you dont want it spreading the fire across floors, and you dont want the jacket outgassing toxic poo poo into the air supply. copper has neither problem, so it seems fine to me? idk about legality tho That's what I was getting at. Riser cable has some burn resistance because it goes between floors. Plenum has a higher burn resistance because its for use in a drop ceiling used as a cold air return so the air moving through the HVAC system acts like a bellows to increase the fire spread and then it distributes the smoke throughout the building. I wouldn't expect any air hose to conform to either standard unless its some niche commercial thing that costs $texas.
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May 5, 2022 08:58
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gently caress, well I guess my dream sucks 
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May 5, 2022 11:31
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Raluek posted:the reason you need riser/plenum cable is because you dont want it spreading the fire across floors, and you dont want the jacket outgassing toxic poo poo into the air supply. copper has neither problem, so it seems fine to me? idk about legality tho The "legality" is going to be "no", regardless. If it's an old laundry chute it's already a fire hazard and this could only make it worse. If it's a new and to-code laundry chute (if such a thing exists in your jurisdiction) it's probably got meltable fusible links that close spring-loaded fire dampers at every floor (which this would interfere with) and/or fire/smoke tight doors on every opening which would no longer be able to close properly with hoses running out of them. On fancier/commercial type stuff (mostly trash chutes) these might even be spring loaded doors/dampers that are locked open with an electromagnet which will release them if you lose power or a smoke alarm activates.
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May 5, 2022 14:06
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JoshGuitar posted:I have enough invested in air tools that I'd rather keep my shop air setup than replace everything with cordless. Estate sales are awesome for getting deals on tools. I picked up a bunch of Ryobi cordless (blue, not 18+) for about $5 each. They can use the 18+ batteries so it was a good day.
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May 5, 2022 15:03
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um excuse me posted:Like this but 1/4-20 and maybe 3/8 of an inch deep. Not sure if I’m understanding you correctly, but something like an EZ lock and cut/grind it down? They also have the part diagrams on the website and 1/4-20 might be available in 3/8 depth. The best insertion tool to use is an Allen key machine screw with two nuts, so you can grind the top off and still install it anyway. Link below is an example and isn’t the right size… E-Z Lok Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 8-32 Internal Threads, 0.375" Length (Pack of 25) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002WC8TPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F86PPTTE51YNSCXZSC1K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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May 5, 2022 16:32
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I have a Harbor Freight aluminum jack. It is probably close to 15 years old with occasional use. I have used it less and less over the years as I have become and old man and my cars are not as low as they used to be. I have a bigger, heavier jack for the dorkmobiles I drive these days. I used the aluminum jack the other day to lift the edge of a toolbox and it seemed like it only did any lifting work at the very end of each pump. Each pump resulted in a teeny tiny amount of lift. The most likely cause of this is low hydraulic fluid, right? Is it normal for a jack to lose its fluid over a long time period? Can I just drain the jack and add some new fluid or do I need to start looking around for some kind of rebuild kit? My knowledge of hydraulics pretty much starts and ends with brake systems. If brake fluid disappears from the system you have a problem that needs immediate attention. Is the same true of a jack cylinder?
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May 5, 2022 16:36
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wesleywillis posted:gently caress, well I guess my dream sucks Nahhhh - you just haven't over engineered it enough. Install a copper riser with a master shutoff solenoid in the basement that auto drains down. Use a push button next to the per-floor couplers to energize the riser for X amount of time. Now it's both functional and safe*** Kinda like a more complicated per-floor central vacuum system. LOL
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May 5, 2022 16:36
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CrosspostingWasabi the J posted:My mechanic is pretty rad.
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May 5, 2022 18:51
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PBCrunch posted:I have a Harbor Freight aluminum jack. It is probably close to 15 years old with occasional use. I have used it less and less over the years as I have become and old man and my cars are not as low as they used to be. I have a bigger, heavier jack for the dorkmobiles I drive these days. Sounds like low fluid to me. Since you shouldn't be working on things supported only by it anyways, you can just fill it back up and forget about it, if it happens again start thinking about what might be wrong.
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May 5, 2022 20:17
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PBCrunch posted:I have a Harbor Freight aluminum jack. It is probably close to 15 years old with occasional use. I have used it less and less over the years as I have become and old man and my cars are not as low as they used to be. I have a bigger, heavier jack for the dorkmobiles I drive these days. Before you start adding fluid, twist the handle like you're letting down a car and then give it a couple full pumps to make sure there is no air in the lines. Every time I've gone to add fluid to my jack its always just been air.
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May 5, 2022 22:31
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honda whisperer posted:Looks like harbor freight killed their bead roller. Current need is to put a lip on some 1.5" tube ends but will need it for sheet metal fab later too. I bought one recently, HF doesn’t stock them any more but there is no shortage of generic ones, I got the cheapest 18” one on Ebay or something. Seems to be exactly the same as the Eastwood one. The Eastwood dies fit, I got their tipping die set. Then I upgraded it.  https://i.imgur.com/ei6MpT1.mp4 What you can’t see are the lengths of angle iron I welded on the other side to stiffen it up, they are quite flexy out of the box. If anyone cares I can post some more details about what I did. I haven’t run much through it but the test pieces I did came out great, it crawls so slow at low speed even I can keep it on a line. Big Taint fucked around with this message at 07:09 on May 7, 2022 |
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May 7, 2022 06:01
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Anyone have an opinion on the Central Pneumatic air powered grease gun? I need an additional kind of grease and this thing is on clearance for basically the same price as a normal grease gun. I don't have any trouble with cheap guns (at least not now that I keep the spring retracted when I'm not using them), I'm just wondering if an air powered one is worth the extra two bucks.
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May 7, 2022 10:32
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Cat Hatter posted:Anyone have an opinion on the Central Pneumatic air powered grease gun? I need an additional kind of grease and this thing is on clearance for basically the same price as a normal grease gun. I don't have any trouble with cheap guns (at least not now that I keep the spring retracted when I'm not using them), I'm just wondering if an air powered one is worth the extra two bucks. I've got a 20 year old one and it's been fine, until the last time I used it and still got the "cha-chunk" sound on pulling the trigger, but no grease comes out. I think that's fair enough for a cheap tool to last.
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May 7, 2022 13:55
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EVERYWHERE 
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Advent Horizon posted:More power, you say? I invested in a Mastercool flaring setup for my 944, and loving love it. I've only used it off the car, and not insitu, so that may be something to consider......
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May 9, 2022 08:07
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I have a number of applications where I'd like to wall mount a power brick. I went and got some 1" wide steel of unknown thickness, but it is pretty thin. I also went and got a sheet metal brake from Northern Tool. I got pretty excellent bends from the bender. The problem is that the bends are about an inch apart and go in opposite directions. I tried making these bends with some vise grips and some scraps of plywood. The resulting bends were good enough to use, but pretty crooked and ugly. Any better ideas on how to make straight, square, tight inside bends on the top of the power brick?  This sheet metal brake: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200888085_200888085
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May 9, 2022 16:24
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Cat Hatter posted:Anyone have an opinion on the Central Pneumatic air powered grease gun? I need an additional kind of grease and this thing is on clearance for basically the same price as a normal grease gun. I don't have any trouble with cheap guns (at least not now that I keep the spring retracted when I'm not using them), I'm just wondering if an air powered one is worth the extra two bucks. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it's... fine. My first one died, but it sat around and was barely used. Second one has been going strong for ~2 years as my second pneumatic grease gun at work with 40-50 tubes through it. I've got a Lincoln in the shop for maintenance and the HF over by a wash bay so I can use it after cleaning equipment.
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May 9, 2022 22:55
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Any recommendations for a gear lube pump? I’ve been using a big syringe-style but holy crap they always make a mess. I have no interest in the soap dispenser-style since transmission/tcase fluid changes are >2 gallons. Maybe a drill-powered pump? I can probably dedicate a device to one fluid, GL4, since I can usually get to a differential with either a funnel or squirt bottle.
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May 10, 2022 04:13
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Advent Horizon posted:Any recommendations for a gear lube pump? I usually build a beer bong with a long rear end hose and pour it in. Takes a while. One time I built a SuperSoaker that worked pretty well. Drilled a hole in the oil bottle cap big enough to run a hose to the bottom, JB Weld to seal the hose into the hole, tiny hole somewhere on the bottle. Jam the blowgun from the air compressor against the tiny hole and pressurize the bottle, pushing the oil out the hose. Don't go nuts. The bottle can't take much pressure, and you probably don't want to spray oil all over anyway. meatpimp posted:I've got a 20 year old one and it's been fine, until the last time I used it and still got the "cha-chunk" sound on pulling the trigger, but no grease comes out. I got the black one today and that's all that ever happened. The spring didn't want to push the grease out of the tube, and even when I pushed some through manually it still didn't want to send any through the hose. I know its Harbor Freight and I probably just got a bad one, but the double clearance sale is over so I was already bummed about having to pay an extra 8 bucks. I guess I'll just abandon my dreams of a better grease gun that doesn't cost $Milwaukee.
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May 10, 2022 04:40
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Advent Horizon posted:Any recommendations for a gear lube pump? A drill powered one is what I'd do. I currently use a rotary drum pump for this, at least when I can find the loving thing. If you preheat your GL5 it will flow a lot easier BTW, or alternatively, put it outside in an Alaskan winter, wait for it to go totally solid, scoop it into the diff with a putty knife and slap the cover on before it falls back out. For transmissions I've always left the fill plug out, pulled the shifter off, and poured the fluid in through the shifter hole sitting in the drivers seat. Put down paper and have a rag on hand if you care about your interior.
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May 10, 2022 05:58
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Unfortunately I have to pull the carpet to get at the shifter in both running manual transmission vehicles (the other won’t have carpet when it runs again so your idea would work). And I said GL4, dammit! That’s part of the problem - actually finding GL4 in quantity means I’m using weird bottle sizes. MT-90 quarts are made like a funnel.
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May 10, 2022 06:43
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https://www.jegs.com/i/Motive+Produ...oIaApRZEALw_wcB I've got this and it's amazing so far.
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May 10, 2022 11:38
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honda whisperer posted:https://www.jegs.com/i/Motive+Produ...oIaApRZEALw_wcB Seconding, this thing is excellent.
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May 10, 2022 19:39
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Here's a weird question: what does VoltAlert alert on in a Fluke multimeter? I was removing the ballast in a florescent fixture last week. I shut off the power at the breaker but VoltAlert told me the fixture was still hot. I found a receptacle that was also off (I could see the carbon monoxide alarm plugged into it wasn't getting power) and VoltAlert told me that was still hot as well. As an idiot check, I tested the Live-Neutral and Live-Ground voltages on the light fixture, and those were all 0ish. So what was VoltAlert telling me?
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May 10, 2022 20:02
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PBCrunch posted:Any better ideas on how to make straight, square, tight inside bends on the top of the power brick?
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May 10, 2022 21:05
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Safety Dance posted:Here's a weird question: what does VoltAlert alert on in a Fluke multimeter? I was removing the ballast in a florescent fixture last week. I shut off the power at the breaker but VoltAlert told me the fixture was still hot. I found a receptacle that was also off (I could see the carbon monoxide alarm plugged into it wasn't getting power) and VoltAlert told me that was still hot as well. As an idiot check, I tested the Live-Neutral and Live-Ground voltages on the light fixture, and those were all 0ish. So what was VoltAlert telling me? What do you measure on 'neutral' to ground?
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May 10, 2022 21:16
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Safety Dance posted:Here's a weird question: what does VoltAlert alert on in a Fluke multimeter? I was removing the ballast in a florescent fixture last week. I shut off the power at the breaker but VoltAlert told me the fixture was still hot. I found a receptacle that was also off (I could see the carbon monoxide alarm plugged into it wasn't getting power) and VoltAlert told me that was still hot as well. As an idiot check, I tested the Live-Neutral and Live-Ground voltages on the light fixture, and those were all 0ish. So what was VoltAlert telling me? ryanrs posted:What do you measure on 'neutral' to ground? Nothing? They're bonded at the panel unless there's a problem.
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May 11, 2022 02:00
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Safety Dance posted:Here's a weird question: what does VoltAlert alert on in a Fluke multimeter?  Ok, so basic premise on these is that there's a small antenna tuned to 60hz (mains frequency). Any wire that has an AC voltage on it will generate an oscillating electro-magnetic field around it, with 60hz the wavelength is long enough that the lengths involved in home wiring make for an incredibly lovely antenna, so this radiated field is super tiny and very low energy. The tiny antenna in the contactless voltalert meter is also a crappy antenna for 60hz but it will pickup a tiny tiny signal letting you know that there's voltage present. This tiny signal is useless as is so it needs to get boosted a ton. Transistors are cheap and have some pretty impressive gains so they use a few stages to boost the recieved signal thousands of times higher than it was received at. The diagram below idea missing some components but gives you the basic typography of the circuits inside these meters.  β (the current gain) of each stage can be between 50 and 200 (crapshoot based on manufacturing and luck, typically you use a few resistors to make the variability not matter as much to reduce your gain, but in this application we want some crazy high gains). At the last stage we add an LED that will blink based on the received signal.  All in all, because the gain is crazy high it can detect very weak voltage signals. The wiring in question may be coupled to another live wire and be carrying an induced voltage. This voltage would drop to zero or near there is a meter is put in the circuit as it pulls the voltage down by loading the circuit (tiny but the meters impedance is not infinite so it will draw a tiny amount of power, the type of coupling you'd see with house wiring would be incredibly weak) So that's basically it, or at least the coles notes version.
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May 11, 2022 04:10
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Bajaha posted:
Thanks for all this! I forgot about induced voltages. I've never seen a false positive like this before, but it was my first time using a Fluke vs a Klein pen, and the first time with romex instead of thhn in metal conduits that would have shielded the circuit better. ryanrs posted:What do you measure on 'neutral' to ground? Yeah, zero. It was mostly a stupid check to make sure whoever installed the light fixture didn't get black and white mixed up. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 06:30 on May 11, 2022 |
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May 11, 2022 06:28
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Lowclock posted:Good question. With a press brake you can make basically a little v-shaped riser/mandrel that you press against so it gets the work off the table in front and back. One like yours without even fingers seems like it's just very limited in what it can do without hacking chunks out of it. I'd probably just do it in aluminum by hand on a counter top or something unless these power bricks (???) are insanely heavy or you have daily earthquakes. I just want the holders to look nice and hold securely. I have a HF 20 ton hydraulic press in my basement that I have used once. The v-shaped mandrel sounds like it might work for me. I have been on a kick to neaten up the wiring of around my computers and TVs, so I have a whole stack of power bricks I want to secure in place. I've been eyeing some pre-made power brick mounts, and the manufacturers seem too proud of their products. No earthquakes in Nebraska, but who knows what events the effects of climate change will bring. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 16:47 on May 11, 2022 |
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May 11, 2022 16:42
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