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Kind of a tool, but any recommendations for shop rags? I've got about 100 of the cheap pink/red rags from over the years, looking for something a little better for engine work. Not happy after I cleaned out the oil screen of the last motor I rebuilt and it was full of pink fuzz. I've heard of people using old cotton clothing. Figured I'd ask in here too, recommendations for ultrasonic cleaners? Leaning towards the chicago one from harbor freight, just need an excuse to pick it up.
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May 4, 2012 03:37
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Broke my 1/2" drive breaker bar trying to unbolt a caliper bracket, website says its rated for 350 ft/lbs... I am thinking so. What kind of noise did that make??
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May 4, 2012 03:54
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Breaking a powerfist™ breaker bar? I don't believe this.
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May 4, 2012 04:05
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velocross posted:Figured I'd ask in here too, recommendations for ultrasonic cleaners? Leaning towards the chicago one from harbor freight, just need an excuse to pick it up. It sucks, I have had the $80 version for a couple weeks and it's packed up to be returned tomorrow.  It just... doesn't clean much. It'll get dead skin off of glasses, but that's about it. Grease, oil, tough dirt, sticky stuff? Nope. I bought it to clean industrial oil off of jewelry supplies that I'd normally put in a rock tumbler with hot soapy water; the problem with the tumbler is they all hit each other a lot, and an ultrasonic cleaner is what the pros recommend instead. It got some off, because the water changed color, but not nearly enough, my fingers still got blackened during assembly. Sorry!
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May 4, 2012 14:36
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Hf ultrasonic cleaner is garbage don't bother
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May 4, 2012 15:05
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I would like to know how you broke a breaker bar on a caliper bracket bolt? They are supposed to be really tight, but they come off as part of a brake service so they are removed and re-installed on a semi-regular basis.
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May 4, 2012 16:39
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velocross posted:Kind of a tool, but any recommendations for shop rags? I've got about 100 of the cheap pink/red rags from over the years, looking for something a little better for engine work. Not happy after I cleaned out the oil screen of the last motor I rebuilt and it was full of pink fuzz. I've heard of people using old cotton clothing. I like the Kimberly Clark X60 Wypalls (or higher grade X70, etc.).
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May 4, 2012 17:07
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PBCrunch posted:I would like to know how you broke a breaker bar on a caliper bracket bolt? They are supposed to be really tight, but they come off as part of a brake service so they are removed and re-installed on a semi-regular basis. Caliper yes, Caliper bracket? Not so often. Heck, most cars it only has to come off if you are servicing the hub/cv. Most brake jobs don't involve taking it off.
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May 4, 2012 17:09
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Mighty Horse posted:Most brake jobs don't involve taking it off. Depends on if you can shave the rotor while it's on the vehicle or not. If not, that bracket's probably coming off.
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May 4, 2012 18:02
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Found the receipt! The exchange was a breeze. It didn't really make any noise at all, I thought I loosened the bolt and was all "oh boy! " until I took a look. 15 Canadian winters will take a toll, the bleeder screws have pretty much fossilized into the caliper.
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May 4, 2012 18:24
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Mighty Horse posted:Caliper yes, Caliper bracket? Not so often. American cars I guess. Every import I have ever worked on requires removal of the caliper bracket to remove the rotor.
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May 4, 2012 19:11
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Found the receipt! The exchange was a breeze. Princess auto are pretty good at tracking purchases with your phone number. If it's in your history they'd process it without a receipt.
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May 4, 2012 23:08
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PBCrunch posted:American cars I guess. Every import I have ever worked on requires removal of the caliper bracket to remove the rotor. I work almost strictly on imports and have never had to take off the bracket to remove the rotor.
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May 4, 2012 23:23
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Depends on the caliper bracket style. I've seen a lot that don't capture the rotor ('90 and earlier Jeep XJ, Teves caliper style Jeep WJs, some Dodges, Hondas, etc) and some that do as they're a full wraparound bracket to improve stiffness - Akebono caliper style Jeep WJs and my 01 Dodge 2500 van (8 lug wheels, 4000lb capacity) fall in this category among others. In general I like the wraparound ones more, they seem better engineered, but it sure is more of a pain in the rear end to do a brake job.
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May 5, 2012 01:12
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I'm moving from my house back into an apartment in town, then I'll be moving out of state, but I'm not really sure what to do with my tools. I need to be able to get stuff up and down stairs, so I don't think my big Craftsman chest is going to do the trick for me. About the only thing I can think to do is get that big Stanley wheeled 50-gal tote and a bunch of individual organizers for things like my sockets and wrenches. Anyone have better suggestions?
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May 5, 2012 05:25
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I'm moving from my house back into an apartment in town, then I'll be moving out of state, but I'm not really sure what to do with my tools. I need to be able to get stuff up and down stairs, so I don't think my big Craftsman chest is going to do the trick for me. About the only thing I can think to do is get that big Stanley wheeled 50-gal tote and a bunch of individual organizers for things like my sockets and wrenches. Anyone have better suggestions? Let the bidding start at $100!
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May 5, 2012 05:27
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I'm moving from my house back into an apartment in town, then I'll be moving out of state, but I'm not really sure what to do with my tools. I need to be able to get stuff up and down stairs, so I don't think my big Craftsman chest is going to do the trick for me. About the only thing I can think to do is get that big Stanley wheeled 50-gal tote and a bunch of individual organizers for things like my sockets and wrenches. Anyone have better suggestions? I think there's an old wives' tale about this one.
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May 5, 2012 06:10
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Put the big stuff in storage for now before moving out of state, bring the essentials in a small tool box, and get a tool bag for when you actually need to take things out of the apartment so you don't carry everything.
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May 5, 2012 06:56
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I'm moving from my house back into an apartment in town, then I'll be moving out of state, but I'm not really sure what to do with my tools. I need to be able to get stuff up and down stairs, so I don't think my big Craftsman chest is going to do the trick for me. About the only thing I can think to do is get that big Stanley wheeled 50-gal tote and a bunch of individual organizers for things like my sockets and wrenches. Anyone have better suggestions? This way, you only have to lug around what you actually need for each job.
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May 5, 2012 16:25
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grover posted:A bunch of cheap plastic toolboxes, sorted by task, may serve you well until you can get your big box out of hock/storage. This, either organized by task or by type, like all metric sockets on rails in one box and standard sockets on rails in another box.
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May 5, 2012 16:47
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Finally got my crowsfoot wrenches. Ordered them january 27th(!) Fit and finish is nice, but not perfect. I don't have any other "KS Tools" so time'll show what they're up to.
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May 7, 2012 14:54
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bolind posted:Finally got my crowsfoot wrenches. Ordered them january 27th(!) They're worth it. Just remember to calculate for the longer arm when using them on a torque wrench. Hmmm, spændende om Tryg vil forsikre den grafikdriver 
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May 7, 2012 16:57
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Yeah, supposedly the SOP is to just make sure it's at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench, that's close enough for almost all applications. Jeg ville ønske grafikdriveren var forsikret, for nu er den gået i udu... 
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May 7, 2012 17:28
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I've never seen them used, I don't think my dad ever had a set, and therefore have no idea how or why you would use those. e: makes perfect sense looking at it that way, thanks metallicaeg fucked around with this message at 23:15 on May 7, 2012 |
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May 7, 2012 23:06
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So you can use a torque wrench on something you can never get a socket on, like a pipe fitting or similar.
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May 7, 2012 23:13
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metallicaeg posted:I've never seen them used, I don't think my dad ever had a set, and therefore have no idea how or why you would use those.
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May 8, 2012 01:07
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Good for o2 sensors.
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May 8, 2012 01:12
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grover posted:A bunch of cheap plastic toolboxes, sorted by task, may serve you well until you can get your big box out of hock/storage. I used to do something similar to this. I have a whole pile of tool boxes sorted by type (wrenches in one, socket wrenches in another, a "general purpose" box, special tools, etc). Way too much poo poo to lug all of it down a bunch of stairs every time I wanted to do something. I would determine what I'd be most likely to need for whatever job I was doing, then loot the boxes for the needed items. Then I'd throw everything in a 5 gallon bucket or two (free from work), and take those down with me. I always had to run back a few times for things I ended up needing that I didn't put in the bucket though.
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May 8, 2012 06:48
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velocross posted:Kind of a tool, but any recommendations for shop rags? I've got about 100 of the cheap pink/red rags from over the years, looking for something a little better for engine work. Not happy after I cleaned out the oil screen of the last motor I rebuilt and it was full of pink fuzz. I've heard of people using old cotton clothing. I got mine from Home_Spa_Outlet on ebay. I bought the DSA150SE I can't find it on there now but it was perfect. They do have the 100 and the 200 though: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DSA100SE-SK...#ht_5786wt_1163 http://www.ebay.com/itm/DSA100SE-SK...#ht_5786wt_1163
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May 8, 2012 15:42
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grover posted:They're also handy when working in very tight places, as it lets you adjust the geometry a bit as you contort for leverage. All-in-all, a very nice tool to keep in your toolbox. Yep, I need them to take the SU carbs off my Rover V8.
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May 8, 2012 23:02
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stoko posted:I work almost strictly on imports and have never had to take off the bracket to remove the rotor. I have to remove the brackets on my 2001 Legacy to get the rotors off.
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May 9, 2012 07:01
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So, I ordered myself some more cheap toolchests from Halfords to tidy stuff up into, and not only did they completely fail to deliver them when they were meant to (Note - if someone pays extra for Saturday delivery, they specifically want it delivered on a Saturday!), but when I finally got them (by going and picking them up from the deopt), they'd managed to damage all four of them. It's not that loving complicated, guys. 
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May 9, 2012 19:46
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InitialDave posted:So, I ordered myself some more cheap toolchests from Halfords to tidy stuff up into, and not only did they completely fail to deliver them when they were meant to (Note - if someone pays extra for Saturday delivery, they specifically want it delivered on a Saturday!), but when I finally got them (by going and picking them up from the deopt), they'd managed to damage all four of them.
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May 10, 2012 11:15
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I never had luck with jacks, especially with big fat rear end trucks, Torin, HF, sears, etc. I want to get a Milwaukee model 40, but that's too much coin for me until I get my own shop or garage setup first I'm going to roll with the 4 ton HF floor jack tomorrow and see how that works on a suspension job I got to do tomorrow.
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May 13, 2012 01:35
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I am casually looking at buying scan tool software from AutoEnginuity, specfically with the GM expansion: http://www.autoenginuity.com/index.html Anybody here use this? I think for the price it is a good deal, although it won't be something you can put in the toolbox.
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May 13, 2012 06:43
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porkfriedrice posted:I am casually looking at buying scan tool software from AutoEnginuity, specfically with the GM expansion: http://www.autoenginuity.com/index.html What are you using it for? I have an Innova 3130 that I bought for that reason but I rarely use it since I got Torque. I don't think it can actuate bidirectional controls but other than that it's immensely powerful. And between it and the required dongle I only paid $35. I'm fairly certain either can read GM-specific codes, too.
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May 13, 2012 15:21
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Aluminum floor jack recommendations? My HF 3ton finally died and I can't bring myself to buy another. Anyone used a Torin/OTC/Arcan aluminum jack before? I have a Arcan steen jack (cosco) and it works amazing. Cheap code reader recommendations? My HF one walked off . I just need it to pull basic codes from our randoms cars.
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May 13, 2012 17:18
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the spyder posted:Cheap code reader recommendations? My HF one walked off
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May 13, 2012 18:41
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porkfriedrice posted:I am casually looking at buying scan tool software from AutoEnginuity, specfically with the GM expansion: http://www.autoenginuity.com/index.html I know a bunch of guys who use it on 6.5 diesels, it's a cheaper alternative to something like a GM Tech II or whatever is the latest and greatest tech tool at the dealerships:  You can pull and record/playback all the usual data points but with the GM module you can jump in and turn off individual fuel injectors to trouble shoot rough idles, activate individual solenoids in Automatic transmissions, there's a big bag of tricks there. You can even override the ECU and make your own maps but you still require a GM Tech device to flash ECU's and such I believe. If you are getting the older version make sure it's the USB dongle version and not the serial dongle version, the licensing of the software is kinda locked with the serial dongle version. THe USB version you can transfer it from computer to computer fairly easily if I recall. Speaking of tools, I think I'm going to pick up one of those Power Probe III's, heck for the price, I'll get 2 as gifts, $100 it's one of the nicer all in one testers around , I usually use a meter, a probe and a live fused line to test stuff, but this thing will combine it all into one, plus it does recording of values as well.
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May 13, 2012 18:44
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CornHolio posted:What are you using it for? I have an Innova 3130 that I bought for that reason but I rarely use it since I got Torque. I don't think it can actuate bidirectional controls but other than that it's immensely powerful. And between it and the required dongle I only paid $35. I'm fairly certain either can read GM-specific codes, too. Well, I may or may not be having an issue with my distributor on my GMC truck. (P1345) I need to be able to view the camshaft retard readings, which the basic code readers won't show. Also in case I need to do a CASE relearn, which most code readers aren't capable either. Having the ability to read ABS codes would also be nice, since the ABS light has been on since I did some front end work (I replaced the speed sensor on the side I was working on, light is still on and I have no idea why). I already have this scanner: http://www.amazon.com/OTC-3109-Trilingual-EOBD-Scan/dp/B004CGODSI/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1336944493&sr=1-3 , but its capabilities are limted.
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May 13, 2012 22:29
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