|
tim0mit posted:Are most post 2k american cars metric? Trust me. Metric is all you ever need.
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 05:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 22:07 |
|
|
Long story short, I need to splice some wires together for an adapter harness for my car's head unit. I am also terrible at soldering. I see McMaster carries "Sure-Connect Sealed Butt Splices", which look to be a butt connector that you crimp on, then heat to simultaneously melt some enclosed solder and melt the heat shrink. Is this something that I would want to use?
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 07:11
|
|
|
Just get a cheap pair of ratcheting crimpers and a box of blue butt connectors.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 07:29
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:Just get a cheap pair of ratcheting crimpers and a box of blue butt connectors. This. Don't over think it. You're just putting in a stereo, butt connectors have worked for decades.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 15:50
|
|
|
Personally, I'm terrible at crimp-on butt splices. These are my favorite: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/765/=kh3wau (No-crimp twist-on for stranded wire). I exclusively use the water-tight version on my motorcycles.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 15:59
|
|
|
I am always suspicious of the solder ones - get a box of sealant lined heatshrink crimp butt splices. Also, get a decent ratchet or hydro crimper. The reason most people can't get a solid crimp that will pass a pull test is that they are using $7 lovely stamped sheetmetal crimpers that are about half a step up from mashing the crimp with a pair of pliers. Crimpin ain't easy, guys. Not without the right tools anyways 
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 16:03
|
|
|
kastein posted:I am always suspicious of the solder ones - get a box of sealant lined heatshrink crimp butt splices. Also, get a decent ratchet or hydro crimper. The reason most people can't get a solid crimp that will pass a pull test is that they are using $7 lovely stamped sheetmetal crimpers that are about half a step up from mashing the crimp with a pair of pliers. I just use pliers. Usually crimps better than those lovely crimpers if you know what you're doing.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 16:49
|
|
|
Use one like this at the very least. I have an AMP branded one and it's leagues ahead of the pliers-style type.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 16:58
|
|
|
I've just got my hands on a bunch of cheapish Ni-Cd cordless tools that don't have chargers (ex-display stock, not stolen!). They have quite a range of battery types - 12v, 14v, 18v and the ones with the same voltage, don't have the same dimensions. I have a feeling that buying a complete set of chargers is going to be bad value for money - is there such a thing as a 'universal charger'? Something with croc clips or the like to connect to the battery packs?
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 17:28
|
|
|
veedubfreak posted:This. Don't over think it. You're just putting in a stereo, butt connectors have worked for decades. This harness has been giving me nothing but problems and I'm way over thinking everything related to it at this point. Where's a good place to get quality butt connectors from? Would McMaster be alright (my mom works there and gets a huge discount)? All I have is some that came with a $10 "electrical kit" from Wal-Mart, which I don't really trust to hold. Doctor Londom posted:Use one like this at the very least. I have an AMP branded one and it's leagues ahead of the pliers-style type. Is the HF tool "good enough". I really don't do electrical work and don't want to drop $40 on a tool that will just sit in my tool box.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 17:44
|
|
|
Everything at Harbor Freight is "good enough." Especially when you pay 5 bucks for 8 screwdrivers.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 17:55
|
|
|
Uthor posted:Is the HF tool "good enough". I really don't do electrical work and don't want to drop $40 on a tool that will just sit in my tool box. I have this one. I kind of suck at crimping wires, but I can manage good solid crimps with it, even with lovely terminals. Before that, I was using either the stamped steel type (worthless) or mashing it with pliers.  Mainly because of this, I always preferred soldering + heat shrink tube on my wire harnesses. I did one this way in 1996 that I'm still using today in my beater, and it hasn't skipped a beat yet. The other thing I dislike about using crimped butt connectors on car stereo harnesses is that you end up with this big bulky pack of them in the middle of the harness that you have to wrap up and stuff out of the way, unless you think ahead and offset them so they don't all end up at the same point in the harness.If you will be crimping everything though, the best way to do it is to strip enough insulation from the wire to allow you to fold the wire back over the insulation, then feed the insulation + folded over wire into the terminal and crimp on that (if that makes sense). That way, you don't get a wire that breaks off just behind the terminal after a couple weeks.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 19:20
|
|
|
The harness I have is supposed to be plug and play, but the ground wire and another get flipped between the two ends, causing a short and the fuse to blow. I will only need to use two connectors, unless there are other mixed up wires that I missed...
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 19:48
|
|
|
i have this for crimping: http://www.service.kleintools.com/T...IN/Product/1005 it is great
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 00:19
|
|
|
Vork!Vork!Vork! posted:i have this for crimping: http://www.service.kleintools.com/T...IN/Product/1005 Seconding this, and also seconding that most people can't crimp for poo poo but a good crimp is just as good as soldering.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 01:35
|
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:Seconding this, and also seconding that most people can't crimp for poo poo but a good crimp is just as good as soldering. I have actually heard that a good crimp might be better than soldering, it is more resistant to failure from vibrations. not sure how true this is though
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 01:38
|
|
|
I saw a lot of arguments for both when I searched online, but the consensus was that a mediocre crimp is better than a mediocre solder joint, and I think I can figure out how to crimp correctly easier than I can learn to solder correctly.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 01:45
|
|
|
Vork!Vork!Vork! posted:I have actually heard that a good crimp might be better than soldering, it is more resistant to failure from vibrations. not sure how true this is though
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 02:21
|
|
|
I got one of the ratcheting crimpers from HF and the dies were garbage. I could crimp better with a pair of dikes. I splurged and got the Ancor ones that HF copied and it's a night and day difference. I like HF for a lot of things but their crimpers are not worth it. The Ancor ones were like 60 bucks but so, so worth it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 02:36
|
|
|
Klein Tools make some pretty bad rear end electrical tools. I have a set of the strippers and it makes work very easy. http://www.service.kleintools.com/T...S/Product/11063 Pricy but very worth it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 03:31
|
|
|
http://www.service.kleintools.com/Tool/PRD/Category/Long-Nose%20Multi-Purpose%20Tool%20STRIPPERS-COMBINATIO-LGNSMLTPRP I have this sucker. I love it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 03:47
|
|
|
Ok guys. I have a riddle for you. How can I make this http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-80-grit-shaft-mounted-wheel-brush-91371.html fit on this http://www.harborfreight.com/120-volt-3-high-speed-cut-off-tool-68523.html Using it on my drill just isn't getting the job done. Bonus question. How long are grinding wheels really good for? veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Dec 7, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 16:05
|
|
|
grover posted:It is true. Case in point: US military requires connectors be crimped, not soldered. NASA accept either as long as it is done up to standard. http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/frameset.html for some bedtime reading.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 16:46
|
|
|
Colonel K posted:NASA accept either as long as it is done up to standard. http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/frameset.html for some bedtime reading.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 17:57
|
|
|
grover posted:It is true. Case in point: US military requires connectors be crimped, not soldered. I don't think you know how evidence works. Soldering is easy. Crimping is easy. If you're better at one, do that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 19:32
|
|
|
Is any one else's Matco guy a complete and utter dick for no good reason?
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 19:36
|
|
|
veedubfreak posted:Ok guys. I have a riddle for you. Your second link is dead, but I suppose this is the correct link: http://www.harborfreight.com/120-volt-3-high-speed-cut-off-tool-68523.html I wouldn't try to run a nylon wheel at that speed. It'll melt in a matter of seconds. Those nylon wheels are pretty good for removing paint in hard-to-get-to places, but not much else. Forget them for rust.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 19:52
|
|
|
Phone posted:I don't think you know how evidence works.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 20:09
|
|
|
grover posted:It's not about ease, but reliability. Soldered connections are prone to cracking from stress and vibration, which is why crimps are usually the better choice. I somewhat really doubt properly soldered wires protected by a fitting heat shrink tube will crack from stress before a crimp gets loose. Both are valid options, and most people sucks at both.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 20:18
|
|
|
gently caress y'all. Just braid both sides of the wires together and make it look like a ponytail. Then wrap it in masking or painters tape.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 20:21
|
|
|
Viggen posted:gently caress y'all. Just braid both sides of the wires together and make it look like a ponytail. Then wrap it in masking or painters tape. Where I live, we call it an English harness.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 20:28
|
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:I somewhat really doubt properly soldered wires protected by a fitting heat shrink tube will crack from stress before a crimp gets loose. Both are valid options, and most people sucks at both. Properly soldered with real (high lead content) solder works fine. Low lead/no lead solder work hardens from vibration and cracks in many situations you'll be stuffing automative wiring. Even with a proper mechanical connection, proper solder and technique, proper materials, and stress relief on the joint (heat shrink, properly sized and applied) a proper crimp is well recognized to be a better choice in general. All of this depends on the quality of the work and tools, and even at that depends on exactly where the connection is going to be (location, vibration, environment). In general it's much faster and easier to get a good solid connection for your average mechanic or garage tinkerer with a selection of appropriate sizes and types of high quality crimp fittings and a good quality crimping tool. Solder if you like, but know that it's not likely to be a better solution. It's just going to take a lot longer to do well enough to equal the quality of a crimp. The only times I typically consider solder on wire splicing is for exterior items in the middle of a run that won't be disconnected again in an environment where any tupe of plugged fitting is likely to corrode and fail over time due to environment without using much more expensive weatherpak type connectors. Think under hood/under chassis wire repair.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 20:29
|
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:Your second link is dead, but I suppose this is the correct link: http://www.harborfreight.com/120-volt-3-high-speed-cut-off-tool-68523.html I fixed the link. I'm using it for the rails around the cloth sunroof. Basically nothing else is going to get in there. No rust, just dirty as all hell and old paint.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 20:31
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Properly soldered with real (high lead content) solder works fine. Low lead/no lead solder work hardens from vibration and cracks in many situations you'll be stuffing automative wiring. Even with a proper mechanical connection, proper solder and technique, proper materials, and stress relief on the joint (heat shrink, properly sized and applied) a proper crimp is well recognized to be a better choice in general. I totally agree with most of this, however the "garage tinkerer with a selection of appropriate sizes and types of high quality crimp" would most often make a better connection soldering his poo poo, than doing his typical sloppy work with his lovely wrench-monkey pliers. It's just easier for wrench-monkeys to feel good about a lovely crimp.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 20:37
|
|
|
veedubfreak posted:I fixed the link. I'm using it for the rails around the cloth sunroof. Basically nothing else is going to get in there. No rust, just dirty as all hell and old paint. Use a thin brass wheel brush. edit: Something like this http://precisionbrush.com/brass-wire-copper-center-wheel-brush Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Dec 7, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 20:39
|
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:I totally agree with most of this, however the "garage tinkerer with a selection of appropriate sizes and types of high quality crimp" would most often make a better connection soldering his poo poo, than doing his typical sloppy work with his lovely wrench-monkey pliers. It's just easier for wrench-monkeys to feel good about a lovely crimp. Ouch man c'mon E: I've always twist-and-soldered my car stereo wires and never had one come loose, though I'm willing to play around with crimping. Won't be the same without the smell of burning wire insulation though.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 20:49
|
|
|
This thread has turned into the aftermarket audio complaint thread?
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 20:51
|
|
|
Jared592 posted:Ouch man c'mon Yeah, also must aluminum crimps are made in China these days. For car stereos crimping sucks. There's not much room in there to store communist crimps.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 20:56
|
|
|
I didnt read all the posts but people are talking about crimping. I am a senior in mechanical engineering and know a bunch about manufacturing and used to work in engineering at a milspec crimp tool manufacturer. I can answer literally any question about electrical crimping. To sum up my advice thus far in this thread: -For the price, HF's ratcheting crimp tool owns, the manufacturing quality isnt good but it can crimp stuff well. -It is dangerous to use HF's butt connectors. -ONLY USE UL LISTED TERMINALS. Autozone/Cheapest at Walmart/HF are not UL listed. -ONLY USE UL listed WIRE. This is very important.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2012 01:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 22:07 |
|
|
Ferrules and terminal strips are where it's at. None of those goofy screw down terminals either, good ol' fashioned spring loaded friction grip type. Honestly, if room wasn't an issue I would love for my whole car's electrical to be done with cable trays and terminal strips. So pretty in control cabinets...  Like Lord Gaga was saying, spend the money on your connectors and odds are the tool will be the least of your concern.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2012 01:58
|
|
