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General_Failure posted:gently caress tyre shops that use rattleguns. There's nothing wrong with a rattlegun. In fact, it's the best way to do it. The problem is not using something appropriate to limit torque like a torque stick.
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Dec 20, 2012 00:43
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Store clearout on damaged package cordless impacts for 50 bucks? I'll take 3. Tested one out, powerful enough to break my rusty wheel nuts off.
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Dec 20, 2012 01:45
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Motronic posted:There's nothing wrong with a rattlegun. In fact, it's the best way to do it. Torque to yield wheel hubs. The place I go to now he may use a rattlegun to spin them on but he uses a beam torque wrench and the correct pattern to finish the job. I approve.
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Dec 20, 2012 02:01
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General_Failure posted:Torque to yield wheel hubs. I don't think you understand how torque sticks work. It's the same thing as a beam torque wrench with slightly sloppier tolerances (which are totally acceptable for the torque values and application we're talking about here). You still need to use a proper pattern, which means not being a moron at a tire shop who's boss said to use torque sticks so they do and don't know anything more than that.
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Dec 20, 2012 02:05
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General_Failure posted:It's a good idea. A lot of my things are bent from too much torque. I think I threw out most of my pile of shame to get rid of clutter. Even sheared the sockets off a couple of wheel crossbar spanner things undoing wheel nuts. Now I just use an impact socket, a 1/2 bar and the handle for the trolley jack, and if that doesn't give enough leverage a big bit of hardwood lashed to the jack handle. I have a ten footer of black iron pipe for these situations. Fits over breaker bars and 4-way lug wrenches.  It'll break 14mm ISO PC 12.9 suspension bolts.  Figure a 200lb dude leaning on it, the most you should really need is around 5 feet, past that point you are almost certainly going to break a 1/2" extension bar unless it's really good quality. e: and the best part is, 10 feet will run you less than $35. That's what 10 feet of 2" diameter costs, and if you're using 2" diameter iron pipe as a cheater bar, you should be in a WWF arena and paying someone else to work on your cars, holy poo poo. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Dec 20, 2012 |
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Dec 20, 2012 02:12
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Motronic posted:I don't think you understand how torque sticks work. It's the same thing as a beam torque wrench with slightly sloppier tolerances (which are totally acceptable for the torque values and application we're talking about here). You still need to use a proper pattern, which means not being a moron at a tire shop who's boss said to use torque sticks so they do and don't know anything more than that. In defense of every tire guy ive ever known, they know about using the correct pattern. The boss tells you that part too. TTY outside of cylinder heads is a pretty new thing? I just looked it up and apparently GM is putting it on their newer brake caliper bolts. Thats going to be a pain in the rear end!
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Dec 20, 2012 05:00
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Raw_Beef posted:In defense of every tire guy ive ever known, they know about using the correct pattern. The boss tells you that part too. I was joking about the hubs. But TTY on caliper bolts is a bad idea. It may cut own on manufacture costs or required skill but most people out there who do their own brakes probably wouldn't even consider the possibility that their caliper bolts need replacing. Also I've seen people just work their way around tightening  I have never ever seen a torque stick. I don't even know if they are a thing here. It's like cutoff wheels for a die grinder. I absolutely cannot find anyone that even knows they exist. kastein I won't ask what you use as a cheater bar because you said, but those hollow thic wall tube fence posts do make acceptable cheater bars in a pinch. I don't have the figures on me but the rear hub nuts on my VW are something like 250ft/lb and always seem to be an order of magnitude more when trying to undo them.
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Dec 20, 2012 05:45
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General_Failure posted:I have never ever seen a torque stick.  Grab the right color for the application (manufacturer recommended wheel lug torque spec chart in the lid of the box).
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Dec 20, 2012 14:46
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Torque sticks are all well and good, but they still don't stop the chucklefucks from crossthreading your god damned hub because they forgot to put the hub rings back in, stripping out both rear hubs. Ask me how I know.
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Dec 20, 2012 15:45
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veedubfreak posted:Torque sticks are all well and good, but they still don't stop the chucklefucks from crossthreading your god damned hub because they forgot to put the hub rings back in, stripping out both rear hubs. Ask me how I know. Well....yeah. No amount or type of tools can fix lazy or stupid.
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Dec 20, 2012 15:54
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Motronic posted:Well....yeah. No amount or type of tools can fix lazy or stupid. And there's a whole lot of lazy and stupid out there. I've had to replace 3 wheel studs on my 2002 WRX over the past 11 years and the only time someone other than me has the wheels off the car is during the yearly inspection. I can tell you I'm not the one cross threading my lug nuts on.
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Dec 20, 2012 19:58
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The good thing about when Discount tire fucks up your hubs, they pay to have them replaced  Although this still costs me time to sit at brakes plus to watch those monkeys replace poo poo that should have never been damaged.
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Dec 20, 2012 20:03
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I do find it odd that my supposedly 200 ft-lb impact wrench is unable to drive a 100lb torque stick past 70lbs or so of actual torque. I'm thinking this may be a case where air tools are definitely better. It at least prevents overtightening, though, and is easy enough to torque down with a click wrench.
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Dec 20, 2012 22:26
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grover posted:I do find it odd that my supposedly 200 ft-lb impact wrench is unable to drive a 100lb torque stick past 70lbs or so of actual torque. I'm thinking this may be a case where air tools are definitely better. It at least prevents overtightening, though, and is easy enough to torque down with a click wrench. I like to use a stick rated 20 lbs under the torque spec then tighten it with a click wrench. Still if youre using a 100 stick and getting 70, something is wrong.
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Dec 20, 2012 23:56
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grover posted:I do find it odd that my supposedly 200 ft-lb impact wrench is unable to drive a 100lb torque stick past 70lbs or so of actual torque. I'm thinking this may be a case where air tools are definitely better. It at least prevents overtightening, though, and is easy enough to torque down with a click wrench. They are designed to be used with a 1/2 impact that delivers about 375-400 ft/lbs of torque. When used this way they are supposed to be +/- 4%. I don't know if mine are that close to dead on, but I can tell you that they are pretty close as confirmed by my torque wrench. I don't recall whether "air" was mentioned in those requirements, but I doubt it. You just need a whole lot more torque than you normally would because the torque sticks are quite mechanically inefficient.
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Dec 21, 2012 00:55
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What I know about torque sticks: Use the blue one.
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Dec 21, 2012 21:13
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daslog posted:What I know about torque sticks: Use the blue one. What happens if you take the red stick? You get to see how deep your budget for re-studding hub assemblies really goes? (Yes, I know the red one is lower torque than the blue. "How deep the rabbit hole goes (when your lug nuts fall into one at the side of the road) sounded even stupider.) InitialDave fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Dec 21, 2012 |
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Dec 21, 2012 21:36
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InitialDave posted:Do you wake up on top of your roller chest under a blanket of shop towels, believing whatever you want to believe? I don't own any torque sticks. I know that it's the blue one because that's what all the techs at the Subaru dealership use.
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Dec 22, 2012 01:41
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daslog posted:I don't own any torque sticks. I know that it's the blue one because that's what all the techs at the Subaru dealership use. Have you ever seen this old movie called "the matrix?" 
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Dec 22, 2012 03:26
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Raw_Beef posted:Have you ever seen this old movie called "the matrix?" Oops missed the Matrix joke.
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Dec 22, 2012 04:25
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 just bought some new matco tools. I have to say the 88tooth 1/4" ratchet is amazing.
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Dec 22, 2012 05:45
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:
Is that a 1/4" UJ? I want one! Even though it's only for this one job where there's a hose clamp I need to tighten which I can't otherwise do without removing the fuel tank and gently caress that.
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Dec 23, 2012 01:04
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General_Failure posted:Is that a 1/4" UJ? I want one! Even though it's only for this one job where there's a hose clamp I need to tighten which I can't otherwise do without removing the fuel tank and gently caress that.  A set like this is the best solution. Obviously its more stuff to buy and throw in the ever getting heavier tool box. I do find that the design of the joint in the type pictured gives a better range of motion and torque before locking or kicking out and off the fastener. Also a huge bonus that you never accidentally separate the socket from the joint and lose it somewhere. Old rubber fuel lines with hose clamps can be a bitch on tanks mounted too close to the body to get in and tighten the lines. Last time i had to do it was on this old RV with 2 fuel pumps, like 7 hoses, each one decided to fail as i repaired the ones next to it. I love the smell of gasoline fumes in the morning.
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Dec 23, 2012 04:29
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Raw_Beef posted:
I never knew those things existed. This is actually a hose clamp that goes on around the screw on lid thing on the fuel tank. There's an access panel in the boot to get to it from above. I've put the hose clamp on where it should be but because the panel hole is only slightly larger in diameter than the lid and of course the tank is lower than the panel cutout it's physically impossible to tighten it. What gets me is I'm pretty sure this is a factory setup but it makes absolutely no sense.
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Dec 23, 2012 05:13
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You can buy super cheap U-Joint type wobble sockets at HF or Northern tool. Before HF had them I bought some northern tool ones and at least one of them had one of the ujoint pins fall out. The thing is presses in and its a really bad and stupid design because they dont have the process control to actually make them a reliable press fit. Either way a set of like 6 metric ones was $10 in like 2005 and theyve been useful many many many $ more than what they cost.
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Dec 23, 2012 15:51
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Protip: Tape on a u-joint extension will limit it's movement and allow you to direct your torque easier.
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Dec 24, 2012 00:20
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I hate ujoints, I try to use wobble extensions as much as possible. They don't work for everything, but are amazing for stuff like BMW transmission removal where you need some flex but also need to put a boatload of torque on a fastener. I've used a ujoint exactly once, and it was to get at a transfer case bolt on my old e30 from inside the car, through the shifter hole.
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Dec 24, 2012 00:47
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revmoo posted:Protip: Tape on a u-joint extension will limit it's movement and allow you to direct your torque easier. This. And IIRC they may still make the rubber slide-over smocks as well... Searching.
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Dec 24, 2012 04:09
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A 3 foot long behemoth of every wobble extension in my box helped me change my Jeep's crank position sensor without lowering the transmission.
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Dec 24, 2012 06:09
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Crustashio posted:I hate ujoints, I try to use wobble extensions as much as possible. These own though the undercut is a stress concentration point both in diameter and sharp cusps so crappy ones shear at rather low torque/impact values relative to what you can put on a typical 3/8 hardened Cr-V extension. If you buy a cheap one, buy two.
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Dec 24, 2012 06:29
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My cars tires need air and I'm don't feel like paying at a gas station or finding the one Shell with a working free air station. Those 12V inflaters are terrible too. I'm looking for a small air compressor to fill tires and blow out my computer, engine, etc. Is there any reason I shouldn't get the 1/3HP 3 gallon compressor at Harbor Freight? I'm sure I have a $39.99 coupon here somewhere for one.
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Dec 30, 2012 02:48
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Blackdawgg posted:My cars tires need air and I'm don't feel like paying at a gas station or finding the one Shell with a working free air station. Those 12V inflaters are terrible too. Just a warning! Air tools are addicting.
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Dec 30, 2012 02:57
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There are places where you have to pay to use the compressor? gently caress those guys. I usually do the tyres at least weekly with a compressor I have more or less dedicated to them. Doesn't need to be much for that job. Plus another added bonus is your results will be consistent. Service station tyre inflators gauges are out to poo poo and you never know how much you are putting in, unless you carry your own gauge that is. With a home setup even if it is wrong it's consistent at least. It's shouldn't be far off anyway.
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Dec 30, 2012 03:20
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General_Failure posted:There are places where you have to pay to use the compressor? gently caress those guys. Around me its the rule, all but two chains charge to use their compressor. On the upside, the two that don't have the automatic "set desired pressure, unit pumps air until it reaches the desired pressure and then stops/beeps at you" style pumps. As if gas stations aren't making enough money...I'm surprised nobody has come up with a coin operated windshield squeegee setup yet.
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Dec 30, 2012 03:31
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Geoj posted:Around me its the rule, all but two chains charge to use their compressor. On the upside, the two that don't have the automatic "set desired pressure, unit pumps air until it reaches the desired pressure and then stops/beeps at you" style pumps. As if gas stations aren't making enough money...I'm surprised nobody has come up with a coin operated windshield squeegee setup yet. I know those machines. When those things malfunction you know about it. Yeah, I don't even like using the squeegees for free. torn up and chunks out of them, sitting in a bucket of rancid slop. No thanks. Occasionally a place will give half a poo poo though. I almost used the one at the service station near my house recently. The smell repelled me. Something about the town water here is if it sits for more than a few hours it starts to stink. More than a day and black slime starts to grow. People with better noses than mine have told me it's pretty heavily chlorinated too.
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Dec 30, 2012 03:36
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daslog posted:Just a warning! Air tools are addicting. I plan on getting something more serious whenever I buy a house. I thought about the 2HP model from Harbor Freight but since it's oiled I can't use it to blow out my computer. It's not really big enough to power any air tools I don't see the reason to spend $100
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Dec 30, 2012 04:10
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Blackdawgg posted:but since it's oiled I can't use it to blow out my computer. Why? It's not like the oil is free roaming with the air. It's more like a 4 stroke motor in oil / air separation terms. Sure it's possible some particles can theoretically get through and that means a really bad day for someone using it to spray a car, but I've never had an issue. I use the compressors to pump up tyres, blow up balloons (using your lungs is for scrubs), cleaning out electronics / computers and whatever other misuses I may or may not admit to including but not limited to a DIY pressure filler for the transmission on the VW. The pumps were sold out. Had to do something.
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Dec 30, 2012 04:33
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Which is a better option; an inflator attachment with built in gauge or a separate tire gauge and inflation chuck?
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Dec 30, 2012 06:21
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tim0mit posted:Which is a better option; an inflator attachment with built in gauge or a separate tire gauge and inflation chuck? Whatever floats your boat. I like the ones with the builtin gauge personally because it's easy.
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Dec 30, 2012 06:25
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Built-in gauge, as long as it comes with a chuck that locks onto the valvestem. Then instead of switching out between mashing the tire chuck or the pressure gauge onto the valvestem, you lock it on once and play with a trigger to inflate / deflate as needed.
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Dec 30, 2012 06:27
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