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Tool tip for cheap tool havers: six hex bit sockets from HF fit perfectly in an Altoids tin and you never have to use the lovely plastic rail that they ship on again.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 00:00 |
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# ? Apr 18, 2024 02:57 |
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Uthor posted:Tool tip for cheap tool havers: six hex bit sockets from HF fit perfectly in an Altoids tin and you never have to use the lovely plastic rail that they ship on again. Nice. Their carriers/packaging alone is half the reason I try to spring for Tekton these days. Still eyeing up their RO polisher to make waxing a little more exciting, so don’t worry about my allegiance.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 00:11 |
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Uthor posted:Tool tip for cheap tool havers: six hex bit sockets from HF fit perfectly in an Altoids tin and you never have to use the lovely plastic rail that they ship on again. Tap/Die brand recommendations? I think it's finally time for me to start having some, and I seem to recall somebody saying buying good ones in smaller sets makes more sense than the harbor freight 96 piece kit or whatever. I'm comfortable buying some decent ones, and I'd rather have ones that work repeatedly than cheap, but if HF is good then I'm also ok with that. Specifically I believe rethreading/chasing threads on an M6x1.0 bolt is in my near future.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 00:11 |
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I asked somewhat recently and everybody said buy the ones you need individually. I have hf ones (what I was looking to upgrade) and they're awful. Not recommended.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 00:15 |
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Motronic posted:I really need to get some of those demodrivers. Rather than continuing to use regular screwdrivers to do a lot of the same anyway. wera has their own line of them too, they come with yellow handles. but they dont have the same laser tips that the green ones do.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 00:27 |
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nitsuga posted:Nice. Their carriers/packaging alone is half the reason I try to spring for Tekton these days. Still eyeing up their RO polisher to make waxing a little more exciting, so don’t worry about my allegiance. I wouldn't recommend them as I've broken my fair share, but they were nice to keep in my desk drawer at work and were a cheap backup to my Capri ones (I've broken those, too, and would go with Tekton or Gearwrench if I were to buy another "nice" set). Since we did 99% socket head screws at work, I liked having at least three options for turning a screw during customer visits.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 00:37 |
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Suburban Dad posted:I asked somewhat recently and everybody said buy the ones you need individually. Looks like buy 'em as you need, make sure they're HSS, and from there on out, "how much money do you want to spend?" I might look into the ebay route, I've had good luck there.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 00:37 |
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Krakkles posted:I like that, but I think I'd need like 15 tins for my collection of bits at this point lol. If you just want to chase/clean/repair threads, the gearwrench stuff I have seems pretty good. If you want to take a stainless steel rod and cut new threads, you may need someone beefier, or so I've been told, I think by sharkytm.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 01:04 |
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um excuse me posted:If you just want to chase/clean/repair threads, the gearwrench stuff I have seems pretty good. If you want to take a stainless steel rod and cut new threads, you may need someone beefier, or so I've been told, I think by sharkytm. Chases are actually different than taps. Not that many people outside of machine shops know that or have chases.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 01:15 |
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Oh neat, they look like go/no go thread gages
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 01:47 |
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Motronic posted:Chases are actually different than taps. Not that many people outside of machine shops know that or have chases. Dies work ok for chasing auto/home stuff. The real pros spend 4 hours with thread and jeweler's files because their employer won't buy them a set of chases. Anyways, for dies, Irwin is fine for softer stuff/chasing, and consistent enough, and available at your nearest big box. If you really want to buy once cry once spend the $35 (plus shipping) for a HSS die from McMaster.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 02:09 |
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As a man who has broken an approximate gently caress load of 4-40 and smaller taps: HSS, made in USA is the minimum quality for tapping in aluminum or harder T handle wrenches are bad, you want the shortest lever are possible. Don’t under drill pipe threads or youll end up making the nice pretty ER resident cry when she’s stitching up your hand because the lidocaine didn’t quite take and you used an adjustable wrench to install a pipe fitting in an under drilled hole and it slipped off
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 02:21 |
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I like Irwin and Vermont American for taps and dies. I should take a pic of my full collection at some point, between the many taps I've had to buy new for projects and the others I've bought used (used-tools.com is a block from the nearest HF to me and the random tap bin is crazy good priced there) I've got like 3 or 4 boxes filled about this full: I'm missing a few sizes and thread pitches still...
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 02:58 |
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Elviscat posted:If you really want to buy once cry once spend the $35 (plus shipping) for a HSS die from McMaster. Threading Dies, 19 Pieces https://www.mcmaster.com/2646A14 It’s only like $10/ea!
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 03:28 |
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Speaking of McMaster, there was talk about nitrile gloves. I tried to get some from them today and everything was either "limited supply, no guarantee we can fulfill the order" or had a shipping date 26 weeks out. The PVC gloves were also low stock. The only box of 100 I found in stock was $30. I did buy a bunch of random saw blades and got them half off with Mom's discount! I should have been getting consumables from them a lot sooner.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 04:06 |
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Uthor posted:Speaking of McMaster, there was talk about nitrile gloves. I tried to get some from them today and everything was either "limited supply, no guarantee we can fulfill the order" or had a shipping date 26 weeks out. Your mom gets a McMaster discount? Is she adopting? McMaster is overpriced, but you get great quality, excellent customer service, fast shipping, and guaranteed availability. MSC, eBay, or industrial sales shops are the place for taps and dies. Or course, I buy from McMaster too...
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 06:02 |
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sharkytm posted:Your mom gets a McMaster discount? Is she adopting? I bought something there just because of the reliable information, dims etc. Way more than I anticipated spending but worth it to buy the exact right thing on the first try.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 06:47 |
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Krakkles posted:It looks like McMaster has a set for not insane money (especially vs that $35/ea) - how’s that? That's gonna be an awesome T&D set for the money, MC is going to charge you $$ for it, and $ for shipping, without specifying shipping cost. But it'll still save you $ vs the poor quality sets in the long run. I wasn't sold until I had to drill tons of holes in metal, and I ordered $40 worth of HSS bits, and $4 of that smashed holes through everything I asked of it without breaking an edge.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 06:51 |
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Krakkles posted:I like that, but I think I'd need like 15 tins for my collection of bits at this point lol. Then you need another tool/hobby, a 3d printer! Make your own! Any size! Any colour!
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 11:34 |
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I’m probably going to be laughed out of this thread for my terrible opinions or recommending craftsman of all things... but... For chasing and thread repair sets, the 48 piece craftsman kit is actually pretty drat good. It’s made by Lang Tools in Wisconsin. The snapon kit is(was) rebranded Lang as well. Looks like an iteration of it is still for sale under Lang, though it looks like the black Karstar version is now made in china. For Tap and Die stuff, I like the gearwrench set I bought. I go slow, use tap magic oil, and it’s been good to me. If you can take your time, garage sales and estate sales can yield some gold... a few years ago I picked up a lifetime’s collection of old HSS US made taps and dies from a guy selling his wodworking shop and tools to move. I think the stuff was marked OTD, Lidell, Hanson Whitney, R&N, and some others. Could all be meh relatively speaking, but it’s worked very well for me so far in my occasional use.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 15:02 |
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StormDrain posted:I bought something there just because of the reliable information, dims etc. Way more than I anticipated spending but worth it to buy the exact right thing on the first try. Oh, don't get me wrong. I love McMaster. I've spent in excess of $25k there in the past 5 years. Their CAD drawings and files are a huge resource for everyone, and I think their pricing is totally justified. It's just once you have the part you needed, you can probably find it for less. For example: titanium hose clamps. McMaster buys them from Titan marine and marks them up like 50%. If you know it's the right part, you can just order from Titan and save some money. Titanium bolts, 1/4-20 x1". $6.86 each from McMaster, about $4.25 each from Allied Titanium. The McMaster bolts are RoHS, REACH, and DFARS certified, the Allied bolts aren't. Tooling is tough. If you're a home-gamer and don't have an MSC discount, McMaster isn't a bad idea. I miss ENCO for that stuff. I buy a lot of tooling from eBay, but if I need a 4-40 bottoming tap in a hurry, it's McMaster all day.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 15:08 |
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sharkytm posted:Oh, don't get me wrong. I love McMaster. I've spent in excess of $25k there in the past 5 years. Their CAD drawings and files are a huge resource for everyone, and I think their pricing is totally justified. It's just once you have the part you needed, you can probably find it for less. For example: titanium hose clamps. McMaster buys them from Titan marine and marks them up like 50%. If you know it's the right part, you can just order from Titan and save some money. Titanium bolts, 1/4-20 x1". $6.86 each from McMaster, about $4.25 each from Allied Titanium. The McMaster bolts are RoHS, REACH, and DFARS certified, the Allied bolts aren't. For hardware, I'm surprised you aren't going directly to boltdepot, since they're practically local to you. Even out in central I get my orders next day from them. I've found the same thing with McMaster. Back in the day I needed to spec some tapered bearings for a project at work and bought them on McMaster. They came to like 65 dollars a set or something crazy like that. When they showed up I said wait a minute, these are just timken taper bearings. Looked the part numbers on the box up on rockauto and got the next few sets for like 13 a set, they were used as wheel bearings on a ton of 60s Chevies it turned out. My boss was cross I was ordering car parts on the company credit card until I explained what was going on
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 16:02 |
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Yeah, the advantage is the gorgeous catalog and astonishingly fast shipping. I get things same-day on a regular basis here. They can turn out to be price-competitive sometimes but it's definitely not often. I convenience-buy from them a lot just because it's so easy.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 16:37 |
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kastein posted:For hardware, I'm surprised you aren't going directly to boltdepot, since they're practically local to you. Even out in central I get my orders next day from them. I use bolt depot for big orders. If I just need a couple boxes of stuff (and critically other things non-bolt related), McMaster is better. Bolt Depot is great if you need bulk, but aren't particularly price competitive on small quantities. Plus bolt depot doesn't carry some of what I need (spring detent pins, spacers, etc) I get next-day shipping for short money, and the customer service is amazing. For example, I ordered a 12" piece of 1x3x.25 316SS angle. It showed up with massive distortion and was clearly the end of a mill pour, as the piece thinned out over the last 5-6". One chat with McMaster customer service, and I had another piece the next day. No muss, no fuss. Same with some precision-ground SS rod. They didn't protect it and it showed up dinged up on the edges. One chat later, new piece in the mail. No return shipping, no bullshit. Hypnolobster posted:Yeah, the advantage is the gorgeous catalog and astonishingly fast shipping. I get things same-day on a regular basis here.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 18:25 |
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I will gladly pay the McMaster tax on things that I need quickly, and for something that I know is exactly what is pictured and described. Especially things like fasteners, taps, and drill bits. Sure I could hunt around locally trying to find them, but by the time I drive 20-30 minutes to get it, I might as well just let McMaster deliver it the next day.
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# ? Oct 24, 2020 19:30 |
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Today we will see how long a ryobi 18v drill can power a drill pump as I empty the hot tub out. I already killed the shop vac using it to empty it. Yes I should get a pump but can't get out to hazard fraught to buy one right now.
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# ? Oct 27, 2020 18:05 |
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Get a hose siphon going to get most of it?
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# ? Oct 27, 2020 18:09 |
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angryrobots posted:Get a hose siphon going to get most of it? I got most of it, just getting the last of the water from the seats and down in the foot area. The answer to the question was 4 minutes 18 seconds.
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# ? Oct 27, 2020 18:18 |
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Before the battery gave out, the drill gave out or you ran out of water?
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# ? Oct 27, 2020 21:36 |
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Battery ran out.
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# ? Oct 27, 2020 21:54 |
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Is there some reason a garden hose as a siphon wouldn't work? Did you just really want to kill a Shop Vac?
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# ? Oct 28, 2020 00:10 |
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I actually have a shop vac question related to this! I bought my folks one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Hose-to-Drain-Adapter-Vacuum-Part-for-Most-Wet-Dry-Shop-Vacuums-VT2519/202441732 But when I went to use it to drain their fish pond, the tank filled up, but nothing came out of the garden hose. Caveat: I was using one of those expandable "As Seen on TV" hoses. Once I popped the hose off, water drained through the adapter just fine. My sis was using the same vac with the same adapter to drain her swimming pool and the same thing happened. Tank filled up, nothing coming out of the garden hose. What's the deal?
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# ? Oct 28, 2020 00:32 |
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Uthor posted:I actually have a shop vac question related to this! I bought my folks one of these: Well they're junk. Since it's so obviously the wrong tool for the job it can't handle any head pressure on the hose. So your collapsible hose is right out, and her hose was probably going upslope. Or even the slightest bit clogged or kinked. Those are little more than gravity drains out of the bucket of the shop vac you are running at 300% duty cycle to do a job it's not meant to do. All of you trying to do these things with drill pumps and shop vacs should go buy a suitable electric submersible or, if you do this a lot or need to do it faster, an actual electric or gas trash pump.
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# ? Oct 28, 2020 00:40 |
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I'm flashing back to the time at my first job where the drains under the soda fountains clogged up and they didn't get a plumber out for way, way, way too long. We had to shop-vac out the drains when they'd start flooding the floor. I can't remember how many weeks it went on but I will never forget that smell.
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# ? Oct 28, 2020 00:49 |
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Uthor posted:I actually have a shop vac question related to this! I bought my folks one of these: It's just using gravity and you don't have enough gravity for the water to flow out, or your hose is uphill, or you still have the shop vac running and it's sucking all the water in constantly. I had some water drainage issues and bought the cheapest utility pump available at Ace and honestly it's amazing how well it works. Just left it running in an area that was flooded for a couple days and it just kept trucking.
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# ? Oct 28, 2020 01:59 |
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So, why in the hell don't hot tubs have drains in them anyhow? It doesn't seem like a huge deal to implement.
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# ? Oct 28, 2020 04:50 |
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Point of failure?
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# ? Oct 28, 2020 04:52 |
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I think that's a fair assumption, In the scheme of hot tubs, that would have to literally be the least likely point of failure. They are chock full of holes and fittings. A simple drain bib, even with a tightening ring on the backside, seems like it would be easy to implement compared to all sorts of jets, pumps and lights and poo poo.
slidebite fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Oct 28, 2020 |
# ? Oct 28, 2020 04:55 |
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I think because a siphon works so well for it honestly. A drain would just be a place for sediment to collect and funk to grow in. And yeah it can be designed not to but there has to be a good reason. Like a slow leak could kill the pump if the level runs low enough. Edit: I really am from the internet. I know nothing about hot tubs why am I pontificating on how they're designed? StormDrain fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Oct 28, 2020 |
# ? Oct 28, 2020 05:02 |
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# ? Apr 18, 2024 02:57 |
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It would also add $0.60 to the cost of manufacturing and how you drain it isn't their problem
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# ? Oct 28, 2020 07:03 |