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Coasterphreak posted:I've been looking into getting some tools of my own, so that I don't have to keep borrowing my father's. Does anybody have recommendations on a good starter metric set of crescent/socket wrenches that falls somewhere between the bottom shelf at Harbor Freight and Snap On in price? Check your local Craigslist listings. Periodically you'll find people selling their tools, and often there are guys selling big sets of Snap On tools.
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Apr 5, 2010 20:17
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oxbrain posted:The auto parts stores around here carry tools that are slightly above HF quality, but 2-3x the price. My expereince has been different. They're 2-3x more expensive and crap. The oil filter sockets from Autozone are far far worse than HF quality and the R134a puncture adapter from advanced is below it too. The electrical connectors are about the same but cost way more and in fact youd save so much on a pack of 50 at one vs the other you could buy HFs ratcheting RBY crimp tool Craigslist and garage sales are the cheapest way to buy quality or midrange tools by far. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Apr 5, 2010 |
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Apr 5, 2010 20:40
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Splizwarf posted:I dunno what the return policy on Kobolt, Husky, Stanley, and DeWalt is but they're comparable for quality AFAIK. I've been sold on Kobalt for a while now as a replacement for Craftsman. I haven't tried out the warranty yet (nothing broken) but all the packaging says Hassle Free Replacement and apparently Lowes will replace anything anyway. I have heard of people getting broken Stanley stuff replaced there.
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Apr 5, 2010 23:11
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MetaJew posted:Right, lifting from the pumpkin is perfectly fine. But putting stands under the pumpkin or the half shafts sounds like an easy way to ruin your day. My favorite jacks and jack stands are US Jack. They're not widely availble in retail though. http://www.usjack.com/ I buy mine through: http://www.jackxchange.com/ http://www.jackxchange.com/products/D-41608.cfm The US Jack Jackstands are bitchin, extra nice, extra welds around the perimeter, nice thick steel, and a double prawl design to lock the supports in place.
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Apr 5, 2010 23:50
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http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa...45&keycode=0000 Engine hoist: $100
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Apr 6, 2010 03:18
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RealKyleH posted:http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa...45&keycode=0000 I got the Hoist on Black friday for under $90. I do want that leveler though.
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Apr 6, 2010 03:23
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:I've been sold on Kobalt for a while now as a replacement for Craftsman. I haven't tried out the warranty yet (nothing broken) but all the packaging says Hassle Free Replacement and apparently Lowes will replace anything anyway. I have heard of people getting broken Stanley stuff replaced there. Seconding this. I bought a Kobalt 1/2" drive ratchet and a 1/4" drive ratchet on clearance a couple of years ago. They are now my favorite ratchets over the Craftsman ratchets. I broke both my Husky 15mm chrome sockets (they may or may not have been in an impact gun at the time) so soon I will be venturing to Home Depot to see about that lifetime warranty.
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Apr 6, 2010 05:37
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Landshark posted:I bought a Kobalt 1/2" drive ratchet and a 1/4" drive ratchet on clearance a couple of years ago. They are now my favorite ratchets over the Craftsman ratchets. The trouble for me is those round handles. I like corners on my handles, round handles are a lot harder to beat with a sledge.
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Apr 6, 2010 19:22
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Splizwarf posted:The trouble for me is those round handles. I like corners on my handles, round handles are a lot harder to beat with a sledge. You shouldn't be beating a ratchet with a sledge under any circumstances. Get the right tool for the job.
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Apr 6, 2010 20:17
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Yeah never hammer a ratchet. Sometimes a wrench if the situation requires an impact and you don't have one or you can't fit it.
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Apr 6, 2010 20:25
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Splizwarf posted:The trouble for me is those round handles. I like corners on my handles, round handles are a lot harder to beat with a sledge. http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=breaker+bar&Submit=Go
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Apr 6, 2010 20:45
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ab0z posted:Yeah never hammer a ratchet. Sometimes a wrench if the situation requires an impact and you don't have one or you can't fit it. I...I love your new custom title. RADL would make an excellent AI gang tag.
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Apr 6, 2010 20:46
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Rhyno posted:I...I love your new custom title. I like it better than his previous one, that's for sure.
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Apr 6, 2010 20:51
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laymil posted:You shouldn't be beating a ratchet with a sledge under any circumstances. Get the right tool for the job. Exactly. Hitting hardened steel with hardened steel can chip or shatter your tools. It also wastes a lot of the striking force in the rebound. This is what you should be hitting your ratchet with. http://www.amazon.com/Cook-Hammer-Company-Hammers-117/dp/B000V7QZEW
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Apr 6, 2010 21:03
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oxbrain posted:Exactly. Hitting hardened steel with hardened steel can chip or shatter your tools. It also wastes a lot of the striking force in the rebound. Hopefully you're joking. Get a breaker bar and hit that. You can easily break your ratchet gear or pawl. The similar ratchet and pawl setups Ive seen are 45+ rockwell with many of them well over that. They will break.
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Apr 6, 2010 21:54
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laymil posted:You shouldn't be beating a ratchet with a sledge under any circumstances. Get the right tool for the job. Haha, this is a troll, right? The point of Craftsman tools is you make them the right tool for the job.  Everyone posted:If I had ratchets with no lifetime guarantee I wouldn't be beating on them. Also, I'd still make sure I had some I could beat on. Sometimes, a hammer and a ratchet go places that a wrench, a breaker bar, and an impact gun just can't go. Maybe if I had a wrench that I could mount deepwall sockets on, that turned... hmm. Oxbrain, I'm scared of the Poison Hammer. Most common poisons just make you sick or kill you, lead makes you stupid. I'll probably still buy one eventually, though, because it's loving badass. And probably recast it right away with the Mr. Yuck face on the side. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Apr 6, 2010 |
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Apr 6, 2010 22:29
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Splizwarf posted:If I had ratchets with no lifetime guarantee I wouldn't be beating on them. Also, I'd still make sure I had some I could beat on. Sometimes, a hammer and a ratchet go places that a wrench, a breaker bar, and an impact gun just can't go. Maybe if I had a wrench that I could mount deepwall sockets on, that turned... hmm. Maybe I've just been lucky, but I've only had one fail, and it was one a friend of mine found in the trunk of a junked car, and already broken when I got it. I unfortunately didn't realize it until my car was on the lift, oil drained, filter off... and only then discovered the ratchet was unable to tighten. So, moral of the story is to always carry a spare? grover fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Apr 6, 2010 |
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Apr 6, 2010 22:38
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The lead hammer deforms on impact. For the same overall impact force the peak force might be 10-20x lower. The only way a lead hammer will break the ratchet is by simple overloading, which you're very unlikely to manage with a 5.5 lb hammer. Breaker bars flex too much and can't fit into as tight of areas. Splizwarf posted:Oxbrain, I'm scared of the Poison Hammer. Most common poisons just make you sick or kill you, lead makes you stupid. I'll probably still buy one eventually, though, because it's loving badass. And probably recast it right away with the Mr. Yuck face on the side. Of all the things you'll be getting on your hands while working on cars, a tiny amount of lead residue is the least of your worries. Wear gloves, wash up before eating. oxbrain fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Apr 6, 2010 |
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Apr 6, 2010 22:52
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The lead hammer is a framing problem, not a practical one. I know it's not dangerous, but... Sort of like how liquid Teflon is poisonous as gently caress but biologically inert when it's solid so when that non-stick pan coating comes off in your eggs it's fine to eat, right? gently caress that, I'll stick with the Revereware (stainless w/ copper-clad bottom).
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Apr 6, 2010 23:09
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A lead mallet? What do you have against a deadblow? I have one that is at least 10 years old, so I know they last if you don't hit pointy poo poo with them.
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Apr 6, 2010 23:15
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Kynetx posted:A lead mallet? What do you have against a deadblow? I have one that is at least 10 years old, so I know they last if you don't hit pointy poo poo with them. Depends what you're going to be hitting. Damaging the hammer is less a concern than damaging the object you're hitting. Deadblow hammers would be devastating to old-school knock off spinners, for example...those cars came with lead hammers for just that reason.
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Apr 6, 2010 23:33
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I'm trying to figure this out. Explain it to me please.
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Apr 6, 2010 23:44
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Kynetx posted:I'm trying to figure this out. Explain it to me please. Hitting a chromed surface with a hardened hammer will damage the finish on an antique item that's virtually irreplaceable...and even in the 60s when it could replaced, a new one cost a couple hundred bucks. Edit: Here's some diagrams and whatnot for modern replacements for Sting Ray knock-offs.
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Apr 6, 2010 23:57
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Godholio posted:Hitting a chromed surface with a hardened hammer Who's doing that? This is what most people would call a dead blow hammer
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Apr 7, 2010 00:03
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Lowclock posted:Who's doing that? This is what most people would call a dead blow hammer Ah, touche. Not really sure what I was thinking. But some people are stupid and use normal tools, and some people pay money to be in clubs that glorify using 40+ year old tools and parts. Some of us buy fake knock-offs so we don't have to deal with it and don't have to worry about the wheel flying off and taking a fender with it in case the spinner isn't tight enough.
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Apr 7, 2010 00:07
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I would imagine a dead-blow hammer like that can't quite put the same amount of force into a knockoff wheel like a lead hammer could - the nylon in the dead blow has a lot of give to it. I actually have a copper hammer from HF somewhere.
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Apr 7, 2010 01:51
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Raided Harbor Freight today and got my free tape measure, flashlight and screwdriver set. Also I picked up this for $40 (raincheck and 20% coupon).  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.
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Apr 7, 2010 02:02
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Kynetx posted:A lead mallet? What do you have against a deadblow? I have one that is at least 10 years old, so I know they last if you don't hit pointy poo poo with them. Shot filled hammers don't work well swinging upwards. My lead hammer is nearly 50 years old. When it gets too mushroomed from hitting pointy poo poo you recast it in a carved wooden block.
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Apr 7, 2010 03:29
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Commodore 64 posted:Raided Harbor Freight today and got my free tape measure, flashlight and screwdriver set. Planning on hosting a murder?
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Apr 7, 2010 14:49
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EVERYWHERE 
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Lead hammers also don't cause sparks, which is pretty useful in some environments (hitting slogging wrenches in piping work, for example).
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Apr 7, 2010 17:52
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Anyone use Harbor Freight's spring compressors before? Any opinions on them? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43753
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Apr 7, 2010 21:18
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I guess I have an irrational fear of lead as well, but I've got a couple soft copper mallets that work alright.
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Apr 7, 2010 21:33
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Have an air compressor question I'm hoping someone here can help out with. I have a 7-9 year old Craftsman "Professional" 25 gallon compressor. The regulator on this thing seems to be completely shot. Regardless what I set with the knob, the regulated side pretty much follows 1:1 with the tank pressure. I can't get the regulated pressure to be under the tank pressure at any point. So, what can I do with this? It's clearly out of warranty. Besides dragging it into Sears, can someone help me put together a set of items from McMaster-Carr that will work for me? This compressor is primarily used for mechanical air tools or nailers - no painting or sprayers.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. (Also, those jack stands kick rear end)
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Apr 7, 2010 21:37
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Just buy a generic replacement regulator from wherever's cheapest?
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Apr 7, 2010 22:06
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It doesn't look like it, but are there any wires leading from the regulator? If so, that's part of the control mechanism and you need to install a regulator downstream of it. If not, it's a simple swap job. McMaster part number: 4959K51 is the one to go with. You could save $10 and get 41735K11, but it flows worse and is only rated to 125psi. Don't use teflon tape, get some proper thread sealant. Bits of tape can come loose and jam in tools. http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80633-Thread-Sealant-PTFE/dp/B002QCBTA0/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1270674755&sr=8-18 Or do like InitialDave says, buy the $15 filter/regulator from HF and RTV that bastard on there. It'll work 99% as well, and won't leak if you don't gently caress with the filter drain too much.
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Apr 7, 2010 22:21
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Any recommendations for a aluminum service jack? That's serviceable? The 2 companies I buy shop jacks from doesn't have an aluminum model. I'm looking for something around a 3 ton capacity for desert racing, it seems to be a real toss up between buying and replacing cheap chinese jacks a few times a year or shell out $800-1400 for a high end jack. There's got to be something between Harbor Freight and Craftsman vs Pace and brunnhoelzl right?
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Apr 7, 2010 22:24
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oxbrain posted:It doesn't look like it, but are there any wires leading from the regulator? If so, that's part of the control mechanism and you need to install a regulator downstream of it. If not, it's a simple swap job. No wires to the regulator, the tank pressure sensor is in the switch itself, I think. Thanks for the part number, wasn't sure as there was no tank pressure gauge on those just the regulated air side. Suppose I could throw a T-junction and another pressure gauge in front of this to handle that part. Those larger regulator/lubrication combos look good, just don't have the room above this tank for something like that. Could build up some vertical height with some piping, but concerned that would put too much pressure on that joint with that much leverage. I have that same sealant here. Thanks to both of you.
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Apr 8, 2010 01:01
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BigKOfJustice posted:Any recommendations for a aluminum service jack? That's serviceable? The 2 companies I buy shop jacks from doesn't have an aluminum model. Get the Harbor Freight. I have this one and it's very well made and gets the job done. Then again I don't race in the desert. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40105
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Apr 8, 2010 01:30
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wav3form posted:Get the Harbor Freight. I have this one and it's very well made and gets the job done. Then again I don't race in the desert. Agreeing with this, light enough to carry around, easy enough to pump. I doubt youll be replacing a few per year.
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Apr 8, 2010 03:04
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wav3form posted:Get the Harbor Freight. I have this one and it's very well made and gets the job done. Then again I don't race in the desert. The handle hex end is rounding off on mine. It barely rotates left and right now on the jack.
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Apr 8, 2010 03:06
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