|
ExplodingSims posted:Sup Orlando buddy. That dog isn't worth $100. It's too small.  e: new page, added photo Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Dec 5, 2010 |
#
?
Dec 5, 2010 23:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 19:38 |
|
|
Gorilla Salad posted:It's almost impossible to find where I live and, because it's classified as toxic, it was stupidly expensive to have shipped. You need to either move, or take over the local government.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2010 23:23
|
|
|
A bit of a shameless bump, but I'm trying to set up a meeting with both sellers of those welders, and I need to know which would be the better deal?
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2010 20:10
|
|
|
ExplodingSims posted:A bit of a shameless bump, but I'm trying to set up a meeting with both sellers of those welders, and I need to know which would be the better deal? What is a set of regulators and a tank cost where you live? Fluxcore will work but it sucks because you have to clean the flux off all the welds you do. Shielding gas works better. I think I paid $200 for my tank, so I would buy that lincoln instead. It also looks newer and treated better. It will work fine for sheet metal. As far as going low enough, they will go low enough just fine, and you can switch to thinner wire if you work on 22 gauge japanese cars like I do. I have a miller 180, which is the 220v version of those two. I just decided to splurge because no one sells used welders for anything less then 90% of new, even if they are old and lovely.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2010 23:25
|
|
|
Well, I was thinking the Lincoln was a better deal, if only because it came with a tank. I need to do some welding on a older 50s car with some somewhat thick metal. No heavy body work, just floorpans. Should that one suffice?
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 02:03
|
|
|
This looks like a good deal on a starter socket set for working on cars: http://dealnews.com/Craftsman-106-Piece-Mechanics-Tool-Set-for-50-18-s-h/412599.html Most tool kits are loaded with fluff like allen wrenches or driver bits but this 100 tool kit has 68 sockets alone. For $50 I doubt you could do much better with Craftsman tools.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 02:51
|
|
|
I feel like those ratchets are going to break from just looking at them wrong.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 03:03
|
|
|
I've pretty much taken apart a Miata and put it back together with http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00935154000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2, a torque wrench, hammer and a few larger size wrenches/sockets. My impact wrench is a rubber mallet and the 1/2" wrench.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 03:24
|
|
|
mod sassinator posted:This looks like a good deal on a starter socket set for working on cars: http://dealnews.com/Craftsman-106-Piece-Mechanics-Tool-Set-for-50-18-s-h/412599.html I have an older version of this kit and have broken over half the sockets and both ratchets. I think I bought it in 2003 or so. Meanwhile my HF stuff keeps on chugging. I've only broken one HF tool in years of use and abuse. The Craftsman set my father gave me 20 years ago is still going strong though. I even left the ratchet sitting outside for 3 month of winter and it works like new.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 04:18
|
|
|
What kind of creepers do you guys like? I just started what will be a lengthy project on an e30 and I realized I finally need to get one. This one seems like a good idea: http://www.amazon.com/Dale-Adams-Enterprises-4031-Bone-ster/dp/B0000DEZNE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1291692921&sr=8-7 Does anyone have any experience with it? Any recommendations?
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 05:00
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:I have an older version of this kit and have broken over half the sockets and both ratchets. I think I bought it in 2003 or so. From what I've heard, 20 years ago craftsman was still made in the US and relatively good quality. These days it's all made in China, and the poo poo that your lifetime warranty gives you is re-manufactured stuff. I've been meaning to get a larger socket set, and I'm steering clear of new craftsman stuff for that reason. Good to know HF stuff is more solid. E: I really need to buy a jack, and I have the HF 20% off instore coupon, but I feel like I shouldn't go cheap. Will I be glad I bought the $160 one? (I want an aluminum racing jack as my car is light, low, and I need to carry the jack up stairs for storage) Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Dec 7, 2010 |
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 06:15
|
|
|
ExplodingSims posted:Well, I was thinking the Lincoln was a better deal, if only because it came with a tank. I need to do some welding on a older 50s car with some somewhat thick metal. No heavy body work, just floorpans. Should that one suffice? My input would be to look at an entry level Millermatic 140 MIG Welder. Does gas welding, flux core, good for thin sheet metal (I've used it down to 26AWG Mild steel sheet without issues).
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 06:54
|
|
|
RapeWhistle posted:What kind of creepers do you guys like? I just started what will be a lengthy project on an e30 and I realized I finally need to get one. I bought one of these at Harbor Freight for about 20bux. http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-ATD-81050-Blow-Molded-Mechanics-Creeper/dp/B000M5WV7I/ref=pd_cp_hi_3 No complaints yet.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 07:01
|
|
|
Wombot posted:I bought one of these at Harbor Freight for about 20bux. http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-ATD-81050-Blow-Molded-Mechanics-Creeper/dp/B000M5WV7I/ref=pd_cp_hi_3 I have the same HF one, and it works as well as any. My problem is that I rarely have cars high enough to work on a creeper, so sliding on a sheet of cardboard is far more convenient. In fact, that's how I had to do an entire transmission swap with a car on Rhino ramps. The extra 3 inches on the creeper seems to make all the difference.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 07:34
|
|
|
Deceptor101 posted:From what I've heard, 20 years ago craftsman was still made in the US and relatively good quality. These days it's all made in China, and the poo poo that your lifetime warranty gives you is re-manufactured stuff. 1991 is the cutoff year, so yeah he's good to go. Deceptor101 posted:E: I really need to buy a jack, and I have the HF 20% off instore coupon, but I feel like I shouldn't go cheap. Will I be glad I bought the $160 one? (I want an aluminum racing jack as my car is light, low, and I need to carry the jack up stairs for storage) That jack rules and it's a uniquely good item; one where you shouldn't look at the $200 version as better and the $400 version as more better, because they're just more expensive and not as good as the $160 jack. The $160 one is magically perfect. Also the sister jack with the LEDs is a stupid problem waiting to happen, everyone should keep a flashlight around for anytime they need to jack up the car anyway. Not sure if I'd buy that flashlight at HF, though; it's got Electronics in it. e: This jack, looks like it's $170 these days. Turns out I actually have the $100 version from the OP. The one you're looking at is the same only it looks like it pumps up faster, probably a dual-action pump?
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 08:14
|
|
|
I have the lightweight rapid pump aluminum blue one and man is it loving awesome. It was $149 when I bought it over two years ago and works as perfectly as when new.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 14:02
|
|
|
PitViper posted:Anybody have one of the 13 drawer roller cabinets that HF sells? I'm thinking about picking one up to replace my cheap 3-piece Craftsman box, since I'm borderline outgrowing it. Don't think I'll need a top box yet, but I'll probably pick one up come spring. Looks like a much better quality box than my friction-slide Craftsman setup, plus it'd give me a bit more workspace in the garage. Everything I read about these boxes says they are twice as good as craftsman or HD/lowes boxes for a lot less money. You can get it for 349$ with a coupon (look on garage journal or slick deals). I'm seriously considering getting one this week. On another note, any 3/8th torque wrench recommendations? I don't need electronic digital read out fancy junk, just something that will be accurate and last. I was looking at a gear wrench one for around 100$ but can't even come up with many other options to compare it to.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 16:59
|
|
|
Super awesome deal on a Lincoln MIG rig on Craigslist. Clearly they don't know what they've got: Or maybe it's hot. It is Racine after all. edit: gone now. It was $150 for a "sodering kit" which was really a Lincoln Handy MIG with a bottle of gas. Someone got super lucky today. Dielectric fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Dec 8, 2010 |
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 20:37
|
|
|
Dazzleberries posted:Everything I read about these boxes says they are twice as good as craftsman or HD/lowes boxes for a lot less money. You can get it for 349$ with a coupon (look on garage journal or slick deals). I'm seriously considering getting one this week. drat, maybe I should have spent another $100 and gotten this instead of the Craftsman set I just picked up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 20:42
|
|
|
Dazzleberries posted:Everything I read about these boxes says they are twice as good as craftsman or HD/lowes boxes for a lot less money. You can get it for 349$ with a coupon (look on garage journal or slick deals). I'm seriously considering getting one this week. That toolbox is awesome. If you can catch a sale or use a coupon, it can be pretty cheap. I got mine for 279. Worth it all day. WAY better than a CMan. As for a torque wrench, buy an S-K off eBay, they'll calibrate it for free, and they are drat good tools. I also just bought a serious welder... Millermatic 210, with the 3035 spoolgun. $1100 with a 120CF tank, 2 sets of gauges, and barely any time on the clock.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2010 22:40
|
|
|
RapeWhistle posted:What kind of creepers do you guys like? I just started what will be a lengthy project on an e30 and I realized I finally need to get one. I have the "rough rider" version, and it has its pros and cons. http://www.amazon.com/Dale-Adams-Enterprises-7031-Mechanics/dp/B00005A1KQ/ref=pd_cp_hi_2 Pro: Often actually successfully rolls over stuff Pretty solid construction Con: Can't fit under anything, ever. Want to fit under a Jeep on max height jack stands? Still scraping your nose. I would imagine the non-"rough rider" version is lower-profile, so maybe it's a better bet.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2010 02:24
|
|
|
CatBus posted:I have the "rough rider" version, and it has its pros and cons. I already picked up the one from HF... god I spend way too much money on cheap Chinese poo poo that works. I end up in HF at least 1-2 times weekly.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2010 03:13
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:That jack rules and it's a uniquely good item; one where you shouldn't look at the $200 version as better and the $400 version as more better, because they're just more expensive and not as good as the $160 jack. The $160 one is magically perfect. Also the sister jack with the LEDs is a stupid problem waiting to happen, everyone should keep a flashlight around for anytime they need to jack up the car anyway. Not sure if I'd buy that flashlight at HF, though; it's got Electronics in it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2010 11:25
|
|
|
Deceptor101 posted:This is the jack I was looking at. It's a bit higher capacity, goes an inch higher, and looks a little better quality, also it's even a little cheaper. I think I may just jump on one of these, I'm hoping for a sale, but I can't seem them putting it more than $40 off. Do it, that looks awesome. The neoprene handle sleeve would have been nice on mine, I hit my bodywork all the time when I'm not thinking. Good thing it's already hosed. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2010 15:33
|
|
|
ExplodingSims posted:Well, I was thinking the Lincoln was a better deal, if only because it came with a tank. I need to do some welding on a older 50s car with some somewhat thick metal. No heavy body work, just floorpans. Should that one suffice? Ya it will be fine. Just don't expect it to weld 1/2" steel very well. they will be fine up to 1/8" plate or 1/4" or whatever they say. Basically anything that is made of sheet metal can be welded with a 120v mig.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2010 18:24
|
|
|
Deceptor101 posted:This is the jack I was looking at. It's a bit higher capacity, goes an inch higher, and looks a little better quality, also it's even a little cheaper. I think I may just jump on one of these, I'm hoping for a sale, but I can't seem them putting it more than $40 off. I'm buying that exact jack later this year... I've got the smaller one and its fine, but a little small. That big one is much larger, and much beefier.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2010 19:11
|
|
|
Woot has all these little Skil tool sets for $2.99 each today. Including shipping you can get 3 for $14. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2010 10:29
|
|
|
I want to get a welder do learn how to weld/do some body work. From reading, I want a MIG with the capability to do fluxcore welding. Am I right? Any suggestions of brands/welders to avoid? Any particular set up that is good for beginners/light use?
|
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2010 02:06
|
|
|
Veins McGee posted:I want to get a welder do learn how to weld/do some body work. From reading, I want a MIG with the capability to do fluxcore welding. any MIG welder can do fluxcore. I would avoid the harborfrieght welders, low duty cycle, crappy parts, and not much power. You can find cheap 110v Lincolns on craigslist pretty often. Hobarts are decent too, Millers are great but cost a bit more.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2010 02:25
|
|
|
Veins McGee posted:I want to get a welder do learn how to weld/do some body work. From reading, I want a MIG with the capability to do fluxcore welding. Fluxcore is really only good in lovely outdoor conditions. It smokes, sputters and gets slag everywhere. It makes a solid joint, but that joint requires almost as much effort to clean up. If you get a good MIG welder, get gas to go with it. Welding will be easier with far less clean up required. Shop Craigslist for a used Miller 130 or 140 if you want to be cheap but get something that will last more than a few hours.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2010 16:09
|
|
|
From what I gather, around the internets, inexpensive Lincoln, Miller and Hobart units are the best brands for the hobbyist/DIYer.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2010 00:07
|
|
|
FormulaXFD posted:Fluxcore is really only good in lovely outdoor conditions. It smokes, sputters and gets slag everywhere. It makes a solid joint, but that joint requires almost as much effort to clean up. If you get a good MIG welder, get gas to go with it. Welding will be easier with far less clean up required. Shop Craigslist for a used Miller 130 or 140 if you want to be cheap but get something that will last more than a few hours. The fluxcore actually gets a bit more penetration for doing thicker material like 1/4". You can do multiple passes but you need to make sure that the wire you're using allows for that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2010 00:21
|
|
|
NinjaTech posted:The fluxcore actually gets a bit more penetration for doing thicker material like 1/4". You can do multiple passes but you need to make sure that the wire you're using allows for that. I can weld but don't know everything. Could you explain why, using certain wire, you couldn't make more than one pass?
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2010 00:24
|
|
|
scapulataf posted:I can weld but don't know everything. Could you explain why, using certain wire, you couldn't make more than one pass? It depends on the contents of the flux inside the wire. Some will allow you to do single pass or mutliple passes. If you try to do multiple with a single pass wire it will just crack under stress, sometimes even after cooling. The flux will also allow you different welding positions such as overhead, vertical, horizontal and flat. Some will only allow you to do horizontal and flat where others allow out of position welding (overhead/vertical).
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2010 00:36
|
|
|
I've added one of these to my old man's Christmas presents, seems like a useful little gadget: It's a short extension bar with an LED light built into it, so you can target fastener heads in the depths of the engine bay or undercarriage without a separate torch. I've had a fair few "Bugger, need both hands, have to try and correctly angle a penlight I'm holding in my mouth" situations that this should avoid.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2010 15:58
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:I've added one of these to my old man's Christmas presents, seems like a useful little gadget: That's pretty nifty. The whole balancing work lights on poo poo to aim them, only to knock them over right when you get to whatever your working on is frustrating as hell. One thing that I've added to my toolbox that I wish I got a loooong time ago is a head lamp. I might look a little odd rolling around on the garage floor with a head lamp on but drat if it isn't useful. Anyone have suggestions for a decent pressure washer, probably electric? I don't need something insanely powerful, basically I want one to spray dirtbikes off instead of having to stop at a carwash on the way home from riding.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2010 18:17
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Where'd you find it? Looks good. e: Oh poo poo I forgot,  Dammit.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2010 21:29
|
|
|
needknees posted:Anyone have suggestions for a decent pressure washer, probably electric? I don't need something insanely powerful, basically I want one to spray dirtbikes off instead of having to stop at a carwash on the way home from riding. Splizwarf posted:Where'd you find it? Looks good.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2010 22:46
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Cheapest one you can find, from somewhere that lets you add a cheap 3-year warranty that includes accidental damage. For occasional use, they do the job, and when it breaks you go get another one. There's a ton of them out there, anything in particular I should be looking for? And while I'm not going to need something crazy powerful / heavy duty, it is going to get used frequently. probably 3-4x month or more since I'll probably wash my car with it too, along with the streetbike so I don't want a total cheapo one.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2010 02:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 19:38 |
|
|
needknees posted:There's a ton of them out there, anything in particular I should be looking for? And while I'm not going to need something crazy powerful / heavy duty, it is going to get used frequently. probably 3-4x month or more since I'll probably wash my car with it too, along with the streetbike so I don't want a total cheapo one. If you want something that will last decently, you need to spend 700-1000. There's only two components to a power washer, engine and pump. Good units have a quality brand of each component. Mediocre units have one quality brand. Disposable units have neither. Hands down the best engine you could run a power washer with is the Honda GX 390. The GX engine series is their professional line and is extremely durable. The 390 is the most powerful at 11 or 13 HP, I can't remember. Comparable engines include the Kohler Command Pro, Briggs Vanguard and "Subaru" Robin engines. Kawasaki only makes pro quality engines, but I don't think anyone uses them on a power washer. Middle quality engines will be the Honda GC engines, Briggs Intek and possibly an old stock Tecumseh engine. Low quality engines will be Briggs "Professional" engines and manufacturer branded Chinese Intek and GX knock offs. These are the pits. The two best names in pumps are CAT and Annovi-Reverberi. Karcher makes the most pumps, but their products compete on value, not on total cost of ownership. If you get corrosion in a Karcher, you buy a new pump. CAT and AR are rebuildable indefinitely. AR isn't necessarily going to be branded, but they have a distinctive design language. Look them up on the web before going out. There are far less brands in pressure washers than it would appear, particularly at the big box stores. The majority of washers are made by Briggs and Stratton Power Products (formerly Generac), and nowadays feature mostly Briggs engines. Every MTD brand washer is actually made under license by BSPP, and the label will say so. There are some John Deere units at Lowes that have Honda GX engines and are BSPP units. Ridgid tools is new at the game. They use high dollar pumps and then compromise a bit on the engines to compete on price. As much as I like their CAT pumps, that's the easiest part to fix, i'd go for a GX engine first. Finally, https://www.smallenginewarehouse.com is where you are going to go if you ever have pump issues. If you have a strong engine, a decent frame and some good accessories, it's worth it to re-pump a failed unit for a few hundred. This summer, we did just that to a guy's Cub Cadet professional model washer. CC only made them for two years and parts were non-existent. We are a Kohler dealer, though, so that wasn't a problem, and we just stuck an A-R pump on and called it good. It was less pretty than the original set up, but worked better. For shop use, we've got a BSPP "Elite" series unit with an Intek engine and an A-R pump, it is used daily with no issues, but is somewhat lacking in the feature department.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2010 10:06
|
|