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happyscrappyheropup posted:I have one of those Craftsman aluminum jacks and it does suck. Amen to that! However it's totally overkill that I have my Mini....
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# ¿ Mar 5, 2008 16:36 |
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# ¿ Apr 18, 2024 01:29 |
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This thread has been so dangerous for my wallet, it's truly scary. I've been collecting tools now for about 7 years, but it always seems like there's more I need. This is my current setup, not pictured is another top box and 2 handyman toolboxes stuffed full. I just got my first Snap-On tool. I traded a decent Husky workbench I bought on clearance for it. I was asking $100 for the workbench and when the guy offered me the Snap-On I didn't believe him at first.
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# ¿ Aug 11, 2013 06:33 |
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The Third Man posted:So how big of a crapshoot are used snap-on torque wrenches on ebay? I like the idea of having a tool that I can be confident will last me the rest of my life, but would it be smarter to just save up and buy it new? I don't think it's a big deal. You can have them re-calibrated by snap-on. Just make absolutely sure you're getting a legit snap-on wrench. The one I got had a re-calibration 8 weeks before I bought it. It had paperwork to prove it, which was really nice.
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2013 02:27 |
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I'd also consider the Craftsman pro series. You can get a decent kit without breaking the bank. Throw it in a harbor freight rolling cart and splurge for a few of the nice bits. You should definitely have real vice-grips in standard and needle nose, a few different hammers and probably a good adjustable wrench. There's been a nice vice-grip style Stanley adjustable wrench linked here a hundred times that if I was just starting out again I'd get. Consider getting one tool that's unique that not a lot of people have seen. Something like the koloss ratchet/hammer, if the new kid has a quality tool the old timers haven't used or seen it can mean a lot. I also highly recommend some wobble extensions.
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# ¿ Aug 13, 2013 07:16 |
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x-post from the stupid question thread because it's about a tool and a stupid question: I was just offered an older Hobart TIG welder for $400. It's a 230v water-cooled Unit and I did see it work. I don't know a lot about TIG, but I want to learn. I've been using a cheap Harbor-Freight flux core welder for like an hour every night, I've just been sticking stuff together but I really enjoy it. This thing is BIG, I'd say the unit itself is close to 3 feet deep/tall and 2 1/2 feet wide. It comes on a cart with the entire water-cooling setup and I'd have to buy my own bottle. It looks like this one, but with an extra knob and a cart/watercooling setup. I can't afford a newer TIG like a dynasty. Should I buy this?
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# ¿ Aug 18, 2013 02:17 |
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Mooseykins posted:I'd say go for it. Is as DC or AC/DC? AC is needed for welding ally. Also check what the minimum output is, as being a 3-phase machine it's probably something like 300A-capable, which is well into 3/8" mild steel territory, and that gets pretty fuckin' hot! Hobart is a good brand, and that's an industrial grade machine. Do you have/can you get 240v 3-phase at home or where you'd be using it? It's AC/DC and it looked like it went down to 35A. My garage is already wired for it, it's a long story but apparently this welder was actually used in my shop before I moved here. I think it also has a second lever adjuster on the right hand side that the one in the picture doesn't have. I should have taken a pic, but I got a bit excited when he gave me the price.
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# ¿ Aug 18, 2013 02:31 |
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Mooseykins posted:Sounds good, 35A is about what you'd use for 1/16" mild steel, so if you want to do thin sheet it may not have a low enough range. However i think the lowest i've run my machine was 18A to repair a flexi section on a stainless exhaust for a DB6, gently caress doing that again.. Good to know, I've got the flux core for really thin stuff. After some practice I've been able to draw a clean bead on as thin as 22 gauge. I don't know how much stainless/aluminum I'll be doing to start, but I definitely want to learn. I'm going to check out that guys youtube channel, I've been having a hard time finding good guide/walkthroughs.
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# ¿ Aug 18, 2013 02:50 |
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Viper915 posted:I'm trying to fit a tool chest into a relatively small area. I'm looking at 24"-26" wide, something like a top chest. I've looked at a few craftsman ones just because sears is nearby, but I recall hearing that they're not quite up to snuff. I don't want to spend more than like $250, and it's honestly not going to be super heavily used. Any reccomendations or will a $100-$150 sears or lowe's chest be ok for moderate use tool storage in my apartment? I can't seem to find anything that size from harbor freight either. http://www.harborfreight.com/6-drawer-top-chest-67423.html It's 26" and 3/4. I hate to recommend this, but check out Home Depot (I hate that place) Husky toolboxes are pretty drat nice.
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# ¿ Aug 22, 2013 17:50 |
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# ¿ Apr 18, 2024 01:29 |
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I did a thing... I got it for $400, I'm torn between keeping it and selling it to finance a new Everlast machine. What does the collective think? If I keep it I have to put a larger breaker in, it's max draw is like 74 amps or something. A newer machine is around 40 something amps for an inverter based machine. This one has a weldcraft wp-20 torch and a Bernard liquid cooler system.
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# ¿ Aug 24, 2013 22:35 |