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Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

How hard is bending and flaring exhaust pipe, and what are the right tools? Cutting it seems like a breeze. My current cat is dead, not OEM, and has no identifying marks; to put anything on I'm going to have to bend the output pipe.

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Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

This thread has turned into an air-tank wank-fest. Not that I'm complaining, I'll be hell of interested and read back up as soon as I decide I need one; the trouble is, when I check out new posts in this thread for the last couple weeks, I've been pretty bored, and I liked this thread. Maybe I can help myself.

Tell me about King Dick tools (or speculate wildly). http://www.kingdicktools.co.uk/

Here in America, with a name like King Dick, in loving huge letters, these tools might be pleasingly offensive unique to own. If they're not worthless lumps. I'm not interested in the wacky Limey-measure set (until I decide to buy an old Triumph a welder), but they do put out metrics, and by comparison to Craftsman's usually-available 8 through 27, metric 6 through 50 is rather frightening and a little erotic. Price-wise, if they were in the American market, they'd be a little higher than Craftsman-grade (I think) and below Cornwell and Matco (I think).

Does anyone in here use them? I would like to know more.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

ab0z posted:

harbor freight is good for some things, but every time I do a major job I find a problem with one of the normal hand tools I've bought from them.
I can only recommend them for specialty tools, like their balljoint seperator, inner tie rod end tool, and other things like that. They are also a good source for consumables, like cheap grinding and cutting wheels, $.99 safety glasses, and $6 100-packs of blue nitrile gloves.
The more you use cheap tools, the more you understand why people are willing to pay Mac or SK money.

HF brass hammer. Would you believe I didn't buy it because it was cheap, but because no other stores, auto parts or Lowes-type, carried brass hammers? It's held up well. And they sell a nice set of picks, on the Pittsburgh label. On the other hand, stay away from the snap ring plier kit (Pittsburgh again); returning it today because it's a box of prebroken badly-cast awkwardly shaped dicks.

Also, HF wheel chocks, the huge rubber ones for $5, they're worth their weight in safety.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

What you're looking for is a 20% off coupon.

Hey look!


They took three from me today in one session. Trim off the extra white page edge. If they give you poo poo tell them "I'm not cutting up my collection." and give them the retard eye.

Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Dec 10, 2009

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

RealKyleH posted:

Thanks for this, slickdeals has a larger version if anyone has trouble printing this one clearly.

http://slickdeals.net/forums/attach...60&d=1256871142

Funny thing, actually, mine is that one, only hosted to Photobucket; slickdeals doesn't allow hotlinking and I didn't want to try to explain where to look on the page.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Is there going to be a limit on coupons? Like, only the ones on your account or something? The trouble is, half the fun of shopping there is the hindbrain thrill of ridiculous discountage. If they take that away I might as well buy real tools.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Mister, you bought the right house.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

CatBus posted:

I have a couple floor jacks already, one of which is pretty nice, but I caved in and grabbed this one tonight. It's a pretty good price. Thanks for sharing the coupon!

I have that jack, and it is pretty loving great; I got it from this thread with a previously-posted coupon so I'm pleased I could pass it on.

Fair warning though, if you use it on a pinch weld, the rubber part is thick enough that it will pinch in half and be worthless, pull it off first. Ask me how I know!

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

scapulataf posted:

those were channel lock pliers

Slip-joint pliers. Channel Lock is a (frighteningly well-defended) brand name. Ask me about the time blood came out of my ears.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

scapulataf posted:

it seems that this thread has degraded into a big harbour freight ad.

Check the OP sucka

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Tell me if we should buy this:
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...51&cmRelshp=sim

as a floor model with a crack in the plastic housing for $50. Apparently, it was $300 to start, and would be $100 to a non-employee. Obviously, if the crack appears to impair function, the deal is off; otherwise, JB Weld to the rescue.

Uses would be air ratchets and small grinders (mostly cleaning rust, not cutting), and buffers. Painting if the thing could actually handle it.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

oxbrain posted:

Option 1: No.

Option 2: Buy it, sell it on craigslist for $100-150, use that money to buy a better compressor.

I'm half relieved, half disappointed. Thanks.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

dv6speed posted:

Personally, I like the oil filter wrenches that have the 3 grippers, hook up to a ratchet, and its grip on the filter gets tighter as you try to turn it.

I got one of these at Harbor Freight. Takes some fuckery to get it in the right position but it rules.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Suniikaa posted:

I have a pair of these http://www.curiousinventor.com/store/product/100 that I got from radio shack for cheap, does 30 gauge no problem.

Harbor Freight has these with yellow handles for the same price if Radio Shack doesn't pan out. Good down to infinity.

e: Suniikaa, thanks for the Curious Inventor link, turns out the rest of the site is pretty cool.

Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Mar 5, 2010

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Rhyno posted:

I bought a Milwaukee Sawzall from a sketchy dude yesterday for $25. Came with 2 10 packs of brand new blades. Pretty sure it was stolen the way he was behaving.

It's a Sawzall. Cut your guilt up until the pieces are too small to bother you anymore. Then do it to everything else in the world.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Rhyno posted:

I'm pretty sure I could cut the planet in half with this thing. It makes my arms ache after a few seconds of use.

Use it more, this too shall pass.

More.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Harbor Freight posted:

Creates 30 times more torque than a standard lug wrench, making it easy to shear off wheel studs.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

In my experience Kia Rio lugnuts are on tight enough from the factory to shear the studs. The studs are aluminum, there's only 4, and if driven on only 3 there's a 100% (3 out of 3 times in this woman's case) chance of snapping at least 1 more stud on the drive to the dealership. When they all go, the wheel folds under the car, which is actually sort of convenient. The entire wheel assembly needs to come apart to replace a sheared stud, and none of it is covered under warranty because the studs are on the disposable items list.

Every time I see her in that car I'm torn between sympathy and . Then I remember how horrible she is and the sympathy just drifts away on the breeze.

The rest of my experience with sheared wheel studs is probably rust, yeah.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Tell me about buying a cordless electric 1/2 inch drive impact for under $100. Yes, it's probably going to break or degrade quickly, but who will give me the best odds? Also, how many more is something decent that everyone likes?

Also, tell me about lighting a garage where the ceiling is already too close for comfort and I can't disturb the wiring. Does anyone make something that snugs into the corner where a wall meets the ceiling?

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

I was hoping for cordless. I want to take it to the junkyard. If I go corded I might as well spend the $100 on an air compressor instead, I already have some airwrenches.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Godholio posted:

Edit: Is there a product out there to somehow check the calibration of a torque wrench? I've got some work coming up that I'd like to know it's accurate, but I also know I abused the wrench before I knew better.

Use a double-ended socket and test it against a known good torque wrench. The advice I keep getting is to buy a cheap beam-style wrench (like the $10 Harbor Freight one) and only take it out of the case to calibrate others.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

meatpimp posted:

Who uses an impact wrench on their lug nuts? Me. Every single time. With these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=92890

They're surprisingly reliable and consistent (verified / compared with higher and lower torque sticks and a torque wrench when I first got them). Makes wheel swaps super quick.

That set you linked is just what I was looking for. Thanks.

I wanted to say something like this too. I haven't manned up (read: ) and gotten torque sticks yet but my Mercury's lugnut torque spec IIRC is "75 to 120 foot-pounds". I torque wrench them to about 95 usually, but it's clearly written for a torque stick. And my 2002 Volvo v40 just lists a Volvo "Special Tool" torque stick where you'd expect to find a lug torque listing, it was hard to find an actual number.

oxbrain posted:

Check those torque sticks again, they have a nasty habit of stiffening up after a while.

Work hardening?


Regarding cordless 1/2" impact guns, what about this? http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-22614-1...69805184&sr=1-2
I've given up on the $100 limit for lack of options. I'm a Volvo fag so the Bosch label is always a little .

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

scapulataf posted:

I was looking for a wrench, but couldn't find it so I used a horse's penis.

Maybe vicegrips would have been a better choice.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

MetaJew posted:

My FSM says otherwise (and says to use some non-existant stand adapter). I suppose I could put stands under the front cross-member where the jacking point is, but I prefer the idea of having the stands spaced as far apart as possible. As far as the rear end goes, I have absolutely no idea where else you could put the jack stands, since the jack point is the differential housing. (If anyone has an S14 240sx and has better suggestions I'd be glad to hear them.)

If your rear jack point is the diff (which is fine for jacking, and you won't be working under a jack with no stands, right?) why can't you put stands under your rear axles?

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Black88GTA posted:



Sorry, bro, looks like your Sawzall-chucks didn't come with the chain.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Coasterphreak posted:

I've been looking into getting some tools of my own, so that I don't have to keep borrowing my father's. Does anybody have recommendations on a good starter metric set of crescent/socket wrenches that falls somewhere between the bottom shelf at Harbor Freight and Snap On in price?

Buy anything with a lifetime warranty, without that it's not worth getting cheap tools. Craftsman still gets good press because their lifetime is no-questions-asked, you can cut a wrench in half and return it. I know a bunch of dudes who make custom tools from Craftsman stuff because if it doesn't work out, it's not a waste. I dunno what the return policy on Kobolt, Husky, Stanley, and DeWalt is but they're comparable for quality AFAIK. Kobolt and Husky are Lowes and Home Depot, Craftsman is Sears. Also I think DeWalt is more aimed at the woodworking crowd?

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Landshark posted:

I bought a Kobalt 1/2" drive ratchet and a 1/4" drive ratchet on clearance a couple of years ago. They are now my favorite ratchets over the Craftsman ratchets.

The trouble for me is those round handles. I like corners on my handles, round handles are a lot harder to beat with a sledge.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

laymil posted:

You shouldn't be beating a ratchet with a sledge under any circumstances. Get the right tool for the job.

Haha, this is a troll, right? The point of Craftsman tools is you make them the right tool for the job.

Everyone posted:



If I had ratchets with no lifetime guarantee I wouldn't be beating on them. Also, I'd still make sure I had some I could beat on. Sometimes, a hammer and a ratchet go places that a wrench, a breaker bar, and an impact gun just can't go. Maybe if I had a wrench that I could mount deepwall sockets on, that turned... hmm.

Oxbrain, I'm scared of the Poison Hammer. Most common poisons just make you sick or kill you, lead makes you stupid. I'll probably still buy one eventually, though, because it's loving badass. And probably recast it right away with the Mr. Yuck face on the side.

Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Apr 6, 2010

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

The lead hammer is a framing problem, not a practical one. I know it's not dangerous, but...

Sort of like how liquid Teflon is poisonous as gently caress but biologically inert when it's solid so when that non-stick pan coating comes off in your eggs it's fine to eat, right? gently caress that, I'll stick with the Revereware (stainless w/ copper-clad bottom).

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Fats posted:

I guess I have an irrational fear of lead as well, but I've got a couple soft copper mallets that work alright.

What I was getting at is that with other poisons you get symptoms, with lead you go "hmm, am I dumber today?" every time you forget something or can't think straight or etc. Oh god constant nagging worry!

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

oxbrain posted:

That's if you got it as a kid. Adults just get cranky, depressed, and sick.

gently caress, I get lead poisoning every time I wake up then.

MetaJew posted:

Are you sure you're not confusing lead poisoning with mercury poisoning? Or is mercury poisoning just the one where you start forgetting things... like the alphabet?

Forgetting things is aluminium. Mercury is going batshit holy gently caress brainfire gibbering crazy.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Rhyno posted:

To bring this back up, I bought one for $33 today.

Me too.

Tomorrow: exhaust clamps.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

grover posted:

Mixing the two has bad consequences- if you try to use a MIL-SPEC fiber optic connector on a piece of commercial-gradde equipment, the stronger spring tension on the MIL-SPEC connector can break the plastic plug.

Do you have more stories like this? This type of stuff is fascinating, modern-day cautionary fables about unintended consequences.

I like stuff that works, stands up to excessive abuse, and does nothing but the thing it's made to do, so military gear is often attractive. I grew up believing that MIL-SPEC meant "best thing for the job / indestructible" but it seems that like everything else in life it turns out it's a case-by-case aspect-by-aspect basis. I bet even that type of analysis wouldn't catch what you're talking about; someone probably found out the hard way.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

PBCrunch posted:

The HF plastic ones suck because they don't have the spring-loaded balls to keep the socket secured to the rail.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=96343

These do (every once in a while one doesn't have a spring, but I always have extras). I've been buying these, cutting them to the length I need, drilling a hole at the cut end (because there's no stop now) and running a ziptie through the hole as a stop. Often the cut-off part is useful too. I figure if I ever need to change the number of sockets or whatever I can just cut off the ziptie.

I need my rails to fit in a ~8" bag; also, putting my 1/4" metric sockets on a normal rail leaves 70% of the rail swinging in the wind and just seems retarded.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

frozenphil posted:

Yeah, they just crack down the side and make a rather unfulfilling *snap* sound.

You've been lucky so far. I had a Harbor Freight one unwind like a goddamned concertina wire. I'm just glad my hand wasn't on it.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

zifflol posted:

My 3/8 ratchet calfed and I needed a quick replacement until I can get it returned on warranty, so I picked up this for $10 today. http://www.dealtime.com/xPO-Black-D...3-8-Tri-Ratchet Has anyone ever bought one of these before? The twist ratchet on it looks like it could be really useful, but it's black and decker so I'm very unsure of the quality. The handle also comes off and it can be used in a drill, even though a drill doesnt have nearly enough torque to accomplish anything.

This tool sounds too functional to be good. Waiting to see how this works out.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

I need to replace several connectors on my car (male/female blocks where a loom comes in and turns to pins or sockets). I need these blocks in specific numbers of pinslots (at least one must be 16 pins so Deutsch is out I think?), but they don't need to match anything but each other (replacing the male and the female at the same time on each set of connections). I think I need connector blocks, pins, sockets, and a crimper in the hobby/homemade price range.

Tell me what I really need, what to call the things I need so I can look for them, and if my Craftsman standard automotive crimper is going to cut it or I need to weld/grind some pliers.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

SNiPER_Magnum posted:

all 5-way and below

What does this mean?

I need a specific number of cavities because my OCD is blocking me from doing it the easy way; in this case I have 15 wires and just enough mental leeway to accept that most connectors with more than 1 row of cavities are probably going to have an even number of them. If I absolutely had to take 18 I might but 20 is really getting itchy.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

One Day Fish Sale posted:

I've not yet put an incredible amount of torque through them, but unless the materials turn out to be sub-par, the mechanism feels way beefier than the lovely Craftsman 3/8".

Anyway, I could see these lasting a long time. I intend to pick up the 1/2" next time I'm by a Harbor Freight.

I beat/torque the gently caress out of these and they have held up really well. The fine-ness of the mechanism will fade a little, like ....V.... will become ... V ...; as though the first tooth from wherever it stopped is hard to find. On the other hand, my Craftsmans did that out of the box.

Had to use the 1/2" one to tighten 10 bolts 60 degrees past 240 Newton-meters a couple weeks ago.

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Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Suniikaa posted:

Canadians, Canadian Tire has a giant 95 piece screwdriver set on sale till the 29th for 29.99, regular price 99.99

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...e.jsp?locale=en

Holy crap, that's a lot of... oh. Robertson.

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