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Edit: Ok so brand new Stihl MS251. I got it started once before but it died after a second or two. Now it's very hard to pull, but pulls easily when the spark plug is removed. The internet tells me that I probably flooded the engine, but I don't know what to do now when it's flooded. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Aug 15, 2012 |
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Aug 15, 2012 13:03
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FatCow posted:Stick a rag on top of the spark plug hole, just on the outside not into the cylinder. Give it a couple of pulls to splash the fuel out then put the plug back in. I tried. Nothing was splashed out. From what I could tell the spark plug wasn't "wet" neither. The manual had a similar procedure that I tried, didn't help.
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Aug 15, 2012 17:53
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Elephanthead posted:Did you read the starting instructions, you have to squeeze the throttle when you are clicking the ignition button down. It holds the throttle open and will flip up when it starts. Pull a few pulls on full choke then click it up one to run. Work the throttle when it starts so it doesn't stay on WOT. Other then that I don't know what is wrong. Yep. Followed the instructions to the letter. I did the "If the engine doesn't start" procedure as well. Must have put it on wrong setting by mistake and pulled. I dunno.
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Aug 16, 2012 08:12
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I'll do all the work I can myself, mostly because I find it interesting and I want to learn, but also because why spend money on simple poo poo when I can do it myself? Like when the front electric window stopped working on my old car. Took me an hour or so and cost me like $25 to buy one from a junkyard. Worked perfectly. I love the feeling of doing things myself. The next reason is that I want it done properly (or rather, if I do it, at least I know what's been done). It doesn't help that a pretty recent episode of consumer rights program we have did, that found that only one of the tested shops did the actual work they charged for / didn't try to replace items that are good. The one shop that did pass the test is rumored to have been tipped off before, so yeah. I do however trust my neighbor mechanic. He's always come back to me with cheaper prices than I expected, and been great. I'd rather do it myself though, because I enjoy it (a bit too much). Next step up is getting a welder and a license that allows me to actually tow cars, so that I can get into classic cars in the future. 
MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Apr 22, 2016 |
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Apr 22, 2016 17:03
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Ferremit posted:Slightly sideways, but considering how much time i spend cooking, i bought myself a new tool for that. I also got myself a Japanese chefs knife, and holy hell are they amazing. My girlfriend managed to pull something which dragged it off the counter and (luckily) it didn't go point down into my foot, but "only" bounced on the floor and then into my heel. The good: The point didn't break. The bad: It's annoying as gently caress to have a decently big cut on the heel.
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Apr 27, 2016 17:53
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sharkytm posted:That's what it was intended to do, Water Displacement, formula #40. Original use, keeping missile tubes from rusting in storage. So the coating actually stays on that long even though it appears to run off? I wonder how well it would work to protect the inside of rocker panels and such.
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May 25, 2016 15:10
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I'll probably need something like that as well. Winter and salt is murder down here in the south of Sweden. I just wonder what to use that isn't insanely expensive and/or snake oil. Without knowing that much the optimal thing would be something that stops existing rust while also protecting from new rust forming. The car I'm looking to buy had a Dinitrol treatment done 5 years ago, which is good I guess. Really loving expensive though. I'm very likely to buy the car and hopefully keep it for 5 years, hopefully without any rust showing.
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May 25, 2016 16:39
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KozmoNaut posted:Dinitrol is good stuff. My car's been treated with it, and it's completely rust-free even after 15 years on Danish roads. Cool, doesn't seem too expensive to buy neither. I'll probably try to treat the car (if I buy it) before winter then, and try to wash off all the salt as often as I can.
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May 25, 2016 19:53
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^^ Nice, I'm reading it now.KozmoNaut posted:I had a Dinitrol garage do it for me, I don't know how well the DIY stuff holds up. Yeah, but spending 1/5 - 1/3 of the cars worth on rust treatment might not be financially viable. At least if I DIY it I can use it as a "learning experience" or something. I was thinking maybe get hold of a big 5L of dinitrol or some other poo poo they use for protecting cars bottle, use one of them garden hand pumps with a fine nozzle / long small tube. and get it into all the cavities and just coat the poo poo out of them, after pressure washing any dirt and crap that is already there. Edit: Looks like WD-40 specialist performed very well. Too expensive to do a car with though. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 20:40 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 20:28
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Safety Dance posted:The guy who runs the ChrisFix Youtube channel has lots to say about Sonic tools (because they gave him a ton of free poo poo, obviously). Have any of you had experience with them? Speaking of tool brands and ChrisFix: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCOgrIPFxIY
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Jun 20, 2016 08:28
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Buy work gloves are one of the best things I've done. It's such a big improvement.
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Nov 3, 2016 18:48
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If I want to compress coil springs without buying a commercial grade tool, yet don't feel like having a coil spring sticking out of my forehead, are there any specific designs that are safer than others? The ones with only a hook on each end seem a bit dangerous.
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Nov 29, 2016 20:15
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eddiewalker posted:Why not get a commercial grade loaner from the corner parts store? Unfortunately there are no such options available where I live. 
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Nov 29, 2016 20:27
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:What kind of car/situation? I can pull the front springs on my Nova without any sort of compressor. Just gotta keep the control arms under... control. Alfa Romeo MiTo, and I might need to change the strut mounts in the future. Watched some videos on same platform vehicles and they compress the spring. Maybe using 3 clamps that have 2 clamps on each side would be safe? Compressing each one in small steps? Edit: Appears to be a MacPherson setup. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Nov 29, 2016 |
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Nov 29, 2016 20:48
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Oh yeah, for struts you'll need compressors as far as I know. Unless you've got one of those fancy-dancy wall-mounted ones, that is. Seconding buying some cheapos if rentals aren't available. Cool. I found some more videos, seems like only a slight compression is needed anyway.
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Nov 29, 2016 21:14
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Preoptopus posted:yall need to invest in some flash lights.
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Jan 6, 2017 19:47
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I mean you can lease dogs now so I guess a lien on a toolbox isn't that surprising. My only sympathy is for the animals. But maybe this will make people think twice going to a pet store and instead take on a rescue animal.
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Mar 21, 2017 08:43
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Any of you fellow Europeans got any good power tool brand tips that's outside of the usual Maktia/DeWalt/Milwaukee? Just found out about Felo and Wiha tools, which seem to be very good quality, but don't do power tools. Proper built in Europe, not chinesium stuff.
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Feb 28, 2018 17:24
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I got an old vise for cheap and took it apart to clean up. What kind of lubricant is preferred for the vise mechanism?
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Apr 24, 2018 19:11
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Seminal Flu posted:Grease. Thanks, it's all greased up now. Mine is some no name stuff, probably 40-50 years old. Hasn't been used as an anvil or silly stuff like that, so the jaws are in great shape. I've never had a vise before, but man have I've been missing out. It was bundled in the lot with a Black and Decker jigsaw from 1985 lol. At least it works, but yeah.
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Apr 27, 2018 09:52
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I'm finding that vises are loving expensive, so no point in throwing it away. It's probably better than the chinesium cheap stuff. Can't have too many of them neither.
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Jun 4, 2018 14:11
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It's not like torquing wheels takes that long anyway. I also find it strangely satisfying hearing that click and knowing I did something properly and also knowing that I won't have to use a 200m extension bar the next time (like when have wheels swapped at tire shops..). Unrelated: Some dude is selling a (afaik) big no name brand (Wisent) tool cabinet for pretty cheap. Includes a socket set that's pretty expensive to buy new. The little information I found online is kinda positive toward the tool cabinet, but I'm a bit wary since I've got the suspicion that everything is going to be cheaply made and hard to use. Can't really justify buying $1000-2000 tool chests at the moment. But a decent one for $200 is tempting. How sensitive are tool cabinets to "cheapness"? (I'm not in the US and just checked Home Depot. I'm jealous as gently caress that you can get a massive Milwaukee Mobile Workbench for 700 bucks wtf. That get's you a decent sized noname cabinet here..) Edit: Some more research and I guess ball bearing rails is important. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 10:58 on Jun 8, 2018 |
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Jun 8, 2018 08:09
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savesthedayrocks posted:Anyone seen a creeper like this stateside? Wait how is that only £35? Yeah I'm ordering that the next time I'm buying from Slims.
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Jun 28, 2018 19:06
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I just realised that I probably need to get a torque wrench for my sparkplug change. If I remember correcly, they need about 19NM or so. I have a 40-210NM wrench. The only reasonable wrench I can find is a no name one that has 2-25NM. Maybe a "how long is a piece of sting" type of question, but how likely am I to needing a torque wrench for the gap between 25-40NM? I haven't come across anything in that range so far. Edit: Also, are manual "needle on a graded scale" torque wrenches even worth looking at? MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 10:43 on Jul 1, 2018 |
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Jul 1, 2018 10:41
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^ I'm too much of a wimp to do it that way the first time. I also enjoy hearing the torque wrench click and knowing that at least I didn't gently caress up in that way.bolind posted:Proper clicky-style torque wrenches have, in the last decade, gone from quite expensive to downright reasonable, and with very decent precision. And if you look closely, you’ll see half of them are made in the same factory in Taiwan and rebranded. Yeah I noticed that. Mine's probably Taiwan produced as well. Most of them seem to be +-4% anyway (which is less than the specified torque range on most of the service items). I guess I'll go and get what I need for the moment and figure out in the future what I'll actually want to have good quality stuff for. Also, looking though the service manual, most things seem to be either <25nm or above 40nm so I guess I'll be fine. I kinda want to torque my sparkplugs though, first time swapping and no feel for torque. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Jul 1, 2018 |
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Jul 1, 2018 13:58
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eddiewalker posted:I’d think “bottomed plus turn” is actually a better measure since the crush washer is a factory-known variable. Seminal Flu posted:Agreed. Best to follow the plus "x" degrees or whatever specified by the plug manufacturer. That's a specifically designed juncture. Oh, didn't know that. Cool, I'll keep that in mind the next time I come across crush washers.
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Jul 1, 2018 16:17
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ionn posted:Maybe you live in the glorious lands where car parts from well-known brands are cheap and ubiquitous, but in the cold dark socialist northern europe the common man cannot afford such luxury. My spark plugs have names such as Ridex, Brisk, Beru, Vemo and Stark. I'm sure there's Arcöffal and Pöpli if I look hard enough. I never buy parts from Sweden. It's pretty crazy that it's usually 30-50% more expensive to buy than buying from the UK or Germany. Got pretty cheap NGKs from the UK. Fo3 posted:I agree you don't need a torque wrench for sparkplugs, but are you looking at only 1/2" socket wrenches? If you need another tool have you considered a 3/8" wrench? Cheap ones are usually 20-110nm, good ones are 10-100nm Thanks for the tips, after limiting the search to 3/8" (which in many ways is much better for size since I've run into space issues using the 1/2" one) I found some cheap discounted torque wrench with loads of 5 star review on Amazon. Cheap enough to give a go. 7-105NM so should be ok for my needs for now. Also, I am very impressed by the capability of my 12volt Bosch Blue line impact driver and drill. Me and my dad are in the process of building a floor for the woodshed. 12v drill was able to drill 10mm holes in the concrete without much hassle, and the impact driver just does the driving so quickly that it almost surprises me each time. The whole floor was done and the battery only went down one bar. Very impressed, can't wait to start using the driver on my car. Should have 105nm as a max, so most stuff won't be a problem, and the time saving should be worth it.
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Jul 13, 2018 20:11
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Rectal Placenta posted:We're currently looking into these at work: I don't even want to know what this costs (yes I do).
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Jul 23, 2018 21:41
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um excuse me posted:I mean if it's for wheels whatever, pull the trigger. I don't think you could have picked a less sensitive part of the car when it comes to torque. But I've done head bolts and camshaft bearing retainer which need stupid specific torque values. I'm not sure I'd trust HF for something like that How much would be a realistic price for a torque wrench that can handle engine stuff?
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Sep 14, 2018 07:42
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How should I approach getting a thread repair kit. Are most the same, or is it important to get a good expensive one?
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Nov 26, 2018 10:50
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Anyone got any opinions on this kind of lift "tool"? At first I thought it looked great, but then started to wonder if I can get under the car with the lines from it in the way. Also, I wonder if there is rooms to put jack stands behind it on the lift points so you can get the wheels off. I hate jacking up modern cars as the only official lift points are the pinch welds. I always feel like I'm ruining something. Lifting 40cm is pretty nice though... $350 barely used second hand.
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Dec 1, 2018 20:54
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slidebite posted:I'm not sure I follow what you mean by "wonder if I can get under the car with the lines from it in the way." The pictures doesn't show it too well, but the hydraulic lines are kinda short, so I get the feeling that I'd run into them on my crawler all the time. The way I jack up the cars presently is on the pinch welds with a pad and then I put the jack stands on a frame part that I've seen it referred to as a mounting point from when the car was produced and held by those frame machine things. Kinda like on this Dart (which I think shares a very similar platform). It's the only way to do it with jack stands and a jack.  There aren't really that many jobs you do without taking off the wheels when I think about it. Having one end 40cm higher than the other when doing gearbox oil etc isn't that great neither. nitsuga posted:Jack pucks might be a good thing to try instead of the wheel lifters. You could do both, but I’ve never had trouble jacking cars up on their pinch welds. Pads would be nice though. I bought a lift pad and made a custom slot for the pinch weld and then use small bits of a rubber mat to protect the undercoating from the jack stand.
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Dec 2, 2018 06:45
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It's a manual floor pump with two valves (one for each line) that you unscrew when lowering it. There is a locking mechanism that you apply, but (which is another drawback) only at the max lift point. To be honest, much better to just save my money and get a quick-jack or something in the future or something. Damned expensive though. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Dec 2, 2018 |
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Dec 2, 2018 07:09
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StormDrain posted:Costco has the Quickjack 5000slx on sale for $999, shipping included, on their website. I want to like the QuickJack, but there is something that just doesn't sit right with with them to me. Like this: quote:Is the quickjack safe? Their hate for Ezlift is another thing, regardless of it's good or not. Odd aggressive marketing that to me make the thing come across as lovely "As seen on tv" product, even if I know it's a good product.
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Dec 6, 2018 18:06
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slidebite posted:Haha holy poo poo that is quite the pivot isn't it? Yeah I know it's a good product, I just think they come across as a bit unprofessional. Claiming by comparison that jack stands are dangerous is a bit far fetched. I do want one, but at $2500 (in Sweden) for the 5000SLX, I could get a proper lift.
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Dec 7, 2018 09:33
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I guess this falls under tools? Anyone got any experience with/opinions on the CTEK battery chargers, more specifically the CTEK MXS 5.0. Seems to be well liked in review. I stupidly forgot to unplug my less than 2 year old battery while parking my other car. I'm Sweden based, so don't mind buying Swedish unless it's crap or there is better stuff for the money. Needs to be plugged in outside and left unsupervised, which I gather wouldn't be a problem with this. No too expensive neither. Rather pay a bit more and not burn the house/car down. VVVV: Thanks. CTEK it is. I think I'll go for the Stop-start charger. Supports more batteries. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Dec 9, 2018 |
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Dec 9, 2018 19:28
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The itch to get into welding is growing, so I'm looking for what to get as a starter welder. I'm not in the US so it's probably more a question of what to look for in general. I know AvE preaches stick welding, but to be honest I'll probably do smaller stuff and a project car in the future. I have one thing that does need welding and it's a cement mixer with a broken joint, so the cost of a welder would be offset by not having to buy a new cement mixer. From what I've read a MIG welder is the easiest and cheapest way to get into welding for thinner metals (as I gather stick welding is not suitable for automotive thickness metal). I don't have 3-phase at the moment, but that can easily be sorted (really needs to as well anyway) and I gather there is no real point in not buying a 3-phase welder anyway. So I guess the question is new or used. Gut feeling says that unless I'm spending tons of cash, a used welder is a much better bang for the buck. Other than these thought I'm pretty clueless to what to look for.
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Jan 13, 2019 11:19
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eddiewalker posted:When I was in your shoes, the Hobart 140 is what this thread sold me on. It’s solid, no frills, but predictable and has a longer duty cycle than the cheaper HF wirefeeds. Appreciate it! Some dude is selling a couple of MIG welders, and one of them is pretty decently in my price range. Has the following specs: code: ...if that's useful. Can do gas or no gas. From the euro welding forums I find it mentioned it has a good reputation. GYS Smartweld 162. Claims to be able to do 0.8mm - 4mm+ MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Jan 13, 2019 |
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Jan 13, 2019 18:28
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NinjaTech posted:I've had my Lincoln 140c for about 10 years now and it performs great for a 110v machine. I picked it since it had infinite adjustments on wirespeed and voltage. It was also a bit cheaper than the equivalent Miller 110 Mig. For thicker than 1/8" you'll most likely have to switch to a fluxcored wire. I would stick with a well known name brand that has good support in your country. Sounds good. Looked some more on local forums and they all say the same. Will be sure to find something like an ESAB or Kemppi etc. FatCow posted:I'd hold off for something that has more wire speed/voltage adjustments. Ideally a linear range with 'infinite' adjustments. As far as I can tell that box has 4 voltage settings. Makes sense. I take it that all the "Oh it takes the guesswork out of welding" is mostly marketing and after getting decent enough at welding it'll only be annoying and limiting?
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Jan 14, 2019 10:27
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Some dude is selling a cheap no-name late 90's table/bench drill press. I'm trying to justify it by coming up with useful situations for car stuff. Can't really think of any. Anyone have any examples where a bench drill press is useful for automotive stuff? I've already got a 12V drill and impact. I've not used a drill press since shop class in school, but I seem to remember it being nice to be able to very precisely drill stuff. Perhaps for rust removal and general cleaning of up of parts?
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Feb 1, 2019 18:52
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