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^ I've heard good things about Tractor Supply's in-house brand's ("Masterhand") tool cabinets. From what I understand they buy cabinets from the same supplier that builds them for Craftsman, so you basically end up getting a Craftsman cabinet for considerably less. Example; http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00913252000P?prdNo=13&blockNo=13&blockType=G13 52" 14 drawer Craftsman for $950 from Sears (supposedly on sale from a normal price of $1130.) http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/tool-storage/tool-boxes-cabinets/masterhand-reg-52-in-14-drawer-tool-cabinet-black-4047703 same thing from TSC for $700. Not sure what your budget is, but somehow I doubt a 72" cabinet (like the one you linked at Sam's) for $400 is going to be built well.
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Sep 11, 2010 08:18
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FogHelmut posted:Does Harbor Freight sell individual sockets? Or where can I get a 1.25" socket as cheaply as possible? Once you get up above the 1" size its not too hard to find individual sockets for sale in-store. A quick check of HF's website would appear to show that they only sell sockets in sets, but I've found that often what they have on their website and what the individual stores carry varies greatly.
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Nov 8, 2010 21:06
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FogHelmut posted:I'll check out Sears. If you don't need impact - http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00944069000P?vName=Tools+%26+Equipment&keyword=1-1/4+6pt&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=L1
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Nov 8, 2010 21:19
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Goob posted:I stopped by my local Harbor Freight today. They had coupons out for 25% off a single item on Thanksgiving Day. Thanks to their new crappy coupon policy, there's a bunch of things that you can't use it for. I was pumped that I could get an air compressor for 25% off, but I read the fine print and saw that air compressors are exempt from that coupon. Harbor Freight I kind of get the impression that Harbor Freight finally figured out that with some of their coupons and a very lax policy they were practically giving some items away.
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Nov 21, 2010 07:32
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Jared592 posted:I always thought it'd be cool to have something to compress air into those little paintball tanks and then just run air tools off of that (through a regulator). I know Rhino makes something like that that uses CO2 tanks, but some sort of home setup where you could fill your own tanks to very high psi (safely) would be awesome from a mobility and cost standpoint. Its technically possible. They've been using high-pressure air setups in paintball for over a decade at this point...its p much required for anything that has a high rate of fire to keep the gun from freezing or the tank's operating pressure from dropping. The catch is while the tanks are rated to hold either 3000 or 4500 PSI (output is regulated down to either 400 or 800 PSI depending on the setup), their capacity is fairly low with the largest tanks coming in under 100 cubic inches. And the equipment required to refill them isn't cheap either, so not terribly practical/economical to have an in-home filling station. You'd be better off renting a large storage tank if your application requires the use of air tools but for some reason you wouldn't be able to have an on-site compressor. Geoj fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Nov 26, 2010 |
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Nov 26, 2010 01:45
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:What do you guys use to heat your garages? I am trying to look for some kind of 120V heater that will be good for a 2 car garage, but I'm not having much luck finding anything. Lowes has a lot of space heaters that have a description as vague as "This will heat a room* *fine print results may vary" A big fuckoff gas separated combustion heater that came with my garage. The PO must have run it throughout the winter, but its a cinder block garage with no insulation and drafty doors so I took the thermostat off and wired up a wall switch and only run it when I'm working in the garage. e: Like the one BrokenKnucklez posted, just bigger and from 1970.
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Dec 13, 2010 08:22
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mod sassinator posted:My condo flooded and the HF aluminum jack was basically submerged in water. It's dry now and I'm not worried about the aluminum corroding but is there anything else that might have problems? Might want to change the hydraulic fluid, its a good bet water worked its way into the hydraulic system. Geoj fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Dec 29, 2010 |
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Dec 28, 2010 19:28
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Raluek posted:e: Anyone got any ideas what you're gonna use that 25% off any item coupon for on new years day? I don't think it applies to sale/clearance prices, but isn't that up to the cashier? What's the deal with coupon and sale prices, anyway? If they'll let me, on this: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/impact-wrenches/1-2-half-inch-compact-air-impact-wrench-94802.html My friend's a diesel mechanic, he bought one and says its just as good as his $250 IR model that its basically a clone of.
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Dec 31, 2010 08:02
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If you use epoxy just make sure you get high-quality stuff, generally speaking the longer the cure time the stronger its going to be after setting up. Avoid anything that has a "5 minute working time/20 minute cure time" or similar.
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Jan 5, 2011 18:13
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Uh...maybe use a crowfoot on the torque wrench? Probably won't be accurate but it should be enough to get you in the ballpark.
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Jan 24, 2011 19:30
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Diesel_Doc posted:On the other hand, if you have $200 to spend on something cool, then Matco's MCR102A cooling system refiller is the way to go. It uses an air compressor to first vacuum the air out of the cooling system (it's awesome to watch all the hoses suck together), then after it's done you can close all the valves and watch the gauge to see if the system is holding the vacuum. This way you can see that it has no leaks. After you confirm that there are no leaks you can stick one of the hoses into a jug of fresh coolant and open the valves, and the releasing of the vacuum will pull the coolant into the system and fill it completely without allowing air pockets to form. It really is an awesome tool and every shop should have one. My friend's mother-in-law works for Matco and gets a p hefty discount...I might have to get one of those.
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Feb 7, 2011 17:42
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Rhyno posted:O'reilly just started opening stores here Get ready for one to pop up everywhere there's a chain auto parts store. They've exploded here (NE Ohio) recently.
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Mar 7, 2011 06:02
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I also like their policy of giving you the code scanner instead of pulling the codes and then trying to talk you into buying whatever the computer says needs to be replaced.
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Mar 7, 2011 06:46
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Skyssx posted:They bought Murray's chain and co-opted the signage. There weren't many (any?) of those in the greater Akron area. In the last three months they've opened several new stores right next door to all of the existing Autozones and Advance Auto Parts. The term "popping up like weeds" comes to mind. Geoj fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Mar 7, 2011 |
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Mar 7, 2011 18:04
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On the plastidip topic - anyone know how it sticks to fake chrome trim pieces? I have a 2010 Fusion for a company car and I hate the three acre chrome upper grille. I'm thinking about spraying it with plastidip since I could just peel it off once its time to turn the car in...does it stick to all surfaces equally or some better than others?
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Mar 12, 2011 01:51
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wav3form posted:You could also just do vinyl. If I was keeping the car I'd consider it. I'm looking for the lowest cost option here since once the OD rolls over 85,000 they start the process of replacing it.
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Mar 12, 2011 03:39
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While we're on the topic of jacks, I have a Craftsman 3 ton floor jack that I bought on sale at Sears 3-4 years ago. Lately it only raises on the last half to third of the downstroke and the piston doesn't seem to be returning fully to its start position. Could this be a sign of low hydraulic fluid? The piston appears to return to its start position via a spring. Any ideas?
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Mar 16, 2011 01:02
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Any idea where I could find a replacement for this: Its a bushing/spacer out of a Contour Zetec valve cover. The cover has 10 bolt holes, each one requiring said bushing. I got four with the cover, need at least six more. I found a nylon flanged sleeve bearing on McMaster-Carr that is a very close match (I think it was 1/16" off length-wise) but I'm not sure how well they'd hold up at relatively high temperature and constant exposure to oil. And they're $7.50 each... Can't get them from Ford, dealers don't stock them any more/I'd have to pay through the nose from one of a handful that still has a bag of them in stock. Seems to me there should be an off-the-shelf replacement out there somewhere...ideas? E: meaurements: 1/4" ID 3/8" OD 5/8" L Flange is 9/16" wide x 1/16" thick Geoj fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Mar 26, 2011 |
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Mar 26, 2011 20:13
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PBCrunch posted:A junkyard will definitely have something Zetec powered. The other three use different valve covers. To clarify, I'm putting a Contour valve cover on a Focus (which uses a ho-hum plastic cover.)
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Mar 27, 2011 05:27
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Well looks like I'm off to the local junkyard, or else spend $130 on this: http://www.massivespeedsystem.com/_massive_speed_system_/massive_trophy_valve_cover_hardware_kit/g-59030.aspx which I guess isn't that bad of a deal, comes with a $30 gasket, the bushings and an oil filler cap that looks a lot better than the plastic one it came with...
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Mar 27, 2011 06:06
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^ I bought a Craftsman 1/2" drive five years ago and its never given me any problems. Most critical job I ever used it for was torquing the flywheel bolts on my Focus, but I did end up lending it to a friend of mine who's a diesel mechanic when he changed jobs from a shop that provided all his tools to one that didn't. He said on the first day he compared it against a matco wrench someone else had and it was +/- 1 ft-lb. I think I paid $65 on sale...looks like they're $80 at Sears now.
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Mar 30, 2011 04:36
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Brain Issues posted:I have a Harbor Freight 1/2" drive torque wrench that I got for $9.99. My father works for a pneumatic and hydraulic manufacturer that has highly critical torque specs and I asked him to calibrate my Harbor Frieght torque wrench for me. They did their testing on it, and it tested within +-3% accurate.. and this was after I'd used it several times. drat good for a $9.99 torque wrench. Though, who knows for how long it will stay that accurate, I was pretty drat impressed with its initial quality. I'd be careful with HF torque wrenches. I bought one before I had the Craftsman...when I was installing an exhaust header I gave my less than mechanically inclined friend who was assisting me the job of torquing the header bolts with it, and he wrenched away until he sheared off the bolt head (and the wrench never clicked.) I'd probably test its function before using it on anything critical. Also, define "not too expensive." Torque wrenches run a p wide price range, from $10-1000 and probably higher than that if you get into aerospace grade tools.
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Mar 30, 2011 04:48
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^ FWIW the starter function on the 10/2/55 charger is next to useless unless you're helping a battery that's just under the threshold of being able to start a car on its own. I have one...over the winter I needed to jump the lawn tractor I use to plow my driveway and the single cylinder engine caused the charger's thermal breaker to pop when it was 15 degrees outside. Works great otherwise. Geoj fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Apr 26, 2011 |
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Apr 26, 2011 17:11
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oxbrain posted:It's also pretty good at reviving batteries that have been sitting too long. It cycles high-low amps to break up the scale on the plates. Is that an intended feature of the charger or just a side effect of cheap chinese-made electronics?
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Apr 26, 2011 21:14
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Your Dead Gay Son posted:So this looks really great to me, I wanted to know what other people's opinions were? HF's lineup is something of a crap shoot. Most of their handtools are decent, but that said its kind of hard to gently caress up something simple like a hammer or socket set. Their power tools are somewhat questionable, some of them will work fine, others you'll be lucky to finish the first job you use them for. If you're looking to buy something that's going to last a long time or get used daily HF isn't the best place to go, but if you go into it with the mindset that they're for the most part selling cheap chinese-made stuff (and don't get disappointed when your $20 reciprocating saw dies three hours after you bought it) their stuff isn't half bad.
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May 19, 2011 19:13
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Splizwarf posted:Be prepared to return anything you buy. On this tangent, if you're looking at something that's on the high side and/or you expect to use it frequently it doesn't hurt to buy the replacement plan they try to sell you at checkout. In my experience the stores are very lax on reasons for taking items back. I've also found their airtools are fairly high quality. For an example, a friend of mine works as a diesel mechanic and found that the $40 Central Pneumatic compact 1/2" drive impact wrench HF sells is a dead ringer for his $260 IR compact 1/2" drive impact wrench.
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May 20, 2011 02:25
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I actually prefer my Toro electric leafblower (~$45 at most home improvement stores) over a compressor for blowing out electronics. Its also nice to have to blow out your garage (turns on instantly and no lingering mix gas exhaust smell) and I use it when I'm drying my car after washing to drive water out of all of the nooks and crannies that it inevitably drips out of two hours later while driving.
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May 21, 2011 22:30
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eddiewalker posted:It worked to bench bleed my junked MC, but I want a way to read tank pressure before I try it on the car because 20psi max seems to be the prevailing opinion. Ideas? Tire pressure gauges aren't usually designed to give constantly updating measurements. I'd like to keep cost down because I'm under $20 so far. I think you'd have to be dealing with some seriously high pressure before you'd be in any danger of damaging your brake hydraulic system. If you're paranoid though any low pressure (topping out at 100-125 PSI) gauge would do the trick. Something like this. You could just drill a hole in the bottle slightly smaller than the connector on the gauge, screw it in and then epoxy over the connector on the outside (inside too if you can reach it, taking care to not cover the hole that allows the gauge to function.)
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May 24, 2011 20:51
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InitialDave posted:The system, yes, but the master cylinder reservoir, especially if it's a plastic one, isn't going to like high pressures. Motronic posted:...but it's really unlikely you'll hurt anything with any pressure you're going to get out of a hand pumped plastic spray bottle. This. I have one of the Motive power bleeders he's trying to duplicate on the cheap. It has a pressure gauge, and by the time the gauge is over 30 PSI it becomes difficult to continue pumping. Furthermore, if you generate enough pressure to make the brake fluid reservoir explode what's stopping the bottle from the sprayer from likewise exploding? And if that's not enough, the weakest point of failure on his homemade power bleeder is the barbed connector on the reservoir lid. The hose will pop off and release pressure long before you're anywhere close to blowing up the reservoir.
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May 25, 2011 01:42
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meatpimp posted:Why would you possibly need to pump to that kind of pressure? I've used the Motiv bleeder with less than 10psi and had substantial flow out of the bleeders. So you can do all four corners without stopping to repressurize the bleeder...? Also, I never said "I pump my power bleeder until the needle on the pressure gauge stops moving, every time I use it" just illustrating a point in regards to the "you're going to pop your master cylinder reservoir" comments.
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May 25, 2011 02:55
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grover posted:Anyone used those endoscopes HF sells? Given how ubiquitous inexpensive CCD video cameras and small LCD screens have become I think these would fall under the category of "safe to buy at HF because its hard to gently caress up." Odds are they're buying the circuit boards and cameras from whoever makes them in China for major name brands and throwing them in "Cen-Tech" bodies. Black88GTA posted:Been pretty happy with it, although I haven't had much occasion to use it yet. This is the reason I haven't pulled the trigger on one yet. I can imagine its fun to have but I can count the number of things I would have an immediate need to have one for on one hand. Geoj fucked around with this message at 22:20 on May 27, 2011 |
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May 27, 2011 22:17
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oxbrain posted:4.2cfm@90psi continuous for two minutes is a lot of air. I thought the general consensus on here for an air compressor that's being used for anything besides filling tires, blowing dust out of electronics or running an air nailer was 7+ SCFM @ 90 PSI...?
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May 29, 2011 19:21
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^ If you can't get access to a good compressor & impact wrench you're likely going to end up needing one of these and an appropriate size impact socket for that job.
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May 29, 2011 20:43
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^ Is a gas powered compressor likewise out of the question? Most tool rental places should have them (assuming you don't want to buy one permanently), as they're fairly popular with roofing and flooring crews working on houses that haven't had their electrical hooked up yet.
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Jun 7, 2011 03:11
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NE Ohio. I worked for four years for two different interior trim wholesalers that did deliveries for homebuilders that did McMansion developments. It wasn't that common, but on more than one occasion I saw both types of crews with a gas-powered compressor. Probably more economical since gas powered compressors only have to run on demand and not constantly like a gas generator. Also a lot of the developments we delivered to were 70+% finished with a large majority of the homes already being lived in, and I'm sure the field office would get complaints if a crew had a generator running all day. Geoj fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Jun 7, 2011 |
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Jun 7, 2011 03:34
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You might also try the rental section at Home Depot.
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Jun 7, 2011 17:41
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You could do something like this but if you're just using it to pull and clear codes you're only going to be using a tiny percentage of its features. I guess for the price you can't go wrong, because even cheap code scanners are still in the $60 range.
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Jun 7, 2011 19:51
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Are the Pittsburgh torque wrenches they have at Harbor Freight good enough to use? They are clickers, rather than beam ones, at pretty much the same price as the Sears beam one linked up-page, so I'm a bit worried. Depends on what you're doing. It is just putting lug nuts on or other non-precision fasteners (where "close enough" is fine) go for it, but I wouldn't put an engine back together with one.
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Jun 12, 2011 02:11
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There's also a $60 off coupon in the June HF ad for that jack...
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Jun 12, 2011 19:24
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sharkytm posted:same warranty I think HF's warranty is better because they don't fight you tooth and nail on it. I've never had an experience with HF where it was anything but walk in with broken tool and walk out with new tool five minutes later, no questions asked. Sears OTOH is a crap shoot.
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Jun 14, 2011 21:46
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