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I just bought these two guys at the HF in Roanoke! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=92782 and http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=45252 The jack was more than I wanted to spend but they were out of the cheap racing jack and this one I got is beastly! Quality is very nice and I can finally jack up my VW without having to roll onto pieces of wood! The electric impact is something I just wanted to try out and a lot of people seem to like it. I won't be doing much other than removing lugs with it and maybe some suspension bits when I put on coilovers this summer. Very happy with my new toys. 
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Mar 28, 2010 00:02
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MetaJew posted:What jack stands do all of you guys use? I'm tired of crushing the pinch seams on my car, and I haven't found much in the way of unibody-friendly stands. I use some Craftsman jack stands that i've owned for like 10 years. All of my cars have been unibody and there is always a place to put stands. You shouldn't use the pinch welds for stands.
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Mar 29, 2010 00:12
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MetaJew posted:My FSM says otherwise (and says to use some non-existant stand adapter). I suppose I could put stands under the front cross-member where the jacking point is, but I prefer the idea of having the stands spaced as far apart as possible. As far as the rear end goes, I have absolutely no idea where else you could put the jack stands, since the jack point is the differential housing. (If anyone has an S14 240sx and has better suggestions I'd be glad to hear them.) I see... My VW has a few good spots for jack stands but I suppose other cars may not. What do other owners of 240SXs do???
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Mar 29, 2010 10:14
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MetaJew posted:On the S13 the stand point is actually the frame rails. However, on the S14 (what I have), the frame rails are not structural components (read: paper thin) so that's out. I googled and other owners use the subframe. Here's a link I found with an official looking picture from a manual of some kind. http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/25070...-placement.html You can make the special jack stand pad thing out of hockey pucks or some hard wood to use on the pinch welds. Just some ideas...
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Mar 30, 2010 21:31
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BigKOfJustice posted:Any recommendations for a aluminum service jack? That's serviceable? The 2 companies I buy shop jacks from doesn't have an aluminum model. Get the Harbor Freight. I have this one and it's very well made and gets the job done. Then again I don't race in the desert. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=40105
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Apr 8, 2010 00:30
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frozenphil posted:Why would you recommend a jack with a 1.5 ton capacity to a dude asking about a 3 ton jack? My bad... I had 3000 pounds stuck in my head and his question had a 3 in it and I wasn't paying attention. It is a nice jack for regular cars though. 
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Apr 8, 2010 20:47
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Black88GTA posted:I will be the voice of dissonance here, and say that I love my HF 19.2v cordless impact wrench. It isn't lovely at all, and hasn't let me down yet. My Harbor Freight electric impact wrench is a god send. It's the corded one but drat if it isn't one of the best tools I've ever bought.
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May 31, 2010 04:58
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Ripoff posted:I wish I could afford goddamn Snap-On tools. My grandfather was a construction machine and dump truck mechanic at one time and has some loving amazing tools. I learned the value of Snap-On the other day when my Harbor Freight drum brake tool crapped out in the middle of my spring change and I had to run to his place to borrow it. What took me about 5 minutes to accomplish by trying to line up the spring stretcher on the HF special took me literally 10 seconds with the Snap-On. It seems they just thought everything out when they made it, every cut and forged piece fitting perfectly making drat near everything I did incredibly simple. Here you go... 30 bucks, no bids yet. Nobody says you have to buy new. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SNAP...sQ5fAccessories
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Jul 31, 2010 20:47
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I will never be able to afford Snap-On tools.
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:If your soldering skills are crap, then the joint will crack. A lot of people submit to "the bigger the glob, the better the job" method and just slap it on without good wet solder tension. Be sure to use a no-clean flux when soldering insulated wire... stranded or not. Flux is corrosive and can cause damage over time. Not a problem on easily cleaned components but flux wicking up past wire insulation is not good if it's anything but no-clean.
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Nov 19, 2010 02:00
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Lowclock posted:How is the feel on the release of the aluminum racing jack from HF that everyone recommends? I've got an old craftsman jack that lifts poo poo fine and doesn't leak or anything, but it's annoying as gently caress to have to use a big pair of channel locks on the bar to get enough leverage to lower it slowly instead of just snapping open and free falling. I like the way the release feels and with the large knurled handle you have some good control over it.
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Dec 28, 2010 02:32
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I get coupon codes in my email like every day from HF. Just join their thing on the website and you'll get more coupon codes then you can deal with. If I had one in my town i'd be broke.
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Feb 24, 2011 02:39
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NinjaTech posted:Does anyone know of any stores that carry the red plasti dip spray? I've only seen black at homedepot and harbor freight. I need to paint my bumpers on my Impreza and was thinking red might match pretty well, or at least be different. I might just do the whole car with it. Ace Hardware near me has the red color. Not sure if you have any of those around you but it's worth a shot.
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Mar 12, 2011 02:23
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Geoj posted:On the plastidip topic - anyone know how it sticks to fake chrome trim pieces? I have a 2010 Fusion for a company car and I hate the three acre chrome upper grille. I'm thinking about spraying it with plastidip since I could just peel it off once its time to turn the car in...does it stick to all surfaces equally or some better than others? You should sand the location down but you could get away with cleaning it real well with alcohol. I think the key to longevity is to spray the front and back so you don't have plastidip edges that can start to peel. You could also just do vinyl.
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Mar 12, 2011 02:31
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Goldmund posted:I'm in the market for a floor jack and some jack stands. HF has a coupon for the aluminum floor jack in the OP for $60. Am I right in guessing that it's not going to be able to handle a full size Blazer? If not should I grab this 4000lb model instead? For jack stands, is this 3 ton set ok? I have the same jack but I use it on my camaro and for 60 bucks it's a great deal. Never had issues with it and it's been fantastic. I don't know what a full size Blazer weighs but you might want a beefier jack for a truck. I just use ramps when changing oil and set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Just depends on how much clearance you need.
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Mar 15, 2011 22:39
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Skyssx posted:I got this a year or two ago and it's been great. It has good modulation so the car doesn't slam down on to the jack stands. I don't use jack stands when changing oil... because I don't jack up the car. I just roll or reach underneath and do everything I need. My 99 dodge dakota is like that... just high enough where I can get under it and do an oil change without lifting it up. Wonder if you can do that with a Blazer???
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Mar 15, 2011 23:47
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Brigdh posted:I've heard from a couple of different people that Sears does this, yet I've never had it happen to me (they always grab a new one off the shelf). Any idea what gives? I've always gotten new tools from sears as replacements. I suppose it depends on the store.
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Apr 13, 2011 00:59
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mod sassinator posted:I need to finish some kitchen cabinets this weekend and am looking for a simple miter box & saw to cut toekicks & trim. Anyone have experience with Harbor Freight hand tools like this http://www.harborfreight.com/miter-...-saw-66562.html ? I bought something like this at Lowes and it works but cutting trim like base molding with it isn't much fun... especially at a 45 degree angle. Rent a power miter saw if you can... it'll do much better for you.
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Apr 26, 2011 21:04
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RapeWhistle posted:Anyone try out the harbor freight engine support bar? I just need it to support my 1.8l M42 in an e30 while I drop the front subframe. Unfortunately I don't have the room in this loving single car garage for an engine crane or I'd make the investment. I haven't but you could use two blocks of wood and a pipe but the bar would be easier since it's already together.
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May 4, 2011 22:44
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PitViper posted:Any recommendations for a low-profile floor jack? The one I have now works great for my truck and regular vehicles, but my car is about an inch too low to clear it. I'm thinking about the HF 2-ton aluminum jack, but I'm waiting for a same or big coupon before I pick it up. I have a harbor freight aluminum racing jack that is low profile and works great. I use rhino ramps as well and I have to drive on some 1/2" wood to clear my front bumper.
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May 16, 2011 23:17
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heat posted:I got this ClampTool as a gift after seeing it on Cool Tools and it's pretty sweet: I just read the "how does it work" and for gently caress's sake, it's easier to just buy a proper clamp.
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Sep 3, 2011 02:42
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heat posted:It looks complicated but it's really not, and you can get it much tighter than a normal clamp After i looked at it a few times it made more sense and I can see the benefit of having this thing. Not sure I would ever use it but you never know.
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Sep 6, 2011 00:30
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revmoo posted:I'm probably going to be picking up an electric impact wrench this weekend. Is the $50 harbor freight one w/ 230 lb/ft a good one? That's the one I have and it's great for removing lug nuts and other easily accessible fasteners. Oh and it's loud as poo poo like that other guy said.
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Sep 17, 2011 04:35
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revmoo posted:Yeah the red and silver one. Mine rips off lug nuts no problem. Maybe you got a dud?
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Sep 17, 2011 23:41
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Flukes are great and we use them at work but check out Beckman as another quality meter.
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Apr 2, 2012 21:09
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stevobob posted:Got these yesterday! I loving LOVE tools! I used a gear wrench for the very first time when installing new front seats in my '02 Z28. The rear bolts can't be accessed by a standard socket as the seats are laid out a bit differently and the ratcheting part saved my rear end about 20 minutes of wrenching. Otherwise it would have been... place wrench on nut, turn nut 1/8th of an inch due to clearance, take wrench off, try to find nut again, found, turn 1/8th of an inch and repeat. I'm now replacing all my wrenches for the ratcheting kind.
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Apr 20, 2012 21:16
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Bang Me Please posted:No don't. Well I'm not throwing the other ones away if that's what you're thinking.
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Apr 21, 2012 04:46
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