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sharkytm posted:Have you lubed them up? First rule of Harbor Freight: you didn't buy something that's ready to use. As soon as you're done fixing it, it will work reasonably well. I love that place.
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Jan 17, 2009 00:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:Mityvac vacuum pump / bleeder kit. Holy poo poo, might be the best $30 I've ever spent at Harbor Freight. Spend $65 or so on a Motive pressure bleeder. I have both, and they both have their place. Bleeding clutches and brakes with the motive is SO drat easy, and you get really good pedal feel the first time. I've even done a new master cylinder with no bench bleeding on the first shot and had it turn out great. Clutches might be easier to bleed on the Miata, but they are a royal PITA on the 944. The vac method is better than pumping it, but just barely. With the pressure bleeder, it's no problem at all.
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Jan 17, 2009 00:46
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oxbrain posted:The sears here gives you a repaired tool out of a bin. You turn in a 20 year old ratchet and they give you a butter steel replacement. That's what I got offered on a 3 month old ratchet that was bad. I said "No way. I'd like to see a manager." He came over, I told him that was totally not acceptable (nicely but forcefully) and he said that he understood - let's go get a new one for you. Stand up for yourself. It works.
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Jan 17, 2009 00:48
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meltie posted:...but you do not want to be using 12-point sockets on a breaker-bar candidate bolt. 
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Jan 17, 2009 00:56
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oxbrain posted:When I bring my 25 year old craftsman ratchet in I want it repaired and returned to me. Their quality has been on a steady decline since the mid '90s and their current stock is barely on par with harbor freight. Should have mentioned that - on another run in there, I had one of my grandfather's ratchets. They gave me a rebuild kit for it for free. I'd rather do that myself than let the 16 year old mouth breather behind the counter do it.
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Jan 18, 2009 18:22
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kimbo305 posted:This is a tools stupid question but I figured it might be better answered here than in the stupid qs thread. Doesn't sound like the grease it getting where it's supposed to go. You know you have enough in there when the oozes out of the part that is supposed to be getting lubricated, not from around the zerk. You might have some caked up crap in there that's not letting the grease get through. Try putting as much pressure on it as possible so the grease won't come out between the coupler and the zerk, and it should eventually break free - it will get easier to grease, and then you'll see all the old crap squeezing out from where its supposed to. Once you see some new grease coming out, you're done.
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Jan 18, 2009 18:25
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kimbo305 posted:Is holding the coupler down hard on the zerk ok? I mean I could do that but I'm not sure it would seal that side well enough to force grease through. It's "OK" as in it won't break anything unless you have something broken/ready to break already. But it also won't make a great seal no matter what. If that doesn't work, you can always try taking the zerk out and replacing it (they are just threaded in, and easily/cheaply found at a decent auto parts store). Hopefully the crud is in the zerk. If not, you need to deal with the problem differently based on exactly what this zerk is going to.
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Jan 18, 2009 20:02
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InitialDave posted:What you need is an adaptor of some kind that screws onto the grease gun at one end, and onto the threaded hole where the nipple goes at the other, that way the grease can't go anywhere except into the assembly. Good point. I'm sure something can be pieced together, if somebody doesn't already make something like that. I've never NOT been able to make a grease fitting work by hitting the whole area with Kroil and possibly replacing the Zerk. Almost every time just jamming the gun on as hard as possible and ramming some grease in has taken care of it.
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Jan 19, 2009 03:12
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IOwnCalculus posted:Get a MityVac at HF for $30. I picked one up to do the clutch master on my Miata and I'm never doing anything with hydraulics any other way ever again. Until you buy a Motive pressure bleeder for $50 and realize it CAN get better. I use both when I'm working on different things, but I never bleed clutches or brakes with the Mitivac anymore. You get much better pedal feel, and it makes doing large amounts easy. I'll swap all of my brake fluid once a year (I use ATE Super Blue one year, and Gold the next). All you have to do is dump the can in the Motive and pump it up once it's hooked up. You can do a complete fluid change without even bothering with re-pumping or filling the MC.
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Jan 25, 2009 16:02
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trouser chili posted:It's ok. Changing tires, running the air ratchets(iffy), inflating tires. But it shakes itself to pieces and everything has broken on it at least once and sometimes it just refuses to run. The tank only inflates on mine to 105psi indicated. So it's weezing right out the gate, and I don't feel there is any way it's pushing 5 SCFM @ 90 PSI. I have this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93271 Its garbage, but for $110 on sale, it's just fine. I painted my car with it, and had enough the entire time with an HVLP gun. Same issue as yours though...it's 115 PSI so for ratchets you're starting out bad, and getting worse. Using a D/A with it was a challenge - I spent a LOT of time waiting for it to re-fill.
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Feb 23, 2009 22:18
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trouser chili posted:Mostly garage work. I pulled the motor with the old tank, running impacts, air ratchets here and there. Air hammers/chisels. I'd like to strip the bed of the truck and repaint it. I'd like to cut out my rockers to weld new-ones in. Things like that. Occasionally I'd take it out with me to do other work like sandblasting or chiseling concrete. I'll probably be using it to chisel the concrete off the posts of my old fence when I dig it out this summer. Yeah..the problem with making the biggest 120v you can find portable is that you won't likely have an extension cord big enough to deal with it. The highest poer 120v are likely going to need a 20A circuit anyway, so to get that to be "yard portable" as opposed to bringing to somewhere else with an outlet close is that you'll need a $150 extension cord for any kind of distance. Besides, why would you use a small air compressor to chisel concrete? It would be quite miserable. Go to Home Depot or Lowes and rent a hammer drill that only draws 5 or 10 amps and you can use a regular old outdoor extension cord for it. Also, you WON'T be sandblasting with any 120v compressor. Unless you are sandblasting with a detail gun.
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Feb 25, 2009 02:43
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Kynetx posted:Porsche? I remember running across a few 944s that had Al lugnuts. Mine has them. I think all of the Porsches that came with Fuchs has aluminum lug nuts. I've got a nylon-lined socket that doesn't scratch the hell out of them. And, yeah....no air tools. 3 cracked ones were in the glove box when I bought the car. I was told by the PO that the moron at the tire shop used an air ratchet and did that. He replaced the 3 that broke. I threw them ALL out and replaced all 20 on the car.
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Mar 17, 2009 18:14
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I love my 3/8" air ratchet. I use it all the time. I'm not sure there really is a cordless replacement to it. But even most of what I do with a 1/2" impact can be done with a cordless now. I didn't believe it, until a friend with some dinky looking Makita cordless impact outran my air impact. Ridiculous.
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Jun 21, 2009 16:24
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Naky posted:http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/IS/Category.aspx-am_en-30842 Now that's pretty awesome. And it looks like it can be had for less than a decent air driven one. drat you. Now I have to buy more tools.
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Jun 21, 2009 17:05
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blankooie posted:Proto is good stuff. Most of them are the same as MAC. I heard they used to be Snap On, and now they are Mac (re branded stuff). Anyone know if that's actually the case?
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Jul 21, 2009 21:47
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sharkytm posted:If all you are doing is swapping wheels and tires, a HF torque wrench is fine. If you are rebuilding an engine, buy something decent. No point saving $50 on a torque wrench, and blowing $500 on a main bearing failing. I've done heads and much more with my Craftsman 3/8 torque wrench. I don't know how well it will stay calibrated or even how to reasonably test it, but I try to remember to leave it a 0 when I'm done with it. I've been thinking of getting a HF 1/2" so that I can do wheels and the other 2 places I actually need more torque than the craftsman 3/8 will do (rear hubs and crank bolt) so I don't need to borrow one, and I just can't see how a few pounds either way will make that much of a difference over 155 ft/lbs.
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Jul 21, 2009 22:31
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 19:55 |
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mod sassinator posted:So I just rounded off my oil drain plug bolt. If you can get a pipe wrench on it, it will do the trick for you. If not, try the vice grips.
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Aug 9, 2009 15:36
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There's one good side left that I can probably get some vice grips on, anyone think that will work? How well do those gator grip sockets work?