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The Ultimate MIG welder Panasonic Gunslinger 261 It took Miller many years to catch up to what this thing can do. Can be had for around 1600 dollars while the Miller equivalent costs poo poo tons more. What people forget is Panasonic makes robotic welders to build cars, this is child's play for them. If you need to burn down something thick, and like to pulse weld (not lovely bead line crap) this is for you.
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Apr 22, 2008 06:48
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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We have a few Snap-On electric drills at work. They are expensive and eat batteries. I think the drills were 400 dollars. They throw tons of torque, more than a pneumatic, but they have already gone in for repairs after a year of use. There is no electric impact that I have seen that can come close to a pneumatic.
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Apr 26, 2008 14:36
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poisoned pie posted:can anyone recommend me what sort of compressor I should be looking at for painting a car? I'm going to start with laying some killrust down, so any info on different spray guns and stuff would be useful also. Later on Ill be painting the car body from primer to base coat to top coat to clear coat. I painted with a red Craftsman 110v 30 gal compressor. It was a 100% duty cycle, more specially the manual stated it could run for 45mins straight. The key to running a small compressor is to have a good gun. I was using an Aiwata LPH 400 for my base coat and clear coat, hell i even shot primer through it (the tip wasn't the right size for primer, but it worked). The gun was able to keep a nice flow even when the compressor was sweatin' away with the PSI dipping into the 50's. I have to re body work some sections as the over fenders have shifted slightly. I'm a bit pissed about that, but overall I'm happy since it is a track car... that has yet to see the track. Here it is, man I feel like I'm whoring this thing out too much lately. The white lines are not paint, it is from wet sanding and polishing.  edit: ventilation, ventilation, ventilation. This is drat important. Along with keeping things clean. My garage became a paint booth. The day before I painted I swept the floor clean, I didn't bother dusting off anything else. I covered everything with drop cloths, and coated the floor with them. I kept the garage door only open enough so that I could close it on top of a box fan at one side, I also cracked open the side door of the garage. The wind had to be perfectly still to do this. Use a new hose and flush it out with brake cleaner. I had two hoses. One connected to the compressor, coiled upright. The end of that was connected to a water and oil seperator, then the 2nd hose was connected to that. followed by my gun with a filter and regulator attached to it. I really would want to stay away from an oil compressor unless you are using crazy quality filters and spent tons on the compressor, the craftsman was great because I didn't have to worry about oil contamination. Keep silicate products AWAY from your booth. check autobody101.com for your needs. a bunch of old timers on there that know their poo poo. edit2: on clears, I used two types. The PPG clear is about 260 a gallon with the hardener. I ran out because I messed up and needed only a quart more, PPG only came in gallons so I got some Dupont. From looking at two dried "spills" of both, the Dupont was more clear than the PPG, and in my amature opinion it laid out easier. I don't know what the Dupont costs, but I would recommend it. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Apr 26, 2008 |
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Apr 26, 2008 17:12
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. A list of stuff I should shop for to paint my car would be awesome 
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BigKOfJustice posted:Any suggestions for riveting tools? I use a hand riveter by craftsman on a regular basis if I can't get to an air line.
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Jun 14, 2008 03:11
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ease posted:Dremel tools are good for taking down toe nails. thats all they are good for when you have a good cut off wheel.
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Jul 8, 2008 22:02
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two_beer_bishes posted:What should I look for in a pneumatic impact wrench? The prices range from $30-300+ and I just want to make sure I'm not getting a piece of poo poo... what drive? The Ingersol Rand Titanium n Torque is a fine mother fucker edit: whoops didn't see your purchase. Leaving the the name up for those that want to spend more. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Dec 22, 2008 |
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Dec 22, 2008 22:56
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:
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Dec 30, 2008 06:06
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Have you guys seen the new Snap-On 17mm? But seriously, since we've had some crimp tool talk, anyone know of a decent crimper for Tyco/AMP connectors that won't break my balls in price? Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 00:29 on May 20, 2010 |
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May 20, 2010 00:25
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RealKyleH posted:Do you mean a regular pin and socket connector and you need to crimp the contacts? What wire barrel sizes? 20-16 awg
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May 20, 2010 02:29
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RealKyleH posted:I am assuming youre not doing a good number of these or youre doing a variety. I am suggesting the cheapest option. There's probably better options. This will get you 4-indent crimping with milspec tools for ~$120 though. The best option for value if youre doing a good number of similar contacts is a new frame bought on eBay then having us putting the positioner(s) you need into a proper head. We may already have the positioners developed and its just a matter of sticking them in a head for you. this is good stuff, I'm using pin 171662-5
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May 20, 2010 17:02
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RealKyleH posted:IIf youre just using one contact you can use a TP head that just has one positioner and is much cheaper. I have some other weird stuff that a universal would benefit. But for the most part yeah that is the only pin I am using. You don't happen to have any secret crazy inside supply to Tyco connectors do you?
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May 20, 2010 21:55
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RealKyleH posted:One more thing, would you need I&R tools or just to crimp the contacts? Whatcha buildin? Wire harness. My main problem is just finding the drat plastic connectors in low quantities. I've had some luck with the Tyco stuff, but the Sumitomo poo poo I need has been a real tough battle. I don't mind buying 100 or so of each, but when they want over 1000 each its a bit insane. I&R tools? only IR I know of is IngersolRand
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May 20, 2010 22:39
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Ah yeah I&R tools would be great. I've worked with Deutsch connectors when I wired up sand rails. Really good stuff and we only got to use them on the show cars because it was expensive stuff. I really wish I could just switch everything over to different connectors but these connectors plug directly into the sensors. =( I've been slowly sourcing parts for a year now, but it seems a few connectors will have to be reused. I'd like to start selling mill spec harnesses for the RX-7 but it seems I'll have to get a "core" harness from a customer to re-use a few connectors. I've got MS wire coming in and I've been eyeballing the aircraft connectors with 60+ pins to mount to the firewall. I've been debating Raychem heatshrink but I think that is a bit overkill.
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May 20, 2010 23:44
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Sgt Fox posted:These guys may have the connectors you are looking for. I got some to match my early style mazda connectors: I've bought some of the old style stuff from beaver before, and bmo doesn't have what I need. I've been all over the internet, made phone calls, all I keep getting is the ol' thousands qty minimum order, and that is if they even want to work with an end user, most of these people want to talk to a business. How do these places expect to move these boxes of dated connector housings? Anyway here is the pin I will be working with, will that tool work with a non barrel? 
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May 21, 2010 03:41
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RealKyleH posted:Just checked my system and didnt see anything but that doesnt mean one doesnt exist. Try calling in and see if sales can get you more info. Then check eBay for whatever tool frame. It is a 4 indent crimp tool, it is meant to crimp contacts like I was talking about earlier. You would need an "F" crimp for stamped and formed contacts which we dont do heavily yet. I just grabbed some "universal" open barrel ratchet crimpers from ebay. I had a $50 dollar ebay gift card so I decided free is good when I'm totally broke. I will definitely look into your barrel crimpers when I've got more cash since I would like to do the firewall plug. CornHolio posted:I'm almost certain Wire Design has these as we use AMP/TYCP connectors regularly and we buy harnesses from them. They're local to us, but might be worth a shot if you have trouble finding them elsewhere. i'll see if they got what I need as far as connector housings, thanks. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 17:04 on May 21, 2010 |
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May 21, 2010 17:02
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hah, oh god. Well what did you pay for it? I might buy it off of you, but I really don't have the need for that tool just yet, just entertaining the thought. edit: oh i see you are keeping it, never mind.
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May 28, 2010 01:35
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screwdrivers are also the tool that disappears the most. I don't know how many I've bought (20+) but I can only account for about 5 in my toolbox right now.
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May 28, 2010 21:29
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frozenphil posted:Don't spend money on a welder if its name isn't Lincoln, Miller, or possibly Hobart; not if you want to weld with it anyway. Bullshit, Panasonic puts all them to shame.
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Jun 10, 2010 14:29
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frozenphil posted:I thought this thread was about hobbyist tools, not industrial robots.  BigKOfJustice posted:What Panasonic do you use? Gunslinger? yup. At the time our head welder went to Miller, hosed with a few parts and set up something that could almost do what the Gunslinger did. Now as far as I know it took them years later to get something to weld like the Panasonic, but it costs around 3x as much. There was a time where we could get these things on ebay for around 1700 dollars, now I think they float around 2400. I know of an owner of a fabrication school that is sponsored by Miller, he has Miller all over the school's shop, but his own personal welder at home is a Panasonic. The main reason for using these welders was for pulse welding. Many people tried to copy the pulse welding the shop I worked for, but their welds were always cold. The Panasonic would throw ungodly amounts of hell at what you were trying to weld while making it buttery smooth at the same time. They did require some tweaking on the pots on the mainboard to do a proper pulse weld. At least that's what I was lead to believe, I never did the new purchase setup. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Jun 12, 2010 |
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Jun 12, 2010 07:24
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frozenphil posted:Come on, now. That's way overkill for basically everyone in this forum. If you need something with that kind of beef (and price tag) you aren't asking what kind of welder to get in here. I understand they are a quality welder, but unless you find one at a garage sale or on craigslist for a massive price markdown you're probably better off looking for Miller, Lincoln, or some of the Hobart welders that are widely available. It might be a bit much for most, but 2,000 dollars (theweldingstore.com) aint all that bad for a welder that can be as good or even beat a 6,000 dollar welder. Just thought id open up some peoples eyes if they are going to drop some large cash on a welder. Maybe being around these things has affected how I see "hobby" welders. Using other welders just becomes frustrating. In fact I need a welder, I haven't bought one yet because I'm saving for one of these for my garage. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Jun 15, 2010 |
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Jun 15, 2010 04:21
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BigKOfJustice posted:I'm noticing they're sticking the craftsman name on hand tools that isn't made in the US which is a surprise. I picked up a few plyers and wire cutters, and when I got home they were made in China. I know exactly which ones you are talking about. I was very pissed to find that out. About torque wrenches, I bring my craftsman one to the snap on truck all the time and check to see if it is still in calibration and it always has been.
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Jun 28, 2010 01:32
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Anyone know who makes the Snap-On cordless 18v drill? Model CDR4850. I use them a lot but I don't own one and I'm not going to shell out 400 dollars for one.
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Jul 28, 2010 18:30
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You can also get a snap-on ratchet with a soft grip.
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Jul 30, 2010 00:27
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Brigdh posted:I'd honestly be more worried about this: For the price you could get a real lift, used, shops are unloading lifts like crazy. But the main issue is having enough space and making sure your concrete is thick enough. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Jan 1, 2011 |
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Jan 1, 2011 19:34
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