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rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
Anyone got an idea how long HF takes to ship? I've been waiting on an engine stand order since the 10th. All my work in FSAE depends on getting it in. The order number I got has no tracking attached to it so I'm left in the dark. Where they ship from would suffice.

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rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW

Splizwarf posted:

China?

I'm surprised you don't have one locally, they're all over now.

There is one right down the street. But the way I have to go about purchasing one through the university makes it easier to order online. In retrospect, it seems like they would have taken the same amount of time either way, though.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW

FogHelmut posted:

My dad wants to use a Variac variable transformer to control the speed of his single speed angle grinder so he can use it to polish stone. I don't know how unreasonable this is. Any thoughts?

I've got that exact variac in the FSAE workshop. It's great for a makeshift powersupply but be wary. 300VA means that the current rating drops after 100 volts. It's only rated for 2.3A at 130V

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
So are jack stands just jack stands, or are there recommended brands? I need a set for general car use. Probably the largest thing I would put on them would be a minivan.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
Hi guys,

I've been looking at getting a rolling toolbox. I've been doing some searching but I was wondering what you might recommend. I've got about $500 but could stretch it to $1000 (I'd really rather not). I was personally thinking about getting an 18" tool box bottom half from Sears on black Friday. That way I could grow into it and get the top half if I need it. Ideally, I'd like to get a brand from a company that doesn't look like it'll go under in the next year or so, though. Any suggestions?

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
I'm super surprised to see HF in the running for a good toolbox. That review is very detailed and it looks like they hit all the points that matter. I do own a 2.5 ton steel jack and jack stands from there, so far they seem to work as quality products. Could be because they are lawsuit machines if they were to fail under normal operating conditions.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
So thanks to the help in this thread I got the 26" HF toolbox. So far I love it.



Holy poo poo my driveway is crooked.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
The problem I am having with tool organizers is the lack of enough pockets/slots/spaces. I got two very thorough sets of combination wrenches (metric and english) which combine to make a 64 piece set. They both have a carry case but it takes up the largest drawers in my new toolbox which I could use for other things that can't fit anywhere else. I have yet to see an organizer/organizer set fit that many wrenches. I might have to use that neat coiled wire trick to get the job done, though it doesn't make the set easy to carry.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW

West SAAB Story posted:

Pretty much this. Some HF hand tools are useful. Mos t are trash, but they all have a lifetime warranty.. even the $3 socket sets.

I'd have to see the experiment and data from this before I trusted this advice. I personally wouldn't trust HF for any precision instrumentation or tooling.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW

Rhyno posted:

This thread is 5 years old, it's probably here.

Edit: Pictures are gone but here it is

http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2788369&pagenumber=67&perpage=40#post378953733

Thanks for the link. It sounds like what he did was an empirical test to measure inital torque tolerance. As an experiment to measure torque, it seems like it is a decent test, with reasonable room for improvement, but unfortunately as I mentioned before it's not the only determining factor to the quality of a torque wrench.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
That's clearly not meant to regular house use :stare:

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
If we're going to be pedantic, suction does exist. It is a virtual force from the perspective of the high pressure side. Suction does not physically exist.

You only need to change a few numbers to negative to realize its existence in mathmatics

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
Used my ball head allen sockets from Harbor Frieght for the first time today building some 80-20 poo poo. I was really surprised to see the shaft twist and not have the ball snap off at the neck. I was on the fence about getting the torx ones but I think I will now.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
Oh, I've never even saw the metal ones at HF. The plastic ones are horrid, btw.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
I use a media blaster at least 3 hours a day. I use a dry plastic blasting media. That particular media is great for paint stripping without damaging metal.

I use a silicone half mask with particulate cartridges for respiratory protection. I used to use a disposable dust mask.

rcman50166 fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Mar 30, 2014

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
What are those sockets that engage the flats of a bolt called? I need a set to remove rusted to poo poo exhaust bolts/studs.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
That's the one. Out of curiosity, is the Griptite stuff any good? I found those looking for the flank drive stuff.

edit: Tekton impact sockets were the ones I was thinking of. The internet seems to love them. Griptite's apparently suck.

rcman50166 fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Jun 2, 2014

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
Can you guys tell I'm in the middle of a really big repair? I need another recommendation. I need a chain wrench for the pulleys on engines. Is 24" the standard? Why the hell does the price vary so much? Which ones are good but not outlandishly expensive?

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW

InitialDave posted:

Can you define what it is you're doing a bit better? If it's holding belt pulleys, you want a strap wrench, a chain will really gouge them up.

You hit it on the head. I need to hold the main pulley on a '98 subaru legacy outback to get it off. Could I put a piece of leather down between a chain wrench and pulley to avoid damaging it? The Hayes manual I have shows a chain wrench.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
Both of those solutions are neat and I feel bad not having thought of either. Thanks.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW

Krakkles posted:

Are there any good places to get Deutsch connectors (or something similar - waterproof, quick disconnect) for 10AWG wire?

Everything I'm finding for quick disconnects goes down to about 12-14AWG and won't work for the 10AWG wire I want to run to my light bar.

Ideally I'm looking for a 2pin connector, but that's less of an issue than running the right size.

Even Mcmaster doesn't seem to.

Edit: Ok, maybe I found it on ebay:

Female: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEUTSCH-DTP-2-PIN-FEMALE-CONNECTOR-KIT-WITH-LOCK-AND-10-12-AWG-TERMINAL-DTP04-2P-/221138245508
Male: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEUTSCH-DTP...=item338d5346ff

Those should work together, right?

This is where I source mine.

http://www.deutschconnector.com/

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
Is HF's "Go-Thru Socket Set" any good? I'd have to use them to get off some pretty low clearance camshaft retainer bolts so it's a pretty high torque situation as well. I'm just worried because the ratchets are 12 point instead of 6. They would save me a bit of money over my high-quality option, though.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
Its funny, I've got a set of MASTER MECHANIC ratchets from true value that keep crapping out on me. I just go back and get another one because yay lifetime warranty. I'm on my 3rd now.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW

mr_selfdestruct posted:

For any of you HD techs out there, what are your thoughts on 6 and 12 point sockets? Would an all 12 point socket set be a bad decision? I am putting together a tool box, and not quite sure if I need to mix the set up between 6 and 12 point.

I hate 12 points for anything other than 12 point bolts specifically because I round bolts with them every. drat. time. I'd get a nice set of Tekton 6 point impact sockets, then work your way out from there.

edit: im not an HD tech, but i live in the northeast and work on subarus a lot. rust on everything

rcman50166 fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Jul 16, 2014

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW

Elmnt80 posted:

I found a $40 gift card to rural king, thinking of blowing all of it on one of these big fuckers. Does anyone have any experience with the quality of tools from rural king/this brand or am I likely to just snap this one with a single hammer blow like my last breaker bar?

Question, what the hell was stuck bad enough to need a breaker and a hammer? Usually I destroy the bolt with the breaker bar alone. You must have 20mm bolts to unfuck or something.

But seriously, you could go for that guy, or you can get a nice steel pipe and make everything a breaker bar :v:

To directly answer your question, I have never even heard of Rural King.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW

Wasabi the J posted:

I just bought a Bernzomatic propane torch for $15 because I didn't know they were that cheap. The piece of poo poo creme brulee torch I had got returned instantly after I found out those big-rear end 14 oz cans of propane were $3 at my hardware store, instead of $10 for a tiny can of butane.

This is for searing steaks, and it worked way better than the last torch.

One question: is there a way to keep the flame from quitting occasionally? It seems to happen at random.

The flame quits on mine whenever I hold it anywhere close to the flame tip being lower than the neck, ie when it's upside down. I'm guessing it's because you flood the torch with liquid fuel rather than vapor, ruining the air/fuel mixture.

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rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
You also might be able to find a cooking torch that isn't useless.

Maybe.

Edit: This would totally solve any flameout problems

http://www.amazon.com/Mag-Torch-MT5...s=propane+torch

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