|
I've used their auto darkening helmet quite a bit (non professionally) and really really like it. Not once have I woken up screaming in the middle of the night in pain.
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2011 00:54
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 00:56 |
|
|
I had a HF caliper be calibrated to use in the eng dept of an ISO9001 company. They work fine. As long as they arent dropped theyre actually pretty durable as far as day to day use. That said last I checked I found cheap made in USA mics on eBay. I haven't used HF's mics but I am sure theyre fine for hobbyist use. Mics are capable of measuring +/- .0002 or so, even without a readout. (I.E. verniers)
|
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2011 02:07
|
|
|
I thought I'd add this post about calipers. The biggest difference between, say, a Mitutoyo and the HF caliper is not its ability to measure but rather the fact that the mitutoyo slides much much smoother. So if you want to slide it out to a certain size, which is something I do pretty often, it will be far more accurate and easy to do on the mitutoyo then the HF. The HF also has a much slower refresh rate. This is because it gets a measurement to like .xxxxxx decimal places over a period of time and then averages it to give you a readout to .001 accuracy (.0005 resolution) since this is pretty much a mechanical limitation on measuring things with a caliper, the result is that the HF and mitutoyo are comparably accurate.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2011 02:24
|
|
|
Aldi has cool sales on random stuff and does an awesome job of lowing the cost of living for poor people in my area. Some of their food is terrible, some good, but milk there is about half that of public and maybe only 75% that of Target. Never had their tools but if I had some extra money two weeks ago definitely would have picked up their tool storage cabinet.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2011 20:50
|
|
|
As long as I am working in the area the car would roll AWAY from I would feel much safer with ramps and wheel chocks than jack stands. That said while ramps are nice it makes it difficult to remove a tire to plug it or inspect your brakes. Get a jack and jack stands and get ramps for quick stuff like repairing underbody plastics and oil changes.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 12, 2011 04:17
|
|
|
All of the discounts that aren't free are 25% off. So 25% off like four items then a bunch of free ones. 
|
|
#
¿
Apr 24, 2011 19:19
|
|
|
I forgot to hit checkout and lost the deals lol. Glad I didn't buy that charger.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2011 18:41
|
|
|
meatsneakers posted:Can anyone give me some guidance on this: I need to press fit two thin metal tubes together. I'll be using 1/4" and 3/8" dia aluminum and brass. I need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-34152-Tube-Expander-Kit/dp/B001HWLRXO but $400 way out of my price range. Basically I need an exhaust expander but tiny. Does something like this exist (for not $400)? There's probably transitions made for this. If not, can you machine one? Also beware of galvanic corrosion. There should be a coating between the two metals to prevent this. If there is water and or salt passing through then you're in trouble. Also consider using 2024 aluminum.
|
|
#
¿
May 8, 2011 18:11
|
|
|
One of those things teachers use to remove staples from paper.
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2011 02:28
|
|
|
I need a right angle drilling solution that isn't out of this world expensive and can drill a 1/4" hole in a 3.5"x3.5" square pocket. The harbor freight one is just barely too big for this.
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2011 05:38
|
|
|
My boss has been buying torx bits from harbor freight. I easily twist and bend them using them in the machine shop. Can someone suggest some quality bits that wont round off screws and bend constantly? I end up grinding them down all the time but it ruins screws that are about $3-6 each.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 14, 2011 03:53
|
|
|
Yea that's what I thought of too but I generally find that there are quality machine shop brands that don't have the marketing of Snap On or MAC but have the quality. That said for $20, it's probably worth it.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 14, 2011 04:12
|
|
|
Id spend it on phillips, flat, hex and torx bits. The HF ratcheting crimpers are actually quite good. The HF terminals and wire suck. This crimper rocks: http://www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting-crimping-tool-97420.html
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2011 17:06
|
|
|
Brigdh posted:Sounds like my friend and I have a few options, we'll just have to discuss pros/cons and come to a conclusion. Not quite 8 amps but it is a sorta cheap, straightforward solution that doesnt involve you blowing alternators or batteries. http://www.harborfreight.com/800-rated-watts-900-max-watts-portable-generator-66619.html
|
|
#
¿
Aug 9, 2011 00:13
|
|
|
And you can probably get 20% off on top of that.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 11, 2011 17:10
|
|
|
Geoj posted:Anyone have any experience with this service cart from Harbor Freight? I've been kicking around buying a small rolling tool chest for my garage and this would have more than enough room for my tools and is on sale for $160 this weekend. Thoughts? We use one at work, seems to work pretty good.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 25, 2011 22:23
|
|
|
Need a cordless drill to use around the house. Thinking about this DeWalt. http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DC720KA-Cordless-18-Volt-Compact/dp/B000X1TYO4/ref=pd_cp_hi_pw_3 Suggestions?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2011 14:42
|
|
|
I already have a Milwaukee recip saw and a ~1HP band saw for doing bigger faster lumber. How cheap can I go? Harbor freight cheap? I did not have good experiences with their "18v kit"
|
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2011 15:10
|
|
|
The aluminum one is really really nice when you need to put the jack in your trunk.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 12, 2011 18:14
|
|
|
The small torin jack I had did not last as long as my HF racing jack, though the HF racing jack was significantly larger. That said I have used the jack stand that came with that jack exlusively for years and been very happy.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2011 17:37
|
|
|
warcake posted:I hate adaptors. I use 1/2 14mm hex socket all the time for caliper sliders with a blue point 3/4 gun. The hex socket never breaks (not even impact) but the 3/4 to 1/2 adaptor does. I keep breakin em' and the snap on man replaces em'. Do you mean 3/8?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2011 23:29
|
|
|
Buying drills aimed at the metalworking industry makes a seriously huge difference. I have run probably 30 different makes of drills and harbor freight, home depot, etc. all sell just absolutely poo poo drills. The best set I have found locally was a set of rigid cobalt bits at home depot. They are just ground so absolutely bad its amazing. They rub like crazy and are just absolute crap compared to ghuring, clevland twist drill, and other makes of machinist oriented drills. Even MSC's import brand are better than most name brands that they sell at the hardware store except, again, for that rigid set I bought a few years ago and have used both in mills/lathes and in electric drills.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2011 07:06
|
|
|
kastein posted:I've never had a titanium nitride set last for poo poo, no matter where I bought it or what brand name was attached. The black oxide coated Milwaukee HSS drills I've bought recently have put up to my abuse quite nicely though, I stuffed a 3/4" one through a 1" piece of steel plate at something like 500rpm with no lube and it didn't even blink. That's a pretty good speed for mild steel. I typically run HSS drills of unknown quality at 100SFM in mild steel and 250SFM in aluminum and turn it up from there although I always run coolant as this is in a CNC mill. That'd be about 500 RPM for a 3/4 drill. TiN drills of good quality (not harbor freight) will last a good bit longer than bright finish (uncoated) drills and can be run at significantly higher speeds. Black oxide is actually a very poor rust proofing coating which does not affect hardness or drill speed. TiAlN is the black coating that is supposed to be the next step up from TiN. I dont have a lot of experience with it as usually theyre price comparable to carbide or if its a coated carbide its too pricey for the shop I was at. Cobalt drills are actually HSS drills with some cobalt added. Its a bit of a misnomer as IIRC Carbide drills actually have more cobalt in them. Either way they do rock and with the absolute poo poo that is sold as drills at hardware stores, I'd highly recommend getting a cobalt set. Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 09:19 on Nov 24, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2011 09:17
|
|
|
Skyssx posted:Thanks for this info about drill bits. I was automatically wary of the huge amounts of advertisement on Lowe's/HD drill bit sets. Good to know that was well founded. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_oxide Keep in mind TiAlN coated bits are also black and that is a great coating.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2011 18:05
|
|
|
Veins McGee posted:There's 108 pages in this thread so I hope this hasn't been asked before. I'm looking for a welder to do some rust repair in my XJ/CUCV. Is the Lincoln AC-225 a good choice for a novice? MIG (not wire feed) is where its at for automotive repairs. Oh how I regret buying a TIG considering this is almost all I do.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2011 18:45
|
|
|
I cant think of a reason to ever do stick.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2011 21:19
|
|
|
Mine has lasted quite a long time, actually. And was $5. Also they're definitely not razor and blades pricing because the wheels are still cheaper than dewalt wheels.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 14, 2011 22:31
|
|
|
Theres no way youre going to make $6200 on having that over this: http://www.harborfreight.com/13-drawer-red-industrial-quality-roller-cabinet-90320.html Which for the money is quite a good box. Far far far better than comparably priced craftsmans. This highlights what I have never understood about the mechanic culture. There is no way that box will ever pay for itself in profits. If you were to buy an on car brake lathe you could say well I turn X number of brakes now plus I expect it to bring in Z number of jobs of this period and it'll pay for itself in Y number of weeks. When it comes to many snap on tools like tool boxes, in 20 years of being a mechanic, you'll never get $6200 worth of business or efficiency gain out of it.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2011 19:57
|
|
|
Christobevii3 posted:There isn't a real reason except impact ones don't fit in some spaces. This. It pays to have as many sizes and lengths and angles of sockets as possible if you're working on cars. Which reminds me... I wish so much that they (harbor freight) would sell "all in one" type kits that are just metric sizes. I dream of a kit that has: -One 3/8 ratchet -One 3/8 breaker bar -One short and one long extension -2 adapters for 1/4 and 1/2 and a U joint -Reg sockets in 8-22mm -Deep sockets in 10-16mm -Wrenches in 10-18mm -2 Phillips and 2 Flat head screwdrivers -a 1/4" hex socket screwdriver with the various assorted bits you run into (Torx, Allen, Phillips and Flat including micro and larger sizes, maybe 25 or so of these) -Monkey wrench -Wire cutters -2 types of pliers -medium sized channel lock -medium sized vice grip -Box Cutter -Wire stripper multi tool -Multimeter -8" or so C clamp I bet harbor freight could sell this as a fix anything on the side of the road type kit for around $80-100 and do very well. They already sell a lovely version of this that isnt metric only for $40 (w/20% off) that is basically the same thing except both metric and SAE with a lot fewer sockets and wrenches.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 27, 2011 07:38
|
|
|
blindjoe posted:I am getting annoyed with making cuts in metal with my angle grinder because they end up sucking. This goes on sale for $179 sometimes which makes it 150ish with the 20% off. This is how I got mine. I am happy with it though the HF blades are not very good and the saw is not good by an industrial standard but beats the poo poo out of a sawzall. Typically a sawzall/portable bandsaw is your next step. What are you cutting that makes you want this? On a side note: Funny you mention this I went to cut some thin wall SS pipe today after changing the blade the other day and it wasnt cutting it which it normally would easily and quickly. So I thought what gives? I look at the blade and the teeth are going in the wrong direction! Those **** ************* ididiot ****** garbage jerks, I thought. The I paused, took it off, flipped the blade around and cut it. Never forget that you can turn blades in on themselves and that they may ship inside out. Otherwise you become the idiot.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 4, 2012 01:48
|
|
|
Anyone have a speed guide for cutting with a recip saw for various materials, speeds and teeth? EDIT: Doesnt say speeds which I was really looking for but: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ContentView?pn=Recip_Saw_Blades&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Jan 18, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2012 01:32
|
|
|
No. I am looking for approx speeds based on blade material, material being cut and material thickness for a reciprocating saw to give me an idea of where to look for a sweet spot for a reciprocating saw that will be cutting a fair amount of car frame.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2012 16:30
|
|
|
Yea that is pretty much where I am at now. I am a machinist so I understand cutting speed well. Problem is it doesnt translate well into saw blades and when you compare a saw blade to an end mill, saw blades are basically poorly manufactured garbage metal. I wish I had a gas powered 10+" angle grinder so I could just go at it Jeremy Clarkson style
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2012 18:29
|
|
|
My-Broken-Dreams-And-Credit.jpeg
|
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2012 02:50
|
|
|
hunter x az posted:Any real reason to buy an air impact wrench and compressor if you don't have a habit of taking wheels off cars frequently? Theyre really good for removing frame and suspension components. Air impacts get into spaces electric impacts can't.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 3, 2012 05:34
|
|
|
porkfriedrice posted:I purchased this impact wrench to help with some repairs I'll be doing soon: 1- Usually when they give air ratings it'll be x.x CFM at YY psi. In any event 80psi is a good place to start. 2- Yes a few drops. 3- Yes and no. You should have an air dryer in the line. If you're in Florida like me you can have TONs of water in your lines. Our compressor was near a drainage ditch behind the building at the old machine ship and you could straight up freeze your hand in the middle of summer there was so much moisture blowing through it. 4- Probably not break bolts. It is definitely possible to cross thread an aluminum casting on removal, but not that common. Threading stuff back IN however it is downright easy with a good impact. Check out harbor freights torque limiting sticks. Out of the 4 settings on my impact, I only use 1 and 4. Also consider hearing protection. Ear muffs are cheap, your hearing is not. 99dB regularly can cause hearing problems.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2012 11:47
|
|
|
DreamOn13 posted:My HF lightweight aluminum racing jacked failed on me. Started pissing hydraulic fluid. This is the first I have ever heard of one failing  How long did you have it? Where is it leaking from? Did they replace it under warranty?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 27, 2012 23:30
|
|
Traded up to the 2 ton (had the 3,000 lb one before) and hoping it does better.
|
If you get a HF multimeter they are awesome for certain things. Those things are continuity, AC voltage approximating and DC voltage approximating. They have no auto off feature. The leads are absolute garbage. Always use a higher range than you need to. Need to measure 15? Dont use 20V because if it measures 20.1 it'll measure nothing. If you need to measure voltage between 3ph legs it'll work well for that stuff because usually you only care about a 10+v difference.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2012 18:18
|
|
|
Hf ultrasonic cleaner is garbage don't bother
|
|
#
¿
May 4, 2012 15:05
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 00:56 |
|
|
If you get an air tool stuck the first thing to try to fix it is WD-40 btw Also HF's like $20 air ratchet does in fact suck. I have had a pepboys one that I've used many many many times since I was 16. (I'm 23 now) The harbor freight one I used for quickly opening and closing vises at the machine shop I was at broke within a few weeks. The little ball bearing that retains the socket fell out. While I could still use the tool it wouldnt retain sockets for poo poo of course. Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 13:30 on May 17, 2012 |
|
#
¿
May 17, 2012 13:27
|
|