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SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
Guys, what do I do to stop rust on my underbody from getting worse and worse? I mean I can get a wire brush to maybe half of it, but that won't prevent it from setting again right away, and what about the other surfaces?
(Also I get scared shitless whenever a bigger amount of rust falls off, cause then I think it would be better not to touch it at all.)

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SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
My Leatherman has lifetime warranty, using a Skeletool and also have a Kick from Mitsubishi Electric.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

bolind posted:

Since only Kozmonaut and I read my thread, I feel obliged to dump this here: it turns out that any recent smartphone or tablet can be turned into a vibration analysis tool with a simple app.

My car has a shake. The peak fits wheel speed pretty good (This is post-FFT. Ignore the label.)



Also, my coffee grinder seems to run at half of the AC frequency:



What's this app called?

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

sharkytm posted:

Heheh, there's not much out there aside from an Automotive scope ($$$), or Fluke Scopemeter ($$$$). The USB scopes with no screen are even worse, because you've got to lug around a laptop. There are some for Android, but they suck rear end too. There isn't much of a middle ground.

Rigol DS1054Z is my default recommendation. $400, 4 channels, 100MHz with upgrade, 1GS/sec, tons of memory.
http://www.tequipment.net/Rigol/DS1054Z/Digital-Oscilloscopes/?v=0
Use coupon code eevblog6 for 6% off.

::edit:: Discussion here from GJ.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115227

You can unlock even more features with "riglol"

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

sharkytm posted:

Oh, trust me, I know... I've hacked mine and about a dozen others. God bless Rigol's weak encryption (which they know about and don't care).

Yeah, I follow the "intentional" theory, that they wanna allow the consumer to get a bit more for free and don't intend to stop them. Regardless, it's quite nice.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
All I know of the guy is this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-F0PIF8Hqo
After that video I can only assume he has no idea what he is doing. He mounted some shitass chinalights to the bottom of the bumper, he doesn't meassure any placements and then he puts sideways lights on the back...

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
Very nice of them to only clean one!

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
Thinking about replacing the Black & Decker ASL146K-QW I got in a sale cause the batteries are expensive as gently caress and I dont like the wysiwyg gear selector. I wanna go somewhat cheapish but quality. Probably Makita? Any suggestions?

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

sharkytm posted:

Going by the Amazon.de results, that's a cheap drill, right? In Germany, check out Metabo and Bosch for sure. Makita is always great as well.

Im pretty sure it was below 100€ without any sales going on. But I'd like some form of 'system' drill that has cheaper batteries and stuff.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
Well if I can get OEM batteries thats fine too. I'd just like to be able to finish a job after running one battery dry without breaking the bank.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

IOwnCalculus posted:

A lot of that comes down to charge speed. I wonder if B&D cheaped out a bit and only included a slow-speed charger with that. I run compact batteries in all of my Milwaukee M12 and M18 tools, but I have yet to pause a job to wait on a battery. One is charging while the other is working, and I haven't ever worked hard enough or fast enough to need to swap before the second one is charged.

Well I only have the one and >40 € for the same low capacity battery strikes me as a bad investment, especially since after checking I only paid 60 € flat.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
I bought a Kershaw Shuffle II because someone recommended it, and it's very nice for carrying around for odd jobs, but still lies brilliantly in hand.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

eddiewalker posted:

"Speedsafe" assisted-open is what most people really love about their Kershaw knives and that one doesn't even have it.

The first time I flipped open a Leek, I immediately started shopping for one.

I dunno, for swinging a blade open I have bigger knives, this one has a short blade and great ergonomics, as well as being light as gently caress and having no annoying protrusions.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
So how do you sharpen knives easily/cheaply. I feel like the knife sharpening place in my city will be expensive as gently caress and I don't need it to be the best sharpening in the world.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Raluek posted:

Spyderco Sharpmaker for $50, or freehand on a cheap whetstone if you want to go cheaper than that.

As far as I can tell it costs 100$, definitely more than I'd wanna pay for sharpening knives occasionally.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
These systems seem to get more and more complicated.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Safety Dance posted:

The standard sharpening at the place near me is $3.50 per knife. Back when I lived in Atlanta, we got a mobile sharpening service to come by and sharpen every knife in our kitchen for about $20 (it was $1/inch, I think). Professional knife sharpening is surprisingly inexpensive.

7 € seems to be the starting price for the most basic folding knives, only swiss army knives have slightly cheaper rates (4~).

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

OSU_Matthew posted:

Whoah, UK really is a big brother police state... Amazon by default searches by your car registration, instead of generic make and model.

I'm pretty sure the VIN contains all that information by default?

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
The fact that he claimed he couldn't get one really annoyed me, they are seemingly the most popular item ever in that field.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
Considering he built a battery upgrade for the thing one could think it's actually intended for use.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
I'd say just grind it down, there's so much meat on that thing that it doesn't matter. Then paint it.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

OSU_Matthew posted:

:vince:


Thank god for emailed receipts!

Now, do I want cash or store credit for that mini metal lathe I've been hankering for?... :homebrew:

Buy more cheap crap from them so you can maybe use that receipt in a few years to get more HF store credit!

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

kastein posted:

I dunno, I feel like I shouldn't take it seeing as I noticed their nonsense and didn't get taken in by it. (Still bought the tools, just laughed at their "compare at" prices because comparing an HF flashlight on sale to a good brand regular price is a loving joke)

I could get like $120 for just poo poo I bought last year. Probably 3-500 if I bothered to have my bank send me old statements to dig through manually.

So just because you saw through them trying to rip you off, you don't want to get the reimbursement they agreed to pay you for trying to rip you off? This isn't even a moral dilemma, that money is already set aside for you.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

TotalLossBrain posted:

I also ordered from that adorable website that looks like it's never heard of encrypting customer data, such as the credit card information I just entered.
But that price was pretty good!

Gaming Heads stores your credit card data in plaintext, you can conveniently look it up at any time.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Gingerbread House Music posted:



Only 10k more than my house, and about as ugly. Who the hell buys Snapon poo poo?

Mr.Big

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

mod sassinator posted:

Yeah the other gotcha with clicky wrenches is to not store them wound up in a heavily loaded state OR unwound and with no load. Like for the HF 1/2" wrench that goes from 20-200 ft. lbs or so I keep it stored at 30-40 ft. lbs. If you store it at high load like 100 ft. lbs. it will deform the spring over time, and apparently if you store it with no load components can shift around and it loses accuracy. I wouldn't worry or lose sleep over it though if you've stored it like that in the past--very likely the stuff you're using it for, like lug nuts, etc., don't really need ultra precise torque. Tightening head bolts into an aluminum block.. ok maybe time to pull out the spendy torque wrench that matters and treat it with kid gloves.

Ah yes the age old "springs go bad if stored under load", to this day I wait for conclusive evidence from either camp.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
Man, you guys should read about leaving magazines loaded and you'll find this point discussed to exhaustion. I have no ball in this game, but I think it's funny that so many people regurgitate the whole spring weakening stuff when there is seemingly just as much evidence against it.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

mod sassinator posted:

Car springs are different size, material, and stiffness compared to small precision springs--your point? You realize springs are different and characterized by how much deflection they take before permanently changing right? :confused:

By all means do whatever you want with your torque wrenches--I'm sticking with what the manufacturer who built the thing recommends (keep them unloaded in the case).

The spring inside my torque wrench isn't a clock spring, it's a fairly massive thing. And I would assume that an engineer designing precision equipment would overspec to the point where (according to wikipedia) springs don't permanently change even if under load.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
Can anyone recommend proper sealant to use when drilling through a car roof? Planning on installing a radio antenna and maybe some other auxiliary equipment, and since my new car will probably be new, I don't wanna take any chances. Last time I used some good quality silicone, but I read several places that even the car stuff isn't really that great for the job.
Also, any recommendations for feeding cables through the car body? I feel like a rubber grommet isn't ideal and it should be sealed as well.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

InitialDave posted:

What kind of radio aerial do you need to add to a new car?

If it's for a CB or similar, might a clamp or bolt on mount be better than drilling?

2m, I am going for a clean install rather than some alternative mounting solution, it generally gives better performance and is less horrible to look at.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

ThinkFear posted:

Use a nmo mount, the included gasket will seal the hole.

Doesn't seem like that's available here.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Krakkles posted:

I don't know that this solves the problem, but sometimes a source/part number helps, so:

Here is the one I used. Works well, I think we still put RTV around it.

And you're exactly right - mounting the antenna permanently / through the roof gives me wayyyyyyyy better performance than everyone else I see at the races with stick on/fender mounts.

It's rather unfortunate as it seems like a nice system, but without easy availability for good antennas based on the system I can't really adopt it :/

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

I was considering it, but I'm worried that the damaged paint will lead to rust forming around the drillpoint without some form of "larger" seal.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

IOwnCalculus posted:

The solution to that isn't (only) a seal, it's covering any newly created bare metal with paint.

I am not a painter and I don't want to spray the interior of my car through a hole. Also paint matching and all that poo poo. Seems to me a sealant makes way more sense.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
My experience with paint has always been very poor because of all the surface prep and priming. I suppose a paint pen might be simple enough, although those seem pretty expensive for what they are.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
Yeah European construction goto is Torx now and it's pretty nice.
Then again, I exclusively use stainless machine screws, so I might just not hate myself enough.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
Do not operate rad laser lightshows at the top because your coworkers will be jealous.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
They are for P-touch tho, is it really the same for Dymo?

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Big Taint posted:

I’ve gotten seemingly intact boxes with nothing in them from Amazon, wouldn’t surprise me if some new guy forgot to put the item in before they taped the box shut.

Ive had items get out of boxes before when there was too much give between the parts.

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SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
Huh, that actually makes total sense and I've never even thought about grease gun pump amounts.

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