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Blitter
Mar 16, 2011

Krakkles posted:


Ok, so I'm going the crimping route (ordered a Snap-On crimper, because I usually trust their tools, and it sounds like it's one of the "if you buy a lovely one you will regret it" tools), I'm looking at connectors from McMaster Carr because Berner sadly doesn't seem easily available in the US.

Back to crimper chat! I have a Paladin Tools Crimpall 8000 kit (with the data/coax dies) and have added dies for molex pins, and terminal/lug connectors etc. It's a nice solid tool, produces reliable crimps and allowed me to throw out a handful of shittier tools it replaced.


It's available just as the frame, or with one set of dies, or as a bunch of different kits. Not sure if it's more expensive (or better/worse) than the bluepoint stuff tho. There are a ton of dies for just about every kind of connector, which can be handy.. Not sure why I can still crimp rj22 handset plugs, but uh, I can woo?!

Blitter fucked around with this message at 19:44 on May 30, 2014

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Blitter
Mar 16, 2011

PBCrunch posted:

I have been watching some repair videos on YouTube and I have seen a tool I want, but I do not have a name for.

The tool is a socket extension that has a screwdriver grip on it. I have some socket extensions that are knurled, but the tool I am looking for is more like a bit driver with a square hole in the back end of it. This tool allows you to break a nut loose with the ratchet, then spin it free by hand without switching tools.

I wanted the same kinda thing and bought a Wera 1/2 "Zyclop" ratchet - They have a silly video that illustrates it - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wlKF7NBp7dQ or enjoy the amusing german one mit Porsche!https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6nzcGr2bbU.

It was ~$70 CDN, and I like it enough I filled out my 1/2 sockets/drivers etc to use it more. Ratchet is nice; wasn't sure about the pivot slider, or the locking direction thinger but it's all easy with the hand on the tool. Overall quality seems excellent and the place I bought if from happily dared me to break it. The downside is I am becoming addicted to their poo poo.

Blitter
Mar 16, 2011

Deeters posted:

Any of you have suggestions for JIS screw drivers? I've seen a few on Amazon but nothing by brands I recognize. My bike has a bunch of JIS screws I'd rather not destroy when I go to change my brake fluid.

I wanted to recommend a Wera, because the lazer etched tips are excellent, even on the standard phillips heads. Weirdly, I couldn't find anything JIS, and eventually discovered that the JIS standard was obsoleted in 2008 by the DIN 5260-PH standard.

So, you might find more recognizable brands with the current standard, but I'm still going to recommend Wera, because LASERS:


Downloading the catalogue from Wera to see for certain which models are DIN 5260, but this Kraftform 350 PH data sheet has some info that I can't get directly on the Wera site.

Not sure if your bike is of the powered or unpowered variety, but either way, Zyklop mini-ratchet and bit driver set is a really compact collection of drivers for travelling with; throw your common sockets in 1/4" and you can cover a lot of bases. While I'm at it, I might as well tell you how fantastic the Kompakt ratcheting handle is; so much easier on the hands than regular drivers when you're using it for hours.

I feel like a shill for Wera; I'm not honest!

Blitter fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Dec 13, 2015

Blitter
Mar 16, 2011

Raluek posted:

I like mine, but the quality (much like any multi-tip single-driver kit) isn't near as nice as a kit of discrete drivers like Wera et al.

Yeah, I like the ifixit kit for the rarely used tri screws and other oddball stuff, and picked up a set of moody Phillips drivers, since I seem to use that the most:


They aren't wera quality stuff but are decent, and not too pricey.

Blitter
Mar 16, 2011

Elmnt80 posted:

Can someone recommend a small tool cart? I just want something to throw sockets and wrenches onto when I'm in the garage.



That uLine cart is probably worth the money, but I picked one of these up on sale for < $50 .. It's handy, and I like the way dirt just ends up where it belongs on the shop floor, instead of accumulating in the cart. I wouldn't trust it for much weight. (From IKEA - RÅSKOG - $69.99 cdn)

Blitter fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Feb 15, 2016

Blitter
Mar 16, 2011

Vulcan posted:

I don't think the quality is as good as other brands, which is why I was worried I broke it running it too hard. Also sparks come out of the vent holes when you let it loose, I dont remember that happening to that extent before. Its not brushless.

Sometimes I think it would be best to have a corded drill around for hardened metal and masonry and save the cordless drills for the day to day tasks and lighter projects.

Sounds like your brushes might be a mess; i've reshaped/cleaned them up before (not on this drill tho) so it might be worth opening up and inspecting things. Alternatively, you could get some replacements?

I haven't run into any problems with my dewalt max stuff, but uh, i bought a 1/2 " corded dewalt drill (with the handle) and it has excellent variable speed control and tons of power - picked it up as a factory refurb for ~$65 and beat it like a rented mule.

Most cities seem to have a factory outlet or repair place that can get you parts too (and cheap refub poo poo!).

Blitter
Mar 16, 2011

spog posted:

Anyone recommend a gas-powered soldering iron?

I don't have power near my car and I have a little bit of wiring to solder.

Cheap and cheerful would be best as it's only for a couple of jobs

I have an ancient portasol like this, but it is a little fiddly to get the temp where you want if you're changing the angle of it regularly. It is cheap, and does work tho! Apparently the newer weller portasols have better gas control and integrated lighters; kinda tempted to pick one up.

Blitter
Mar 16, 2011

Krakkles posted:

Appreciate the idea, but it's for a toolbox in a 4x4. Space is at a premium, those would never fit.

Tool rolls are are compact and quiet, and the ones with a full length flap give a chunk of clean space with the bonus that you can put it on the ground where you're working.

Blitter
Mar 16, 2011

Thumposaurus posted:

Even with sprayers you have to back roll the walls with a roller to even it out. Cutting in corners and around windows is the part that takes the longest. Once that's done rolling the paint on the walls takes no time.

Whenever I need to do this kind of stuff, I always take cues from the professional plasterers/painters that I have met. Drink steadily, perhaps pausing to smoke pot when "waiting for the paint to tack up", and wear clothing that is improved in appearance and perhaps smell by the addition of paint.

Actually, buy really good and paint appropriate brushes, and rollers. Good brushes will last ages, and can both carry and flow paint better; you'll need less masking too. Cheap rollers can loving shed lint. Go to an actual paint store (not a big box place), and talk to knowledgeable people. Buy a brush/roll spinner for cleanup or color changes and/or saran wrap tightly and refrigerate between drinking sessions.

I rather like painting, now that I think about it!

Blitter
Mar 16, 2011

angryrobots posted:

I also received mine, and even used it once to great success.

I gave the extra can, along with the SDS, to my mechanic at work who will give it a proper review, working on our raggedy rear end equipment.

It is really fantastic stuff. Good to hand off the SDS tho, cause it's fantasticly nasty too!

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Blitter
Mar 16, 2011

BraveUlysses posted:

it will look like poo poo if you dont use a circular saw

The only aesthetically pleasing result possible with a sawzall must involve destruction.

I mean, unless your goal is ragged curving cuts I guess.

(You could make a fence out of scrap that clamps to the post at right angles if you're feeling nervous with a circular saw)

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