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ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

MRC48B posted:

most battery tools are 21v, max of maybe 40a? = 840 w

I think the biggest M18 batteries are putting out over 100A these days. I have the chainsaw and it's great for camping and homeowner-type stuff. I've cut through 24" logs with mine.

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ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

wesleywillis posted:

Already have a chop saw. Also, angle grinder, tin snips, sawzall, hacksaw, O&A torch.

Hmmmm.... We ain't got a plasma cutter yet.

What, no cold saw? No bandsaw?

You need to buy more tools.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

The nice thing about eneloops is they allegedly hold their charge for many years (just the white eneloops, not the black eneloop pro). So just keep some charged ones in a drawer and don't worry about quick charging them. Quick charging isn't great for battery cycle life anyway.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

What Milwaukee M18 1/2" impact wrench should I buy for car stuff? Like the kind of car stuff where you definitely want an impact wrench.

I have the 2555 M12 stubby, which is good enough for lug nuts, and maybe exhaust, but not axle nuts and big suspension bolts. (I bought it for installing with unistrut while up on a ladder, and it's great for that.)

Asking because there are dozens of models. I'll probably also get a mid-size M18 battery, but don't need the charger, etc.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

wesleywillis posted:

This one:

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Wrenches/2767-20

If it doesn't bust axle nuts and suspension poo poo, then you need a torch.
Make sure to get some appropriate sockets.

Thank you!

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

I only have the HO/HD 12 which is probably way too big for an impact. I'll have a HO XC 8 at work I can try out for weight and balance.

What battery do you recommend?

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Yeah, some of my trips require a chainsaw.

Well, maybe not "require", but I'll never go back to a bow saw.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Which ratcheting wrench brand is good? I want ones that look like a normal combo wrench (one end open, shallow angle on the box end), with a direction switch (not flip the wrench over).

I bought a set but just realized the ratchet is 6 sided, not 12. This is stupid because it's that much harder to get them on the bolt and the mechanism can't take huge torque anyway.

Years ago I had a set I liked by Crescent (I think), but I dunno if they're still good. Some of their stuff is pretty variable.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

e: oops wrong thread for a project update, I just wanted to poo poo on this tool in particular:

I bought an ABN stud extractor set on the recommendation of the Project Farm guy, and it effortlessly turned my threaded stud into a beautifully polished, unthreaded stud. Guess I'll go buy a torch.

ryanrs fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Feb 25, 2021

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

As safety coordinator for my 4 person office, I bought like 20 pairs of different kinds of safety glasses and littered them all over our one room office. No cases, no organization, just safety glasses all over the loving place. No excuses that you couldn't find one.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

He did, but they are out of stock.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

e: see above

I do this kind of stuff for work. It is very easy to send files to a commercial 3D printing service.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

banned from Starbucks posted:

but smaller. Like in the 6mm size range.

Is 4AN (6.35mm) too large? Is 3AN (4.76mm) too small?

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Lol, use case.

It's a laser! What more justification do you need?

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Everyone thinks the lasers are expensive, but it's the saltwater aquarium that's really going to kick your rear end.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

I got 6 ton stands just because they're bigger and can get my minivan higher in the air. I'm thinking of making some 4" plywood pads for them to sit on for even more height (is this safe-ish? it's on a nice, level concrete pad).

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Advent Horizon posted:

Those Sunex stands are expensive but they look like the safest possible option.

17.3" max height is lame.

e: I guess that's the low size. But the medium's min height of 18" is too high! Lol that the ranges don't overlap.

ryanrs fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Jul 9, 2021

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

um excuse me posted:

So then where are we on the sketchy scale on a wood gantry hoist? I could use an actual LVL beam which is a step further than the 4x4 ones I typically see.

I built a gantry out of 2x4s and used it to haul a full beehive to the top of a 3 story house in San Francisco. It worked great!

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Might be solvable with just a capacitor or tvs diode across the motor terminals? If you're down to do trimmer surgery and post pics of the guts, I can suggest circuit modifications and show you where to get the parts.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

the spyder posted:

While I'm here - these are hands down the nicest flush-cutters/nippers I have ever used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PR1MXG/

I go the other way with flush cuts: cheap and plentiful. Buy lots, abuse them, throw them away. I generally don't use tools like this, but flush cuts are an exception.

Pretty good Hakko flush cuts, 5 pack for $25

e: Ridgid crescent wrenches are good. Good machining where needed, tight fit.

ryanrs fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Oct 1, 2021

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Arrives by November, are you kidding?

(I would buy all kinds of stuff from aliexpress if I could add $15 for air shipping.)

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

knox_harrington posted:

Also switches on each socket! And fuses but I admit i'm kinda lost on why the UK needs them and nobody else does.

Because UK houses are wired with "ring circuits", i.e. a 30A breaker feeding twin 13 AWG wires in the walls. It's a byproduct of wartime copper shortages, and it is stupid and less safe.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

The best (readily available, consumer) power strip in the world (on amazon).

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Metal-Power-Strip-Protector/dp/B000BVC0WO

Real duplex outlets, steel case, long cord, $30 and free next day delivery. I've probably bought $500 of these things over the years, and they've all been great. Possibly the best product Belkin makes.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Yeah, Hitachi miter saws had a legit good reputation before Metabo bought them. I would expect Metabo HPT to be fine, unless Metabo has intentionally downgraded the Hitachi products post-acquisition.

That said, I don't own any Metabo or Metabo HPT tools. But I've been thinking of getting the cheap 10" no-slide miter saw for misc utility cutting.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Search ebay for M18 adapter. I made an M18 / Anderson Powerpole adapter, which is super handy and voids the warranty of every electronic device in a 6 foot radius (it has a 6 foot cord). I've used it to jump start* my van.

* by which I mean, "put a surface charge on the car battery, disconnect M18, start car". The M18 can't turn the starter.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

I live in the SF Bay Area where it's 70 F and sunny every day of the year, and I like darn tough socks, too.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

The knipex pliers wrench and cobolt are both very nice.

(Get the cobolt with the notch.)

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Call them and ask? Mcmaster’s phone support is really good.

(mentioning it because legit good phone support is super rare these days)

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

I bought that tool on Amazon, and the threads were fine, metal seemed good. But the inverted flares it made were solidly "ugh, ok". Probably my technique was poo poo and I should have practiced more? Most flares worked, though I re-did a couple without even trying to install them. Still ended up redoing one after the system was back together and bled.

On the other hand, this $140 AN flare tool has a rolling cone and makes absolutely beautiful single flares, every one perfect. I made 16 flares and none leaked.

If I needed to make more inverted flares, I would probably buy a different, better tool. (Especially if I'm making the flare while not under the car. The cheap tool does have an edge in tight spaces.)

e: my theory is that kastein made them popular, and now the production dies are worn out and they suck, heh

ryanrs fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Oct 25, 2021

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

MrOnBicycle posted:

Turns out the dude who sold me the brake line tubing was lazy and/or dumb. Decided to get some more tubing and this time double checked the art. no. before giving him it. He said, like last time, that all their tubing and sizes were there same. The website has bad information. Anyway, double checked after he gave me it and it had the wrong number. Ok, asked another staff member who then find the proper tubing. Turns out what he gave me before was just normal copper tubing, even though I had asked specifically for CuNi tubing.

So I guess good thing the flares where poo poo.

Wow, that's really dangerous. gently caress that guy.

I bought 50 ft of CuNi brake line from fedhill and was pleased by the quality. Tubing seemed very consistent. Some of the stuff I saw on Amazon had pretty scary pics in the reviews (tubing defects).

If you are in the SF Bay Area and want to borrow brake tools, I have some you can use.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

meatpimp posted:

Ryobi 7 1/4" cordless

All else being equal, a smaller diameter blade will give cleaner and more precise cuts, because of less blade vibration. It should not be too hard to make a 7 1/4" that makes finer cuts than a big sliding 12" that probably costs 4X.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Oh yeah, that's another advantage of 7 1/4", you'll be ankle-deep in good blades from $5-30. Compare those prices with 12" blades that get into the triple digits.

Now, I suspect the bigger blades last longer. So if you're a contractor who goes through blades regularly, there might not be a big difference. But if you're a hobbyist, maybe you don't burn through blades, but you still want a number of different blades for wood, steel, aluminum, etc. Buying that first set of blades will be so much cheaper on the small saw, more than $150 less than on a big 12".

I am seriously annoyed that Milwaukee doesn't have a cheaper, smaller, non-sliding M18 miter saw, like that Ryobi. It doesn't have to be as cheap as the Ryobi, but the $450 Milwaukee slider is too much. I have been looking at the corded $120 Metabo/Hitachi instead.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Here's where I plug Ridgid crescent wrenches. Well-machined, tight mechanisms.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Milwaukee has been expanding their hand tool lineup with wrenches and ratchets and similar stuff. I like the finish on their breaker bar. I'm curious if their other hand tools are good, too.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Suggestions on a good pop rivet tool? I'll be installing aluminum rivets to button up a PC chassis (basically need to tear it apart and then put it back together).

I know this is the easiest possible use case in all of rivet-dom, but does anyone have a tool they really like?

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

It's not even my money I'm spending (but no pneumatic or electric, pls).

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

No doubt, but seems extravagant for 6 rivets.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Oh poo poo, they make an M12 rivet gun? Hmm...

They make the rivet gun, but not the 4,000 RPM drill to make the holes. Milwaukee needs to release a fast M12 drill for poking little holes in metal.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Thanks! I bought this one.

I also bought a pack of assorted rivets off Amazon, and the specific size I need from McMaster, to compare rivet quality.

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ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

I have the extended length, M12 fuel ratchet and it is ok, I guess? Kinda heavy and and the motor itself doesn't put out a ton of torque. But with the extended reach you have a long lever to yank on, if you dare. I might like it more if I needed to spin bolts every day?

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