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Hypnolobster posted:Did that poo poo actually get cheaper? We plumbed our compressor through 3 outlets in the garage and two down to the basement all in copper a few years ago. Last I saw that poo poo was still loving astonishingly expensive. Ive just done my bathroom plumbing using push fit connectors and plastic pipe because it was cheaper and easier than copper. It seems that the main company that make the plumbing speedfit connectors (in the UK anyway) also do compressed air ones and they are similar prices to the plumbing stuff. So this should mean it is cheaper. UK shop - http://www.tom-parker.co.uk/products_categories.php?v=1&recall=true&products_categories=11 Rated for 10bar according to the specs on the manufacturers site, so plenty for use on a compressor at home.
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Oct 27, 2008 19:58
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I was burgled last week and had my toolbox stolen along with my welder and metal chop saw  Anybody else buying tools - SAVE YOUR RECIEPTS! (chuck them all in a box and sort them out if you ever need to) My initial off the top of my head value of my toolbox when asked by the police was exactly half of what it turned out to be when i went through my bix box of reciepts and added it all up and then checked out the current values. Im sure there is still stuff i have missed Has anybody in the UK seen any good offers on tools at the moment? or does anybody know when the next VAT free machine mart day might happen? I have so far bought one of these - halfords 150piece pro set for £99 - http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_173083_langId_-1_categoryId_255215. Which isnt as comprehensive as all the seperate sets I used to have but touches most things and seemed a good place to start. fingers crossed my insurance claim goes through without hassle..
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Jun 17, 2012 10:11
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InitialDave posted:Sorry to hear that - also, if you paid by card, that can help track down what you bought later. Insurance _should_ cover it.. Man on the phone said that if it was under £1000 my claim would likely go through without question even without the reciepts. As it is, I have found the reciepts for about 80% of my stuff but (on insurance mans advice) am claiming for the replacement values rather than the reciepted values. It is amazing how much stuff has gone up over the last 3 years! (This http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cco14-14in-abrasive-cut-off-saw was £99 inc VAT when i bought it and is now £143!). I now have a 'new toolbox' file ready for the reciepts. Am already on the postal mailing lists but now on the email one multiple times  I might ring and ask the manager of the local shop and see if he can give me any hints when it might be! - I've got my shopping list ready and by the end of the week should have some money!
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Jun 17, 2012 13:13
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Sir Cornelius posted:I don't know where you live, but from the above reply I guess the UK? Good luck breaking this £20 tool. I've tried but have so far utterly failed to do so: I've broken 2 of the 1/2 inch machine mart ones. One took me jumping on it and just deformed really gracefully and one took a 6 foot scaffold bar and snapped suddenly. Didn't know they did a 3/4 too - I shall upgrade! 
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Dec 20, 2012 00:17
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hermand posted:2. Electric Impact Wrench I've fancied one of these for ages too - how well does this one work? I bought one of the £20 Aldi air impact wrenches and it wont free the wheel nuts off my landrover (they rust onto the wheels) with my compressor tank pre-filled and set as high as it will go. Is this any better? I have a 20% off machinemart voucher valid for the next week hermand posted:I still rate Halfords Pro tools over nearly everything else (Barring real pro stuff like Snap On etc). Get a trade card and the price is genuinely competitive. Their list of trades is too restrictive. I've got my own IT company which is enough to open trade accounts in most places (we do have quite a number of powertools toolkits and compressors in use!) but they insist on it being a automotive trade for theirs
Tomarse fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Dec 31, 2012 |
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Dec 31, 2012 15:22
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Colonel K posted:What size is your hose and compressor? From browsing in my local machinemart the cheaper clarke air impact wrench is exactly the same as the Aldi one i have but with a different sticker on it. My compressor is a 'Clarke Rebel 30' - so its only got a 30L tank BUT it is 2.5hp/9CFM rather than one of the cheapy 1hp/6CFM ones. It is however running over probably 25M of hose (which mainly looks to be decent stuff with 8 or 10mm internal bore - It is the £20 Aldi version of this http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-15-metre-retractable-air-hose-reel-ca?da=1&TC=SRC-air+line+hose ). By the time I next come to take a wheel off the 101 I should have finished my garage so it can run over a short hose instead and i'll give it another try. May buy one of the electric ones too though as it keeps me more popular with the neighbours InitialDave posted:Just tried it, and yes, using 10' of regular air hose (about 5/16" bore) rather than recoil hose makes a significant difference to the effectiveness of tools. OK. I will hold off on any further dissing of the aldi impact driver until I get it onto a shorter hose! Tomarse fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Jan 1, 2013 |
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Jan 1, 2013 17:41
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spog posted:I think they added that requirement fairly recently. Of course, the whammy here is that the till receipt will fade after 3 months and photocopies aren't accepted. Do they cover ratchet spanners? The 10mm one I have broke the first time I used it last week I wasnt even abusing it - it broke as soon as I put any force on it and it wasnt even a tight nut.Every time i get a halfords tool reciept now i staple it to a bit of A4 on which I write in marker what it is for so i can easily read it later. Stops them getting lost so easily too. When I had all my stuff nicked back in the summer I was so happy to have a huge stack of reciepts for everything for my insurance claim!
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Jan 1, 2013 17:50
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hermand posted:Now that's damned tempting, but £200 is still £200 and the Mrs is going to start getting upset. She's been very good about letting me fund a serious motorbike, car and tool addiction Tempting here too but I only really need the bottom section. Does anybody want to go halves?
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May 20, 2013 19:57
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thegasman2000 posted:I have been looking at this too and Mag Rails look good. As I am So has anybody actually tried this? is it possible to do and it not end up too lovely?
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Aug 26, 2013 17:11
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I am having to get creative! I am going to use an old camping roll mat, cutting out my tools on one layer and sticking to one below. Ghetto but cheap.
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Cool, I'm definitely going to give that a try using camping mats... I need to sort all my tools into one place first though and work out what I actually have. Last year I had nearly all my tools stolen out of my shed. Since then they have been in the house. I have now built a garage and am trying to get everything secure before I put anything back in there. Has anybody got any security suggestions?. I have: - Added a PIR and put it on my house alarm and I can set that zone at night. - Barred the windows using angle so that you cant get anything big through them. - Reinforced the door (which is a metal frame with lots of glass but now has lengths of angle iron welded on the inside such that even with no glass there still wouldn't be gaps big enough to get much through). I'm going to reinforce the door hinges next and add an external padlock and hasp. What else can I do? My tool chest has a working lock. I was thinking that I could chain it to to floor with some sort of anchor loop? (garage is on a concrete pad). The same goes for other big tools like my compressor. I was thinking that something like a metal office filing cabinet or cupboard would be a good purchase to store all my other power tools and expensive bits in? (second hand ones are cheap!) I have a manual roller shutter door on the front of my garage. I have a padlock through the internal chain but you could probably still lever it up slightly from outside with a big crowbar. Is it worth sinking a central bolt of some sort into the concrete to lock this down more? what does everybody else do? I'm probably going over the top but it really sucks having your stuff stolen!
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Aug 26, 2013 20:43
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Cat Hatter posted:Usually once someone breaks the glass on a garage door, they reach in and pull the cord to disconnect the door from the opener and then just push the whole door open so you might want to look into how hard that is with your setup. Some people recommend removing the cord but that doesn't really help if the lever it connects to is accessible enough. The roller shutter door moves using a chain which sits in a gear. I think anything I do is as strong as the padlock and chain. It seems pretty hard (almost impossible but probably not quite if you dont care about door damage) to roll the shutter up by lifting the bottom edge and not using the chain. InitialDave posted:You can get these large deadbolts for the doot, which would prevent someone opening it, regardless of them being able to get at the roller chain: poo poo they are expensive! The whole 4m x 2m door new was only £400. I guess they mount at the bottom of the door and bolt through the side frame?. I could do that with some internal pins made out of stuff I already have - looks like its probably a sensible way of secondary locking the door down. If I just chain and padlock everything and make it really solid I guess that the only way through it is going to involve lots of noise and hopefully triggering my alarm..
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Aug 26, 2013 21:57
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KozmoNaut posted:This is the best solution for securing motorcycles inside a garage, as well. A ground anchor bolted (or sunk while the concrete is being poured) into the floor and a big-rear end case-hardened boron/manganese/whatever steel chain. It all depends on how solidly you can affix it to your toolbox, of course. Looking at the lock on my clarke toolbox, It would probably only take seconds to lever the lid open or drill the lock if you only wanted the tools out of it. I think that a big chain will be really simple though and make it more than a 2 minute/silent job to take the whole chest thus stopping your average thief. Yeah - I was just working that out. I think I just need a big secure locker in there that I can throw everything you can cut/hit with in at the end of a day (if its too complicated or time consuming I'm likely to get lazy), and an Alarm/security setup such that it makes a lot of noise to get through anything such that me or the neighbours will find out.
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Aug 26, 2013 22:10
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InitialDave posted:You can find them all over ebay for £30 a pair. Perfectly serviceable. Where have you found them on ebay? I can't find ones that look like those (though there is some other stuff that looks like it might help!) Yea, my toolbox lock is only a hook latch so if you pushed the lid far enough one way it would disengage. General_Failure posted:A lot of locks on boxes / lids can be defeated in about two seconds with a flathead screwdriver. I think they are more to prevent people from using your tools when you aren't around. The roller shutter mechanism on mine is similar to this, except that it geared through 2 big plastic cogs: http://www.1stsecurityuk.com/industrial_door3.jpg. The door is made of lots of slats, and if you just lift from the bottom they tend to just bunch up and get stuck rather than rolling up (the roll is tensioned by an internal spring so doesn't move easily). You should walk up to your shed and look at it and think what you would do if you were armed with a crowbar or any other poo poo that is lying around in your yard and you had 5 minutes and didn't give a poo poo about damaging anything, walking on or breaking anything on your way past - how much valuable stuff you could you extract?. I had mine broken into when I was mid construction project and I had backfilled until the doors barely closed for overnight on a stormy night with non valuable stuff (cement mixer, cement, waste pipes, shovels etc). They got all my valuable tools out past all the poo poo, in the dark and then carried it across my yard and over a wall without making a noise that caused me or my neighbours to look out of the window.
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Aug 26, 2013 23:28
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General_Failure posted:Second question. Are different sized nipples a thing? My grease gun only sort of engaged on the pre-existing ones and when I tried to pump grease in all it did was spurt out around them. Are there different heads available or something? This is a bit of a problem. A slight difference in nipple sizes is perfectly normal.. (The 2 UJ's on the back prop of my landrover are obviously a different make to the 2 on the front prop as my grease gun works perfectly on the front ones but I have to fight to get it to stay on the back ones. You can buy the nipples separately over here)
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Sep 26, 2013 08:40
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Cakefool posted:Are Sealey a reasonable name in budget tool chests? I'm thinking an AP2200BB combo for £100 looks good value, even if I have to rip the utility room apart to fit it it'll be better than the ragtag assortment of toolboxes and plastic boxes I have now. Sealey tools seem pretty good. I'd rate them about level with the halford's pro stuff in my experience. Thats a reasonable price for a box combo, but see if you can find one to inspect and see how the drawers feel. My dad has a cheap halfords one and it feels really flimsy compared to my clarke one (which isn't even the posh one with ball bearing slides which feels even more solid!). I would also look at one with more drawers in. I have this one and those top 6 1/3rd drawers are great for keeping things organised - I want more of them than the full width drawers! (If you decide you want a clarke one I have a VAT free voucher for this weekend if you want to drive up to Stoke to collect it) Tomarse fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Oct 15, 2013 |
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Oct 15, 2013 08:23
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I have the Aldi version of This clarke air chisel. Does anybody know if the cheap needle scaler attachements (like this one on ebay will fit onto it? It looks like it will and for £15 I'm tempted to try anyway! I want to clear the rust off the 8 spoke wheels on my landy and I think this will get right in the joints where the rust is.
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Oct 15, 2013 08:53
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InitialDave posted:Paddocks, the Land Rover place, sell "Gorilla Grip" gloves for about £3.50 which are quite good. My technique is to still wear a pair of latex gloves underneath them, to stop the oil which soaks through the fabric sections. Thanks for the suggestion, i'm going to try some of these too. I've been using doubled up latex gloves recently as one pair just seems to make my hands colder, wheres I can still feel my fingers with 2 pairs. John Richards Landrovers seems to be the cheapest place to buy latex gloves.
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Dec 3, 2013 11:12
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I have just spent an hour playing with my mates TIG welder and now I want one badly! I was looking at a SIP http://www.sipuk.co.uk/sip-05266-weldmate-p178hf-tig-arc-inverter-welder.html but it looks like the R-tech stuff is highly regarded (but is 25% more expensive) http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/welding_equipment/Tig_Welder/Tig_Welders_R-Tech_Tig160PDC His is an R-tech and he rated their support and warranty support highly. has anybody used SIP stuff or dealt with them or have any other suggestions? I'm in the UK and this is only for light home workshop use. I don't really want to risk a cheap ebay Chinese noname one. I want one that does HF start and just DC (since I can't afford an AC one)
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Dec 8, 2013 16:28
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Cakefool posted:Well I finally got a look at the £100 cabinet/chest combo I was thinking of getting, and it's ludicrously tiny, like 1ft by 2ft by 2ft. So I've doubled my budget and am looking at getting a half-decent 5 or 7 drawer cabinet, any recommendations for under £200? I want a cabinet too! On ebay there are 'Hilka' ones which are a sensible price. Has any seen one of these in the metal? Are they poo poo or OK?
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Dec 14, 2013 12:21
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Astonishing Wang posted:What about using some of the plastic bullet holders that come in a box of handgun bullets? I'm not sure how the sizing would work but there might be a casing that is similar to a screwdriver bit. We bought a 10 pack of cheap lovely screwdriver bits at work a few years ago that came in 2 part rubber cases (like these on ebay We still had a few left. I have stripped all the bits out into an pot that now lives in a cupboard and simply refilled 3 rubber packs with the bits i want, split how i want them. When one wears out i bin it and refil from my spares tub. I keep taking out my meth addict selection of screwdrivers too and filing them in my spare tools box but they always seem to creep back into my main toolbox!
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Dec 17, 2013 09:50
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Mat_Drinks posted:I'll likely short term lease a smaller bottle for thinner sheet metal so I have less grinding to do when those projects come up, but use fluxcore for non cosmetic projects where it doesn't make a difference. I'm not sure you will want to go back to fluxcore after using gas! Can you not buy disposable bottles in the US? We can get these and they work out well for occasional use. You can also get pub gas bottles refilled with CO2 and argon over here which also works out much cheaper than renting for the usage you will give it at home. There must be similar for you?
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Dec 25, 2013 23:03
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InitialDave posted:Yeah, really, any not-from-a-pound-shop drill bits are usually perfectly servicable, but you've got to make sure you let the cutting edge cut rather than just rub. I bulk buy the cheap ones from screwfix. They blunt quickly and break easily but when a pack of 10 is £1 you can just chuck it and move on to another new one!
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Jan 16, 2014 23:08
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InitialDave posted:Oh wow, I just used an air-powered needle scaler for the first time. Why didn't I buy one of these years ago? I posted almost this exact comment 6 months ago! They are amazing! If you want to save a bit of cash you can buy yourself a scaler attachment from ebay and it will fit onto one of the £10 Aldi air chisels or the cheapest clarke air chisel (which is the same as the Aldi one)
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Mar 30, 2014 14:31
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BoostCreep posted:I'm sick of working on the floor and really need to organize my garage a bit, so I'm finally thinking of getting a work bench. I happen to have a $100 gift card to harbor freight, so I'm thinking of getting this table. I think I'd be happier making one than paying $143 for that. It doesn't look to be that solid. I like a workbench I can beat the poo poo out of stuff on - i'd be worried about smashing that one. I built 2 benches for my garage. frames are 2x4 timber (which is about £10 per 16 foot length here). Top is second hand kitchen worktop. Shelves made from an old ikea wardrobe, and im going to add the drawers from the same Its only an afternoon's work to build one if you have a wood cut-off saw (or use this as a good excuse to buy one)
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Apr 21, 2014 22:00
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InitialDave posted:Hmm, I don't recall getting a tool with the last clutch I bought, maybe it's not a common thing here? I have 2 1/2 extension bars that have insulation tape wrapped round them in the correct places and thicknesses to keep them snug. I have a saab one and a landrover one
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Apr 27, 2014 18:23
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InitialDave posted:Recommend me a 4.5" angle grinder. 240v mains powered, mainly automotive/metalwork, very occasional DIY use for cutting paving slabs and the like. Not wanting to spend money for the fun of it, but happy to cough up if justified. I currently have a clarke one and it has been by far my longest lasting 4.5" grinder so far. However either a bearing, shaft or mounting inside it is now on its way out and it vibrates uncomfortably when I use it and the switch is on its way out too - so I'm in the market for one too! What have you found so far? Have been very impressed with it. I have abused it, never looked after it, used it outside a lot and given it a lot of metalworking use on rusty vehicles and it has still lasted years. It was about the only power tool I own that wasn't stolen 2 years ago because I had left it outside on the drive under the landy after using it rather than putting it away and they thus missed it! I'm probably going to buy another clarke one unless there is a better suggestion.
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May 7, 2014 22:09
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On a slightly OT note - can you get any locking fasteners (in a locking wheelnut kind of style) or specialist fittings that fit onto a standard metric thread? I've got M16 threaded bar and M16 nuts holding my landy spare wheels on and M12 nuts holding stuff down in my garden and shed/garage. I'd quite like to make them a bit trickier to remove without just welding them on.
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May 7, 2014 22:17
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InitialDave posted:Yeah, I went for the Bosch one. I tried a Bosch one a few years ago wasn't impressed though I probably just got a faulty batch. Don't know what model number it was. It came from b&q where it was on offer. Died within an hour of first use, as did the replacement - so I took that one back and got a refund and had a cheap own brand one instead. Hope you have better luck!
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May 9, 2014 07:59
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kastein posted:Honestly I usually use my miter saw for PVC conduit and pipe, but I rarely have to cut any PVC over 2-3" diameter. A regular hand saw intended for wood will cut large diameter PVC just fine, then clean the ends up with a file if you care. I've cut a lot of PVC pipe this year (lots of 110mm soil pipe and 80mm guttering/downpipe) and always use my cheap compound mitre saw with its standard wood blade and a half round file to clean the swarf off afterwards. Works perfectly and you always get a proper straight cut (unlike doing it with a hand saw!)
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Jun 20, 2014 05:07
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I've got a dremel but I have hardly used it much because I've never had any decent bits for it. The dremel branded ones you see in the shops here are very expensive too. What tools/ends should I be buy for it to actually make it useful? and where can I buy them at sensible prices in the UK? I'd like to be able to cut/grind plastic (e.g car trim) and metal (I've got to enlarge some holes in my landrover dash and a dremel looks ideal if I had a sensible bit for the job).
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Jul 11, 2014 08:48
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spog posted:UK special offer from Halfords: That is a good deal. I already have a halfords set but have lost 3 sockets and am looking at £10 to replace them with decent ones. It's tempting to spend £50 on top of this and then keep a shitload of spares, or just stick 90% of it back on ebay as seperate spares! (which is how I've been filling my gaps as it is cheaper than buying seperates new!)
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Aug 11, 2014 09:43
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InitialDave posted:Somewhat annoying, just got myself a nice new Swiss army knife (Victorinox Workchamp), and barely have I opened the box, my MD points out to me that it's illegal to actually carry because the blade locks and is 4" long. I think you are worrying too much. Unless you are a twat or the policeman you happened to be dealing with was a twat I think you have a good reason for carrying it. Its just about context. If you have it in your pocket when you are walking round town or on a night out, or keep it by the front door at home or in the door pocket of you car then you should be done for it as you are an idiot. If it is in your pocket while you work (in a practical job that needs a knife) and then in the bottom of your bag along with the rest of your essential poo poo for the rest of the day its no problem. My penknife is a 3" lock knife. It lives in the bottom of my rucksack which I carry if I walk anywhere more than 5 minutes away from the car/home. My rucksack also has a headtorch and a small first aid kit along with my coat and a load of other I do a 2 mile each way rural walk to my favorite local pub once or twice a week and my rucksack comes with me (I need a coat and a torch on the way home!). The bag gets chucked in my car/landy when i leave the house and it might end up going to the shops with me if i'm walking or buying anything more than one item. I feel in this context I have a use for the knife and it should be there. When I was 15-20 I used to do loads of scouting and camp most weekends. I remember once walking through the city centre on a saturday afternoon carrying air rifles and various sharp, flammable and alcoholic items and getting chatted to by a passing bobby who said 'keep them in the bags, don't do anything stupid and enjoy your weekend' and left us to it.
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Aug 20, 2014 22:43
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I'm in the UK. What cordless impact wrenches can I buy that are any good and are not going to bankrupt me? I want one that will get the wheel nuts off my truck too (which usually takes me jumping on a 3 foot bar).
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Sep 9, 2014 20:32
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I need to get myself a decent 6ft bit of gas pipe... Cakefool posted:Either Clarke or Sealey do a 24v jobbie rated to 320-odd Nm that'll hurt if you're limp wristed and it catches you unawares. You can normally pick them up for about a ton with 2 batteries. Don't know if it'll do the landy though. cheers - will check them out! The IR version is probably outside my price range I weigh 88kg, and my current breaker bar is 70cm long. I had to jump on it to crack off all of the nuts on the wheel I took off tonight. If my maths is right that is about 600Nm? If I had an electric impact I might not leave it so long in between taking the wheels off, so 450Nm might do it... It pisses me off that all 4 of the centre hub caps on the landrover leak and consequentially all the hubs are disgusting and there are oil marks on the wheels and tyres. On the front wheels the swivel seals drip and there is oil on the inside of the wheel and the inner tyre wall. Despite this none of the oil has made it to either the wheel nuts which are rusted to the wheel or the inner ring of the drum where it is rusted to the hub..
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Sep 9, 2014 23:07
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My local halfords has a big stack of Gunson Colortune's in their sales bin for £1 each. However they are the 10mm one and I can't think of anything I have ever worked on that uses 10mm sparkplugs. Tempted to go back today and buy them just because £1 each..
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Oct 2, 2014 08:30
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CarForumPoster posted:http://www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting-crimping-tool-97420.html I already have one of those for insulated crimps, but I would also love a ratcheting crimper for the non insulated terminals like these:  Can you get them? My manual one is a bit of a pain as you have to use 2 different parts to do the 2 sections of the connector
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Oct 2, 2014 08:36
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I'm gonna pop in on my way to work tomorrow morning. Everything I own is 14mm I think.
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Oct 2, 2014 22:31
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stump posted:Cheers, that one looks like a decent buy at £20 more than the 135. Or you could get the 151EN which is £50 cheaper than the 151TE but seems to have the same specs. It is sold as a 'no-gas' model but will do gas you just need to buy a regulator and swap the polarity over and fit proper wire rather than fluxcore. Buy the 151EN then find a shop that will sell you a pub gas co2 bottle and regulator. I've had 2 151EN's now (my first one got stolen). Well impressed with it. It is better than the old snap-on/cebora one I had before! https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/mig151en-turbo-no-gas-mig-welder If you shop around you can possibly find it for less than machinemart sell it for too. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Oct 18, 2014 |
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Oct 18, 2014 17:39
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Extra posted:Neat I totally can't afford those. Sanding and wire wheeling loving sucks when the goggles fog up every 10 seconds. You could try one of the clear face shields? Never used one myself as I can still see enough close up without my glasses but they look like they should do the job
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Dec 23, 2014 21:40
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Elmnt80 posted:Ah. So I'm not using it without a drill press. Got it. You can use a honing tool on a handheld electric drill. Recommended by some people (and most manuals) to be done when you fit new piston rings to an engine.
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Jan 3, 2015 11:31
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