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ease posted:Have you ever done rear disc brakes? On most foreign cars (not sure about US) you need to push in and rotate at the same time because of the screw type e-brake mechanism. Oh, and make sure that once you've finished twisting it in that you leave it so the tab on the pad lines up into one of the notches. Also probably best to make sure you don't leave too much room so that it still lines up once you pump the brakes, and to check it's gone together properly when you're done. I say this because the mechanic who had done the last pad change clearly wasn't as careful - the tab ended up holding the pad at an angle, and I only found out a while later when I discovered a very unevenly (and prematurely) worn out set of pads, a disc all grinded up on the inside (the pad looked like it had a fair bit of meat left from the outside edge), and the reason why the handbrake never really worked that well. Fuzz1111 fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Sep 8, 2009 |
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Sep 8, 2009 05:26
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Uthor posted:I plan on getting a set like this when I need to do my brakes: I do see a couple of attachments that would probably work but I'd end up having more or less the same tool (used exactly the same way) as my scissor jack handle. Actually it'd probably worse as there would be less leverage and I sorta needed it for the initial twist on those ~16 year old brakes.
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Oct 2, 2009 03:36
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I'm looking to buy a breaker bar, and while comparing prices I stumbled across this thing advertised to "Multiply your turning torque by up to 8 times with a single hammer blow!". I figured they weren't suggesting smashing the plastic handle to pieces so I went searching for info about it worked, and eventually (after quite a bit of digging) I found that they are sold under various brands (including SP Tools) one of which had this helpful image explaining the operation: Has anyone ever used anything like this? Are they any good?
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Feb 4, 2014 05:29
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Galler posted:I have no experience with that particular one but my dad has had one of these types of manual impact drivers for ages and it does work. I would still get a separate breaker bar though. MRC48B posted:...I guess if you have room to swing the hammer, and have room in your toolbox for both that thing and the hammer, it's p. nifty. If the mechanism doesn't get in the way of using it as a regular breaker (including putting more than 400Nm through it the old fashioned cheater-pipe way) then I could see "hammer for torque boost" being a nice feature to have on occasion, but I'm guessing the mechanism probably does get in the way and/or make for a weaker tool in general. InitialDave posted:If possible, a breaker bar with the female side of the hinge joint on the socket side, and the male on the handle side, is slightly better - if it snaps, it's usually at the female side's ears, so cheaper to replace that way, but it's a fractional difference in terms of what you should buy.
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Feb 10, 2014 03:50
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eddiewalker posted:Pozidriv In the process of looking up those bit's I skimmed through wiki's list of screw drives. One thing I've never understood is companies trying to prevent product repair via obscure screw drive types, because I've never come across a single one that couldn't be defeated via a flathead, a crap driver with a similar (and soft) enough head to deform into the right shape when hammered into the screw, or worst case, a crap driver modified with a bench grinder and/or dremel.
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Feb 10, 2014 04:17
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melon cat posted:
melon cat posted:I want to remove the mirror in our bathroom. But it seems like the metal clips fastening it to the wall have seized up. [edit] If you can't bend them by hand, here's an option: 
Fuzz1111 fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Aug 18, 2014 |
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Aug 18, 2014 00:36
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