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stinch
Nov 21, 2013

EKDS5k posted:

Re: torque wrench storage:

Every manual I've ever seen, every sales rep, every article I can find online, everyone who works in a setting demanding high accuracy, says to store spring type torque wrenches at their lowest setting (or thereabouts) or risk them going out of calibration sooner. The only place I've seen that recommends storing them loaded is this thread, and I don't think any evidence to back up that recommendation has been produced.

http://www.norbar.com/en-gb/News-Events/Blog/entryid/396/torque-wrench-calibration

Very common on production lines to have wrenches for a particular task that are locked and calibrated to a certain value. It works fine and you don't need a calibration interval measured in days to keep things accurate.

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stinch
Nov 21, 2013

Uthor posted:

The motor on my mini quad copter broke and I'm going to try and fix it as practice. The thing is I need to desolder the old motor wires off a board that is about the size of a quarter.

A friend recommended I get a desoldering iron, but those seem to go for around $20 and the quad itself cost me $30, so it seems silly to spend so much to fix it.

I was perusing Amazon and saw "solder suckers" and desoldering wicks for under $5. That's much more reasonable for the use I'm going to get.

Any recommendation on what I actually want to buy and use?

No matter what you do get some flux. It's pretty much essential for working with lead free solder.

I prefer the desoldering wick / braid myself. Always be aware of how much heat you are putting into the part. It's easy to get everything too hot and lift the traces off the board. Sometimes it helps to add solder before you remove it as it helps heat up the whole joint so everything gets molten before being sucked up. Also if you are trying to clear out a hole you can push a component lead all the way through it and it will clear it. Lots of people keep the clipped off ends of resistors and so on for exactly that purpose.

Another method is to heat up the joint then whack the board against something. The board will stop suddenly but the molten solder will not and fly out. A much loved method on production lines as it's quick but obviously can break things.

stinch fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Dec 28, 2014

stinch
Nov 21, 2013
Halfords also have 50% off quite a few other items. Including their socket sets. Their sockets are pretty decent so at 50% their socket sets should be a pretty good buy.

Worth keeping the receipts if you want to warranty stuff. Especially with screwdrivers. I've got several screwdrivers from Halfords over the years, all different designs and the branding has worn off. Lifetime warranties are a bit crap if there is no way for the staff to tell who sold the tool in the first place.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013

PBCrunch posted:

Fluke meters give goofball results when the battery is low. The phenomena is not unique too cheap meters.

Never had that problem with good quality meters. They all have battery change or status indicators and will give good results at least until the point they tell you to replace the battery,

stinch
Nov 21, 2013

OSU_Matthew posted:

One particularly interesting point was that a lot of factories will produce things essentially at cost for contries with strong intellectual property protections (eg US, Germany, etc) so they can learn how to make things, steal the designs, and run extra on the production to sell at an upcharge to developing economies since none of them are any good at design or creativity beyond copying. This is why dollar store stuff in the US will cost 2-3$ in Brazil and the rest of the developing world.

I think that's just a consequence of the Chinese government's policy of growth at all costs. They will run factories on basically no profit margin just for the sake of running a factory.

That screws everything up because the profit from the factory is pretty important. In China you just have a bunch of factories trying to make something as cheap as possible instead of trying to make as much profit as possible.

stinch fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Aug 31, 2015

stinch
Nov 21, 2013
One of the pivots should have an adjustment on it so you can alter how far the jaws close before the ratchet will release. I've had good luck with cheap crimpers but they are generic tools from China so don't expect too much.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013

EightBit posted:

I have a few friends and family in the aviation maintenance industry, all mechanics. The shop owns all of the torque wrenches every one of them uses at work, and keeps them calibrated. You'll have to excuse me if I think it sounds a bit weird if an aviation mechanic is trying to get their own torque wrench for working on aircraft.

Yeah it sounds weird.

A calibration only tells you how the torque wrench is performing at time of calibration. The wrench could potentially go wrong right after calibration causing every subsequent fastener to be torqued incorrectly. This would not be picked up until the calibration interval expires and the wrench fails calibration. At which point you have to evaluate the failure and evaluate the risk for every single use of the tool since its last passed calibration. Just how big of a pain in the arse that is combined with what you know about how the tool behaves is how you determine you calibration process and intervals.

So kinda odd they let employees bring in their own tools that require calibration. Since if any employee disappears one day with his wrench how are you going to calibrate it?

stinch
Nov 21, 2013
I think i'd say Wiha tend towards traditional designs with no surprises while Wera are more adventurous but don't always get it right. At this sort of price range it's really just preference, you shouldn't have quality problems with either.

Personally I prefer Wera for regular drivers and Wiha for precision drivers. I just don't get on with the bulge in the Were precision drivers.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013

rdb posted:

Came here to post about the wera deals. I decided to give the screwdrivers with yellow handles a try for $35. Since I tend to use them as chisels anyways it would be nice to have a set sorta made for it.

I have a big flathead and it's great, never used it to turn a screw so not sure I'd bother with a set.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013

sharkytm posted:

I'm gonna guess that it was hard wood, and you clogged the hole saw with sawdust. Every tooth depth you drill, you need to clean out the dust.

if you still a few smaller holes around the circumference the sawdust can get out and the hole saw will go through quickly in one go.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013
I have one of those bench grinders with a belt on one side at work. It's fine for work you would do on the grinding wheel but where the curve of the wheel is an issue. The main issues are that the belts don't have a lot of surface area so wear out quick and that there is no proper platform so you have to free hand everything.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013

Frank Dillinger posted:

It needs to maintain 14v on a car battery while control modules are being programmed, which means ignition on, lights on, for up to an hour and a half. During this time, battery voltage may not drop below 13v. I have a 25A charger, and that will get me ~12.5v or so.

There seems to be a large gap between consumer (5-25A) chargers and pro/shop level chargers. Consumer chargers also have a habit of not actually outputting the rates power, or deciding the battery is full and switching off.

Lead acid battery charge current should be between 10 and 30 percent of the battery capacity. So a 25A charge would be suitable for a 85Ah or above capacity battery. A larger size battery for a diesel is ~70Ah while a smaller battery for a petrol car ~45Ah.

So for a car battery charger 25A is already pushing it and probably a lot of the claimed 25A chargers actually have a lower limit in the real world.

Looks like there are a lot of ham radio related power supplies that run at 13.8V and can supply lots of current and are not too expensive, perhaps an option.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013
https://www.amazon.com/HAUTMEC-Telescoping-Capacity-Telescopic-10-inch/dp/B072QD5D3F/

I'd recommend a telescoping tap wrench as the adjustable length helps get the handle where you can turn it without hitting anything.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013

MRC48B posted:

I would love to hear the marketing justification for that one.

Y'know what will connect us with potential customers? Hot air balloons

those balloon festivals are all over the place and the unconventional shapes get all the attention. it probably works out pretty well when you consider the cost against the number of people that see the balloon.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013
I have one of those cheap evolution saws. no issue with the blade but it's a carbide tipped saw used for metal cutting so obviously you need to be pretty gentle with it. It cuts fast but is very loud.

For a bit under twice the price you can get a reasonable bandsaw which might be the more practical option. I kind of regret not doing that because a horizontal bandsaw that can also be used vertically is more versatile and the slower cutting speed isn't much of an issue for occasional use.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013
https://www.bahco.com/int_en/4-in-1-ratcheting-ring-wrench-set---3-pcs-pouch-pb_s4rm-_.html

for ratcheting i like these that have 4 sizes on each wrench since you can cover 12 sizes with 3 wrenches. I've never really found the need to have ratcheting spanners in larger sizes.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013

Krakkles posted:

I'm not 100% certain what these are, but those sound like perks I'd be in to.

with modern irons the exchangeable tip contains the heating element and temperature sensor. they react a lot faster and regulate temperature better as well as being more compact.

Weller for whatever reason still have separate tips that slide over the element that's fixed in the hand piece. a lot better than an unregulated iron but they really can't compete with the element in cartridge designs.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013

bobbilljim posted:

Most countries have a switch on the receptacle too which would come in handy in this case

probably not in this case because I'd assume a hair trimmer is all plastic and does not have an earth. gfci will trip if the current imbalance between live and neutral is too high. since the device has no earth and is plastic there is really no way for current to pass in or out of the device except through the live or neutral wires. so probably whatever is supposed to deal with back emf has failed and when the switch disconnects the live current gets dumped down the neutral creating a big enough imbalance to cause a trip.

a switch on the outlet isn't going to help unless it's duel pole and switches both live and neutral at the same time. essentially this is what yanking the cord out of the socket is doing.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013
quote not edit

stinch
Nov 21, 2013
never knew they did a miniature set of their water pump pliers.

https://www.knipex.com/cobra-xs

knipex is a bit spendy for around the house tools though.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013
if I had to move it a lot I would just go for a long focal length with a standard base. there would still be a power cord for the lights. if that was a problem I'm sure some battery powered light could be adapted to it.

I use eyepiece magnifiers quite a lot but you eye needs to be close to the subject which isn't always practical for frequent use.

stinch fucked around with this message at 10:09 on Jan 5, 2022

stinch
Nov 21, 2013
in the past I've drilled holes in the rubber and hacked the centre of the bushing out. then cut and remove the outer shell. I guess you don't really need to remove the inner, just create enough space for a blade to cut the outer shell.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013
a tap wrench helps to avoid putting sideways forces through the tap. so the tap won't break so easily but will also cut a rounder more accurate hole.

stinch
Nov 21, 2013

MRC48B posted:

I always wondered if you could do field acr or plumbing pipe brazing with one of those induction bolt heaters, and if its more convenient and oxidizes copper less than a torch

back in the day I worked somewhere that was trying to use induction for soldering. it didn't really work because the heating was very localised. often the molten solder would just run out of the joints because the rest of the material was still cold.

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stinch
Nov 21, 2013
I like the ones that can fit two sizes on each end of the wrench.

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